birding – Page 3 – Pohnpei Eco-Adventure Guide

Madolenihmw Bay Area

Dauen Sapwalap / Senipehn Mangrove Reserve

Visit the Paddling Around Madolenihmw page for a detailed description of this location and the adventures to be had in the area.
Entering the mangrove reserve requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Kamau Pwoungapwoung

Though we didn’t map the hike to this destination as part of the eco-adventure map series (for lack of time), it would, never the less, be an exciting adventure to consider. Kamau Pwoungapwoung refers to a freshwater pool and waterfall at the headwaters of the Dipwilap Stream (Pilen Dipwilap), one of the tributaries of the Senipehn River (Pillapen Senipehn). The place is significant as the location where the last battle between the Saudeleur‘s warriors and Isokelekel’s men was fought. Upon being defeated by Isokelekel, the Saudeleur transformed himself into a small blue fish, that inhabits the pool to this day, and leaped into the waterfall. The hike would be a long one from the area around Pahn Sile. The closest access point would probably be from the direction of Nihpit fern meadow (reached from eastern Kitti).

The absolute best choice for a guide is Relio Lengsi. Give him a call at +691.924.2580 and discuss the best route options and access points for this location. Offer $50.00 for a full-day hike.

Nanpahlap Peak

The 137 m (449 ft) hill to the east of Takaiuh looks as if its top has been lopped off — which fits in with the story about its creation (see Takaiuh below). Though steep in places and somewhat overgrown, the ascent isn’t too strenuous. At the summit are the tumbled ruins of a prehistoric stone structure and a breath-taking view. The whole area around the southern foot of the hill is criss-crossed with Japanese trenches and dotted with tunnels, including at least one very long one leading into the hill. The grid of paddies and irrigation canals where the Japanese successfully cultivated rice (despite Pohnpei’s challenging climate conditions) are found on both sides of the unpaved access road, though you can get closest to the bulk of these fields from another road to the west.

Everything is private land, but no official access fees are charged.

To hire a guide, ask at the houses in the area or contact Hanke Albert at +691.320.4047. Offer $25.00 for Nanpahlap or a half-day of exploration in the area.

Download FREE BONUS INSET MAP 6 here

Nanwap Marine Protected Area (MPA)

Nanwap Marine Protected Area is a 3.05 km² (305 hectare) section of the barrier reef and adjacent lagoon areas on the north side of Kepidauen Deleur (passage). The sanctuary was founded by community members from Metipw and Lukop and their respective chiefs and gained legal status in 2010. It became the first of Pohnpei’s MPAs to have its own formal community-created management plan with the support of the Pohnpei MPA Executive Management Network and the state offices of the Department of Land and Natural Resources, Division of Fish and Wildlife, Office of Fisheries and Aquaculture, and Environmental Protection Agency. Nanwap is a “no-take zone,” which means no fishing or gathering of any kind is allowed within the boundaries. It is regarded as the “most biologically diverse and best preserved spawning and aggregation site” for many of Pohnpei’s core reef fish species. Snorkelers should seek out the protected blue holes on the west side of the reef, while SCUBA divers will want to do a drift dive on the southern wall of the reef during an in-coming tide.

Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Pahn Dieinuh

Visit the Paddling Around Madolenihmw page for a detailed description of this location.

Peiai

Peiai is a small populated place near the turn-off for Pahn Sile waterfall. During the battle between the warriors of Isokelekel and the army of the last Saudeleur, Peiai was the place where the tide of battle turned dramatically (hence, the name references a situation where the runner-up in a race pulls ahead of the leader — loosely translated “the battle is reversed”). Isokelekel’s men were being beaten down by the forces of Nan Madol when one of the conqueror’s greatest fighting men pinned his own foot to the ground with his spear, refusing to retreat and declaring that he would kill any man who tried to run away from the fight. Isokelekel’s men rallied behind this show of bravery and pushed back the Saudeleur‘s warriors, chasing them up the Senipehn River and eventually to Kamau Pwoungapwoung, a waterfall at the headwaters of the Dipwilap Stream, where the Saudeleur was finally defeated.

Sapwalap

Sapwalap (“large land”) is an expansive region of mostly flat ground that makes up a sizable chunk of central Madolenihmw. The Japanese recognized Sapwalap‘s potential as a site of large-scale agriculture. During the thirty years leading up to World War II, sugarcane was cultivated and processed at a facility near Kitamw (the tower is still partly visible in the jungle off the road) and rice was grown in a patchwork of paddies fed by irrigation canals. Strangely, no one is growing rice these days, but the paddies are still there opposite the gleaming LDS Church. Other fields are found as far east as Lukop.

Tahio

Tahio, on the south side of Nanpahlap, is another place where the Japanese were active. The access road was built by them and the coastal area is full of trenches, rifle pits, dugouts, and tunnels. Everything is overgrown, but anyone who pokes around will be rewarded with interesting finds. Bring a local resident along.

Takaiuh Peak

You can’t visit Madolenihmw without being arrested by the sight of Takaiuh, a 160 m (525 ft) peak shaped like a traffic cone that stands on the north side of the bay and seems to guard the entrance to the Sapwalap estuary. The mythical origin-story of the hill — which bears a striking resemblance to the Biblical tale of the tower of Babel — involves Mwohnmur and Sarapwau, two wily brothers who enter into many Pohnpeian legends (they also created the Sahwar Valley and the rock of Pohnpaip).

