Pohnpei Eco-Adventure Guide

Dream Inside, Step Outside

Category: camping

Ahnd & Pakin Atolls

Pohnpei’s Satellite Atolls

Beyond Pohnpei’s lagoon, the closest land to be found exists on two “satellite atolls” called Ahnd (pronounced änt) and Pakin (pä.keen). An atoll is made up of a number of coralline islets in a ring around a relatively shallow lagoon and is created when a high, volcanic island submerges over millions of years, leaving only the reef that fringed its shores. The islands form as sand, coral rubble, and other detritus collect on the reef and begin to support trees, small plants, and animals. Coral sand accumulates on the lagoon sides of the islands and creates beaches.

And Atoll, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Ahnd (“Ant”) Atoll

Ahnd Atoll, popularly but erroneously spelled “Ant,” is 16 km (8 mi) southwest of Rohnkitti and consists of 13 low, luxuriant islands 3-4 meters above sea-level and a lagoon of 70 km2 entered by a single passage in the reef.

When the larger-than-life hero Isokelekel voyaged to Pohnpei, intent on overthrowing the rulers of Nan Madol, he came first to Ahnd and lived there for some time, learning about Pohnpeian customs from its inhabitants. In modern times, the entire atoll became the property of a single Pohnpeian family — the descendents of Henry Nanpei, who lived from 1862 to 1928. Nanpei’s shrewd business sense and knack for manipulating local power politics enabled him to acquire the atoll and amass a great deal of other land.

  • Ahnd Atoll Channel
  • Black tip reef sharks at Ahnd Atoll (PC: Tia Panuelo)
  • Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
  • Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
  • Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
  • Imwen Sapw Island and channel entrance

Today Ahnd has a few human residents, the biosphere rangers who make sure people do not fish within the protected area. There is also resort run by the Nanpei family located on the island of Pasa (information for booking trips can be found below).

It is home to some of the largest colonies of black noddies, terns, boobies, and frigatebirds in the Pacific as well as a healthy community of gray reef sharks in and around Dauenai (passage).

The most interesting islands to camp on are Pasa, Nikahlap, Dolen Mwuroi, and Nahlos. The former two have long stretches of deserted white-sand beach and excellent swimming. Nan Imwinsapw is closest to Dauenai (passage), where all the best snorkeling and the most accessible diving is found, but it has a big rat problem. Pahn Mwek is near to both excellent snorkeling and some of the rare diving that exists inside the lagoon. For the most part, however, the lagoon is the domain of snorkelers, sandy and punctuated by beautiful coral heads with lots of color and life at low tide.

Dauenai on the south side is where most people go to SCUBA dive. It is known for orange sponges (on the west wall) and large numbers of barracudas, jacks, and sharks throughout. Reef fish populations around the pass, unfortunately, have declined in the last two decades, but hopefully will recover now that the area is protected. Even so, the place still feels busy compared to other locations and you’ll see all the familiar species — unicornfish, triggerfish, wrasses, surgeons, groupers, butterflyfish, angelfish, moorish idols, and more. Moray eels might be spotted on occasion. Spinner dolphins are regularly seen at the mouth of the passage and in the waters around Ahnd. Visibility in the pass, though not as spectacular as outside the reef, can reach 50 meters (164 feet) — certainly nothing to complain about.

In addition to drift-dives on either side of the deep passage, there is stunning (and frequently overlooked) diving on the outer wall of the barrier reef on the northwest side near Olouna (often known as “bird island” for the huge colonies of seabirds that nest there), and north of Pasa. The west wall of the barrier reef plummets to great depths, and because it is more protected from the northeasterly winds and waves, it is marked by an abundance of soft coral, holes, tunnels, and caves — an exciting place for any advanced diver. Giant clams are also common. Visibility on the outside edges can be extraordinary, exceeding 70 meters (230 feet). Currents can be swift both in the pass and around the outer walls.

Visiting Ahnd Atoll / Permission & Protected Areas

Because Ahnd is a privately owned island and UNESCO marine biosphere reserve permission is required from the Nanpei family for visits.

The Tenants of UNESCO Biosphere Reserves

  • Core area(s) comprise a strictly protected ecosystem that contributes to the conservation of landscapes, ecosystems, species, and genetic variation.
  • A buffer zone surrounds or adjoins the core areas, and is used for activities compatible with sound ecological practices that can reinforce scientific research, monitoring, training, and education.
  • The transition area is the part of the reserve where the greatest activity is allowed, fostering economic and human development that is socio-culturally and ecologically sustainable.

Olouna (“Bird Island”)

Landing on Olouna island is prohibited to prevent disruption of the habitats of the seabirds who nest there. If you’d like to take a look at Olouna, consider making a kayak trip around it. You can arrange to pay your boat extra to transport a small ocean kayak or two.

Pakin Atoll

Pakin Atoll, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Pakin Atoll is composed of about 16 low islands, 13.6 km2 of reef, and a lagoon of 11 km2. It lies 38 km (24 mi) northwest of Palikir. In the early 1900s, Sokehs residents of Mortlockese descent were allowed to settle on the atoll, where their descendents (about 80) live to this day. Most of the islands are sparsely inhabited and all have excellent beaches, swimming, and nearby snorkeling.

