Located on the pristine Senipehn River, Pahn Sile is one of the few waterfalls well into the interior that almost anyone (even small children) can reach without the help of a guide — as long as you keep your eyes open for the branches in the path. A well-maintained trail begins at the end of the unpaved but well-graded coral and gravel road beyond Sapwalap Elementary School and opposite a concrete taxi stop. Houses are found along the path for much of the way, as well as historic rock-lined irrigation canals built by the Japanese. About 0.15 km (164 yd) before reaching the waterfall, a secondary path branches right and descends to a shallow point in the river, where you’ll cross and hug the right bank or walk in the stream as you continue to the falls just around the corner.
Pahn Sile‘s pool is wide and wonderfully cool, but not especially deep. The falls varies in volume depending on recent rain, gushing through a narrow portal and crashing onto rocks that form the rim of the pool. If you want a view from above the falls, bear left at the branch, proceed for 0.3 km (0.18 mi), and then cut off the trail and head straight toward the sound of the river. There is no path for this last part, but it’s easy enough to move through the forest. There are nice spots for a camp site above the falls in the forest along the path (pack out everything you packed in). In addition to the primary waterfall pool, there’s a small, deep pool just down river that is also an excellent place to swim, shaded by lush ferns and massive trees.
There are no access fees and no permission is needed to visit the falls.
If you would like a guide for the trip to the waterfall contact Raven at (+691)923-1862, he does not charge a fee but we do encourage you to tip him for his time.
As the closest lagoon islands to Kolonia and with the highest concentration of WWII historical sites anywhere around Pohnpei, Lenger and nearby Sapwtik make fantastic destinations for paddling enthusiasts. In addition to the attractions on each of the two islands, there are mangrove forests and some interesting reef environments to explore.
Around Lenger
Pahnaiau Getaway (Barbosa’s Wharf) to the Seaplane Ramp
This portion of the route is characterized by Lenger’s shallow fringe reef, a sandy, silty expanse dominated by small-scale coral growth, brilliant blue starfish, cowries, sea cucumbers of various types, and scattered beds of seagrass, which Pohnpeian’s call oaloahd. Keep an eye out for the main attraction: stingrays. They generally rest on the bottom in the sand and will shoot off when you approach. Not far beyond the wharf is the Jaluit Cistern, one of the oldest historical sites in Pohnpei State. The cistern was probably constructed in the late 1880s by German traders operating on the coast. A stone wharf originally connected it with the coast, but a few scattered stones are all that are left. Bullet holes in the masonry were caused by Allied strafing during WWII.
If you decide to make a wider arc around the island, you’ll pass over areas where the reef shelf ends and the deep part of the lagoon begins. Small sea turtles are seen on rare occasions near the reef wall. The majority of the reef fish will also be found at this natural boundary. Note, however, that the reef stretches all the way to Sapwtik in the northwest and there is no way around Lenger’s northern end without crossing it. The depth over the shelf varies from a few centimeters to a meter, depending on the time of day and the precise location. Because fragile corals and other organisms are harmed by feet or dragging keels, the northern passage should be attempted at high tide only.
The Seaplane Ramp to the Mangrove Passage
The reef on the eastern side of the island tends to be deeper than in the northwest and has denser beds of seagrass. Larger fish are found in this area, and sometimes juvenile black-tip reef sharks can be seen swishing their way around.
The Mangrove Passage to Barbosa’s Wharf
The tunnel-like mangrove passage winds about a third of a kilometer through a dense section of forest that mostly comprises members of the Rhizophora genus, identified by the arching prop roots that extend out of the water toward the tree trunks. It’s a nice, scenic paddle and a good place to spot shorebirds like the Pacific Reef Heron and Micronesian Kingfisher. Once out of the forest, you can follow the coastline past the ruins of the Japanese-era Kohatsu Wharf and back to Barbosa’s Wharf.
Around Sapwtik
A relatively well-preserved Japanese wharf extends southwest from Sapwtik’s coast all the way to the edge of the reef. This is a wonderful place for a picnic and swim or snorkel. There’s one large tree on the wharf, offering shade. To the west is a maze of mangrove clumps that are fun to paddle through (though they are not as extensive as Lenger’s) before reaching the western terminus of the island. North of the point is an exposed rocky place that’s a perfect pull-out spot for a snack. A little beyond that is the site of the coastal battery and nearby munitions magazine. Conditions north of Sapwtik’s coastline are very similar to Lenger’s northern sector — shallow and characterized by seagrass beds and silt. You shouldn’t try to kayak here except at mid to high tides. All along the coast, you’ll find evidence of Japanese occupation, low walls, foxholes, rifle pits, etc.
