caves – Pohnpei Eco-Adventure Guide

Sapwtik Island

Sapwtik, which means “small land,” is a tiny volcanic island located directly north of Kolonia and 0.5 km northwest of Lenger. Seen in profile, the island resembles a large submarine, leading some locals to nickname it “Submarine Island.” Sapwtik is jointly-owned by the Eschiet family, which has some small houses at the eastern end of island, and their in-laws, the Adams family. During the 1880s, Sapwtik was purchased by Jan Stanisław Kubary, a Polish naturalist and ethnographer, along with a large piece of land east of what is now Kolonia — a place called Mpwoampw. In 1896, after returning from an extended absence and finding his homestead in ruins and his claims on the properties questioned by the Spanish authorities, Kubary committed suicide. Mpwoampw and Sapwtik were then purchased by Dominique Escheit, a Belgian trader who had operated in the Marshall Islands before coming to Pohnpei. Between 1914 and 1945, the Japanese were in charge and a great deal of land was seized by the military for defensive purposes — including Sapwtik. Like its neighbor, Lenger, Sapwtik was fortified in the late 1930s in preparation for an Allied invasion that never came. The primary features are found on the low hilltop and at the western terminus.

Sapwtik Island Attractions

Japanese Wharf

Visitors to Sapwtik will want to make their first stop at the Japanese Wharf, a 296 meter-long (324 yd) basalt structure that juts out from the island’s southwest coast all the way to the edge of the reef. With the exception of the very end, which has sustained some damage from waves, the wharf is in excellent condition almost 80 years after it was built — a testament to the quality of Japanese construction during the colonial period (and the use of the highly stable tanizumi, or herringbone, style of stonework). The wharf connects with the coastal road, also built by the Japanese, which skirts the mangroves from one end of the island to the other. The road is built above a stone retaining wall that stabilizes it against the swampy mangrove environment. Retaining walls also run along the opposite edge to prevent erosion from the steep hillside above.

Snorkeling & Swimming

All the ocean areas around Sapwtik belong to the Sapwtik Marine Protected Area, a sanctuary protected by legislation. The snorkeling off the reef walls at the end of the wharf is quite nice with generally good visibility and lots of fish. Just start at the wharf and follow the reef wall in either direction (the further from the island, the better it gets). The best place to swim is also right off the end of the wharf. Shallow areas on either sides of the wharf are silty.

A large banyan tree forms the flag of the submarine at Sapwtik Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Command Center & Barracks

The central hill is most easily accessed from the maintained Japanese coastal road. About 60 meters east of the wharf, hikers can cut off the road and up the slope (another 60 m) to reach the summit. The Adam’s family keeps the hill extremely tidy, cutting the grass, planting flowers, and keeping the historical features free of vines and brush. The place has a manicured, park-like feel and a stunning view of everything to the south. One of the best preserved yabane-tanizumi style rock walls on Pohnpei runs the length of the hilltop on the south side with two breaks, where earthen ramps lead up to the top. Two foundations were likely a command center and a barracks for personnel stationed on the island. The northern foundation is the largest and has seven sets of steps leading up to where the floor once was. The structure itself would have been wooden, while only the support posts and the lower parts of the walls were concrete. Two large concrete cisterns are connected to the two foundations (check out the bullet holes from Allied strafing). At the north end of the complex, the hill road begins, cutting right through the hill and running all the way to the gun batteries at the northwestern end of the island. Some of the road is currently impassable due to piles of felled trees and branches, but it’s impressive none the less.

To visit the gun batteries, it’s best to return to the coastal road and hike northwest all the way to the end. The road is well-kept and easy to follow.

Magazine Complex / Shell Storage

From the cut-off point for the hilltop, it’s about 150 m (164 yd) along the road to the first point of interest, a high-walled magazine complex for heavy ordnance similar to the one at the coastal gun battery on Lenger. The surrounding basalt rock wall (also tanizumi style) runs north and then curves sharply back to the south to enclose the foundation of the magazine structure, which is about 6 meters long. On the inside of the enclosure, the walls are steeply sloped. There is no roof, but the entire feature may have been covered with canvas and camouflaged during war-time. The entrance is narrow — less than 2 meters wide — and curved.

Coastal Gun Battery

About 12 meters northwest of the magazine is the first of four 75 mm field gun stations. These are similar to the structures on Lenger, though the Sapwtik sites are more primitive with less concrete and more earthen features. No guns remain, and two of the sites may have been decoys that never had guns installed. Guns would have protected the primary entrance to Kolonia at Pweitik Passage (Kepidauen Pweitik) to the northwest. A footpath continues north past the gun emplacements and then turns southeast to follow the contour of the hill. Along this are a few stone rifle pits or machine gun emplacements. Old Japanese beer bottles litter the forest.

NOTE: The ruins of a searchlight and a tunnel, cutting completely through part of the central hill, also exist on Sapwtik, but we did not have the opportunity to locate them during our brief period of fieldwork on the island. If you’re interested in seeing these features, contact Richie Adams at (+691.320.5735). The Pacific Wrecks website has photos of both.

To obtain permission to visit, call Richie Adams (Adam’s Brothers Corporation) at +691.320.5735 or call Ace Hardware’s office at +691.320.2723.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The Sapwtik Island information would not exist without the cooperation of the Adams family.