One complication of visiting, however, is that Pakin has no true passage, making entry into the lagoon impossible for large boats and both difficult and dangerous for small boats. Boats enter at high tide at one of two places in the barrier reef (the usual spot is known as Uhrek), where the coral is slightly deeper than elsewhere — by a matter of a few inches. Kids at Pakin Atoll, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)The crossing is narrow and complicated by strong surge. Except at the highest tides, the crossing must be carefully timed to correspond with the surge. Boats can easily capsize in the surf or be thrown up on the reef; several locals have been killed at the spot while trying to make the crossing in less than ideal conditions. When planning a visit, make sure that you hire an experienced pilot who knows this particular crossing and is committed to the safety of his passengers. Also, it is important to plan arrivals and departures to coincide with the highest tides.

All of the diving and the best snorkeling is on the reef wall outside the lagoon, where water clarity and reef conditions are simply mind-blowing. The wall north of Nikahlap is known for sharks, while the opposite side of the island is home to large schools barracuda. For sea turtle sightings, divers will want to try the walls on the northeast side. Turtles nest on many of the small islets north of Painpwel, Sapangin, Kehrot, and Osetik.

  • Nikalap Island, Pakin
  • Nikalap Island, Pakin
  • Nikalap Island, Pakin
  • Painpwel Island, Pakin
  • Painpwel Island, Pakin
  • Painpwel Island, Pakin

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Ahnd & Pakin Atolls

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in atolls, birding, camping, islands, kiteboarding, marine attractions, paddling, scuba diving, snorkeling, surfing, swimming & picnickingTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Dry-Bags & Packs

Dry-Bags

For ages backpackers and other outdoor adventurers have struggled to keep the contents of their backpacks dry when out in the elements. In some environments, where rain is a rarity, simply having a waterproof nylon bag-cover was enough. But in places where wet was the norm, bag-covers just didn’t cut it. For one thing, no bag-cover could ever seamlessly envelope the entire backpack; the area where the straps are was always uncovered, allowing rain to drip down the hiker’s back and eventually soak into the bag. Furthermore, the nylon covers were thin and relatively fragile. When pushing through trees or brush, they’d snag and tear. Some people resorted to lining the inside of their backpacks with garbage bags, which kept their stuff dry, but allowed the exterior of the bag to be soaked.

Eventually someone — probably a paddler — decided that what they needed was an air-tight / water-tight bag so secure it would even float if dropped into water. Enter the roll-top dry-bag.

Basic PVC Roll-Top Dry-Bags

Basic Roll-top Dry-bag

Roll-top dry-bags work in the following way. There’s one opening at the top. Users fold the excess material at the opening over itself repeatedly and then use a set of plastic buckles to tightly secure it, trapping a small amount of air within the bag. Once clipped, the bag is fully-waterproofed and — presuming it has enough air trapped inside and isn’t too heavy — will float. The most common bags are made of PVC and consist of seamless cylinder with a bottom welded on, and in some models, also taped or glued.

PROS: Unless there’s some sort of manufacturing defect, these bags really do keep their contents dry, even when completely submerged, and that’s really the whole point. The heavy, durable PVC is rip and tear-proof and stands up to rough treatment just fine (I have one that I’ve been using for 19 years). The bags are excellent for use in boats, kayaks, canoes, etc. See-through styles are available, which allow you to figure out where something you need is before you dig around in the bag.

CONS: It is possible to puncture PVC bags with sharp objects. They’re heavy when compared to nylon and other typical bag materials. Because the PVC is quite thick, they don’t compress well when empty and take up a lot of space. The roll-top style makes them pretty inconvenient if you’re going to be removing and re-stowing things in your bag regularly (such as a camera). Kayakers will be forced to stop paddling completely and use both hands to open and close the bag properly — which may be impossible if there’s rough water or strong current. The bag interiors have no built-in padding, so something like a camera or lens has to be wrapped or otherwise cushioned in some way. Bags have no interior divisions or pockets, so finding one object is difficult without dumping everything out.

THE VERDICT: PVC dry-bags suffer from the same inconveniences as all roll-top bags, but they still perform very well when it comes to doing what they are designed to do — keeping your stuff dry. Good brands include Overboard, Seattle Sports, Cascade Designs SealLine, and Sea to Summit.

Basic Nylon Roll-Top Dry-Bags

Nylon Dry-Bag
Non-permeable nylon bags with the same design as the PVC bags are also available.

PROS: They’re super light and compress to almost nothing when empty.

CONS: The thin nylon is not very durable; it can snag and rip or tear and is far more prone to punctures than PVC. Seams are generally taped and glued, which theoretically should make them leak-proof, but sometimes they fail anyway. The nylon provides even less protection than the PVC for the contents of your bag. They have all the same inconveniences as any other roll-top bag: they take care to close up properly and have no inside divisions or pockets.

THE VERDICT: Nylon dry-bags really work best packed inside a conventional backpack or mesh dive bag. Using multiple nylon bags inside a backpack is one way to keep your stuff organized and dry at the same time. They’re too fragile to perform well on their own, however. Good brands include Overboard, Seattle Sports, Cascade Designs SealLine, and Sea to Summit.

OUR RECOMMENDATION: Despite their many inconveniences, roll-top PVC dry-bags continue to be the most reliable and durable option for adventures on the water.

Roll-Top Dry-Packs

The dry-backpack developed from the simpler dry-bag concept — a heavy PVC sack with a single roll-top opening. The pack style incorporates back padding, padded shoulder straps, chest and waist straps, and (depending on the model) an outer pocket or mesh. There aren’t many brands that make dry-packs and two stand out — Overboard and Seattle Sports.