How Takaiuh Came to Be

Long ago, two boys named Mwohnmur and Sarapwau were born in Salapwuk (Kitti) to a woman named Lienlama. The boys were always involved in clever schemes and mischief and traveled far and wide doing great works. Once, the brothers took a piece of stone, and using it like a canoe, paddled to Pohndolen Imwinsapw near what is now Tahio in Madolenihmw. There, Mwohnmur and Sarapwau amused themselves by piling up rocks until they had formed a large hill. A local demi-god named Lapongo saw what they were doing and wasn’t pleased, so he threw a stone at their hill and destroyed it. He then challenged the brothers to a competition to see who could build a mountain the fastest. The three set to work, but it soon became apparent that the boys were winning. Their mountain was so tall it had reached the sky. Being a poor loser, Lapongo became enraged. He picked up a stone and threw it at the new mountain, which broke into six pieces. The base of the mountain that remained standing was named Takaiuh (“standing stone”).

This was not the end of the conflicts between the brothers and Lapongo, however. Lapongo mocked and ridiculed the boys whenever he could, and they did not like it. Now, the brothers liked to play at a place called Pahnlikes, below the spot where they had settled on Likes peak west of modern-day Sapwalap. There was a steep slope there that they would slide down for fun, sitting upon the leaf sheaths of the kotop palm (Clinostigma ponapensis). The boys knew that Lapongo had been watching them and was aware of their play place, so they decided to trick him. Lapongo was invited to slide down the slope with the boys, but they chose a spot where the slope ended at the waterside (possibly the southern tributary of Pilen Kitamw). All three began sliding down the hill. When Mwohnmur and Sarapwau reached the bottom, they leaped off their sheaths and dived to safety, but Lapongo went straight and fell into the water. He sank down into the depths, and the brothers threw rocks on top of him to keep him from resurfacing.

Takaiuh is actually an island separated from the coast by a strip of mangrove forest. It was once inhabited, but is no longer. Though the hill is climbable, the ascent is extremely dangerous, characterized by very steep slopes and cliffs prone to rockslides with little or nothing solid to hold on to. For this reason we strongly advise visitors to enjoy Takaiuh from below rather than trying for the summit. Hikers who insist on seeking the summit, do so at their own risk. Distant views of the peak are found along the Circle Island Road, but the best close-up view from land is from the old Japanese road in Kepine. According to residents living in the area, the Japanese abandoned an attempt to build a trail all the way to the top of the hill. Some of the low wall can still be seen on the lower slope.

Map Guides >> Central Madolenihmw >> Madolenihmw Bay Area

By pni-surfclubPosted on May 5, 2013September 3, 2019Posted in biking, birding, central madolenihmw, hiking & trekking, historical sites, islands, paddling, prehistoric ruins, scuba diving, snorkeling, surfing, swimming & picnicking, waterfalls, world war sitesTagged bay, canoeing, caves, dauen sapwalap, fsm, hiking, historical sites, islands, kamau pwoungapwoung, kayaking, madolenihmw, mangrove forests, marine sanctuaries, micronesia, nanpahlap, nanwap, oceania, pacific, paddleboarding, paddling, pahn dieinuh, peiai, pohnpei, ponape, rice paddies, sapwalap, senipehn mangrove reserve, stand-up paddleboarding, SUP, tahio, takaiuh, trails, trenches, tunnels, waterfalls, world war sites

Dolen Merewi

Dolen Merewi is a flat-topped hill that stands apart from the interior mountains to the west and is highly conspicuous when driving through northeastern Madolenihmw. During the Spanish Period (1886-1898), the hill played a pivotal role in an armed conflict centered around Ohwa. During the fighting, Nahnmwarki Pol, the Protestant leader of Madolenihmw, took refuge on the summit of Dolen Merewi where it was said he prayed in earnest for the Catholics to be defeated. Though the Spanish claimed a victory in the end, they lost a great many men and the better part of their dignity. They never got what they wanted and spent the rest of their administration barricaded inside their dreary colony, Santiago de la Ascencion, at what is now modern-day Kolonia.

An unpaved but well-graded road runs inland right to the base of Dolen Merewi, and almost anyone living in the area can assist visitors in finding a suitable guide on the spot. The ascent takes less than an hour and climbs steeply through upland sakau (Piper methysticum) plantations, karara (Myristica hypargyraea), sadak (Elaeocarpus carolinensis), and other large native hardwoods. At the top of the hill, the forest thins and the trail passes hastily-constructed Japanese foxholes, trenches, and rifle pits. The summit (240 m / 787 ft) is at the north end and has unobstructed views of Kupwuriso to the northwest, Timwen Men to the north, and the glistening bay in the east. Huge flying foxes roost in nearby trees and can be seen soaring low overhead. Birders will find Crimson-Crowned Fruit Doves and Micronesian Ground Doves in plenty. The summit is a nice camp site.

See the Birding page for more info about bird-watching on Pohnpei.

No access fee is charged.

Plan for 3 hours round-trip with a nice rest at the summit.

To hire a guide, ask at the houses in the area or contact Hanke Albert at +691.320.4047. Offer $12.00-15.00.

Map Guides >> Central Madolenihmw >> Dolen Merewi

By pni-surfclubPosted on May 4, 2013September 3, 2019Posted in biking, birding, camping, central madolenihmw, hiking & trekking, historical sites, world war sitesTagged birding, dolen merewi, fsm, hiking, historical sites, islands, japanese historical sites, madolenihmw, micronesia, mountain, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, trails, world war sites

Dolen Nahnsapwe

Dolen Nahnsapwe, “hill of thunder,” is a small peak near the Nett–U border. As the crow flies, it’s about 1.3 km (0.8 mi) southwest of the Kupwuriso summit. Though rarely visited and not the highest point in the area, Dolen Nahnsapwe is intriguing because it’s associated with stories about the traditional thunder god, Nahnsapwe, and is said to be the place where thunder storms originate. It’s also the source of the Pwong-Kapwungapwung watercourse, a stream that forms a waterfall below the Lou Rahn ridge in Nett. It’s a challenging climb that follows a trail only part of the way, but the pay-offs come in the form of soaring vistas and gorgeous upland forests. You can approach the peak from either Nett or U or do a full traverse (6.75 km / 4.2 mi) from one side to the other.