Starting
Ending
Distance (km)
Distance (mi)
St. Peter’s Church, Sokehs
—-
Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger
7.93 km
4.93 mi
Misko Beach, Dekehtik Island
—-
Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger
4.52 km
2.8 mi
Ice Dock, Kolonia Town
—-
Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger
3.53 km
2.2 mi
Nett Point, Nett
—-
Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger
1.97 km
1.22 mi
St. Peter’s Church, Sokehs
—-
Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik
7.75 km
4.81 mi
Misko Beach, Dekehtik Island
—-
Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik
4.34 km
2.7 mi
Ice Dock, Kolonia Town
—-
Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik
4.23 km
2.63 mi
Nett Point, Nett
—-
Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik
2.95 km
1.83 mi
Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger
—-
Japanese Seaplane Ramp, Lenger*
1.52 km
0.95 mi
Japanese Seaplane Ramp, Lenger
—-
Mangrove Passage Northern Entrance, Lenger
0.58 km
0.36 mi
Mangrove Passage Northern Entrance, Lenger
—-
Kohatsu Wharf, Lenger
0.42 km
0.26 mi
Kohatsu Wharf, Lenger
—-
Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger
0.51 km
0.32 mi
Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger
—-
Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik
1.29 km
0.8 mi
Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik
—-
Gun Battery, Sapwtik
0.74 km
0.46 mi
*Shallow reef shelf. This segment is only passable at middle to high tides.
Penieu is a gorgeous reef island in the southeast next to Kepidauen Ne (pass). The island is a major rookery for a colony of noddies and other seabirds, which fill the air with raucous clamor as they swoop around the trees. The primary nesting spot is within a strip of mangroves at the north end of the island (which we’ve dubbed “Noddy City”) and should be given a wide berth to avoid disturbing the habitat of the birds. The island also has a strange, curving sandbar around the north that forms a kind of protected, shallow lagoon with a sandy bottom. This is an excellent place for wading, swimming and playing if you have your kids along, but keep an eye out for stingrays. There are also sandy beaches and good swimming and snorkeling on the west coasts. A pearl farming operation was in progress in the shallow lagoon areas nearby, and a few ramshackle huts were been built on the beach for that purpose (unfortunately, they’re untidy and don’t add much to the scenery). Currents can be quite strong around the eastern side of the island.
Camping is possible on Penieu, which is owned by the Nahnmwarki of Kitti. Unfortunately, it’s difficult to get him or a family representative on the phone. If you’re interested in visiting, contact the Kitti Municipal Government Office at +691.320.5038, 320.5808, 320.5049, or 320.3257 and ask for assistance.
Takaieu and Dehpehk are two large volcanic islands connected by a bridge and linked to the coast of U by a causeway. Most of the local residents live around the eastern and northern coasts of Takaieu and the western coast of Dehpehk and commute to and from Pohnpei by boat. The islands are fun to explore if you want to get a glimpse of old-style Pohnpeian life sans roads and electricity. A seaward turn just before the Madolenihmw border brings one to the unpaved causeway. A well-maintained footpath runs east around Takaieu, crosses the Dehpehk-Takaieu Bridge, continues on the west coast of Dehpehk, and then wraps around the eastern coast, where it connects with another trail going over the interior hill. The marine areas along the eastern coast belong to the Dehpehk Marine Protected Area (MPA). No permission is needed to visit either island, but do be respectful and stay on the main paths around the inhabited areas.
Takaieu figures into a well-known local myth about two magical brothers. The island is said to have been created when these brothers dragged a large rock all the way from Yap — hence the name, which means “one rock.” The causeway road ends not far along the south coast and is replaced by a tidy rock footpath (vehicles can be parked on the side of the road near the trailhead). From there, the path bends around the mangrove-fringed eastern coastline, passing neatly maintained farmsteads here and there. Mwelling marks the spot of one of the megalithic structures built by Olsihpa and Olsohpa before they founded Nan Madol. The site is impressive, but is easier to reach by boat than from land. About halfway across the north side of the island, the path turns and connects with Dehpehk via a small concrete footbridge.
