Pohnpei Eco-Adventure Guide

Dream Inside, Step Outside

Author: pni-surfclub

Pahn Sile Waterfall

BikingHiking / TrekkingArchaeological Site / RuinWaterfallBird-WatchingCampingSwimmingPicnicking

Senipehn River pool, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Located on the pristine Senipehn River, Pahn Sile is one of the few waterfalls well into the interior that almost anyone (even small children) can reach without the help of a guide — as long as you keep your eyes open for the branches in the path. A well-maintained trail begins at the end of the unpaved but well-graded coral and gravel road beyond Sapwalap Elementary School and opposite a concrete taxi stop. Houses are found along the path for much of the way, as well as historic rock-lined irrigation canals built by the Japanese. About 0.15 km (164 yd) before reaching the waterfall, a secondary path branches right and descends to a shallow point in the river, where you’ll cross and hug the right bank or walk in the stream as you continue to the falls just around the corner.

Pahn Sile Waterfall, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Pahn Sile‘s pool is wide and wonderfully cool, but not especially deep. The falls varies in volume depending on recent rain, gushing through a narrow portal and crashing onto rocks that form the rim of the pool. If you want a view from above the falls, bear left at the branch, proceed for 0.3 km (0.18 mi), and then cut off the trail and head straight toward the sound of the river. There is no path for this last part, but it’s easy enough to move through the forest. There are nice spots for a camp site above the falls in the forest along the path (pack out everything you packed in). In addition to the primary waterfall pool, there’s a small, deep pool just down river that is also an excellent place to swim, shaded by lush ferns and massive trees.

There are no access fees and no permission is needed to visit the falls.

If you would like a guide for the trip to the waterfall contact Raven at (+691)923-1862, he does not charge a fee but we do encourage you to tip him for his time.

  • Plan for 3 hours round-trip for this excursion.

Map Guides >> Central Madolenihmw >> Pahn Sile Waterfall

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Paddling Lenger & Sapwtik

SwimmingSnorkelingKayaking / CanoeingMarine Reserve

As the closest lagoon islands to Kolonia and with the highest concentration of WWII historical sites anywhere around Pohnpei, Lenger and nearby Sapwtik make fantastic destinations for paddling enthusiasts. In addition to the attractions on each of the two islands, there are mangrove forests and some interesting reef environments to explore.

Around Lenger

Pahnaiau Getaway (Barbosa’s Wharf) to the Seaplane Ramp

This portion of the route is characterized by Lenger’s shallow fringe reef, a sandy, silty expanse dominated by small-scale coral growth, brilliant blue starfish, cowries, sea cucumbers of various types, and scattered beds of seagrass, which Pohnpeian’s call oaloahd. Keep an eye out for the main attraction: stingrays. They generally rest on the bottom in the sand and will shoot off when you approach. Not far beyond the wharf is the Jaluit Cistern, one of the oldest historical sites in Pohnpei State. The cistern was probably constructed in the late 1880s by German traders operating on the coast. A stone wharf originally connected it with the coast, but a few scattered stones are all that are left. Bullet holes in the masonry were caused by Allied strafing during WWII.

If you decide to make a wider arc around the island, you’ll pass over areas where the reef shelf ends and the deep part of the lagoon begins. Small sea turtles are seen on rare occasions near the reef wall. The majority of the reef fish will also be found at this natural boundary. Note, however, that the reef stretches all the way to Sapwtik in the northwest and there is no way around Lenger’s northern end without crossing it. The depth over the shelf varies from a few centimeters to a meter, depending on the time of day and the precise location. Because fragile corals and other organisms are harmed by feet or dragging keels, the northern passage should be attempted at high tide only.

The Seaplane Ramp to the Mangrove Passage

The reef on the eastern side of the island tends to be deeper than in the northwest and has denser beds of seagrass. Larger fish are found in this area, and sometimes juvenile black-tip reef sharks can be seen swishing their way around.

The Mangrove Passage to Barbosa’s Wharf

The tunnel-like mangrove passage winds about a third of a kilometer through a dense section of forest that mostly comprises members of the Rhizophora genus, identified by the arching prop roots that extend out of the water toward the tree trunks. It’s a nice, scenic paddle and a good place to spot shorebirds like the Pacific Reef Heron and Micronesian Kingfisher. Once out of the forest, you can follow the coastline past the ruins of the Japanese-era Kohatsu Wharf and back to Barbosa’s Wharf.