Seattle Sports Aquaknot Dry-Pack

Seattle Sports Aquaknot Dry-Pack

PROS: The Aquaknot performed well on both trekking and paddling excursions on Pohnpei. It never leaked. Though not as heavily padded as the Overboard bags, the pack is comfortable enough on the body. The model comes in two capacities — 22 and 29 liters. It has one mesh side-pocket on the outside for a small bottle or other object. There are two clipping options. The chest strap and waist belt help distribute weight across the body.

CONS: The bungee area is useless; it would have been better with a rear pocket instead. There are no interior pockets or other divisions. Access is only through the roll-top.

THE VERDICT: This is a good, solid, dependable bag. Though slightly smaller than the Overboard models, it measures up.

Overboard Dry Backpack

Overboard Waterproof Backpack

PROS: When tested on Pohnpei, the bag stood up to abuse and never leaked. The padded shoulder straps, back, and lumbar support make this bag pretty comfortable to wear, even when it’s heavy. The chest and waist straps help keep the weight positioned properly on your body. With three different capacities going up to 30 liters, there should be plenty of room for gear. The single interior pocket is great for small stuff you need to find quickly like a flashlight, keys, or box of matches. There are two options for clipping the top closed and a nice top handle for picking up the bag. There’s an elasticized mesh pocket on the side, which can handle small bottles or other objects.

CONS: There are no interior divisions and no interior padding to protect gear. Contents can only be accessed through the roll-top. The bag is heavier than a conventional backpack. The bungees on the back are mostly useless; they stretch out over time and get snagged on stuff. The Velcro strap on the top doesn’t really do anything except get snagged on low branches and brush.

THE VERDICT: Though it lacks a few useful features, this pack performs well and has a good design.

Overboard ProSport Dry Backpack

Overboard ProSport Waterproof Backpack

PROS: Like the other packs we’ve reviewed, this model has good padding on the shoulder straps and back, a comparable chest strap and waist belt, and a top carry handle. It also has a zippered interior pocket. The capacity is 30 liters — plenty big enough for all the gear you need on a short trek. It never leaked when we tested it in a wide range of conditions on Pohnpei. One thing it has that the other bags don’t have is a useful zippered mesh pocket on the back. And for some reason, it’s slightly cheaper than the other Overboard bag above.

CONS: Other than the one pocket, there are no interior divisions. The bag has no padding. It’s heavier than a conventional backpack. The contents can be accessed only through the roll-top. The bungees aren’t really useful for anything.

THE VERDICT: This is a very good dry backpack with a few small advantages over the Overboard Dry Backpack and Seattle Sports Aquaknot.

OUR RECOMMENDATION: The two Overboard bags are nearly the same, but the ProSport narrowly wins out due to a couple of small features and slightly cheaper price. The Seattle Sports Aquaknot is also excellent if you’re looking for a smaller bag.

Adventures >> Gear Recommendations >> Dry-Bags & Dry Backpacks

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Backpacking Stoves

Gear Advice: Backpacking Stoves for Pohnpei

Liquid Fuel Stoves

MSR Whisperlite Liquid Fuel StoveLiquid fuel stoves, such as those made by MSR and Optimus / Svea, are an option on Pohnpei, as white gas is available at the local hardware stores.

PROS: They heat quickly and have adjustable flames. They perform well in windy conditions. You can buy the fuel on-island.

CONS: You can’t bring these stoves on the airplane — you’d have to ship them to yourself surface mail, which would take up to 2 months. Liquid fuel stoves are also notorious for clogging. You have to waste fuel to prime some of them. The fuel is pretty toxic, and if it leaks in your pack, it will ruin a lot of stuff. Fuel has to be stored in metal bottles — which are heavy. The stoves themselves are also heavy.

Canister Stoves

Canister StoveThese stoves are fueled by an external butane or propane fuel canister that is thrown away when depleted.

PROS: They are more fuel-efficient than a liquid fuel stove.

CONS: The canisters are expensive and heavy. You can’t find replacement canisters in Pohnpei’s stores. Canisters can’t be brought on an airplane at all (including airmail), because they contain pressurized, flammable material. They’re also very bad for the environment; empty canisters can’t be refilled — they end up as trash.

Alcohol Stoves

Cat Food Can Alcohol StoveThe last choice is the alcohol stove. This is the simplest type of stove, the lightest, and the least prone to malfunction, because it has no complicated parts (no parts at all). It is nothing more than a reservoir that holds fuel, which is set aflame and burns out on its own.

PROS: The benefits of this stove type for an adventure trekker are many. Alcohol stoves are small and weigh less than 28 g (5 oz). They are fueled by denatured alcohol, which is cheap and can be purchased at Pohnpei’s hardware stores. Fuel can be stored in a regular plastic bottle. You can make the stove itself for less than $10.00 with simple materials found on Pohnpei, so you don’t need to worry about bringing one. If you do bring one, it can be taken on the airplane, as long as it’s clean.

CONS: Alcohol stoves have a slower than average boil time (6-8 minutes) and a lack of flame adjustment. It’s easy to crush these tiny stoves, but they can usually be bent back into shape with relative ease.

OUR RECOMMENDATION: A self-made cat food can alcohol stove combined with a home-made windscreen is by far the the most practical and affordable choice for Pohnpei trekkers. Watch Andrew Skurka’s video below to learn how to make this awesome stove.

Adventures >> Gear Recommendations >> Stoves

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Backpacking Cookware

Gear Advice: Backpacking Cookware for Pohnpei

MSR Titan Kettle

MSR Titan Kettle Titanium CookwareThis is a popular model among ultra-light trekkers. It holds 0.85 L (0.9 qt) and has a lid and folding handles.