Nett Approach

The Nett approach to Dolen Nahnsapwe feels wilder and is steeper and more strenuous. It begins on the side of an unpaved road in Paremkep. The first 0.6 km (0.37 mi) follows the same track that goes to Lou Rahn waterfall and cave with a gentle slope average of about 12%. After that, it branches off and climbs more steeply along the Lou Rahn ridgeline for 2.65 km (1.65 mi) with a slope average ranging between 20% and 25%. This brings hikers to the foot of the peak — a swampy area dominated by thickets of kotop (Clinostigma ponapensis) palms.

U Approach

The way up from U begins behind a cluster of houses at the end of the last road before the Madolenihmw border. On this side, things are much more developed and the trail is clear and well-maintained nearly to the top of the pass north of the peak. One conservation worker told us that sakau farmers from U frequently use this route to access illegal plots in the watershed on the Nett side. The 3.2 km (2 mi) trail meanders through inhabited areas and past a number of a small huts and residences (23% slope avg).

The last bit up to the tiny summit (593 m) is an over-grown, steep (46% slope avg), grubby, and sometimes unnerving scramble from the northwest side. The summit is tiny, and the ground up there has a springy, unstable feel as if you’re actually standing on layers upon layers of ferns and moss rather than solid ground — which may be the case. The effort and unease, however, are rewarded with a truly marvelous 300-degree view. Sokehs Mountain (276 m), Kolonia Town, the open summit of Kupwuriso (630 m), and Dolen Saldenre (629 m) are all visible — weather permitting.

You can do this climb as a day-hike, but a better option is to camp somewhere along the upper Pwong Stream (Pilen Pwong). Remember to pack out everything you packed in. A responsible camp site is one that is invisible once its occupants depart.

Plan for 8 hours for this hike.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Dolen Nahnsapwe. Offer $50.00 for a group of five or less.

Map Guides >> Nett & Western U >> Dolen Nahnsapwe

By pni-surfclubPosted on April 4, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in birding, camping, greater nett, hiking & trekkingTagged birding, camping, dolen nahnsapwe, fsm, hiking, islands, micronesia, mountains, nett, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, trails, u

Pahntakai Cave & Waterfall

Pahntakai literally means “under the rock” and one visit makes it immediately apparent why this geologically-unique location was given its name. A thin waterfall plummets over a concave cliff-wall more than 30 meters high, which shelters a wide strip of mostly flat ground. You can walk all the way across beneath the cliff to where the ledge widens even more and a small, rocky hill rises up north of the waterfall. Yawning caverns behind the falls host colonies of small insect-eating bats and Caroline Islands Swiftlets that hurry out at dusk to hunt for insects. If you want a closer look, you can climb up through the mounds of guano to the cave openings.

The waterfall itself varies greatly in volume, depending on rain, crashing onto jumbles of rocks below the ledge. It is possible to climb down the slope and stand under the water, but the rocks are slippery and dangerous and there is no pool.

The trail is found at the end of the road and is well-maintained and fairly level most of the way to the cave, skirted by several varieties of sakau (kava) and affording stunning views of the deep gorge below the falls, small huts on the steep hillsides, and the blue sea far out beyond the green of the island. Though you do not need a guide or any special permission to do this hike, the site is private property and the family at the last house on the road charges an entry fee of $3.00 per visitor. Make sure you bear left at the trailhead, rather than taking the path to the right which goes steeply downhill and eventually leads to a house. The hike takes a leisurely 40 minutes round-trip, but Pahntakai is so magical you’ll probably want to hang around and soak up the atmosphere.

Camping

The landowner, Pedro Marvis, permits visitors to camp overnight at Pahntakai, provided they are quiet and respectful of the place and take all their garbage with them afterward. The price per person is the same as when making a day visit — $3.00. The best place to camp is at the northwest end of the trail, where the strip of ground under the cliff is wide and flat. There’s a rock fire-pit there and sometimes some dry firewood left lying around. Because of the overhanging nature of the cliff, things stay dry even during heavy rain. There is one small stream that crosses the main trail about half-way from the trailhead — a good place to filter drinking water if you’re going to stay at Pahntakai a while.

Map Guides >> U & Northern Madolenihmw >> Pahntakai Cave & Waterfall

By pni-surfclubPosted on April 2, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in birding, camping, hiking & trekking, u & northern madolenihmw, waterfallsTagged bats, birding, camping, fsm, hiking, micronesia, oceania, overhang, pacific, pahntakai caves, pahntakai waterfall, pohnpei, ponape, trails, u, waterfalls

Kupwuriso

Kupwuriso, Pohnpei’s fifth highest mountain (depending on how you count them), is impossible to miss when driving through eastern U, where it towers over everything, its precipitous slopes clad in groves of endemic palms called kotop (Clinostigma ponapensis). When the Pohnpeian hero Isokelekel sailed around the island in the mid-1600s on a mission to overthrow the Saudeleur dynasty, he initially balked at the sight of the mountain palms which he mistook for an army of giant warriors dressed in grass skirts. It was not until he returned to And Atoll, that a local woman pointed out his mistake. Giants or no, the mountain has an ominous look and feel. It’s unusually close to the coast and rises up very steeply, making it appear much taller than it really is (630 m / 2,067 ft). The name means “stomach.”