Around Sapwtik

A relatively well-preserved Japanese wharf extends southwest from Sapwtik’s coast all the way to the edge of the reef. This is a wonderful place for a picnic and swim or snorkel. There’s one large tree on the wharf, offering shade. To the west is a maze of mangrove clumps that are fun to paddle through (though they are not as extensive as Lenger’s) before reaching the western terminus of the island. North of the point is an exposed rocky place that’s a perfect pull-out spot for a snack. A little beyond that is the site of the coastal battery and nearby munitions magazine. Conditions north of Sapwtik’s coastline are very similar to Lenger’s northern sector — shallow and characterized by seagrass beds and silt. You shouldn’t try to kayak here except at mid to high tides. All along the coast, you’ll find evidence of Japanese occupation, low walls, foxholes, rifle pits, etc.

Starting   Ending Distance (km) Distance (mi)
St. Peter’s Church, Sokehs —- Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger 7.93 km 4.93 mi
Misko Beach, Dekehtik Island —- Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger 4.52 km 2.8 mi
Ice Dock, Kolonia Town —- Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger 3.53 km 2.2 mi
Nett Point, Nett —- Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger 1.97 km 1.22 mi
St. Peter’s Church, Sokehs —- Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik 7.75 km 4.81 mi
Misko Beach, Dekehtik Island —- Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik 4.34 km 2.7 mi
Ice Dock, Kolonia Town —- Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik 4.23 km 2.63 mi
Nett Point, Nett —- Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik 2.95 km 1.83 mi
Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger —- Japanese Seaplane Ramp, Lenger* 1.52 km 0.95 mi
Japanese Seaplane Ramp, Lenger —- Mangrove Passage Northern Entrance, Lenger 0.58 km 0.36 mi
Mangrove Passage Northern Entrance, Lenger —- Kohatsu Wharf, Lenger 0.42 km 0.26 mi
Kohatsu Wharf, Lenger —- Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger 0.51 km 0.32 mi
Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger —- Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik 1.29 km 0.8 mi
Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik —- Gun Battery, Sapwtik 0.74 km 0.46 mi

*Shallow reef shelf. This segment is only passable at middle to high tides.

Map Guides >> Lenger & Sapwtik Islands >> Paddling Around Lenger & Sapwtik

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in birding, hiking & trekking, historical sites, islands, lenger & sapwtik islands, paddling, snorkeling, swimming & picnicking, world war sitesTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Penieu Island

Penieu is a gorgeous reef island in the southeast next to Kepidauen Ne (pass). The island is a major rookery for a colony of noddies and other seabirds, which fill the air with raucous clamor as they swoop around the trees. The primary nesting spot is within a strip of mangroves at the north end of the island (which we’ve dubbed “Noddy City”) and should be given a wide berth to avoid disturbing the habitat of the birds. The island also has a strange, curving sandbar around the north that forms a kind of protected, shallow lagoon with a sandy bottom. This is an excellent place for wading, swimming and playing if you have your kids along, but keep an eye out for stingrays. There are also sandy beaches and good swimming and snorkeling on the west coasts. A pearl farming operation was in progress in the shallow lagoon areas nearby, and a few ramshackle huts were been built on the beach for that purpose (unfortunately, they’re untidy and don’t add much to the scenery). Currents can be quite strong around the eastern side of the island.

  • Camping is possible on Penieu, which is owned by the Nahnmwarki of Kitti. Unfortunately, it’s difficult to get him or a family representative on the phone. If you’re interested in visiting, contact the Kitti Municipal Government Office at +691.320.5038, 320.5808, 320.5049, or 320.3257 and ask for assistance.

“Emerged Last-Interglacial coral reef adjoining Penieu Island, off the south coast of high volcanic Pohnpei Island (background). Inset shows fossil coral in its growth position, demonstrating that this exposure is in situ (Photos: Patrick Nunn).” Click here to read “O cei na Vulavula? Insights and Regrets of a Foreign Geoscientist in the Pacific Islands”.

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Penieu Island

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Takaieu & Dehpehk Islands

Takaieu and Dehpehk are two large volcanic islands connected by a bridge and linked to the coast of U by a causeway. Most of the local residents live around the eastern and northern coasts of Takaieu and the western coast of Dehpehk and commute to and from Pohnpei by boat. The islands are fun to explore if you want to get a glimpse of old-style Pohnpeian life sans roads and electricity. A seaward turn just before the Madolenihmw border brings one to the unpaved causeway. A well-maintained footpath runs east around Takaieu, crosses the Dehpehk-Takaieu Bridge, continues on the west coast of Dehpehk, and then wraps around the eastern coast, where it connects with another trail going over the interior hill. The marine areas along the eastern coast belong to the Dehpehk Marine Protected Area (MPA). No permission is needed to visit either island, but do be respectful and stay on the main paths around the inhabited areas.