PROS: It’s light — just 4.2 oz (119 g) — very durable, and not too pricey (about $60.00).

CONS: After heating, the handles are too hot to pick up bare-handed. This pot has a reputation for being hard to clean (some foods tend to stick). It’s too small if you’re cooking for two.

Evernew Titanium Pasta Pot

Evernew Titanium Pasta PotThis is a 1 L (1 qt) pot with folding insulated handles and lid.

PROS: It’s even lighter than the MSR Titan Kettle at 4.1 oz (116 g). The insulation on the handles makes it possible to grip them without protection. It has a nice strainer feature on the lid for pouring off excess water. You can get it for cheaper than the Titan, too, at about $45.00.

CONS: It’s not quite as durable as the MSR Titan. Like the Titan, it’s a small pot that isn’t practical when cooking for others.

MSR Base 2 Pot Set

MSR Base 2 Cookware SetIf you’re cooking for two or more, the MSR Base 2 Set is an option. It includes 1.5 L (1.6 qt) and 2.5 L (2.6 qt) pots that nest inside each other, a lid, and a detachable pot-holder.

PROS: For what’s included, the weight isn’t too bad — about 1 lb (481 g) for everything. The coating on the pots prevents sticking of food, making cleaning easier. The detachable handle doesn’t get hot the way an attached handle does.

CONS: Aluminum isn’t as light as titanium and it’s also less durable — the pots tend to get bent out of shape. They also scratch easily; the coating doesn’t stand-up over the long-term. It’s way too heavy if you’re cooking just for yourself.

OUR RECOMMENDATION: If you’re eating on your own, the Evernew Titanium Pasta Pot narrowly beats out the MSR Titan. If you’re cooking for a small group, the MSR Base 2 Set is the best choice.

Adventures >> Gear Recommendations >> Cookware

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Water Bottles

Gear Advice: Water Bottles for Pohnpei

Nalgene Classic Hard-Sided Water Bottle

Hard-Sided Bottles

Hard-sided plastic bottles made by companies like Nalgene are a common choice among backpackers.

PROS: They don’t leak in your bag or crack when dropped (at least the stalwart classic model).

CONS: They’re heavy and bulky, and an empty bottle will take up just as much space in your pack as a full one. This is a problem when you’re doing longer hikes, where every bit of your backpack real estate is precious, or when covering very rough terrain, when you want your load as light as possible.

Platypus Collapsible Water Bottles

Collapsible Bottles

An alternative to hard bottles are soft-sided bottles, like those sold by Platypus. These are essentially the modern version of the water skin. They have small openings to prevent the water from spewing out when handled.

PROS: They’re light and can compress to next to nothing when empty.

CONS: They can rip or puncture, and they aren’t as easy to refill as hard-sided bottles because of the small mouths.

Camelbak Hydration Bladder

Hydration Bladders / Reservoirs

A third choice for water storage is a hydration bladder or reservoir. This is essentially a large, plastic water sack with a drinking tube and valve at one end. Bladders usually go with a canvass or nylon pouch or backpack-style carrier. Many good companies make them, including Camelbak, Platypus, MSR, Nalgene, and Osprey.

PROS: There are several really strong points to using bladders. They allow you to distribute the weight of the water you’re carrying evenly across your back, and they are lighter than hard-sided bottles. The bladders are designed to lay flat, and because they are soft-sided, you’ll never have to worry about the corner of a bottle sticking into your ribs or scapula as you hike. You can find backpacks with an outside pocket specifically designed to hold the reservoir. The reservoir doesn’t need to be removed from your pack in order to drink, because the drinking tube is always hanging over your shoulder. In fact, you don’t even need to stop hiking; you can just grab the valve with your mouth and bite down on it to drink as you chug along. Almost all bladders have a large screw-top opening, which makes filling them easier.

CONS: Reservoirs are designed to carry all your water, so they tend to be much bigger than soft-sided bottles, and as you drink the water, what’s left sloshes around a lot until you stop to refill. Marginally annoying. They are also heavier than soft-sided bottles, mainly due to the drinking tube. Like soft-sided bottles, bladders can be punctured or torn and are also prone to leaks at the seams. Filling them completely can be a challenge if you’re dealing with a stream or waterfall; you’ll need someone to hold the bladder up in the air and then either pour or pump water into it (you can’t fill it while the thing is lying on the ground). The bite valves get chewed up over time and don’t work as well anymore. They can also clog easily if there’s any sediment in your water. Perhaps the biggest drawback is keeping bladders clean. They don’t dry easily inside and are prone to bacterial and fungal growth; it is necessary to regularly flush them with vinegar, baking soda, or bleach. Sometimes the water can taste a bit funky compared to other types of water storage — probably due to the previous point. Finally, bladders are the most expensive option for water storage.

For an in-depth review of the top 10 hydration bladder models on the market, check out this article at SealGrinderPT.

OUR RECOMMENDATION: Hard-sided bottles are fine for half-day hikes, but soft-sided, collapsible bottles are more practical for longer treks when weight and efficient use of pack-space are crucial. Bladders have some definite advantages for shorter hikes, but also score below soft-sided bottles in terms of practicality for multi-treks in challenging terrain.