The Origin of Takaieu Island
There was once a woman in Salapwuk named Lienlama who had two sons named Mwohnmur and Sarapwau. The boys were quite mischievous and had many adventures that figure into Pohnpeian myth. In one story, the brothers went to the islands of Yap and used a magic spell to make a stone fly from that place to Pohnpei. They flew the stone to Wenik (modern-day U) and set it down in the lagoon, naming it Takaieu (“one stone”). They had brought some southern yams with them and they cooked these up, but threw the parts that were underdone into the forests of Alohkapw and Edienleng. And so they southern yam was first propagated in those places.
Dehpehk is long and skinny with a low ridge running along its length. Like Takaieu, it forms its own sub-division, or kousapw, The trail on the west coast is narrow, but heavily used as there are many residences on this side. Once you’ve reached the northern extreme of Dehpehk, however, there’s little reason to go further as the trail gets steadily harder to follow where many of the houses have been abandoned. If you do want to continue, you’ll end up at a homestead with a large piggery. Here the path turns west and climbs over the central hill, reconnecting with the western coastal trail. There’s a nice elevated view from a point just below Dolen Dehpehk (100 m).
Plan for 7-8 hours for this hike.
To obtain a guide who can show you around both islands contact Pohnpei Surf Club as one of their boat drivers / dive masters is from the area and can provide assistance with exploring the islands.
Naappears to be the largest island in Madolenihmw after Temwen, although it mostly consists of mangrove forests. In the mid-1830s, Na was home to a renegade Pohnpeian chief — the Wasai — who joined a group of foreign whalers in a fight against the Nahnmwarki of Madolenihmw and his brother, Nahnawa. The violent conflict ended with the murders of the Nahnmwarki and Nahnawa at the hands of the whalers, and the Wasai became the new Nahnmwarki (beginning a long cycle of violent power struggles in the district).
Currently Na is uninhabited. Though seagrass beds characterize the areas further out, there’s a beautiful swath of shallow, crystal clear water between them and the northern coastline. The bottom is sandy and a fantastic place to observe resident stingrays. The island itself is little more than a long, curving sandbar that has collected trees over its lifetime — mostly coconut palms. All the potential camp sites are on the northern coast as well as the beaches and best swimming.Snorkeling spots include Namwen Na Stingray Sanctuary to the north and the reef walls at the eastern edge of Pahn Nahkapw south of the island. The closest SCUBA diving is located on the reef wall around the eastern end of the island (boat access from outside the reef only). Divers usually begin there and drift on an in-coming tide along the wall as it curves west. Due to exposure to the prevailing winds, which cause heavy seas, the site is only an option during the middle of summer.
Beyond Pohnpei’s lagoon, the closest land to be found exists on two “satellite atolls” called Ahnd (pronounced änt) and Pakin (pä.keen). An atoll is made up of a number of coralline islets in a ring around a relatively shallow lagoon and is created when a high, volcanic island submerges over millions of years, leaving only the reef that fringed its shores. The islands form as sand, coral rubble, and other detritus collect on the reef and begin to support trees, small plants, and animals. Coral sand accumulates on the lagoon sides of the islands and creates beaches.
Ahnd (“Ant”) Atoll
Ahnd Atoll, popularly but erroneously spelled “Ant,” is 16 km (8 mi) southwest of Rohnkitti and consists of 13 low, luxuriant islands 3-4 meters above sea-level and a lagoon of 70 km2 entered by a single passage in the reef.
When the larger-than-life hero Isokelekel voyaged to Pohnpei, intent on overthrowing the rulers of Nan Madol, he came first to Ahnd and lived there for some time, learning about Pohnpeian customs from its inhabitants. In modern times, the entire atoll became the property of a single Pohnpeian family — the descendents of Henry Nanpei, who lived from 1862 to 1928. Nanpei’s shrewd business sense and knack for manipulating local power politics enabled him to acquire the atoll and amass a great deal of other land.
Ahnd Atoll Channel
Black tip reef sharks at Ahnd Atoll (PC: Tia Panuelo)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Imwen Sapw Island and channel entrance
Today Ahnd has a few human residents, the biosphere rangers who make sure people do not fish within the protected area. There is also resort run by the Nanpei family located on the island of Pasa (information for booking trips can be found below).
It is home to some of the largest colonies of black noddies, terns, boobies, and frigatebirds in the Pacific as well as a healthy community of gray reef sharks in and around Dauenai (passage).
The most interesting islands to camp on are Pasa, Nikahlap, Dolen Mwuroi, and Nahlos. The former two have long stretches of deserted white-sand beach and excellent swimming. Nan Imwinsapw is closest to Dauenai (passage), where all the best snorkeling and the most accessible diving is found, but it has a big rat problem. Pahn Mwek is near to both excellent snorkeling and some of the rare diving that exists inside the lagoon. For the most part, however, the lagoon is the domain of snorkelers, sandy and punctuated by beautiful coral heads with lots of color and life at low tide.