Stone pathway on Takaieu Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Takaieu Island

Takaieu figures into a well-known local myth about two magical brothers. The island is said to have been created when these brothers dragged a large rock all the way from Yap — hence the name, which means “one rock.” The causeway road ends not far along the south coast and is replaced by a tidy rock footpath (vehicles can be parked on the side of the road near the trailhead). From there, the path bends around the mangrove-fringed eastern coastline, passing neatly maintained farmsteads here and there. Mwelling marks the spot of one of the megalithic structures built by Olsihpa and Olsohpa before they founded Nan Madol. The site is impressive, but is easier to reach by boat than from land. About halfway across the north side of the island, the path turns and connects with Dehpehk via a small concrete footbridge.

The Origin of Takaieu Island

There was once a woman in Salapwuk named Lienlama who had two sons named Mwohnmur and Sarapwau. The boys were quite mischievous and had many adventures that figure into Pohnpeian myth. In one story, the brothers went to the islands of Yap and used a magic spell to make a stone fly from that place to Pohnpei. They flew the stone to Wenik (modern-day U) and set it down in the lagoon, naming it Takaieu (“one stone”). They had brought some southern yams with them and they cooked these up, but threw the parts that were underdone into the forests of Alohkapw and Edienleng. And so they southern yam was first propagated in those places.

Dehpehk Island

Dehpehk is long and skinny with a low ridge running along its length. Like Takaieu, it forms its own sub-division, or kousapw, The trail on the west coast is narrow, but heavily used as there are many residences on this side. Once you’ve reached the northern extreme of Dehpehk, however, there’s little reason to go further as the trail gets steadily harder to follow where many of the houses have been abandoned. If you do want to continue, you’ll end up at a homestead with a large piggery. Here the path turns west and climbs over the central hill, reconnecting with the western coastal trail. There’s a nice elevated view from a point just below Dolen Dehpehk (100 m).

  • Plan for 7-8 hours for this hike.
  • To obtain a guide who can show you around both islands contact Pohnpei Surf Club as one of their boat drivers / dive masters is from the area and can provide assistance with exploring the islands.

 

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Takaieu & Dehpehk Islands

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Sapwtik Island

Sapwtik, which means “small land,” is a tiny volcanic island located directly north of Kolonia and 0.5 km northwest of Lenger. Seen in profile, the island resembles a large submarine, leading some locals to nickname it “Submarine Island.” Sapwtik is jointly-owned by the Eschiet family, which has some small houses at the eastern end of island, and their in-laws, the Adams family. During the 1880s, Sapwtik was purchased by Jan Stanisław Kubary, a Polish naturalist and ethnographer, along with a large piece of land east of what is now Kolonia — a place called Mpwoampw. In 1896, after returning from an extended absence and finding his homestead in ruins and his claims on the properties questioned by the Spanish authorities, Kubary committed suicide. Mpwoampw and Sapwtik were then purchased by Dominique Escheit, a Belgian trader who had operated in the Marshall Islands before coming to Pohnpei. Between 1914 and 1945, the Japanese were in charge and a great deal of land was seized by the military for defensive purposes — including Sapwtik. Like its neighbor, Lenger, Sapwtik was fortified in the late 1930s in preparation for an Allied invasion that never came. The primary features are found on the low hilltop and at the western terminus.

Sapwtik Island Attractions

Japanese Wharf

Visitors to Sapwtik will want to make their first stop at the Japanese Wharf, a 296 meter-long (324 yd) basalt structure that juts out from the island’s southwest coast all the way to the edge of the reef. With the exception of the very end, which has sustained some damage from waves, the wharf is in excellent condition almost 80 years after it was built — a testament to the quality of Japanese construction during the colonial period (and the use of the highly stable tanizumi, or herringbone, style of stonework). The wharf connects with the coastal road, also built by the Japanese, which skirts the mangroves from one end of the island to the other. The road is built above a stone retaining wall that stabilizes it against the swampy mangrove environment. Retaining walls also run along the opposite edge to prevent erosion from the steep hillside above.