Eco-Adventure Map Guides >> Lenger Island >> Sapwtik Island Attractions

By pni-surfclubPosted on May 15, 2021June 11, 2021Posted in caves, hiking & trekking, historical sites, islands, lenger & sapwtik islands, paddling, snorkeling, swimming & picnicking, world war sitesTagged caves, fsm, historical sites, island, islands, japanese historical sites, lagoon, micronesia, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, sapwtik island, snorkeling, swimming, tunnels, world war sites

Nahnalaud — the Big Mountain

The Big Mountain

The highest mountain in the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM) is called Nahnalaud (which means “big mountain”) and is located almost in the exact middle of Pohnpei Island. Pohnpeians consider the mountain sacred and regard it with respect and reverence, though most people have never been there because of the long, difficult hike involved. Local deer hunters and upland sakau farmers are the most frequent visitors to the highland region. A limited number of foreigners also attempt the summit.

In reality, Nahnalaud is not a single mountain but rather the highest peak in Pohnpei’s contiguous central mountain system, which separates the five chiefdoms. The primary central ridge runs from west to east and then curves north toward U not far beyond Nahnalaud. Additionally, a secondary ridge runs south, leading to Pohnpei’s second highest peak, Ngihneni, and then turning sharply to the west. The two ridges fence in the long, narrow Nanmeir Valley — the most remote region on the island.

The exact elevation at the Nahnalaud summit is a matter of debate as the survey methods used in the 1970s to map the island have a significant margin of error. The official number is 772 meters (2,533 ft), but the peak may actually be higher than that — likely close to 780 m. Ngihneni (“spirit’s tooth”) is nearly the same elevation (a difference of a few meters), which has generated a long-running dispute about which is actually the highest point. Nett, Kitti, and Madolenihmw have also argued about which chiefdom can claim Nahnalaud, but according to the municipal boundary lines on the 1983 USGS map, each of these municipalities has a piece of the peak.

Hikers should be careful not to underestimate the mountain. Though the distance is not extreme, the terrain is. Experienced trekkers will find all of the approaches challenging merely because of the very rugged nature of Pohnpei’s interior mountains. The concept of switchbacks is little known on Pohnpei; trails are rough, rocky, and often go straight up the slope. Hikers who plan to tackle Nahnalaud should be prepared to walk along narrow ridges with steep slopes on either side; cross jumbles of broken, slippery rocks; ford medium-sized rivers (particularly on the Nett and Madolenihmw routes); walk in shallow, rocky riverbeds; ascend and descend slopes of 50 degrees or steeper; wade through muddy mires; cross slick logs; and push through high grass or ferns.

Despite the difficulty in getting to the top, the trip is well worth it. Those who have never visited a cloud forest before will be awed by the otherworldly beauty of the ridge, a perpetually dripping wonderland of stunted, hoary trees, air plants, and bryophytic growth. Virtually every surface is covered with a thick layer of spongy golden moss and the ground is composed of layer upon layer of damp, decayed matter. The area, which never dries out, gets at least 8.3 meters (325 in) of rain every year and is shrouded in thick fog much of the time, making clear views from the summit a rare occurrence.

Pehleng Approach (Western Kitti)

This well-defined trail up to the primary ridge and eventually to Nahnalaud was first promoted in 2013 by a local business calling itself Pohnpei Trailways. The idea was that this trail, starting in Pehleng, could be hiked by tourists without the assistance of a local guide. We strongly recommend that you do NOT do it that way. In fact, we think it’s a very a bad idea. Though at the time of writing (2014) the entire length of the trail was marked with pink flagging tied to tree branches, there is still plenty of potential for visitors to go astray. Furthermore, accidents or injuries without a local guide present could result in disaster. Remember that Pohnpei has no search and rescue service.

The true ascent begins after passing through a cluster of houses (ask permission) 0.95 km beyond the trailhead. After that, the trail is wide and true as it climbs steadily for 1.45 km (20% slope average) through the forest to the open fern meadow atop Dolen Salapwuk (510 m), where there are some good views in clear weather. The trail then re-enters the forest and begins to climb again for 4.6 km (13% slope average), narrowing as it comes up to the main ridge (696 m). Just before Shelter 1 (Dolmweir), there’s a 315 meter-long segment that is less than a meter wide with precipitous slopes on both sides; we’ve dubbed it the “Knife Edge.”

Shelter 1 is located at Dolmweir, where an appendage of the mountain thrusts north from the main ridge. There is no flowing water nearby. The privy is located 22 m to the north. After Shelter 1, the trail descends steeply by about 62 m on the south side of the ridge and skirts the base of a rocky cliff before climbing back to the ridge-top. From there it goes up and down for 2.94 km before reaching Mountain Shelter 2 roughly 5 minutes below the Nahnalaud summit.

Plan for 5-7 hours from the trailhead to Shelter 1 and 3-4 hours from there to the summit.

NOTE: As of February 2014, the pandanus-thatch roofs of the two ridge shelters were in very bad shape, heavily deteriorated and leaky. Plan accordingly.

The Origin of the Yap Banana

In the westward land of Sapani, a woman named Lienpwel (“woman of earth”) had two daughters, Lisoumokaiap and Lisoumokalang. The daughters decided to take a canoe and look for new land in the east and brought with them some “underworld yams”, banana shoots, and a stone called the Stone of Sahwar. The sisters eventually landed at a place in what is now Pwoaipwoai district (at that time the island was smaller and Pwoaipwoai lay near the coast). There they placed the stone and planted the yams. The stone was highly reflective, and when the sun would hit it, it would shine brightly (hence the name Sahwar, which means “shining” or “flashing”).