Dauenai on the south side is where most people go to SCUBA dive. It is known for orange sponges (on the west wall) and large numbers of barracudas, jacks, and sharks throughout. Reef fish populations around the pass, unfortunately, have declined in the last two decades, but hopefully will recover now that the area is protected. Even so, the place still feels busy compared to other locations and you’ll see all the familiar species — unicornfish, triggerfish, wrasses, surgeons, groupers, butterflyfish, angelfish, moorish idols, and more. Moray eels might be spotted on occasion. Spinner dolphins are regularly seen at the mouth of the passage and in the waters around Ahnd. Visibility in the pass, though not as spectacular as outside the reef, can reach 50 meters (164 feet) — certainly nothing to complain about.
In addition to drift-dives on either side of the deep passage, there is stunning (and frequently overlooked) diving on the outer wall of the barrier reef on the northwest side near Olouna (often known as “bird island” for the huge colonies of seabirds that nest there), and north of Pasa. The west wall of the barrier reef plummets to great depths, and because it is more protected from the northeasterly winds and waves, it is marked by an abundance of soft coral, holes, tunnels, and caves — an exciting place for any advanced diver. Giant clams are also common. Visibility on the outside edges can be extraordinary, exceeding 70 meters (230 feet). Currents can be swift both in the pass and around the outer walls.
Visiting Ahnd Atoll / Permission & Protected Areas
Because Ahnd is a privately owned island and UNESCO marine biosphere reserve permission is required from the Nanpei family for visits.
Contact LP Gas at +691.320.5661 / 2675 to make arrangements.
Core area(s) comprise a strictly protected ecosystem that contributes to the conservation of landscapes, ecosystems, species, and genetic variation.
A buffer zone surrounds or adjoins the core areas, and is used for activities compatible with sound ecological practices that can reinforce scientific research, monitoring, training, and education.
The transition area is the part of the reserve where the greatest activity is allowed, fostering economic and human development that is socio-culturally and ecologically sustainable.
Olouna (“Bird Island”)
Landing on Olouna island is prohibited to prevent disruption of the habitats of the seabirds who nest there. If you’d like to take a look at Olouna, consider making a kayak trip around it. You can arrange to pay your boat extra to transport a small ocean kayak or two.
Pakin Atoll
Pakin Atoll is composed of about 16 low islands, 13.6 km2 of reef, and a lagoon of 11 km2. It lies 38 km (24 mi) northwest of Palikir. In the early 1900s, Sokehs residents of Mortlockese descent were allowed to settle on the atoll, where their descendents (about 80) live to this day. Most of the islands are sparsely inhabited and all have excellent beaches, swimming, and nearby snorkeling.
One complication of visiting, however, is that Pakin has no true passage, making entry into the lagoon impossible for large boats and both difficult and dangerous for small boats. Boats enter at high tide at one of two places in the barrier reef (the usual spot is known as Uhrek), where the coral is slightly deeper than elsewhere — by a matter of a few inches. The crossing is narrow and complicated by strong surge. Except at the highest tides, the crossing must be carefully timed to correspond with the surge. Boats can easily capsize in the surf or be thrown up on the reef; several locals have been killed at the spot while trying to make the crossing in less than ideal conditions. When planning a visit, make sure that you hire an experienced pilot who knows this particular crossing and is committed to the safety of his passengers. Also, it is important to plan arrivals and departures to coincide with the highest tides.
All of the diving and the best snorkeling is on the reef wall outside the lagoon, where water clarity and reef conditions are simply mind-blowing. The wall north of Nikahlap is known for sharks, while the opposite side of the island is home to large schools barracuda. For sea turtle sightings, divers will want to try the walls on the northeast side. Turtles nest on many of the small islets north of Painpwel, Sapangin, Kehrot, and Osetik.
This small reserve covers an area of 1.39 km2 and includes the pristine mangrove forests around Pwudoi (north of Dolen Uh) and some of the adjacent lagoon and fringing reef. There are two major mangrove channels that run through the sanctuary. One goes 0.69 km (0.43 mi) up to Pilen Seleur — the same watercourse where the eel pools are located. The other channel is 0.61 km (0.38 mi) long. Both are excellent, scenic paddles with plenty of seabirds to scope out. The launch at Seinwar is a good point of access for this area.
Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
Mangrove Channels & Coastline
Western Kitti doesn’t have an abundance of long mangrove channels to paddle through, but it does have lots of smaller ones. The best of these are in the north. One interesting loop cuts around a chunk of mangrove forest, combining the 0.68 km (0.42 mi) of Dauen Tomwara with another 0.7 km (0.44 mi) segment. Another loop encircles Kiparalap Island with a 0.48 km (0.3 mi) segment through the mangroves. If you put in near the Sakartik Stream bridge (Pilen Sakartik), you can also experience this 0.89 km (0.55 mi) channel leading to the lagoon. Dauen Nansakar offers another 0.83 km (0.52 mi) of channel to explore.
Nearby Islands
Two single islands in the north — Kiparalap and Pohn Lahpar — and two island chains make great destinations for paddlers. You can get to the coast of Kiparalap from the south side and Pohn Lahpar from the east side. Otherwise, both islands are surrounded by mangrove forests. A string of small islands and mangrove clumps on the barrier reef south of Dauahk Passage (Kepidauen Dauahk) are roughly 5.5 km (3.42 mi) west of the community launch in Dien. It’s a fairly long paddle, but the islands make a nice spot for a rest and some lunch. The snorkeling on the inner reef walls in the area is sublime. Finally, the beautiful islands of Kehpara and “Black Coral” lie 6.58 km (4.1 mi) southwest of the Seinwar launch. There are primitive shelters on both islands for camping and incredible snorkeling in the pass that runs between. Kehpara has a beautiful white sand beach at one end.
Visit the Islands page for more information about Kehpara and Black Coral islands and how to book huts for overnight stays in either location.
Entering Kehpara MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
If Nan Madol is your primary destination, the southern route around Temwen is the shortest, following the tranquil passage of Dauen Moahk (a meditative way to begin or end the day). Note, however, that east-bound passage under the two bridges at Temwen Causeway is extremely difficult or impossible when the tide is coming in. The current flowing into the bay can be as powerful as a river.
Temwen Island Circumnavigation
For people that want an upper-body workout, the 8.9 km (5.3 mi) paddle around Temwen is an interesting journey with a variety of different sights along the way. Be informed on the tides before starting as the reefs on the northeast and northwest sides are only inches deep at low tide.
Heading north, there are wonderful views of scenic (but murky) Madolenihmw Bay and nearby Takaiuh and Nahnpahlap hills. Peipas Island, a man-made basalt burial structure that is probably related to Nan Madol, is hidden among the mangroves of Temwen’s western coast. Further on, stony Salong Point juts north almost to the edge of the channel. Unusual eroded rock formations and a complete lack of mangroves make the place visually unique and worth a look. There’s also a small sea-cave and a portal in the topography that frames conical Takaiuh. Depending on tides and recent rain, the sheltered bay east of the point is sometimes a nice place for a dip, though there isn’t enough coral in the area for snorkeling.
The segment between Salong Point and the Japanese Wharf can be a challenging paddle as Kepidauen Deleur is known for its rough water. This is apparently due to two seamounts in the area, called Mwudokendil and Mwudokensepehl. From the Japanese Wharf, it’s another 1.4 km (0.87 mi) to Nan Douwas. Enter the ruins from the north between Temwen and Peniot.
On the southern side of Temwen, you have the choice of several different channels through the mangroves, though all except Dauen Moahk are heavily silted in and impassable at low tide. The two largest islands between Temwen and Pohnpei — Mwudokalap and Mwudoketik — both host prehistoric stone structures related to Nan Madol. The former was the place where Isokelekel first encountered his estranged son, Nahlepenien, who would eventually become the first Nahnken and later the Nahnmwarki of U.
Nahnningi & Mall Islands
South of Temwen are Nahnningi(believed to be a man-made island from the Nan Madol era) and Mall islands. The latter has a stone tomb at the northern end. The Namwen Nahnningi Stingray Sanctuary lies northwest of the islands.
Visit the Islands page for more information about these locations.
Other Islands
Five islands are found northeast of Temwen at the edge of the massive reef shelf called Mad Pahra. Nahpali is littered with Japanese-era historical sites and has a couple of nice sandy beaches. Little Dekehmwahu also has a nice, secluded beach, but to get to it, you’ll have to paddle around Nahpali’s southern side. Na island’s nicest coasts are on the north side. The same is true of Dekehtik. Nahkapw is a little apart from the others with easy access to the best snorkeling in the area.
Visit the Islands page for more information about these locations.