Snorkeling & Swimming

All the ocean areas around Sapwtik belong to the Sapwtik Marine Protected Area, a sanctuary protected by legislation. The snorkeling off the reef walls at the end of the wharf is quite nice with generally good visibility and lots of fish. Just start at the wharf and follow the reef wall in either direction (the further from the island, the better it gets). The best place to swim is also right off the end of the wharf. Shallow areas on either sides of the wharf are silty.

A large banyan tree forms the flag of the submarine at Sapwtik Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Command Center & Barracks

The central hill is most easily accessed from the maintained Japanese coastal road. About 60 meters east of the wharf, hikers can cut off the road and up the slope (another 60 m) to reach the summit. The Adam’s family keeps the hill extremely tidy, cutting the grass, planting flowers, and keeping the historical features free of vines and brush. The place has a manicured, park-like feel and a stunning view of everything to the south. One of the best preserved yabane-tanizumi style rock walls on Pohnpei runs the length of the hilltop on the south side with two breaks, where earthen ramps lead up to the top. Two foundations were likely a command center and a barracks for personnel stationed on the island. The northern foundation is the largest and has seven sets of steps leading up to where the floor once was. The structure itself would have been wooden, while only the support posts and the lower parts of the walls were concrete. Two large concrete cisterns are connected to the two foundations (check out the bullet holes from Allied strafing). At the north end of the complex, the hill road begins, cutting right through the hill and running all the way to the gun batteries at the northwestern end of the island. Some of the road is currently impassable due to piles of felled trees and branches, but it’s impressive none the less.

To visit the gun batteries, it’s best to return to the coastal road and hike northwest all the way to the end. The road is well-kept and easy to follow.

Magazine Complex / Shell Storage

From the cut-off point for the hilltop, it’s about 150 m (164 yd) along the road to the first point of interest, a high-walled magazine complex for heavy ordnance similar to the one at the coastal gun battery on Lenger. The surrounding basalt rock wall (also tanizumi style) runs north and then curves sharply back to the south to enclose the foundation of the magazine structure, which is about 6 meters long. On the inside of the enclosure, the walls are steeply sloped. There is no roof, but the entire feature may have been covered with canvas and camouflaged during war-time. The entrance is narrow — less than 2 meters wide — and curved.

Coastal Gun Battery

About 12 meters northwest of the magazine is the first of four 75 mm field gun stations. These are similar to the structures on Lenger, though the Sapwtik sites are more primitive with less concrete and more earthen features. No guns remain, and two of the sites may have been decoys that never had guns installed. Guns would have protected the primary entrance to Kolonia at Pweitik Passage (Kepidauen Pweitik) to the northwest. A footpath continues north past the gun emplacements and then turns southeast to follow the contour of the hill. Along this are a few stone rifle pits or machine gun emplacements. Old Japanese beer bottles litter the forest.

NOTE: The ruins of a searchlight and a tunnel, cutting completely through part of the central hill, also exist on Sapwtik, but we did not have the opportunity to locate them during our brief period of fieldwork on the island. If you’re interested in seeing these features, contact Richie Adams at (+691.320.5735). The Pacific Wrecks website has photos of both.
  • To obtain permission to visit, call Richie Adams (Adam’s Brothers Corporation) at +691.320.5735 or call Ace Hardware’s office at +691.320.2723.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The Sapwtik Island information would not exist without the cooperation of the Adams family.

Eco-Adventure Map Guides >> Lenger Island >> Sapwtik Island Attractions

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Nahpali Island

Hiking / TrekkingWorld War II FortificationsArchaeological Site / RuinBird-WatchingCampingSwimmingSnorkelingSCUBA divingKayaking / CanoeingSurfingPicnickingBeachesMarine Reserve

Nahpali is a long, narrow reef island running roughly northeast-southwest and located northeast of Temwen Island in Madolenihmw Municipality. The island is privately owned by the Senda family and has remained largely undeveloped. In 1836, a war that erupted between the crew of a visiting British whaleship, the Nahnmwarki (paramount chief of Madolenihmw), and a rival chief (the Wasai), spilled over onto the island. After the whaleship ran aground, its cargo was transferred to Nahpali, where it was later stolen by the brother of the Nahnmwarki, called Nahnawa. The whalers and Nahnawa’s men fought on the island, where Nahnawa temporarily got the upper hand and killed the captain of the ship and three others. Eventually however, with the help of the Wasai, who was based on Na Island and coveted the Nahnmwarki title, the whalers overcame the Nahnmwarki and his brother and murdered them. During the 1930s, Nahpali was occupied by the Japanese military, which operated a gun battery and searchlight station near the northern end. Today, the island is forested and scattered with the remains of the gun stations and other Japanese structures, including water storage tanks and steps that once led up to an elevated wooden barracks (now long gone). All of the suitable camping areas lie on the western and northern coasts and the swimming and snorkeling is all along the reef wall west of the island, while the eastern side descends into impassable mangrove swamps.