Adventures >> Gear Recommendations >> Water Bottles

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Shelters

Gear Advice: Shelters

Tents

Sierra Designs One-Man TentWeekend hikers usually think of tents as the definitive backpacking shelter, but they actually have many drawbacks. One tent model is available for purchase on Pohnpei, but it’s so heavy you’d never want to hike anywhere with it much less Pohnpei’s rugged mountains and rainforest. Those set on using a tent should bring one from home. Sierra Designs is a good brand.

PROS: Tents are easy to set up on any patch of relatively flat ground and don’t require trees. They protect sleepers against wind and blowing rain. They keep the bugs out.

CONS: They’re very heavy and bulky. Even the most well-ventilated models don’t provide enough airflow to be comfortable in Pohnpei’s extremely warm, humid climate, soaking the occupants in sweat and the condensation from their breath. They require a groundsheet as insulation, which is added weight in your pack. The typically nylon rainflies won’t be able to stand up to Pohnpei’s torrential rains for very long. The poles sometimes break. Finally, good tents are really expensive — $500+ is not unusual.

Tarp Systems

The “big blue tarp” that is widely sold on Pohnpei is terrible for hiking — bulky, very heavy, and difficult to hang without a lot of conveniently located trees and skeins of heavy rope. There are, however, tarps that are well-designed for trekking. The best are made by Mountain Laurel Designs.MLD Cuben Fiber Grace Tarp

For a single sleeper, the 2.1 x 1.5 x 2.7 meter (7 x 5 x 9 ft) Cuben Fiber Grace is a good choice. It only weighs 180 g (5.9 oz), the ridgeline is bonded and taped, and there are 8 tie-outs. The tarp can be hung as an A-frame with a ridgeline or pitched like a tent with trekking poles as the vertical supports. Cuben Fiber can stand up to a solid night of heavy rain without issue.

MLD Hammock Hexagon TarpFor a pair of sleepers, the Cuben Fiber Grace has a larger 2.6 x 2.1 x 2.8 meter (8.5 x 7 x 9.2 ft) version that weighs 225 g (7.8 oz). Also, a larger, heavier option is the 3.2 x 2.6 meter (10.5 x 8.5 ft) Hammock Hexagon Tarp, which weighs 241 g (8.5 oz). It also has a bonded and taped ridgeline seam, but only 6 tie-outs. Though it is designed to hang above a hammock, it can also be pitched A-frame tent style with trekking poles.

PROS: These tarps are super light and pack small, can handle Pohnpei’s regular torrents, and provide plenty of durability. Unlike tents, they allow plenty of airflow, making sleeping more comfortable.

CONS: They’re super expensive — $285-300. They take some experience to hang properly and can be frustrating if you don’t know what you’re doing. If you’re pitching tent-style, you’ll need trekking poles or something else to use as vertical supports.

OUR RECOMMENDATION: The benefits of tarps far out-weigh those of tents when trekking on Pohnpei. Both the MLD Grace and Hammock Hexagon models are great choices that will perform well in island conditions.

How-To Videos

How to Hang a Ridgeline

How to Tie a Cow Hitch Knot

How to Use a Sleeping Hammock

Adventures >> Gear Recommendations >> Shelters

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Temwen Vicinity Paddling

Hiking / TrekkingWorld War II FortificationsArchaeology Site / RuinBird-WatchingCampingSwimmingSnorkelingKayaking / CanoingPicnickingBeachesMarine Reserve

Dauen Moahk, Temwen Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

If Nan Madol is your primary destination, the southern route around Temwen is the shortest, following the tranquil passage of Dauen Moahk (a meditative way to begin or end the day). Note, however, that east-bound passage under the two bridges at Temwen Causeway is extremely difficult or impossible when the tide is coming in. The current flowing into the bay can be as powerful as a river.

Temwen Island Circumnavigation

For people that want an upper-body workout, the 8.9 km (5.3 mi) paddle around Temwen is an interesting journey with a variety of different sights along the way. Be informed on the tides before starting as the reefs on the northeast and northwest sides are only inches deep at low tide.

Heading north, there are wonderful views of scenic (but murky) Madolenihmw Bay and nearby Takaiuh and Nahnpahlap hills. Peipas Island, a man-made basalt burial structure that is probably related to Nan Madol, is hidden among the mangroves of Temwen’s western coast. Salong Point, Temwen Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)Further on, stony Salong Point juts north almost to the edge of the channel. Unusual eroded rock formations and a complete lack of mangroves make the place visually unique and worth a look. There’s also a small sea-cave and a portal in the topography that frames conical Takaiuh. Depending on tides and recent rain, the sheltered bay east of the point is sometimes a nice place for a dip, though there isn’t enough coral in the area for snorkeling.

The segment between Salong Point and the Japanese Wharf can be a challenging paddle as Kepidauen Deleur is known for its rough water. This is apparently due to two seamounts in the area, called Mwudokendil and Mwudokensepehl. From the Japanese Wharf, it’s another 1.4 km (0.87 mi) to Nan Douwas. Enter the ruins from the north between Temwen and Peniot.

On the southern side of Temwen, you have the choice of several different channels through the mangroves, though all except Dauen Moahk are heavily silted in and impassable at low tide. The two largest islands between Temwen and Pohnpei — Mwudokalap and Mwudoketik — both host prehistoric stone structures related to Nan Madol. The former was the place where Isokelekel first encountered his estranged son, Nahlepenien, who would eventually become the first Nahnken and later the Nahnmwarki of U.

Rainbow over Nahnningi Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Nahnningi & Mall Islands

South of Temwen are Nahnningi (believed to be a man-made island from the Nan Madol era) and Mall islands. The latter has a stone tomb at the northern end. The Namwen Nahnningi Stingray Sanctuary lies northwest of the islands.