The younger of the two sisters, Lisoumokalang, eventually returned home to Sapani. On the way she visited the islands of Yap and propagated a new type of banana, which thrived and became the tallest of all banana varieties. Some time later, a Pohnpeian man who lived in a place called Loangen Kitti was looking west toward the sunset and he saw the tall banana plant in the distance. The ripe fruit were attracting many birds, so he found two starlings – one a common Micronesian starling (sioahk) and the other a Pohnpei mountain starling (sie) – and he took them up to a high mountain in Pehleng. The Micronesian starling was a lazy flier, but the mountain starling was clever and efficient. He sent both flying toward Yap. The Micronesian starling was distracted on the way and diverted from its course. Only the Pohnpei mountain starling reached its destination. It joined the other birds in eating the bananas, and while it did so, a seed became lodged in its feathers. Both birds eventually flew back to Pohnpei and landed at the peak of Pekenuht (which, appropriately, means “banana feces”). The seed carried by the mountain starling fell to the ground and propagated utin iap (the Yap banana).

Enipein Powe Approach (Kitti)

This route begins at the end of an unpaved road in Enipein Powe and climbs gradually on a well-defined footpath up an out-thrust from the southern ridge. At the top, the trail passes through a saddle between Nahnan Pwoaipwoai and Dolen Uhd, then descends slightly along the inside of the ridge slope, finally arriving at a massive overhanging rock known by local guides as “the cave.” The cave has nice views through the trees of the Nanmeir Valley at the Lehnmesi River source below. You can also see Nahnalaud to the northwest and make a guess at the direction of Ngihneni to the east. The cave is an excellent place to camp with a cushioned fern-lined floor (that stays dry in wet weather) and usually some dry firewood stowed by hunters in the vicinity (replace what you use).

From the cave, the trail continues along the inner slope below Ngihneni, crosses several small streams, and then climbs steeply (20% slope average) to the top of the main ridge. At this point it’s just a short walk west along the ridge path to the first open viewpoint near a USGS benchmark. The spot people typically consider to be the summit is 5-10 minutes further, and Shelter 2 is just below that.

Plan for 6-8 hours from the trailhead to the cave and 90 minutes to 3 hours from there to the summit.

Salapwuk Approach (Kitti)

There are many ways to Nahnalaud from Salapwuk but they all begin at the end of the road beyond Salapwuk Elementary School. The early part of the hike uses the same trail as the Six Waterfalls, but at the place where one would turn toward the river to encounter Falls #1 (Pahnairlap), one instead follows a trail going northeast. This trail stays north of the river, crossing above Iro, Nan Emp, and Lipwentiak waterfalls. The latter is the most spectacular, located where the river gets funneled into a narrow channel and makes a hairpin turn. According to legend, this feature of the river was created when the matriarch of the Great Eel Clan encountered an eel hunter and writhed violently in horror at the sight of the dead eels he was carrying. Small pools above the falls are home to Pohnpei’s endemic freshwater shrimp, which the guides might be willing to catch for dinner. After that, the trail only meets the river again twice, where it cuts through a wide loop in the watercourse. It then turns north and climbs 362 meters in elevation to the primary ridge, not far from the summit.

Nanipil Approach (Nett)

Though slightly shorter, the Nanipil approach to Nahnalaud is certainly challenging. It’s significantly steeper than the other routes (except Salapwuk) and the trail is not well-maintained once you reach the rear of the valley. The hike starts at the house next to the hydroelectric building at the end of Nanipil River Road. Immediately behind the house, hikers must cross a river and then shortly after that a small stream. An easy segment follows with a well-defined residential path leading to the last house in this part of the valley (1.39 km), where an old man lives alone.

Past the house, the route continues on a fairly well-defined path that crosses the river several times (these crossings can be tricky if there has been a lot of recent rain). In a few places, you have to walk in the river itself, which can be quite difficult given the slickness of the rocks. Finally, after 2.94 km (3% slope average), the trail begins to climb out of the valley on the east side of the river and follows a sub-ridge up from there (3.16 km with a 22% slope average).

The climb has several pitches with small, flat rest areas in between. The first stop has a conspicuous tree of gigantic proportions entwined with vines almost as massive. The second stop is frequently used as a camp site by hunters and is one of the few places on the mountain with mobile phone reception. The final segment leading to the primary ridge is steep and often muddy. In places it follows the natural pathway of small streamlets (keep an eye out for a small waterfall high up on the slope). Once reaching the main ridge (754 m elevation), it’s an easy 0.56 km walk east to Shelter 2, a typical nahs-style thatched hut that can sleep ten or so.

NOTE: As of February 2014, a large part of the roof of this shelter had rotted away, leaving the central part of the hut exposed to the elements.

Nankepinmerepw Approach (Madolenihmw)

This route passes through the gorgeous valley of Nankepinmerepw, following the upper tributaries of the Nan Riohk Stream and eventually arriving north of Nahnalaud on an arm of the primary mountain system.

The hike begins at a rutted turn-off from the well-graded (but unpaved) road to Pahn Sile Waterfall, leads to a metal footbridge over the Senipehn River — the only bridge like it on the island — and connects with a path on the far side. From there, the trail meanders northwest not far from the Nan Riohk and more or less parallel to it.