Attractions

110 cm Searchlight

As part of their fortification of Nahpali, the Japanese mounted a 110 cm searchlight at the northeast end of the island, closest to the channel opening. They probably intended to use the light to spot enemy ships attempting to pass inside the reef, but it seems unlikely that they ever got to use it in battle. The May Day bombardment of Pohnpei by American warships focused primarily on the targets of highest import — Kolonia Town, Sokehs Mountain, and Lenger Island — and it’s doubtful that American vessels were anywhere near Nahpali. Allied bombers, however, may have played a part in the destruction of this piece of hardware. The searchlight drum now rests in the sandy shoals north of the concrete platform where it was originally installed. The platform is broken into several pieces, but it’s not clear whether the damage was caused by a bomb blast or just the action of tides, waves, and erosion over nearly 70 years. Other bits of the light are scattered around in the water nearby.

8 cm Gun Stations

Duane Denfeld’s 1979 archaeological overview of Pohnpei’s historical sites indicates four 8 cm gun stations on Nahpali (based on American intelligence gathered through aerial photography rather than an actual visit to the island). During our quick survey of Nahpali, we were only able to locate three of the stations and one of them was severely deteriorated. No guns remain, but the concrete defensive structures are still there — albeit very overgrown.

Other Japanese Structures

Most of the other structures found on the island are clustered around the west side. There’s a series of foundations that might have belonged to a barracks, several hulking cisterns of various types, and a diesel engine.

The Gateway Tree at Nahpali Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

“Gateway Tree”

On the shore just south of the last Japanese structure is a huge tree shaped like an arched gateway. A portion of the tree seems to have bent over and made contact with the ground, where it put down more roots, forming an amazing piece of natural architecture.

Sandy Beaches

Beautiful stretches of fine copper sand are found on Nahpali’s northwestern and northern coasts. The beaches, however, do not extend all the way out to deep water, giving way instead to shoals of coral rubble and seagrass. The best beach is found where the coastline turns to the east near a pile of concrete slabs that might have been part of a wharf or coastal pillbox. Other ruined structures are scattered along the shore below the high-tide level. There is another smaller beach on the western coast at the southern end of the island.

Surfing

One of two surfable reef-breaks in the area lies on the edge of Kepidauen Deleur, northwest of Nahpali. Visit our surfing page for more details.

  • To obtain permission for overnight stays, call McKenzie Senda at +691.320.8682 / 7147 / 4062.

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Nahpali Island

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Na Island

Stingray near Na Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
Na appears to be the largest island in Madolenihmw after Temwen, although it mostly consists of mangrove forests. In the mid-1830s, Na was home to a renegade Pohnpeian chief — the Wasai — who joined a group of foreign whalers in a fight against the Nahnmwarki of Madolenihmw and his brother, Nahnawa. The violent conflict ended with the murders of the Nahnmwarki and Nahnawa at the hands of the whalers, and the Wasai became the new Nahnmwarki (beginning a long cycle of violent power struggles in the district).

Currently Na is uninhabited. Though seagrass beds characterize the areas further out, there’s a beautiful swath of shallow, crystal clear water between them and the northern coastline. The bottom is sandy and a fantastic place to observe resident stingrays. The island itself is little more than a long, curving sandbar that has collected trees over its lifetime — mostly coconut palms. All the potential camp sites are on the northern coast as well as the beaches and best swimming. Snorkeling spots include Namwen Na Stingray Sanctuary to the north and the reef walls at the eastern edge of Pahn Nahkapw south of the island. The closest SCUBA diving is located on the reef wall around the eastern end of the island (boat access from outside the reef only). Divers usually begin there and drift on an in-coming tide along the wall as it curves west. Due to exposure to the prevailing winds, which cause heavy seas, the site is only an option during the middle of summer. 