Awak Valley Approach

There are two major routes to the small, rocky summit (630 m). The first begins not far from the end of the primary paved road at the rear of the Awak Valley. To protect Mwahnd and Alohkapw (Areu) Passages from invasion, the Japanese decided to place two 15 cm naval canons just below the summit of Kupwuriso at a place called Dol Reirei (“long hill”). To get the massive weapons up the mountain, they constructed a road that climbs up on the south side of the Awak Valley and follows the ridge north. The hike uses this track for most of the way, starting on a rocky private footpath to the right of the road. The steepest section comes at the beginning. Once on the ridge, things mostly flatten out, though there are some gentle ups and downs. The terrain is fairly tame the rest of the way, passing through upland groves of kotop palm, wild banana plants (utin wel), and gnarled stands of campnosperma (dohng) and elaeocarpus (sadak) — trees used to make canoe hulls.

One of the benefits of climbing Kupwuriso is that you’re more likely to get a clear view from the summit than from Nahnalaud. The perspective is better, too; Nahnalaud’s summit sits on a wide plateau, while Kupwuriso’s looks down to the valley from the top of a cliff. Sometimes, however, the mountain is fog-bound — especially from about noon to 2 PM. Plan for 4-6 hours round-trip.

Rohi Approach

The second route starts in Rohi district at the end of a paved road. This way is shorter but considerably more strenuous, shooting 1.3 km (0.82 mi) straight up the side of the mountain. It should be noted that a number of hikers have sustained injuries on this approach, so hire a good guide, go slow, and watch for loose rocks! The route begins in the inhabited lowland agroforest, which Pohnpeians call nansapw, and quickly ascends to the mid-level forests (nanwel), populated by giant hardwoods and tree-ferns. Beyond, the forest opens up and kotop palms abound. Once the slope starts to even out, you’ve entered the cloud forest — a fantasy world of stunted, twisting trees and air plants. It’s always wet here, and every surface is covered with a thick layer of bryophytic growth. Plan for 4-6 hours round-trip.

Japanese Gun Battery

The two guns are the British Armstrong Whitworth naval type identical to the one on Sokehs Mountain. Both are housed in steel and concrete bunkers and separated by a pillbox, where machine guns were placed. The battery was installed in 1943 and took fifty-five local men eight months to complete. At 580 meters (1,903 ft), these are the highest guns on Pohnpei Island. The gnarled forest that has grown up in front of the gun sites is mesmerizing, especially in foggy conditions.

Bird-Watching

Birders will find much to look at on the way up the mountain. Besides the typical honey-eaters, starlings, and lorikeets, this is a good place to look for the Crimson-Crowned Fruit Dove, Imperial Pigeon, and Pohnpei Cicadabird. Swiftlets are common at the summit.

Please visit the Birding page for additional information.

Ridge Camping

There’s a fantastic place to camp at 593 meters not far from the gun sites with a beautiful, unobstructed view of the valley. Bring your own water, dry tender, a tarp or heavy-duty rainfly, and stakes for your tent and tarp (high winds are a distinct possibility at such elevations). Remember to leave your site exactly as you found it. Pack out everything you packed in and properly bury all human waste.

Hiring a Local Guide

A lot of people know the way up Kupwuriso, so finding a guide is not difficult. If you want to tackle the Rohi approach, Miller Benjamin (from Saladak) is a good choice. From Awak, we recommend Relio Lengsi. Conservation Society of Pohnpei (CSP) can also assist you in finding a guide. Offer $40-50 for a group of five hikers or less (plus tips). Agree on a price beforehand.

Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for guide contact information.

Map Guides >> U & Northern Madolenihmw >> Kupwuriso

By pni-surfclubPosted on April 1, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in birding, camping, hiking & trekking, u & northern madolenihmwTagged awak, birding, camping, fsm, guns, hiking, historical sites, islands, kupwuriso, micronesia, mountain, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, rohi, trails, world war sites

Nan Koropwung Cliff & Caverns

Anyone who takes a good look at the mountains on the eastern border of Nett will note a dark patch of naked basalt amid the otherwise unvarying green of the steep hillsides. This is the cliff-wall and caverns of Nan Koropwung. The trail to this spectacular and little-known site begins at the end of the unpaved but well-graded road in Paremkep and meanders up the heavily-wooded slope with some rather steep and brushy sections. Eventually, one comes to a towering wall of prismatic basalt columns overrun by a waterfall, which can be dramatic after heavy rain, but is most often thin and misty. Below the falls, the bare rock is in the process of decomposition, smooth and crumbly.

The first 164 m / 180 yd (12% slope avg) from the trailhead brings hikers to a small sakau hut in the woods. The narrow stream crosses the path 57 m (62 yd) further (16% slope avg). After that, the path fades into obscurity and it’s a challenging 489 m (0.3 mi) bush-whack scramble to the cliff and waterfall (47% slope avg). That’s not the end, however, by a long shot. If you pick your way across the rocks under the falls and along the slope for about 80 m (87 yd), you’ll come to the first cave of three. Partially hidden by a curtain of vines, this cave is well-protected from the elements and makes a good campsite. There are great views of Nett and Kolonia and some flat, dry ground.

About 130 m (142 yd) further is a second cave — this one forming a low, tunnel-like passage parallel to the hillside. Swiftlets nest on the roof and their guano covers the floor. Scramble through and you find yourself in the final cave, which is like a bay window looking out over the serene landscapes of Nett and eastern Sokehs. There’s really nothing like this spot on the island. Take care, however — the cavern opens onto a sheer (certainly fatal) drop to the valley below.

Plan for 3-6 hours for this hike.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nan Koropwung. Offer $25-37.00 for a group of five or less.