The first kilometer or so cuts through cultivated lands. Then it begins to follow the water more closely as it passes into the wilder riverine forests. There are at least nine major stream crossings in this next segment, some of which may be difficult or impossible if there has been a lot of recent rain. Above the last major Nan Riohk tributary, where the name of the stream changes to Nankepinmerepw, hikers take to the stream bed itself, which is certainly the most challenging aspect of the route (13% slope average). The algae-slimed rocks are slick and dangerous and hikers may find that they have to go very slow and use both hands to avoid disastrous slips; it would be easy to snap an ankle or shatter a kneecap in this place. Despite the rough terrain, the scenery in this narrow valley, often fenced on both sides by high rocky walls, is terrific. At times, the trail passes along the tops of vertical prismatic basalt columns.

The first few points of interest are beautiful pools that will tempt any overheated hiker — and why resist? A bit further is a small waterfall near a prismatic basalt quarry site for Nan Madol. Abandoned prisms can be found lying in the stream bed in several places — the largest just below the falls. How exactly prisms were hauled down to the coast from this site is anyone’s guess. After a short, steep section (22% slope average), the valley terminates at a huge “horsetail” waterfall that the route crosses above (you can scramble down the eastern slope without too much difficulty for a better view from the side). The shallow pools above the falls are also an excellent place for a look at Pohnpei’s native crayfish.

Past the big waterfall, the stream narrows until it reaches a third waterfall — this one short and wide, falling over a straight lip (usually called a “block falls” or “sheet falls”) — and then diminishes to a trickle. From this point, the hike climbs west (29% slope average) and then south again as it follows the ridgeline (18% slope average) toward the Nahnalaud summit.

Download FREE BONUS INSET MAP 7 (Nankepinmerepw) here

How Long Will It Take?

Though it is possible to hike up and down Nahnalaud in one day, as we did during one of the many data-gathering excursions, we don’t recommend that you put yourself through that kind of torture. Hiking to Nahnalaud should be considered a 2-day affair with one night spent either at the cave, one of the mountain shelters, or somewhere else on the ridge. Inexperienced or out-of-shape hikers may need three days or more.

Hiring a Local Guide

All of the routes up to Nahnalaud require an experienced local guide.

You should offer your guide no less than $160 if there are five or less in your group and at least $220 if there are more than five (plus tips). If you do the math, you’ll see that this is quite reasonable. With five people, each hiker pays just $32 plus tips — a super bargain. If you can’t assemble a group, you’ll still only pay $80 per person with two hikers, which is less than you’d pay for two dives at virtually any SCUBA company in the world (and this is two days and one night). Obviously, if you plan to take a slower pace and do the hike over three or more days, you’ll need to pay your guide more.

Your guide is your lifeline; you will depend on him to keep you safe and on the right track throughout the duration of your hike. Guides provide other useful services as well, such as making campfires in damp weather. If you expect your guide to cook meals for the group or carry any gear for you, he should be paid extra. Agree on a price beforehand.

Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nahnalaud.

Map Guides >> The Interior Highlands >> Nahnalaud

By pni-surfclubPosted on September 15, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in birding, camping, caves, central madolenihmw, greater nett, hiking & trekking, interior highlands, southern kitti, western kittiTagged birding, camping, caves, cloud forest, enpein powe, fsm, hiking, interior, islands, micronesia, mountain, nahnalaud, nanipil, nankepinmerepw, oceania, pacific, pehleng, pohnpei, ponape, rainforest, salapwuk, the hunter's cave, trails, waterfalls

Timwen Men, Dolakapw & Pohn Tehnmei

North Madolenihmw Hikes

The northernmost section of Madolenihmw is separated from the rest of the municipality by a range of low mountains that run east-west from Mesihsou to Alohkapw. This range was fortified by the Japanese army during World War II because it was easily accessible and commanded excellent views of lands both to the north and the south. The hills are riddled with tunnels and man-made caves, and a ridge path runs from the east end and connects with the primary mountain system in the central part of the island. There was a time when Japanese soldiers could travel from Mesihsou all the way to Kupwuriso without ever leaving the mountains. Small 75-80 mm guns were also installed at hidden spots among the hills.

There are many potential hikes one could do in these interesting mountains, but we’ve chosen to focus on three routes leading to small peaks along the ridge: Timwen Men, Dolakapw, and Pohn Tehnmei. All three cross private land.

Timwen Men

The name of this small peak at the western end of the ridge means “beak of the bird,” a reference to the many brown noddies that can be seen flying around the summit. The hike begins at the houses near the end of the road, belonging to the extended family of Eiber Rosario, and passes through the family’s sakau plantation on the slope. Any semblance of a trail vanishes at the foot of the hill, where you have to clamber up the steep, muddy hillside. At the top, there’s an extensive network of Japanese defensive trenches. The Japanese ridge path goes east as far as Mesihsou and west to Kupwuriso, but the problem with hiking the entire distance in one go is that the mountain range is broken up into a number of private parcels owned by different (and sometimes competing) families. The trail is easy to follow as it goes west toward the Timwen Men summit (331 m / 1,086 ft). Along the way, you’ll pass several impressive tunnels that bore into the hill and connect with the trench system. Two circular pits seem to have been either small caliber gun stations (possibly 80 mm) or rifle positions. No guns are found there now. The summit is a little overgrown, but still affords nice views of the valley.

The hike takes about 3 hours round-trip.

To arrange for a guide, ask for the colorful Eiber Rosario at the houses near the end of the road. You may also be able to locate Eiber by calling his son-in-law, Colton, at +691.923.6941. Offer $20.