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Na Island

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Mall Island

Mall is located just to the south of Nahnningi, and though it looks larger, about half of the island’s area is mangroves. The most interesting feature on Mall (also known as ‘Small Island’) is a prehistoric stone tomb located at the north end. According to oral history, the island was home to two brothers named Semen Pwei Tikitik and Semen Pwei Lapalap. Dissatisfied with the greed of the reigning Saudeleur, the brothers left Pohnpei and sailed for another land. Only the younger of the two survived the journey. Eventually, Semen Pwei Tikitik returned, armed with the knowledge he’d gathered during his travels. He went to Nan Madol and shared what he’d learned about the more egalitarian culture he’d visited. The Saudeleur, however, refused to see reason, so Semen Pwei Tikitik killed him. Unfortunately, the assassination did not end the dynasty and the dead Sau was soon replace by a new leader.

  • To obtain permission to visit, call William Hawley — the Rosa — at +691.320.2111 / 5050. Or contact the family run business, LP Gas, and inquire about visiting the island +691.320.5661 / 2675

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Mall Island

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What to Bring

Cash Cash and Visa ATM Card

Though credit cards have gained a foot-hold with most local hotels, the major stores (Ace Commercial, Ace Hardware, Ace Office Supply, A-One Supermart and Palm Terrace) and some restaurants, everywhere else cash reigns supreme. Personal checks are rarely accepted. Bank of Guam operates two ATMs in Kolonia that will work (theoretically) with any card inscribed with the Visa logo; both are at the bank branch east of town just past the American Embassy. Bank of FSM also has an ATM located right outside of the bank.

Synthetic or Cotton T-shirt Synthetic or Cotton T-shirts

With daily temperatures ranging between 27 and 32 degrees Celsius (80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit) and humidity levels upwards of 90%, you’ll want to stick to light clothing on Pohnpei, especially when doing strenuous activities. Cotton is the coolest, but some of the light synthetic materials dry much faster.

Synthetic or Cotton Shorts Synthetic or Cotton Shorts

Same goes for bottom-wear. Keep it light and loose. Shorts are the best choice for hikes on well-established trails without much surrounding underbrush to tear up your legs.

Synthetic Pants Synthetic Pants

For any hike not on a high-traffic trail, pants are the best choice for bottom-wear. Bushes, grass, and some very stickery ferns often grow close or partially over a route. If you wear shorts, you’ll be all scratched up in no time. Synthetic materials are best for pants because they stay light when wet, while cotton gets heavy and doesn’t dry in humidity. Make sure they aren’t too tight to give you plenty of room to move and also not so loose that they bag up when wet.

Synthetic or Cotton ShortsBikini Swim-wear

A long history with Puritanical missionaries has made Micronesia a conservative place when it comes to dress — though this is changing slowly (in thanks, partly, to the public pool and Olympic swimming program). Average middle-aged or older residents are still seen swimming fully-clothed. When swimming around Pohnpei’s coastline or in other areas that locals also frequent, dress modestly to avoid offending people. Regular swim shorts or board-shorts are fine for men and women. Women should wear a t-shirt or rash-guard over bikini tops. Bikinis worn openly in public places will attract unwanted attention, but they’re fine at isolated lagoon islands, out on a boat, and on the uninhabited parts of Ahnd and Pakin atolls. Men in Speedo-type swimwear will draw plenty of incredulous stares, though you do see Chinese fishermen swimming in them in public places.

Sunglasses Sunglasses

The sunglasses sold on-island are the cheap and mostly useless kind. Bring your own to combat those intense UV rays and save your eyes some wear and tear.

High SPF Sunscreen High SPF Sunscreen

Six degrees north of the equator, the sun is absolutely brutal. It doesn’t matter who you are — everyone burns here, even Pohnpeians. Wearing high-rated sunscreen whenever you’re outside is essential. It should be reapplied often, especially if you’re in and out of the water or sweating heavily. Sunscreen is sold on Pohnpei (try Ace Office Supply or Yoshie Enterprises), but it’s probably cheaper to bring some from home. If your skin is fair, you should be using SPF 50 or higher, reapplying often, and staying covered up as much as possible. Be aware that you can get sunburned just as badly on overcast days as in sunny weather. Wear a shirt when snorkeling.

Hat / Head Protection Hat / Head Protection

Unless you’re going to be under heavy tree cover all day, bring something solid to keep that noggin from boiling.