Map Guides >> Nett & Western U >> Nan Koropwung Cliff & Caverns

By pni-surfclubPosted on March 6, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in birding, camping, caves, greater nett, hiking & trekking, waterfallsTagged birding, caves, cliff, fsm, hiking, islands, micronesia, nan koropwung, nett, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, trails

Dolen Eirike

Dolen Eirike (“hill of Eirike”) is a prominent pyramid-shaped peak in Eirike district at the rear of Nett — easily visible from Kolonia and standing out from everything else as one drives south from the coast.

The ascent to the summit makes for a nice half to full-day excursion. A paved road runs through Kahmar, crosses the Pilen Kahmar bridge, and then climbs up and along a low ridge in Eirike before dipping back down again. Along the drive, you’ll pass rows of gorgeous Mindinao gums and Terminalia carolinensis trees (a species found only on Pohnpei and Kosrae) and several spots with wonderful views of the river valleys on both sides. The Eirike road, however, has some bad spots near the turn-off, so you’ll need to go slow and have a vehicle that isn’t too low to the ground.

The trailhead is located at the end of the paved road just beyond the last house and at the foot of the mountain. During the Japanese period, Catholic missionaries working in Kolonia were forceably relocated to a camp in this vicinity, though it’s not clear exactly where. Now the area is mostly small farmsteads, sakau plots, and jungle.

The well-trodden lower 0.28 km (0.17 mi) of the trail winds upwards through large areas of sakau cultivation with an average slope of about 23%. As you begin to move above the cultivated areas, the forest thickens and provides cover from the sun but not much relief from the stifling heat. The rest of the climb to the summit is a pretty consistent slope of about 38%. Giant tree ferns with blood-red sap, wild banana plants (utin wel), elaeocarpus, and ivory nut palms are abundant on the slopes.

Slightly less than a half kilometer from the top, you’ll pass a series of Japanese World War II trenches that cross the path. Historical records seem to indicate that anti-aircraft guns were also installed nearby, but they aren’t there now.

The summit itself is often overgrown, but you can get some nice views of Kolonia Town and Sokehs Island through the trees. There’s plenty of flat ground for a campsite and enough trees for protection against any wind.

Plan for 4-8 hours for this hike.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Dolen Eirike. Offer $25-50.00 for a group of five or less.

The Story of the Tree of Nansokele

Eirike was part of the ancient region of Nansokele before the chiefdom of Nett split off from Sokehs. As is told in one famous legend, shortly after the fall of the Saudeleurs, some men were trying to cut down a large Terminalia carolinensis tree (kehma) near Dolen Eirike with the intention of building a canoe. No matter what they tried, however, the tree would not fall down. The high priest of Wene was called for and used a special adze to chop through the stubborn trunk, but instead of toppling over, the tree rose up and vanished into the clouds. Soon after, word spread that a canoe made from the wood of the same tree had descended from heaven and hovered over the ocean at a spot near Temwen Island (Sounahleng). The people took this to be a divine omen, and a great meeting followed at Poasoile on Temwen Island, where the paramount chief system that exists today was established.

Map Guides >> Nett & Western U >> Dolen Eirike

By pni-surfclubPosted on March 5, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in birding, camping, greater nett, hiking & trekking, historical sites, world war sitesTagged camping, dolen eirike, eirike, fsm, hiking, islands, micronesia, mountains, nett, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, trails

Nan Kiepw & Na Malek

Nan Kiepw

Nan Kiepw, which means “in the lilies,” is a hillside overshadowed by Dolmweir peak. A Pohnpeian myth tells of a Yapese magician, named Sou Iap, who voyaged to Pohnpei and was responsible for the creation of Sokehs Rock). One of Sou Iap‘s companions, Souliken And, noticed a girl collecting clams on a reef north of Sokehs Island, and thinking her very attractive, chased her deep into Nett, carrying an ihd leaf with him. On the hillside below Dolmweir peak, Souliken And lost his leaf and named the place after a species of white lily he saw there.

During the Sokehs Rebellion in 1910, Pohnpeian rebels fleeing from German and Melanesian troops briefly took refuge at Nan Kiepw, rebuilding some earthen fortifications from the Spanish Period and repelling a small attack.

Today, Nan Kiepw maintains a pristine beauty that betrays no sign of past violence. A tributary of the Nanipil River (Pillapen Nanipil) runs through the area, forming a wide gentle cascade, some small pools (though none big enough for swimming), and a “horsetail” waterfall before winding into the valley. Upstream is a basalt outcropping — really a great boulder — that forms an overhang where a few people can comfortably camp out of wind and rain. Huge ivory nut trees, red sandlewood, and a variety of hardwoods dominate the lush native forest, and there are many unusual varieties of fungi to be seen.

The Origin of the Ivory Nut Palm

On the fourth voyage to Pohnpei after its founding, a man came named Mederiap, bringing with him the ivory nut palm and propagating it on the island. Prior to this time people had mostly lived in caves, because they had nothing to use for roofing material, but ever afterward, the fronds of the ivory nut palm were woven together to produce roof thatch for houses.

The moderately challenging trail begins behind a house near the Nett hydroelectic building at the end of the Nanipil River Road (the same trailhead for Nahnalaud). Hikers cross the Nanipil River directly and walk along a well-maintained footpath for 0.99 km / 0.61 mi (5% slope avg) before coming to the first major branch. The left (east) branch leads on toward Nahnalaud, while the right (west) branch heads to Nan Kiepw. From this point it’s 1.4 km / 0.87 mi (14% slope avg) to the last residence along the trail at 265 meters of elevation, and then another 1.8 km (1.12 mi) to the waterfall. This last segment has two little ascents with slope averages of about 20% and 26% and a more moderate bit in between (11% slope avg). Sakau (kava) plantations are found on both sides of the trail much of the way. Hikers should take care to avoid damaging these valuable plants.