Dolakapw (Edienleng)

This hike starts at the main road opposite a small store, passes through a group of houses, and follows a well-traveled footpath, climbing steadily but never steeply to Dolakapw (“new hill”), a peak in Edienleng. The trail ends at a plantation of sakau and other agroforestry crops. From there the route curves around the south side of the hill (with views of the Sapwalap plain), where two large Japanese tunnels burrow into the slope. The lower one is partially collapsed, the steel rails for a mining car still jutting out of the hole. The roof here is unstable, so it would be unwise to venture inside. The tunnel is about 15 meters long. The second tunnel, a little higher up the hill, is in better shape with U-shaped steel supports holding up the rocky roof. Bats and Caroline Islands swiftlets nest at the rear. The landowner believes that the Japanese intended to connect the two tunnels, but abandoned the project once the Allied bombing campaign began. The semi-open Dolakapw summit (305 m / 1,001 ft) is just above.

The hike takes about 3 hours round-trip.

To find a guide, visit the small store on the coastal side of the road and ask for Isaac Fred. Offer $20.

Pohn Tehnmei

This short, strenuous hike begins at the home of brothers Atsent and Romeo Welcher at the end of an intermittently paved road west of Nan Pailong. There isn’t much of a trail; the route just goes straight up the slope behind the house along an eroded track used to drag huge sakau pounding stones, called peitehl, down from the mountaintop. The first thing encountered at the top is the quarry site itself — a collection of pits from which the stones have been dug. There was a time when people came from all over the island to get peitehl at this spot. Currently, the state forbids the practice, but you may get the distinct impression that it’s still going on nonetheless. Not far from the top of the hill, a gigantic peitehl marks the spot where the brothers Olsihpa and Olsohpa looked down and first laid eyes on Sounahleng, the place where they would eventually begin the building of Nan Madol (there’s no view from here now, unfortunately). Also, a trio of large stones slightly to the west are said to have been formed from the bodies of a man, his wife, and their child. From there you can continue west along the ridge to the Pohn Tehnmei summit (347 m / 1,138 ft). The tree cover on the ridge, however, obscures any good views of the lowlands.

Plan for about 2 to 3 hours round-trip for this adventure.

Japanese Tunnel

At the base of the hill on the Welcher farmstead is a 14 meter-long curving Japanese tunnel. Mining car rails lie along the floor, and though the mouth of the cave is partially collapsed, the rest is supported by U-shaped steel supports. You can enter carefully and walk to the end (bring a headlamp or flashlight and expect some bats).

Either Atsent or Romeo Welcher (+691.925.8075) can be hired as guides, though Romeo’s English is better. If you can’t get them by phone, just go to the house and ask one of them to take you up. Offer $20.

Map Guides >> U & Northern Madolenihmw >> North Madolenihmw Hikes

By pni-surfclubPosted on April 3, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in caves, hiking & trekking, historical sites, u & northern madolenihmw, world war sitesTagged caves, dolakapw, fsm, hiking, historical sites, islands, japanese historical sites, madolenihmw, micronesia, oceania, pacific, pohn tehnmei, pohnpei, ponape, timwen men, trails, trenches, tunnels, world war sites

Nan Koropwung Cliff & Caverns

Anyone who takes a good look at the mountains on the eastern border of Nett will note a dark patch of naked basalt amid the otherwise unvarying green of the steep hillsides. This is the cliff-wall and caverns of Nan Koropwung. The trail to this spectacular and little-known site begins at the end of the unpaved but well-graded road in Paremkep and meanders up the heavily-wooded slope with some rather steep and brushy sections. Eventually, one comes to a towering wall of prismatic basalt columns overrun by a waterfall, which can be dramatic after heavy rain, but is most often thin and misty. Below the falls, the bare rock is in the process of decomposition, smooth and crumbly.

The first 164 m / 180 yd (12% slope avg) from the trailhead brings hikers to a small sakau hut in the woods. The narrow stream crosses the path 57 m (62 yd) further (16% slope avg). After that, the path fades into obscurity and it’s a challenging 489 m (0.3 mi) bush-whack scramble to the cliff and waterfall (47% slope avg). That’s not the end, however, by a long shot. If you pick your way across the rocks under the falls and along the slope for about 80 m (87 yd), you’ll come to the first cave of three. Partially hidden by a curtain of vines, this cave is well-protected from the elements and makes a good campsite. There are great views of Nett and Kolonia and some flat, dry ground.

About 130 m (142 yd) further is a second cave — this one forming a low, tunnel-like passage parallel to the hillside. Swiftlets nest on the roof and their guano covers the floor. Scramble through and you find yourself in the final cave, which is like a bay window looking out over the serene landscapes of Nett and eastern Sokehs. There’s really nothing like this spot on the island. Take care, however — the cavern opens onto a sheer (certainly fatal) drop to the valley below.

Plan for 3-6 hours for this hike.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nan Koropwung. Offer $25-37.00 for a group of five or less.

Map Guides >> Nett & Western U >> Nan Koropwung Cliff & Caverns

By pni-surfclubPosted on March 6, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in birding, camping, caves, greater nett, hiking & trekking, waterfallsTagged birding, caves, cliff, fsm, hiking, islands, micronesia, nan koropwung, nett, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, trails

Nan Kiepw & Na Malek

Nan Kiepw

Nan Kiepw, which means “in the lilies,” is a hillside overshadowed by Dolmweir peak. A Pohnpeian myth tells of a Yapese magician, named Sou Iap, who voyaged to Pohnpei and was responsible for the creation of Sokehs Rock). One of Sou Iap‘s companions, Souliken And, noticed a girl collecting clams on a reef north of Sokehs Island, and thinking her very attractive, chased her deep into Nett, carrying an ihd leaf with him. On the hillside below Dolmweir peak, Souliken And lost his leaf and named the place after a species of white lily he saw there.