Flip-Flops or Thongs Flip-Flops or Thongs

Flip-flops, thongs, rubber sandals, or as Pohnpeians usually call them — sohri (a loan word from the Japanese zori) — are standard foot-wear on the island. You can bring your own, but they’re also sold at nearly every major store on the island.

Tennis Shoes / Light Hiking Shoes Tennis Shoes or Light Hiking Shoes

Around town, flip-flops, slippers, or sohri are optimal, but when you’re hiking on Pohnpei, you’ll need something that stays on your feet and holds up to abuse. Tennis shoes or well-ventilated light cloth hiking shoes are a good choice for short hikes on well-maintained trails. They’re absolutely terrible, however, if there’s mud, water, or slippery rocks — which is a good share of the time. Expect your shoes to get really, really dirty.

Five-Finger Shoes “Five-Finger” Shoes

After years of hiking on Pohnpei, we’ve concluded that nothing beats FiveFingers. Nothing. Thinner soles allow you to feel the terrain and cling to it better than with tennis shoes or hiking boots. The use of your toes improves balance and makes slips much less frequent on rocks. They stay on your feet in and out of water and mud and work just as well on hard, dry ground. You’re less likely to get blisters than with traditional shoes. There are a million reasons to use them here. A variety of models are available. We recommend the pioneering brand, Vibram. You’ll want to break them in at home before your trip. They take a little getting used to and your feet will have to toughen up a bit.

Dry-Bag or Dry-Backpack Dry-Bag or Dry-Backpack

Imagine 7.5 meters (25 feet) of water falling over the course of a single year! Pohnpei is an extremely rainy place, and everywhere you go, you should be prepared for the very real possibility that you’re going to get rained on. Luckily, there are many dry-bag and dry-pack models on the market these days that will keep all your important stuff completely dry in torrential down-pours, on boats, and when you’re paddling around. If you plan to do any hiking, boating, or paddling, a roll-top style dry backpack is a must-have. Heavy-duty Ziploc bags work great for small items inside your dry-pack as there are rarely any inside pockets or divisions. If hiking is what you’ll be doing most and you don’t want to invest in a dry-pack, you can use a heavy-duty plastic trash compactor bag as a liner inside your conventional backpack.

Mobile Phone Mobile Phone

Pohnpei has surprisingly good cellular coverage across the island. You can even use your phones on the top of some mountains and at most of the islands in the lagoon. For the sake of emergency, it’s a good idea to carry a phone with a local SIM card and some credit at all times. CDMA phones don’t work in Micronesia, but pretty much anything that’s unlocked and can take a GSM SIM card will. SIM cards and phone credit can be purchased at the FSM Telecommunications HQ in the middle of town.

First Aid Kit First Aid Kit

This should be a no-brainer. Accidents happen, and with slippery rocks, rough terrain, pointy tree branches, and razor-sharp coral, for most people it’s just a matter of time. Carry a good kit and know how to use it. It could save your life.

Pocket Knife Pocket Knife

If you go anywhere with a local guide, he’ll bring at least three things: some betel nut, a bottle of water, and a machete. If you’re hiking without a guide, you’ll want to have your own small knife on-hand, at the very least. Quality stainless steel is a must, as Pohnpei’s very air can cause some metals to corrode.

Water Bottle Water Bottle

Staying hydrated is key to good health anywhere, but it is especially important in the kinds of climate conditions found on Pohnpei. You should carry water with you everywhere you go (at least 2 liters per person for a full-day hike). We encourage you to GO GREEN and use refillable water bottles rather than contributing to Pohnpei’s formidable trash problem by purchasing disposable bottled water. There is currently no plastic recycling program on the island. If you throw it away, it goes in the landfill — and possibly in the ocean. We recommend Nalgene water bottles. They don’t break or leak and they last practically forever.

Camera Camera

Pohnpei is a very photogenic place; the natural environment is stunning and the people are warm and colorful. Any camera will do, but consider carefully how you’re going to protect it from moisture, rain, and splashing water. Keep your camera in a Ziploc back or waterproof case with silica gel when you aren’t using it. Be careful of condensation when going from an air-conditioned space to open air.

Compass Compass

Pohnpei is a small island, so it would seem like it would be hard to get lost, but it’s actually very easy to get disoriented in the forests or on the mountains. A good liquid-filled compass is a must-have companion to your Eco-Adventure Map Guide on any self-led excursion.