Adenanthera pavonina (Red Sandlewood), Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Crab’s Eye Vs. Red Sandlewood: What to Know and Why it Matters

Two species of trees found both in inhabited areas and in the upland forests of Pohnpei produce small brilliant red seeds about the size of popcorn kernels. These can be seen scattered across the forest floor and often on the trail leading to Nan Kiepw. Red seeds with a single black dot on them belong to Abrus precatorius (Crab’s Eye Seed or John Crow Bead), while solid red seeds come from Adenanthera pavonina (Red sandlewood). The first type of seed (with the black dot) contains a compound, called abrin, that is 75 times more toxic than ricin and can be fatal if ingested; the fatal dose is about 0.1 mg for an adult of roughly 68 kg (150 lbs). Symptoms of poisoning include nausea, vomiting, convulsions, liver failure, and death after several days. The second type of seed (all red) is harmless when cooked and is sometimes eaten as a snack by Pohnpeian children. Strangely, the same Pohnpeian name — kaikes — is used to identify the two species of trees. Both Abrus precatorius and Adenanthera pavonina originate on the Indian subcontinent. Seeds are sometimes used to make necklaces and other jewelry.

Na Malek

Na Malek (“his chickens”) is a rock overhang and cave — located in the part of upland Nett once known as Nansokele — said in myth to have been the home of the demon Taimuan. The site, which has excellent views of the valley, Dolen Eirike, and Dol Rakied, is reached via a steep loop of path (0.61 km / 0.38 mi with a 42% slope average) that branches off from the Nan Kiepw trail. The overhang is large enough to provide a protected camping spot, and the elevated cave is bone-dry, flat-floored, and suitable for sleeping. Water running off the rock can be filtered for drinking. This is a relaxing and beautiful place to watch birds, including the Grey White-eye and rare Long-billed White-eye.

Plan for 8 hours for both Nan Kiepw and Na Malek.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nan Kiepw. Offer $50.00 for a group of five or less.

The Tale of Taimuan

A well-known Pohnpeian myth states that Na Malek was the the home of a hideous old demon, named Taimuan, and his sister, Litapinmalekelek. Taimuan had a hankering for human flesh and was, in particular, interested in the beautiful daughter of the Saudeleur — the supreme ruler that reigned from Nan Madol. Deciding that he wished to devour the girl, Taimuan set out for Nan Madol, transforming himself into a handsome young man along the way and leaving his old parts at different points in the mangroves — his white hair, swollen legs, swollen testicles, sagging eyelids, etc. When Taimuan arrived at Nan Madol and presented himself to the Saudeleur, both the girl — who was called Kisin Ntamwahu (“a little bit of good blood”) — and her father were impressed with the young suitor. Kisin Ntamwahu fell for Taimuan and begged her father to let them marry. Soon the two were married and given a home on Pahn Kadira.

After residing at Pahn Kadira for a while, however, Taimuan obtained permission from the Saudeleur to take Kisin Ntamwahu back to Na Malek. On the way, he picked up all his old parts from the mangroves and was restored to his prior appearance. Kisin Ntamwahu realized she had been tricked, but Taimuan carried her away against her will and confined the girl inside the cave at Na Malek. Then he climbed to the top of the mountains to invite all the other demons in the area to join him in feasting on the girl. While he was away, his sister, Litapinmalekelek, discovered Kisin Ntamwahu and felt sorry for her. She began to dig the girl out of her prison and encouraged Kisin Ntamwahu to turn herself into an ant, in order to escape, and flee into the forest. She warned the girl not to pass any plants without greeting them politely. As Kisin Ntamwahu ran, she greeted all the plants, big and small. All except one. Feeling a sudden need to urinate, she relieved herself in the forest and didn’t realize she’d done so on a plant called kampanial.

When Taimuan found that Kisin Ntamwahu was gone, he confronted Litapinmalekelek, but she claimed to know nothing. In a rage, Taimuan showered his sister with obscenities (specifically, he shouted, “Your vagina! My penis!” — a highly offensive reference to an act of incest) and then took off into the forest to catch Kisin Ntamwahu. He questioned each plant he passed, but none would tell him anything until he came upon the kampanial, which told Taimuan which way Kisin Ntamwahu had gone. Shortly thereafter, Taimuan met two worms on the path. He asked them where the girl had gone and they promised they would tell him if he pulled down his eyelids. He did so, and the worms threw dirt in his eyes. When Taimuan tried to wash his eyes out in a nearby streamlet, the worms muddied the water upstream, causing him to go blind and eventually die.

Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nan Kiepw.

Map Guides >> Nett & Western U >> Nan Kiepw & Na Malek

By pni-surfclubPosted on March 4, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in birding, camping, caves, greater nett, hiking & trekking, waterfallsTagged birding, camping, caves, fsm, hiking, kiepw waterfall, micronesia, na malek, na malek cave, nan kiepw, nett, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, taimuan, trails, waterfalls

Lou Rahn Cave & Waterfall

Tucked away in the little-seen Nett hinterlands is one of Pohnpei’s most beautiful hiking destinations. Uluhlen Lou Rahn, a fence-like ridge, extends northwest from the place where the mountains of U meet those of Nett, hiding from view the verdant valley of the Pwong Stream (Pilen Pwong). Cutting through this gorge from its source below Dolen Nahnsapwe, the stream spills over a high cliff to form a thundering waterfall next to a large cave with a view of the misty valley floor. Though there is no quick way down to the bottom of the waterfall from the cave (you can backtrack a ways and make your way down the slope to the stream), there is a gorgeous pool for swimming just up-stream with cool, crystal-clear water.