  • Visit the Islands page for more information about these locations.

Other Islands

Five islands are found northeast of Temwen at the edge of the massive reef shelf called Mad Pahra. Nahpali is littered with Japanese-era historical sites and has a couple of nice sandy beaches. Little Dekehmwahu also has a nice, secluded beach, but to get to it, you’ll have to paddle around Nahpali’s southern side. Na island’s nicest coasts are on the north side. The same is true of Dekehtik. Nahkapw is a little apart from the others with easy access to the best snorkeling in the area.

  • Visit the Islands page for more information about these locations.

Pahn Nahkapw & Kahnimweiso

The deep water between Nan Madol and Nahkapw at first appears to be a wide channel leading to the open ocean, but may in fact be something called a “blue hole.” It has been hypothesized that this trench is actually a collapsed portion of the reef shelf. Pohnpei oral histories speak of another stone city, called Kahnimweiso, that pre-dated Nan Madol and was said to lie where Pahn Nakapw is now. One theory proposes that the weight of the basalt constructions coupled with the undermining of the limestone reef shelf by freshwater run-off, could have caused a collapse and sent Kahnimweiso plummeting 65 meters to the bottom. When you see how the sandy shore at Nahkapw’s north end drops straight off into deep blue or experience the odd currents in the area, it’s not hard to believe that the site is special. To date, the theories have not been properly tested and Pahn Nahkapw has retained its secrets and its eerie feel.

Southeast wall of Peikapw, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Nan Madol

If coming from the south, enter the ruins through Dauen Moahk, the first mangrove channel encountered (high tide only). The first stops include Pahn Kadira and Kelepwel islets. From there, you can venture northeast up the canal to Peikapw, Idehd, Dorong, and Peneiring. Further north, notable sites include Kerian, Peikapw Sapwawas, Dau, Pahn Douwas, Pohn Douwas, Nan Douwas, and Konderek. On the return trip south, catch Lemenkau and adjacent Namwenkau (pool) and the huge boulder wall of Pahnwi at the southwest corner. The upper portion of Mweiden Kitti is silted in and nearly closed off by encroaching mangrove trees; it’s impassable even at high tide. All of the entrances on Madol Pah‘s southwest perimeter are now dead-ends, but provide nice sandy spots to picnic.

From the north, it’s easiest to enter Nan Madol at Dauen Nankieilmwahu between Temwen and Peniot islet — especially when surge and choppy seas in Pahn Nahkapw make the narrow gap at Nan Mwoluhsei too risky.

Paddling Distances Around Temwen Island

Starting Ending Distance (km) Distance (mi)
MERIP —- Temwen Causeway 0.59 km 0.37 mi
Temwen Causeway —- Pahn Kadira islet* 1.7 km 1.0 mi
Dauen Moahk —- Pahnwi islet 0.89 km 0.55 mi
Pahnwi islet —- Lemenkau islet* 0.58 km 0.36 mi
Lemenkau islet —- Dorong islet* 0.62 km 0.39 mi
Lemenkau islet —- Peinering islet* 0.39 km 0.25 mi
Peinering islet —- Kerian islet* 0.42 km 0.26 mi
Peinering islet —- Nan Douwas islet* 0.41 km 0.25 mi
MERIP —- Salong Point 2.2 km 1.37 mi
Salong Point —- Japanese Wharf 1.0 km 0.64 mi
Japanese Wharf —- Nan Douwas islet* 1.4 km 0.87 mi
Japanese Wharf —- Nahpali Island 2.63 km 1.63 mi
Nahpali Island —- Dekehmwahu Island 2.00 km 1.5 mi
Kerian islet —- Nahkapw Island 0.89 km 0.55 mi
Nahkapw Island —- Dekehtik Island 0.52 km 0.32 mi
Dekehtik Island —- Northern Na Island 2.9 km 1.8 mi
Northern Na Island —- Dekehmwahu Island 0.77 km 0.48 mi
Mweiden Kitti —- Nahnningi Island 0.69 km 0.43 mi
Nahnningi Island —- Mall Island 0.42 km 0.26 mi

*Silted-in estuary. This segment may be difficult or impossible to traverse at low tide.

Map Guides >> Temwen Vicinity >> Temwen Vicinity Paddling

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in birding, camping, cultural sites, historical sites, islands, paddling, prehistoric ruins, snorkeling, swimming & picnicking, temwen vicinity, world war sitesTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Paddling Around Central Madolenihmw

Hiking / TrekkingWorld War II FortificationsArchaeology Site / RuinBird-WatchingCampingSwimmingSnorkelingKayaking / CanoingPicnickingBeachesMarine Reserve

Dauen Sapwalap / Senipehn Mangrove Reserve

Dauen Sapwalap is the largest drainage in Madolenihmw, a wide, meandering channel that cuts through the mangrove forests from Kitamw and eventually empties into Madolenihmw Bay. Although the Lehdau River (Pillapen Lehdau) is probably the largest contributor to this major estuary, the two are not synonymous; the channel is also fed by three other watercourses, including the Kitamw Stream (Pilen Kitamw), Pwadapwad Stream (Pilen Pwadapwad), and River of Sekere Riau (Pillapen Sekere Riau). According to legend, a powerful demi-god named Lapongo — the same character involved in the story of Takaiuh peak — dug out the channel with his penis. The matriarch of the Lasialap Clan — a great eel responsible for the creation of Lipwentiak in Kitti and whose tail formed the great mountain in Nett, Pohnlehr — was also said to have dwelt in this channel for many years, terrorizing the local inhabitants.