Pahn Nahkapw & Kahnimweiso
The deep water between Nan Madol and Nahkapw at first appears to be a wide channel leading to the open ocean, but may in fact be something called a “blue hole.” It has been hypothesized that this trench is actually a collapsed portion of the reef shelf. Pohnpei oral histories speak of another stone city, called Kahnimweiso, that pre-dated Nan Madol and was said to lie where Pahn Nakapw is now. One theory proposes that the weight of the basalt constructions coupled with the undermining of the limestone reef shelf by freshwater run-off, could have caused a collapse and sent Kahnimweiso plummeting 65 meters to the bottom. When you see how the sandy shore at Nahkapw’s north end drops straight off into deep blue or experience the odd currents in the area, it’s not hard to believe that the site is special. To date, the theories have not been properly tested and Pahn Nahkapw has retained its secrets and its eerie feel.
Nan Madol
If coming from the south, enter the ruins through Dauen Moahk, the first mangrove channel encountered (high tide only). The first stops include Pahn Kadira and Kelepwel islets. From there, you can venture northeast up the canal to Peikapw, Idehd, Dorong, and Peneiring. Further north, notable sites include Kerian, Peikapw Sapwawas, Dau, Pahn Douwas, Pohn Douwas, Nan Douwas, and Konderek. On the return trip south, catch Lemenkau and adjacent Namwenkau (pool) and the huge boulder wall of Pahnwi at the southwest corner. The upper portion of Mweiden Kitti is silted in and nearly closed off by encroaching mangrove trees; it’s impassable even at high tide. All of the entrances on Madol Pah‘s southwest perimeter are now dead-ends, but provide nice sandy spots to picnic.
From the north, it’s easiest to enter Nan Madol at Dauen Nankieilmwahu between Temwen and Peniot islet — especially when surge and choppy seas in Pahn Nahkapw make the narrow gap at Nan Mwoluhsei too risky.
Paddling Distances Around Temwen Island
Starting
Ending
Distance (km)
Distance (mi)
MERIP
—-
Temwen Causeway
0.59 km
0.37 mi
Temwen Causeway
—-
Pahn Kadira islet*
1.7 km
1.0 mi
Dauen Moahk
—-
Pahnwi islet
0.89 km
0.55 mi
Pahnwi islet
—-
Lemenkau islet*
0.58 km
0.36 mi
Lemenkau islet
—-
Dorong islet*
0.62 km
0.39 mi
Lemenkau islet
—-
Peinering islet*
0.39 km
0.25 mi
Peinering islet
—-
Kerian islet*
0.42 km
0.26 mi
Peinering islet
—-
Nan Douwas islet*
0.41 km
0.25 mi
MERIP
—-
Salong Point
2.2 km
1.37 mi
Salong Point
—-
Japanese Wharf
1.0 km
0.64 mi
Japanese Wharf
—-
Nan Douwas islet*
1.4 km
0.87 mi
Japanese Wharf
—-
Nahpali Island
2.63 km
1.63 mi
Nahpali Island
—-
Dekehmwahu Island
2.00 km
1.5 mi
Kerian islet
—-
Nahkapw Island
0.89 km
0.55 mi
Nahkapw Island
—-
Dekehtik Island
0.52 km
0.32 mi
Dekehtik Island
—-
Northern Na Island
2.9 km
1.8 mi
Northern Na Island
—-
Dekehmwahu Island
0.77 km
0.48 mi
Mweiden Kitti
—-
Nahnningi Island
0.69 km
0.43 mi
Nahnningi Island
—-
Mall Island
0.42 km
0.26 mi
*Silted-in estuary. This segment may be difficult or impossible to traverse at low tide.
Dauen Sapwalap is the largest drainage in Madolenihmw, a wide, meandering channel that cuts through the mangrove forests from Kitamw and eventually empties into Madolenihmw Bay. Although the Lehdau River (Pillapen Lehdau) is probably the largest contributor to this major estuary, the two are not synonymous; the channel is also fed by three other watercourses, including the Kitamw Stream (Pilen Kitamw), Pwadapwad Stream (Pilen Pwadapwad), and River of Sekere Riau (Pillapen Sekere Riau). According to legend, a powerful demi-god named Lapongo — the same character involved in the story of Takaiuh peak — dug out the channel with his penis. The matriarch of the Lasialap Clan — a great eel responsible for the creation of Lipwentiak in Kitti and whose tail formed the great mountain in Nett, Pohnlehr — was also said to have dwelt in this channel for many years, terrorizing the local inhabitants.