The trail to the site begins off the unpaved but well-graded road in Paremkep and sees plenty of traffic from sakau farmers and residents on the first 0.6 km (0.37 mi) leading toward the spur (12% slope avg). Once it reaches the ridge, it cuts east and passes along Lou Rahn’s inside slope rather than following the ridgeline (0.92 km / 0.57 mi, 19% slope avg). The hardest aspect of this full-day hike is the treacherous footing, as much of the last leg of the route crosses the sharp, jumbled rocks of old landslides now obscured by high grass. Take care and watch each step; a fall into one of the hidden crevices could result in a serious sprain or fracture — not a good thing to have way out in the forest on Pohnpei. There are also a great many sakau (kava) plants in the area — a massive number, in fact — which hikers must take care to avoid damaging. The roots of the plant are used to make Pohnpei’s potent ceremonial drink. Large plants can be twenty years old or more. Small huts, which farmers use while working on their plants, are passed at several places along the route.

The cave sits just to one side of the falls with a stunning view of the hidden valley. The roof is a bit low in places, but it’s quite a fair size none the less. Though a thin stream of water flows across one side of the cave floor, the rest is dry and makes an excellent camping location. Hunters often use it, and you may notice their cooking pots stored in crevices at the rear of the cave.

Plan for 6-8 hours for this hike.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Lou Rahn. Offer $37-50.00 for a group of five or less.

Map Guides >> Nett & Western U >> Lou Rahn Cave & Waterfall

By pni-surfclubPosted on March 3, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in birding, camping, caves, greater nett, hiking & trekking, waterfallsTagged birding, caves, fsm, hiking, islands, lou rahn, micronesia, mountains, nett, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, rainforest, trails, waterfalls

Liduduhniap Waterfall, Nanipil & Nan Madap Attractions

Liduduhniap Waterfalls

The easiest waterfalls to visit on Pohnpei (no hiking required) are the tiered “horse-tail” falls, Liduhduhniap, just a few kilometers from Kolonia. When the Greater Nett Eco-Adventure Guide was published in 2015, we wrote of Liduduhniap:

“Some might consider accessibility to be a red flag and assume that a location so close to town would be completely spoiled by a constant flow of visitors and thoughtless development. That’s not the case here.”

Unfortunately, things have changed recently (2017). Under the direction of Pohnpei’s new tourism department, the landowners at Liduduhniap have chosen to severely undermine the natural integrity of the site by replacing the dirt path to the lower falls with an unsightly series of concrete steps and a concrete hut near the edge of the pool. Toilets have also been built on the site. For those of us who knew the place before this “development”, it will never be quite the same again, but Liduduhniap is still a beautiful spot — not just the two waterfalls themselves, but the greater area, which is lush, rugged, and often partially enshrouded in thick mists that drift down from the steep mountains. The population around the site is relatively sparse, and it is hoped that most of the land will remain as it has for decades — green and wild.

The Liduduhniap Waterfalls lie on a portion of the Nanipil River (Pillapen Nanipil) located right at the feet of the mountains and fed by a great deal of rain (the primary dam and reservoir that supplies the town with water is just a bit upstream). The upper falls cascades 4 meters (13 ft) into a deep basalt plunge pool with a jaw-dropping elevated view of the river valley and the slopes of the mountains. From there it spills over the lip and plummets another 8 meters or so (26 ft) into a larger, but shallower pool. Swimming is excellent at both pools, though the first is more difficult to get in and out of. Most people simply opt to take a flying leap off the rocks, but you can also carefully cross the river above the falls and climb down to the pool from the far side without too much trouble (go barefoot or wear five-fingers to avoid losing your flip-flops in the swampy sections). The water is crystal clear — except immediately after heavy rains — and always on the chilly side, making it a great escape for oppressively hot and humid Pohnpei days. The deep, narrow valley funnels air along so that there’s always a bit of a breeze, too, which keeps the ferns waving hypnotically and the temps down. No one is quite sure how deep the upper pool is, but it’s deep — deeper than you’ll ever sink after a jump. However, one must still take care to scan the water before leaping; flash floods sometimes wash tree trunks and other debris down from the mountains and these can become wedged in the pool below the surface. Depending on how high the river is, you may be able to swim up and get behind the falls, where there’s a small depression in the rock. There’s also a large cavern on the eastern side of the pool. The lower pool is too shallow for jumping.

The well-manicured and landscaped gravel trail to the site begins left of a large nahs (community hut) near the unpaved road and opposite the landowners’ house, meandering past blossoming hibiscus shrubs, plumeria trees, and ginger until it reaches a couple of ramshackle huts above the river. These make nice spots for a picnic lunch, while in the evenings the family uses them for pounding and drinking Pohnpei’s dizzying ceremonial drink, sakau (kava). Turn right by the huts and scramble down to the river to visit the upper falls. Note the mortar holes on the north side of the pool rim, where sakau was pounded in ancient times. To reach the lower pool and waterfall, continue along the main trail and down a series of concrete steps. The family charges an access fee of $1.00 per person to visit the falls. Occasionally they may ask you for $5.00 if it looks like you plan to take a lot of photos of the site.

Be advised that there have been many injuries and several fatalities at Liduduhniap! The spot is extremely prone to flash floods. In 1999, two Pohnpeians were swept away by a flash flood and carried over both falls to their deaths. In 2002, three visiting Palauan athletes were also killed by a flash flood; there’s a monument to them next to the trailhead. Danger from slips and falls is another issue. In 2012, an American educational volunteer fell to her death from the upper falls, which prompted the landowners to install a dodgy rope ladder on one side of the upper pool. Read the Safety Considerations in the right column and BE CAREFUL.

Plan for 30 min – 2 hours to enjoy the waterfalls.