During the Sokehs Rebellion in 1910, Pohnpeian rebels fleeing from German and Melanesian troops briefly took refuge at Nan Kiepw, rebuilding some earthen fortifications from the Spanish Period and repelling a small attack.

Today, Nan Kiepw maintains a pristine beauty that betrays no sign of past violence. A tributary of the Nanipil River (Pillapen Nanipil) runs through the area, forming a wide gentle cascade, some small pools (though none big enough for swimming), and a “horsetail” waterfall before winding into the valley. Upstream is a basalt outcropping — really a great boulder — that forms an overhang where a few people can comfortably camp out of wind and rain. Huge ivory nut trees, red sandlewood, and a variety of hardwoods dominate the lush native forest, and there are many unusual varieties of fungi to be seen.

The Origin of the Ivory Nut Palm

On the fourth voyage to Pohnpei after its founding, a man came named Mederiap, bringing with him the ivory nut palm and propagating it on the island. Prior to this time people had mostly lived in caves, because they had nothing to use for roofing material, but ever afterward, the fronds of the ivory nut palm were woven together to produce roof thatch for houses.

The moderately challenging trail begins behind a house near the Nett hydroelectic building at the end of the Nanipil River Road (the same trailhead for Nahnalaud). Hikers cross the Nanipil River directly and walk along a well-maintained footpath for 0.99 km / 0.61 mi (5% slope avg) before coming to the first major branch. The left (east) branch leads on toward Nahnalaud, while the right (west) branch heads to Nan Kiepw. From this point it’s 1.4 km / 0.87 mi (14% slope avg) to the last residence along the trail at 265 meters of elevation, and then another 1.8 km (1.12 mi) to the waterfall. This last segment has two little ascents with slope averages of about 20% and 26% and a more moderate bit in between (11% slope avg). Sakau (kava) plantations are found on both sides of the trail much of the way. Hikers should take care to avoid damaging these valuable plants.

Adenanthera pavonina (Red Sandlewood), Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Crab’s Eye Vs. Red Sandlewood: What to Know and Why it Matters

Two species of trees found both in inhabited areas and in the upland forests of Pohnpei produce small brilliant red seeds about the size of popcorn kernels. These can be seen scattered across the forest floor and often on the trail leading to Nan Kiepw. Red seeds with a single black dot on them belong to Abrus precatorius (Crab’s Eye Seed or John Crow Bead), while solid red seeds come from Adenanthera pavonina (Red sandlewood). The first type of seed (with the black dot) contains a compound, called abrin, that is 75 times more toxic than ricin and can be fatal if ingested; the fatal dose is about 0.1 mg for an adult of roughly 68 kg (150 lbs). Symptoms of poisoning include nausea, vomiting, convulsions, liver failure, and death after several days. The second type of seed (all red) is harmless when cooked and is sometimes eaten as a snack by Pohnpeian children. Strangely, the same Pohnpeian name — kaikes — is used to identify the two species of trees. Both Abrus precatorius and Adenanthera pavonina originate on the Indian subcontinent. Seeds are sometimes used to make necklaces and other jewelry.

Na Malek

Na Malek (“his chickens”) is a rock overhang and cave — located in the part of upland Nett once known as Nansokele — said in myth to have been the home of the demon Taimuan. The site, which has excellent views of the valley, Dolen Eirike, and Dol Rakied, is reached via a steep loop of path (0.61 km / 0.38 mi with a 42% slope average) that branches off from the Nan Kiepw trail. The overhang is large enough to provide a protected camping spot, and the elevated cave is bone-dry, flat-floored, and suitable for sleeping. Water running off the rock can be filtered for drinking. This is a relaxing and beautiful place to watch birds, including the Grey White-eye and rare Long-billed White-eye.

Plan for 8 hours for both Nan Kiepw and Na Malek.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nan Kiepw. Offer $50.00 for a group of five or less.

The Tale of Taimuan

A well-known Pohnpeian myth states that Na Malek was the the home of a hideous old demon, named Taimuan, and his sister, Litapinmalekelek. Taimuan had a hankering for human flesh and was, in particular, interested in the beautiful daughter of the Saudeleur — the supreme ruler that reigned from Nan Madol. Deciding that he wished to devour the girl, Taimuan set out for Nan Madol, transforming himself into a handsome young man along the way and leaving his old parts at different points in the mangroves — his white hair, swollen legs, swollen testicles, sagging eyelids, etc. When Taimuan arrived at Nan Madol and presented himself to the Saudeleur, both the girl — who was called Kisin Ntamwahu (“a little bit of good blood”) — and her father were impressed with the young suitor. Kisin Ntamwahu fell for Taimuan and begged her father to let them marry. Soon the two were married and given a home on Pahn Kadira.