During the 1889-1890 wars between the Spanish and Pohnpeians, which began in Ohwa and concluded in Kitamw, two contingents of Spanish troops were dispatched at the mouth of Dauen Sapwalap and attempted to move up both banks of the Pillapen Lehdau (Lehdau River) to reach a small half-finished fort built on a low hill by the Pohnpeian fighters. The first group of soldiers got terribly lost in the tangled forests and happened upon the fort only by mere chance. The second group was forced off-route by a seemingly supernatural flood and also ended up lost, camping overnight at Elieliwi before joining the fray. The assault cost the Spanish 21 men, and in the end the Pohnpeians merely withdrew and yielded a position that had meant little to them from the beginning.

In the last decade, the estuary became part of the Senipehn Mangrove Forest Reserve and afforded some environmental protections; tree-cutting, fishing, and gathering of other natural resources in the area is prohibited in most circumstances. Paddlers can explore the 2.6 km (1.62 mi) primary channel and its side passages by launching near the Lehdau River bridge, at the end of the road near Tahio, at the Madolenihmw “Ice Dock”, or at the MERIP boathouse.

  • Entering the mangrove reserve requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Takaiuh peak, Madolenihmw, Pohnpei Island, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Takaiuh Peak

While Sokehs Rock is the stand-out natural feature in the north, in Madolenihmw that title certainly goes to Takaiuh (“standing rock”), a majestic conical hill-island on the north side of the bay. Westerners called this feature “Sugarloaf” after the molded cones of sugar that were popular in Western Europe as early as 1470, but the local name and its story are much more interesting (see Madolenihmw Bay Area page for more).

Paddlers can get right up close to the iconic hill for a view from the water that is better than from anywhere on land. There’s also good fun to be had noodling around in the mangrove forests on the eastern shore (at high tide). A sweet spot to stop for a picnic lunch is the top of an exposed rocky rise 0.36 km (0.22 mi) northwest of the peak (no mangroves skirt this bit of the shore).

Pahn Dieinuh

Pahn Dieinuh, the southern point of the Dolopwail peninsula, is significant historically for the 1836 conflict that began there between the visiting British whaleship Falcon and two rival Pohnpeian chiefs — Luhk en Kesik ( the Nahnmwarki) and the Wasai, the first and second ranking men in the royal line, respectively. Things got ugly when the Nahnmwarki made a move to seize the ship and its cargo. When the ship attempted to flee, it ran up on the reef. The cargo was transferred to Nahpali Island and then stolen a month later by the Nahnmwarki‘s brother, Nahnawa. A battle ensued on Nahpali between Nahnawa‘s party and the whalers, ending in the deaths of the ship’s captain and three other sailors. The Wasai, who had been challenging the Nahnmwarki‘s authority for some time, seized this opportunity to rid the land of his enemy by joining the crews of other whaleships in hunting down both Nahnawa and the Nahnmwarki. Fighting continued for several days until the Nahnmwarki was shot and Nahnawa captured and hanged from the yardarm of the whaleship Lambton. Both bodies were buried at Pahn Dieinuh, and the Wasai assumed the position of the Nahnmwarki. There isn’t much of anything to see at Pahn Dieinuh now, but it’s a good spot for a break mid-route. The closest launch points are MERIP boathouse, the “Ice Dock”, and the Metipw launch.

Mwudokolos Island

In addition to the seven islands (Nahpali, Dekemwahu, Na, Dehketik, Nahkapw, Nahnningi, and Mall) found around Temwen, there are three small islands to the north that shouldn’t be missed. The first of these — Mwudokolos — is found a half-kilometer (0.33 mi) northeast of Metipw and easily accessed from the coral-dredged causeway/dock found there (ask at the nearest house for permission to launch). Archaeologist Arthur Saxe believed that the island was tied to Nan Madol in some way and that it might even be a man-made island, but Japanese archaeologists working on the island in recent years have found no hard evidence to support that idea. They did discover prehistoric stone structures and a house platform that dates to the Nahnmwarki Period of Nan Madol (post-1700). Glass beads, sherds, and clay pipes were also found, suggesting that Mwudokolos was occupied by foreign traders in the late 1800s. The island is privately owned, but unoccupied.

  • To obtain permission for day visits or overnight stays, call Sesuko Hadley at +691.320.2540.

Dahu Reirei Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Dahu Reirei Island

From Mwudokolos, paddlers can continue 1.8 km (1.13 mi) further north through the easternmost of two dredged reef channels to reach Dahu Reirei (“long channel”), a narrow, man-made islet with huts for picnickers and campers and lots of pleasant swimming and snorkeling. When we say this island is narrow, we mean narrow (10 meters wide). Unless you like being crammed together elbow-to-elbow, avoid the place on weekends and holidays. It’s also not a place to be on intensely hot days (there are no trees large enough to provide shade) or during bad weather (the island is hardly a meter above sea level at high tide). On partly-cloudy weekdays, however, it can be heavenly. The surrounding water is generally crystal-clear and the reefs, which consist mainly of varieties of staghorn coral, are surprisingly healthy and relatively well-populated with reef fish. Small thatched huts along the length of the strip can be rented for the day or overnight.

  • To make reservations for day visits or overnight stays and to arrange boat transport, call Joseph Helgenberger at +691.320.2229.