During the 1889-1890 wars between the Spanish and Pohnpeians, which began in Ohwa and concluded in Kitamw, two contingents of Spanish troops were dispatched at the mouth of Dauen Sapwalap and attempted to move up both banks of the Pillapen Lehdau (Lehdau River) to reach a small half-finished fort built on a low hill by the Pohnpeian fighters. The first group of soldiers got terribly lost in the tangled forests and happened upon the fort only by mere chance. The second group was forced off-route by a seemingly supernatural flood and also ended up lost, camping overnight at Elieliwi before joining the fray. The assault cost the Spanish 21 men, and in the end the Pohnpeians merely withdrew and yielded a position that had meant little to them from the beginning.
In the last decade, the estuary became part of the Senipehn Mangrove Forest Reserve and afforded some environmental protections; tree-cutting, fishing, and gathering of other natural resources in the area is prohibited in most circumstances. Paddlers can explore the 2.6 km (1.62 mi) primary channel and its side passages by launching near the Lehdau River bridge, at the end of the road near Tahio, at the Madolenihmw “Ice Dock”, or at the MERIP boathouse.
Entering the mangrove reserve requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
Takaiuh Peak
While Sokehs Rock is the stand-out natural feature in the north, in Madolenihmw that title certainly goes to Takaiuh (“standing rock”), a majestic conical hill-island on the north side of the bay. Westerners called this feature “Sugarloaf” after the molded cones of sugar that were popular in Western Europe as early as 1470, but the local name and its story are much more interesting (see Madolenihmw Bay Area page for more).
Paddlers can get right up close to the iconic hill for a view from the water that is better than from anywhere on land. There’s also good fun to be had noodling around in the mangrove forests on the eastern shore (at high tide). A sweet spot to stop for a picnic lunch is the top of an exposed rocky rise 0.36 km (0.22 mi) northwest of the peak (no mangroves skirt this bit of the shore).
Pahn Dieinuh
Pahn Dieinuh, the southern point of the Dolopwail peninsula, is significant historically for the 1836 conflict that began there between the visiting British whaleship Falcon and two rival Pohnpeian chiefs — Luhk en Kesik ( the Nahnmwarki) and the Wasai, the first and second ranking men in the royal line, respectively. Things got ugly when the Nahnmwarki made a move to seize the ship and its cargo. When the ship attempted to flee, it ran up on the reef. The cargo was transferred to Nahpali Island and then stolen a month later by the Nahnmwarki‘s brother, Nahnawa. A battle ensued on Nahpali between Nahnawa‘s party and the whalers, ending in the deaths of the ship’s captain and three other sailors. The Wasai, who had been challenging the Nahnmwarki‘s authority for some time, seized this opportunity to rid the land of his enemy by joining the crews of other whaleships in hunting down both Nahnawa and the Nahnmwarki. Fighting continued for several days until the Nahnmwarki was shot and Nahnawa captured and hanged from the yardarm of the whaleship Lambton. Both bodies were buried at Pahn Dieinuh, and the Wasai assumed the position of the Nahnmwarki. There isn’t much of anything to see at Pahn Dieinuh now, but it’s a good spot for a break mid-route. The closest launch points are MERIP boathouse, the “Ice Dock”, and the Metipw launch.
Mwudokolos Island
In addition to the seven islands (Nahpali, Dekemwahu, Na, Dehketik, Nahkapw, Nahnningi, and Mall) found around Temwen, there are three small islands to the north that shouldn’t be missed. The first of these — Mwudokolos — is found a half-kilometer (0.33 mi) northeast of Metipw and easily accessed from the coral-dredged causeway/dock found there (ask at the nearest house for permission to launch). Archaeologist Arthur Saxe believed that the island was tied to Nan Madol in some way and that it might even be a man-made island, but Japanese archaeologists working on the island in recent years have found no hard evidence to support that idea. They did discover prehistoric stone structures and a house platform that dates to the Nahnmwarki Period of Nan Madol (post-1700). Glass beads, sherds, and clay pipes were also found, suggesting that Mwudokolos was occupied by foreign traders in the late 1800s. The island is privately owned, but unoccupied.
To obtain permission for day visits or overnight stays, call Sesuko Hadley at +691.320.2540.