After residing at Pahn Kadira for a while, however, Taimuan obtained permission from the Saudeleur to take Kisin Ntamwahu back to Na Malek. On the way, he picked up all his old parts from the mangroves and was restored to his prior appearance. Kisin Ntamwahu realized she had been tricked, but Taimuan carried her away against her will and confined the girl inside the cave at Na Malek. Then he climbed to the top of the mountains to invite all the other demons in the area to join him in feasting on the girl. While he was away, his sister, Litapinmalekelek, discovered Kisin Ntamwahu and felt sorry for her. She began to dig the girl out of her prison and encouraged Kisin Ntamwahu to turn herself into an ant, in order to escape, and flee into the forest. She warned the girl not to pass any plants without greeting them politely. As Kisin Ntamwahu ran, she greeted all the plants, big and small. All except one. Feeling a sudden need to urinate, she relieved herself in the forest and didn’t realize she’d done so on a plant called kampanial.

When Taimuan found that Kisin Ntamwahu was gone, he confronted Litapinmalekelek, but she claimed to know nothing. In a rage, Taimuan showered his sister with obscenities (specifically, he shouted, “Your vagina! My penis!” — a highly offensive reference to an act of incest) and then took off into the forest to catch Kisin Ntamwahu. He questioned each plant he passed, but none would tell him anything until he came upon the kampanial, which told Taimuan which way Kisin Ntamwahu had gone. Shortly thereafter, Taimuan met two worms on the path. He asked them where the girl had gone and they promised they would tell him if he pulled down his eyelids. He did so, and the worms threw dirt in his eyes. When Taimuan tried to wash his eyes out in a nearby streamlet, the worms muddied the water upstream, causing him to go blind and eventually die.

Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nan Kiepw.

Map Guides >> Nett & Western U >> Nan Kiepw & Na Malek

By pni-surfclubPosted on March 4, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in birding, camping, caves, greater nett, hiking & trekking, waterfallsTagged birding, camping, caves, fsm, hiking, kiepw waterfall, micronesia, na malek, na malek cave, nan kiepw, nett, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, taimuan, trails, waterfalls

Lou Rahn Cave & Waterfall

Tucked away in the little-seen Nett hinterlands is one of Pohnpei’s most beautiful hiking destinations. Uluhlen Lou Rahn, a fence-like ridge, extends northwest from the place where the mountains of U meet those of Nett, hiding from view the verdant valley of the Pwong Stream (Pilen Pwong). Cutting through this gorge from its source below Dolen Nahnsapwe, the stream spills over a high cliff to form a thundering waterfall next to a large cave with a view of the misty valley floor. Though there is no quick way down to the bottom of the waterfall from the cave (you can backtrack a ways and make your way down the slope to the stream), there is a gorgeous pool for swimming just up-stream with cool, crystal-clear water.

The trail to the site begins off the unpaved but well-graded road in Paremkep and sees plenty of traffic from sakau farmers and residents on the first 0.6 km (0.37 mi) leading toward the spur (12% slope avg). Once it reaches the ridge, it cuts east and passes along Lou Rahn’s inside slope rather than following the ridgeline (0.92 km / 0.57 mi, 19% slope avg). The hardest aspect of this full-day hike is the treacherous footing, as much of the last leg of the route crosses the sharp, jumbled rocks of old landslides now obscured by high grass. Take care and watch each step; a fall into one of the hidden crevices could result in a serious sprain or fracture — not a good thing to have way out in the forest on Pohnpei. There are also a great many sakau (kava) plants in the area — a massive number, in fact — which hikers must take care to avoid damaging. The roots of the plant are used to make Pohnpei’s potent ceremonial drink. Large plants can be twenty years old or more. Small huts, which farmers use while working on their plants, are passed at several places along the route.

The cave sits just to one side of the falls with a stunning view of the hidden valley. The roof is a bit low in places, but it’s quite a fair size none the less. Though a thin stream of water flows across one side of the cave floor, the rest is dry and makes an excellent camping location. Hunters often use it, and you may notice their cooking pots stored in crevices at the rear of the cave.

Plan for 6-8 hours for this hike.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Lou Rahn. Offer $37-50.00 for a group of five or less.

Map Guides >> Nett & Western U >> Lou Rahn Cave & Waterfall

By pni-surfclubPosted on March 3, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in birding, camping, caves, greater nett, hiking & trekking, waterfallsTagged birding, caves, fsm, hiking, islands, lou rahn, micronesia, mountains, nett, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, rainforest, trails, waterfalls

Lenger WWII Historical Sites

Southwest Side

Subterranean Crude Oil Facility (Pahnlenger)

Built beneath Dolen Lenger, the Japanese crude oil storage complex is without question the most impressive of the island’s historical sites. If tight spaces, heights, cobwebs, bats, or the dark make you nervous, this is where you should grab your flashlight and confront your phobias! You don’t want to miss this experience, but do take care where you put your feet and watch out for swiftlets darting about.

The facility is accessed through the first of a trio of steel gates that opens onto a wide rock tunnel lying parallel to the hillside (Gates 2 & 3 are blocked by mud and rock-fall). Steel ladders in alcoves opposite each of the gates run up the wall to concrete lofts from which Japanese personnel could inspect the massive oil tanks. Each tank is 40 meters long and 10 meters wide (131 x 33 ft) with an arched, riveted ceiling and an estimated capacity of 3,300 metric tons. From each loft a second ladder descends 10 meters (33 ft) through a hatch to the floor of the tank. Depending on recent rains, there may between 10 cm and a meter of standing water on the floor, but it’s usually possible to explore without getting too wet. Japanese graffiti on the wall of the first loft reads: “Push forward bravely and strive.” Records seem to indicate that only the third tank was operational. A large diesel engine in front of Tank 3 was probably used to pump the oil in and out. A pipe runs all the way to the coast.