Lepin Dau (“Channel Island”)

The final island covered in this sector (it’s just off the edge of the Central Madolenihmw map, but appears on the U & Northern Madolenihmw map) is claimed by the same family as Dahu Reirei and has no official name, but as it lies adjacent to the primary channel every boat in the area uses to go from Areu and Ohwa to Madolenihmw Bay, it’s known as Lepin Dau or “Channel Island.” This island is larger and higher than Dahu Reirei and has some welcoming tree-cover (mostly pandanus). The channel on the west side is a nice spot to snorkel at slack tide, but at other times, the current can be so strong that snorkelers and swimmers run a strong risk of being swept away. A better spot for snorkeling is in the blue holes around the southeast side — well out of the path of the current. Here you can find beautiful coral grottoes, huge schools of needlefish, barracuda, cuttlefish, trumpetfish, angelfish, and parrotfish, an odd seasnake (the latter are venomous, but so passive that they pose little danger to snorkelers), and from time to time even eagle rays and small green turtles. It’s a fantastic picnic destination for paddlers.

  • You don’t really need to get permission to make day visits to “Channel Island,” but overnighters should call Joseph Helgenberger at +691.320.2229.

Nanwap Marine Protected Area

The reefs on the north side of Kepidauen Deleur make up the Nanwap Marine Protected Area (MPA), a marine reserve with excellent snorkeling and diving. The best place to snorkel is about 1.3 km east of Metipw in a protected reef hole, but watch for strong currents.

Paddling Distances Around Central Madolenihmw

Starting Ending Distance (km) Distance (mi)
“Ice Dock” —- Tahio* 3.12 km 1.94 mi
“Ice Dock” —- Sekeren Senipehn 2.5 km 1.6 mi
Sekeren Senipehn —- Dauen Wetiak 1.7 km 1.0 mi
Dauen Wetiak —- Dauen Sapwalap 1.3 km 0.8 mi
Dauen Sapwalap —- Pilen Kitamw (Kitamw Stream) Bridge 2.6 km 1.6 mi
“Ice Dock” —- Takaiuh Shore* 2.45 km 1.5 mi
“Ice Dock” —- Pahn Dieinuh* 2.6 km 1.62 mi
Takaiuh Shore* —- Diadi 3.44 km 2.1 mi
Japanese Wharf, Temwen Is. —- Diadi 0.99 km 0.61 mi
MERIP* —- Pahn Dieinuh 2.48 km 1.54 mi
MERIP* —- Salong Point, Temwen Is. 2.2 km 1.4 mi
Salong Point, Temwen Is. —- Japanese Wharf, Temwen Is. 1.0 km 0.64 mi
Japanese Wharf, Temwen Is. —- Nahpali Island 2.63 km 1.63 mi
Nahpali Island —- Metipw Launch 2.59 km 1.61 mi
Diadi —- Metipw Launch 2.8 km 1.75 mi
Kepidauen Deleur —- Nanwap Marine Protected Area (MPA) 1.24 km 0.77 mi
Metipw Launch —- Mwudokolos Is. Circumnavigation 1.4 km 0.9 mi
Metipw Launch —- Dahu Reirei Is. 1.86 km 1.2 mi
Dahu Reirei Is. —- “Channel Island” (see U Municipality & Northern Madolenihmw guide) 1.53 km 0.95 mi
Metipw Launch —- Pilen Semwei 2.61 km 1.62 mi

*Silted-in reef. This segment may be difficult or impossible to traverse at low tide.

Map Guides >> (Central) Madolenihmw >> Paddling Around Madolenihmw

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in birding, camping, central madolenihmw, cultural sites, hiking & trekking, historical sites, islands, paddling, prehistoric ruins, snorkeling, swimming & picnickingTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Mwudokolos Island

Mwudokolos is found a half-kilometer (0.33 mi) northeast of Metipw and easily accessed from the coral-dredged causeway/dock found there (ask at the nearest house for permission to launch if you’re paddling out). The privately owned, but uninhabited, island has prehistoric stone structures that date to the Nahnmwarki Period of Nan Madol (post-1700). Glass beads, sherds, and clay pipes have also been found there by archaeologists, suggesting that Mwudokolos was occupied by foreign traders in the late 1800s. There’s some nice swimming and snorkeling northeast of the island.

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Mwudokolos Island

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in camping, central madolenihmw, historical sites, islands, paddling, snorkeling, swimming & picnickingTagged , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Lepin Dau Island

This island is claimed by the same family as Dahu Reirei and has no true name, but as it lies adjacent to the primary channel every boat in the area uses to go from Areu and Ohwa to Madolenihmw Bay, it’s known by most people as Lepin Dau (or sometimes “Channel Island”). Lepin Dau is larger and higher than Dahu Reirei and has some welcoming tree-cover. The reef pass on the west side is a nice spot to snorkel at slack tide, but at other times, the current can be so strong that snorkelers and swimmers run a strong risk of being swept away. A better spot for snorkeling is in the blue holes around the southeast side — well out of the path of the current. Here you can find beautiful coral grottoes, schools of needlefish, barracuda, cuttlefish, trumpetfish, angelfish, and parrotfish, an odd seasnake (the latter are venomous, but so passive that they pose little danger to snorkelers), and from time to time even eagle rays and small green turtles.

  • To obtain permission for overnight stays or to arrange boat transport from Ninleu, call +691.924.2229.

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Lepin Dau Island

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in camping, islands, paddling, snorkeling, swimming & picnicking, u & northern madolenihmwTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
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