Machete Machete

We don’t recommend that you mess with machetes unless you’re already very comfortable with them. But, if you see this symbol anywhere, it means that the route or trail tends to get over-grown, making a machete a necessity. Furthermore, we’re implying that an excursion of this sort requires a local guide. For locals, the machete is kind of like an extension one’s arm. Machetes are sold at most hardware stores around town.

Technical Climbing Gear Technical Climbing Gear

If you plan to do any sport-climbing, you’ll need to bring all your own gear, ropes, everything. Absolutely nothing is for sale on-island. REI ships to the FSM, but you’ll have to wait 2-4 weeks for your orders. One option is to ship ahead general delivery and then pick up your box when you arrive.

Binoculars Binoculars

This is a mandatory item of gear for birders. Pohnpei’s rarest and most sought-after birds are hard to get close to. Binocs will help you tick them off your list. The more water-proof they are, the better. Store them as you would your camera.

Outdoor Sports Gear

Pohnpei has no sporting-goods store (Ace Hardware sells some very basic stuff, but nothing specialized or high quality). If you’re planning on doing any outdoor sports on the island like surfing, kiteboarding, kayaking, snorkeling, diving, camping, or biking, you’ll need to bring your own equipment. Pohnpei Surf Club has some surfboards on-hand, but they’re reserved for customers who break all their own during the course of their stay (they also have some kiteboards). Visit the respective pages for each of the adventure sports for more information.

Eco-Adventure Map Guide Eco-Adventure Map Guide(s)

Pick these up when you make land-fall. We think you’ll agree our guides are indispensable. They can obtained at Pohnpei Visitors’ Bureau, the Australian Embassy, hotels, restaurants, the public Library, and many other locations.

The Basics >> What to Bring

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Getting There

By Air

United Airlines

In the 1980s, Continental Airlines entered into an agreement with the FSM that made it extremely difficult or impossible for any other air carrier to service the country. For a brief time, Air Nauru made flights to Pohnpei from some of the island nations in the area, but the airline was repossessed by a U.S. bank when Nauru’s economy collapsed in 2005. Over the years, the Continental Micronesia island-hopper route from Honolulu to Guam became known for its exorbitant pricing. In 2012, United Airlines merged with Continental and inherited the latter’s monopoly in the FSM. Though the FSM has continued its efforts to attract other carriers and Pohnpei’s airport is now equipped to handle direct flights from the U.S. and Asian mainlands, United remains the sole commercial air carrier in the FSM and rates remain off the charts. The quality of service, unfortunately, does not reflect the pricing. Now the largest airline in the world and with little to lose by alienating a customer-base that has no other option, the company’s motto might as well be something that rhymes with “bucket.” Delays and cancellations have become a regular thing since United took over (sometimes the pilots will actually overfly an island because of heavy rain — in the tropics!). Don’t expect any apologies from the carrier or much sympathy from the residents, who have had to deal with this kind of nonsense for decades — local antipathy for the arrangement is legendary.

Pohnpei can be reached by two different routes via United:

West-Bound Route / Island-Hopper
  • Honolulu – Majuro – Kwajalein – (Kosrae) – Pohnpei
East-Bound Route / Guam
  • Guam – Chuuk – Pohnpei
Baggage Limitations & Fees

United Airlines gives visitors to Micronesia one (1) free piece of check-in baggage, one (1) carry-on bag, and one (1) carry-on personal item. Any additional luggage is subject to an excess baggage fee that varies depending on your country of origin.

Air Nuigini

Air Nuigini began offering flights to Pohnpei back in 2016. It is a very popular option for people travelling from Australia and the western Melanesia nations due to its more affordable rates compared to United Airlines. However due to the pandemic they have stopped all flights to Pohnpei for the mean time. Flights may resume in the near future but as of now you cannot get to Pohnpei via Air Nuigini.

Visit Air Nuigini for rates and updates on flight availability.

Air Nuigini Route:
  • Port Moresby-Chuuk-Pohnpei

By Sea

M/V Caroline Voyager, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

M/V Caroline Voyager or Micronesia Navigator

The M/V Caroline Voyager is a medium-sized supply ship while the Micronesia Navigator is a larger vessel more oriented to carrying passengers. Both vessels do periodic loops through different parts of the FSM, stopping at islands along the way. The schedules are fairly erratic and break-downs and other issues can result in long delays, but if you can get to Yap and you have time to kill, the ship is without question the cheapest way to visit Pohnpei and other islands in the chain. For information about fares and tickets, contact the FSM Marine Division.

  • +691.320.2865 / 2381 / 5829

The Basics >> Getting There

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