Upper Nanipil Bird Walk

If you continue up the road from Liduduhniap, you’ll soon pass the dam and reservoir on the left. Just beyond this, also on the left, a footpath leads into the forest and runs through the woods above the stream for 1.1 km (0.68 mi). Among birders, this scenic walk is second only to Sokehs Mountain in terms of the variety and prevalence of species that can be seen. It’s easy to get to and doesn’t require any huffing and puffing, and the forests are rich and unspoiled and full of birds. There are no houses along the trail, which means that traffic and noise are at a minimum. You can see many species on the walk, but highlights include the Pohnpei Cicadabird (Coracina insperata), Pohnpei Fantail (Rhipidura kubaryi), Pohnpei Flycatcher (Myiagra pluto), and Crimson-Crowned Fruit Dove (Ptilinopus porphyraceus). We suggest you hire a local birding guide and bring a pair of binoculars. Stick to the path to avoid damaging this pristine watershed.

Plan for 2-3 hours for this walk.
Visit our Birding page to learn how to find birding guides.

Sengnaip Waterfall

This little-known two-tiered waterfall is located about 400 m (0.25 mi) south of the Nanipil Bird Walk described above. If you cut off the path and continue down the slope for about 170 m (186 yd), you’ll hit the main stream, which you can follow up for another 144 m (157 yd). At this point, you reach a large basalt pool that narrows on the far side and disappears into a rocky slot. You can get a great view and wonderful pictures of the falls from the rocks on the east side of the pool, but there’s no easy way to go further without swimming. If you do the latter, you’ll end up in a small plunge pool enclosed on three sides by high rock walls. There’s a cave just above the water level on the east side. The spot is unbelievably peaceful and has been seen by very few people. Treat it with utmost respect.

Like Liduduhniap downstream, this location has extreme flash flood potential. Read the Safety Considerations in the right column.

Plan for 2-3 hours for this excursion.
Visit our Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of guides who can be hired for this hike.

Likei & Pahn Pwet Waterfalls

If you hire a knowledgeable guide and continue hiking south at the conclusion of the Nanipil Bird Walk (where the trail crosses a stream on a large log), you’ll soon strike the main river again. The route stays with the watercourse for 1.5 km (0.93 mi) with very gentle elevation gain (4% slope avg). At the end of this segment, the river is joined by another stream coming from the southeast. Following either course for about a third of a kilometer will lead you to a waterfall. The western route continues 0.37 km (0.23 mi) up a slope, where the hike steepens to about a 25% slope average before coming to Likei Waterfall. The eastern course leads 0.23 km (0.14 mi) with a 18% slope average to Pahn Pwet Waterfall. The two waterfalls are quite dramatic and little-known both by visitors and by local people. This area, called Nan Madap, is actually disputed territory; both Sokehs and Kitti claim it, though the municipal boundaries as they are typically drawn seem to place the location within Sokehs.

Plan for 5-7 hours for this hike.
Visit our Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of guides who can be hired for this hike.

Nan Kiepw Waterfall

Also with a local guide, a third falls can be accessed from a completely different route, beginning just west of the community hut by the Liduduhniap trailhead. This hike climbs up the mountain slopes fairly steadily for 3 km (1.86 mi). The first two thirds of the distance is relatively easy with a slope average of about 12%, but then the slope steepens considerably to about 41%. Nan Kiepw Waterfall is high up at about 500 meters of elevation (it may be one of the highest falls on the island), just below the summit of Dolen Nanikep and off the east side of the trail. Sometimes you can see this falls from the lagoon after heavy rain.

Serious trekkers have the option of continuing past the waterfall, up to Dolen Kiepw (610 m), and on to Dolmweir (735 m), where a thatched shelter was built for hikers in 2013 (note that the roof of the hut was already deteriorating when we visited only six months or so after it was constructed). This is an admittedly tough hike with slopes ranging from 25% to 40% and very rough terrain. The shelter is 1.5 km (0.93 mi) beyond Nan Kiepw falls. From the shelter, trails run west to Pekenuht (705 m) and down into Pehleng or east to Nahnalaud (772 m).

Plan for 5-7 hours for this hike.
Visit our Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of guides who can be hired for this hike.

Nanipil River Swimming Holes

“Cable Bridge Hole”

This is by far the most popular swimming spot on the Nanipil River located 4 km (2.5 mi) from downtown Kolonia, where the watercourse turns sharply away from the Nanipil River Road and forms two deep, placid pools. There used to be a cable footbridge that crossed this portion of the stream, but now all that remains are a couple rusting cables strung high above the water. The water at the site is clean and quite cool — an excellent place to freshen up on a sweltering afternoon. Avoid the site, however, during or immediately after heavy rain, as the water gets muddy from all the sediment washing into the valley upstream. Cars can be parked on the opposite side of the road.

“The Swimming Pond”

This is a favorite with young kids in the area, located 5.3 km (3.3 mi) from downtown Kolonia. A short walk from the Nanipil River Road leads to a long, deep pool with a steep slope on the far bank. Rope swings are often strung up on both sides of the pool, and there are some grassy spots to picnic and a tiny hut or two. The landowners, who live in a house on the side of the road opposite the trailhead, charge visitors $1.00 per person.

Flash floods are an issue at both sites, due to Nanipil Valley’s narrowness and the volume of rain that can fall in a short period of time in the steep mountains to the rear. Be wary.

Map Guides >> Nett & Western U >> Liduduhniap Waterfall, Nanipil & Nan Madap Attractions

By pni-surfclubPosted on March 2, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in birding, camping, greater nett, hiking & trekking, swimming & picnicking, waterfallsTagged birding, fsm, islands, lewi bird walk, liduduhniap waterfalls, likei waterfall, micronesia, nan kiewp waterfall, nan madap, nanipil, nanipil bird walk, oceania, pacific, pahn pwet waterfall, pohnpei, ponape, sengnaip waterfalls, waterfalls