Dahu Reirei Island
From Mwudokolos, paddlers can continue 1.8 km (1.13 mi) further north through the easternmost of two dredged reef channels to reach Dahu Reirei (“long channel”), a narrow, man-made islet with huts for picnickers and campers and lots of pleasant swimming and snorkeling. When we say this island is narrow, we mean narrow (10 meters wide). Unless you like being crammed together elbow-to-elbow, avoid the place on weekends and holidays. It’s also not a place to be on intensely hot days (there are no trees large enough to provide shade) or during bad weather (the island is hardly a meter above sea level at high tide). On partly-cloudy weekdays, however, it can be heavenly. The surrounding water is generally crystal-clear and the reefs, which consist mainly of varieties of staghorn coral, are surprisingly healthy and relatively well-populated with reef fish. Small thatched huts along the length of the strip can be rented for the day or overnight.
To make reservations for day visits or overnight stays and to arrange boat transport, call Joseph Helgenberger at +691.320.2229.
Lepin Dau (“Channel Island”)
The final island covered in this sector (it’s just off the edge of the Central Madolenihmw map, but appears on the U & Northern Madolenihmw map) is claimed by the same family as Dahu Reirei and has no official name, but as it lies adjacent to the primary channel every boat in the area uses to go from Areu and Ohwa to Madolenihmw Bay, it’s known as Lepin Dau or “Channel Island.” This island is larger and higher than Dahu Reirei and has some welcoming tree-cover (mostly pandanus). The channel on the west side is a nice spot to snorkel at slack tide, but at other times, the current can be so strong that snorkelers and swimmers run a strong risk of being swept away. A better spot for snorkeling is in the blue holes around the southeast side — well out of the path of the current. Here you can find beautiful coral grottoes, huge schools of needlefish, barracuda, cuttlefish, trumpetfish, angelfish, and parrotfish, an odd seasnake (the latter are venomous, but so passive that they pose little danger to snorkelers), and from time to time even eagle rays and small green turtles. It’s a fantastic picnic destination for paddlers.
You don’t really need to get permission to make day visits to “Channel Island,” but overnighters should call Joseph Helgenberger at +691.320.2229.
Nanwap Marine Protected Area
The reefs on the north side of Kepidauen Deleur make up the Nanwap Marine Protected Area (MPA), a marine reserve with excellent snorkeling and diving. The best place to snorkel is about 1.3 km east of Metipw in a protected reef hole, but watch for strong currents.
Daumwoakote, the magical 2 km (1.24 mi) mangrove passage running between Sokehs Island and Pohnpei Island, is an absolute must-see for anyone with a heart for adventure and an eye for beauty. If you launch opposite St. Peter’s Church, you can catch the tide and cruise west through the tunnel-like avenue of trees to the accompaniment of a chorus of birds. Early in the morning and late in the afternoon there are so many winged creatures around that the place feels like an aviary. The trees are also bewildering–great twisted wonders with looping prop roots and spiking pneumatophores. The mangroves propagate both by dropping dart-like propagules into the silty mud and by sending down hundreds of dangling extensions that add to the primordial atmosphere. Several species are found in the area. About two-thirds of the way through, you have the option of continuing in the main channel or deviating to one of two smaller passages just wide enough for a kayak or canoe.
Sokehs Island Circumnavigation
From the west end of Daumwoakote, roughly 10 km (6.2 mi) remain to completely encircle the island. Along the way, you’ll cross emerald reef pools in the bay, skirt dense mangrove forests, and get fantastic views of the green cliffs of Pohndollap. The “Doldrums” at APSCO makes a perfect spot for a rest, a rejuvenating swim, and a snack.
The Labyrinth
The “Labyrinth”, located southwest of Daumwoakote at the mouth of the Nankewi River, is composed of hundreds of small mangrove islets growing in a dense cluster. There is no particular route–just paddle in and let yourself wander through the myriad passageways and shallow pools, inhabited by crabs, the occasional black-tip reef shark or hunting snapper, communities of juvenile fish, and a variety of seabirds and shorebirds. The water depth ranges from a half meter to 1.5 meters.
Note that the area between the Sokehs Island Bridge and Daumwoakote is very shallow at low tide, and at high tide, you may find that branches over the water don’t give you much room to move. Most of the routes on this guide, however, should be passable during all but the most freakish of tidal fluctuations.
Further on, stony Salong Point juts north almost to the edge of the channel. Unusual eroded rock formations and a complete lack of mangroves make the place visually unique and worth a look. There’s also a small sea-cave and a portal in the topography that frames conical Takaiuh. Depending on tides and recent rain, the sheltered bay east of the point is sometimes a nice place for a dip, though there isn’t enough coral in the area for snorkeling.