Storage Caves (Pahnaiau)

The four caves carved into the slope of Dolen Lenger were probably intended for use as storage facilities (and also for defense as a last resort), but may not have been completed. Cave 1 is tiny (about 6 meters deep). The other three are grouped together 50 meters (164 ft) to the northwest. Cave 2 is 15 meters deep, 8.5 meters across (49 x 28 ft), and nearly as high with a wide entrance sloping steeply to a soggy floor. If you venture down, be careful of broken glass from bottles that might have been meant for Molotov cocktails (gasoline bombs). Cave 3 is slightly larger and deeper with several terraces. A line of rock-filled barrels at the mouth seems to have been added as protection against a land attack, and the third terrace may have been intended for a machine gun. Cave 4 is the largest with a depth of 28 meters. All of the caves are muddy, often have standing water on their floors, and are occupied by colonies of Caroline Islands swiftlets. The name of the area, Pahnaiau, means “under the banyan tree.”

Concrete Plant Equipment (Pahnaiau)

West of the main path to the caves is a ballast mound with a mango tree on top and a cluster of equipment used in the process of making cement: three concrete mixers, a large Yanmar diesel engine, and the 610 mm gauge rail lines that were used to transport dynamited rock from the cave sites along the hillside. A rock-crusher lies 23 meters (75 feet) southwest of the mixers.

South Side

Oil Tank Complex (Pahnkamal)

This large walled complex originally contained two steel tanks for the storage of crude oil, which was pumped in from the coast. The larger tank, with a 1000-liter capacity, was dismantled in the 1970s by a man who needed steel plates for his ship. He was in the process of taking apart the smaller one, when the government intervened. The existing tank can be entered where the lower panels have been removed. The roof is accessible via a ladder on the inside, leading to a manhole. A courtyard wall surrounds the entire facility (now being used by local residents as a pigpen) and concrete channels lead to a pair of rectangular cisterns (currently piled with coconut husks). Large bomb craters from the American bombardment are found on the northwest and south sides.

Aviation Fuel Reservoir Tunnel (Pahnkamal)

Northwest of the main path is a subterranean tank that supplied the seaplanes with aviation fuel. A steel door in the hillside opens on a tunnel about 8 meters long (typically flooded with about 20 cm of standing water and silty mud). At the end of the tunnel, the fuel pipes turn to the right and disappear into a concrete wall, behind which the reservoir lies. A ladder runs up to a secondary entrance hatch on the slope, but it is now rusted shut. The Japanese took fuel from this location by truck to the seaplane facility.

East Side

Cisterns & Machines(Nanpeilam)

Footpaths leading toward residences on the eastern coast pass a variety of rusting machine parts and two rectangular concrete cisterns. The southernmost cistern can be entered through a hole knocked in the south wall. A ladder also runs up to the roof.

“The Banyan Wheel” (Dausong)

The most photogenic of the island’s attractions is not far from the main path on a terrace cut into the eastern slope of Dolen Lenger. There are several concrete foundations here and on one of them is an unidentified machine (perhaps an engine or rock-crusher) that has been completely absorbed by a huge banyan tree, such that the large machine wheel is permanently fixed on the outside of the tree with two roots growing right through the spokes. Take our word for it: it’s pretty darn cool.

Northeast Side

Seaplane Hangar & Aircraft Wreckage (Dietakai)

The hangar on the northeast side of the island once housed the “flying boats” that flew between Chuuk, Pohnpei, and the Marshall Islands and the Naval Type-O Observation seaplanes that were used for recon. The structure sustained at least two direct hits from bombs, leaving massive craters at the front and on the southeast wall and possibly contributing to the eventual collapse of most of the braced girder roof in the 1980s (only the rear portion still stands). Near the northeast corner is a half-buried air compressor and just beyond this the engine cylinder of a destroyed aircraft, but the tangled girders make it difficult to move further inside from this direction. A careful search near the east side of the foundation should yield the wreckage of at least one plane (an Aichi E13A1 Jake), including the engine and propeller, portions of a wing, a pontoon, strut, and bits of bulkhead next to one of the carriers used to move the planes. The hangar can be much more easily entered at the rear, where the roof girders are still intact. A pair of carriers — on their way to being devoured by a ficus — were used to transport the seaplanes.

Download a FREE BONUS MAP of the seaplane hangar here

Seaplane Ramp & Apron (Dietakai)

The large seaplane ramp and apron dates to 1939 or shortly after and was constructed by a labor force consisting of Japanese, Korean, Pingelapese, Mwoakillese, and Pohnpeian workers. The structure lies on a reclaimed portion of the island and stretches northeast into the sea. The underwater section was made from concrete slabs poured elsewhere and lowered from barges, where they were assembled by divers. Stone seawalls around the perimeter were constructed in the highly stable yabane-tanizumi configuration. Written accounts left by local workers describe slave-labor conditions and harsh punishments for anyone who did not cooperate (one account says men were strung up to bake in the sun). A Pohnpeian marching dance (“Ke Dehr Lemeleme Me Se Ruksang Doadoahk en Kaigun”) composed during the event, commemorates the regular desertions of laborers.

Today, the cratered apron has been claimed by the forest and is difficult to even identify from the ground, but at the time of writing there was a clear path across it. The ramp was repaired by the Americans and used as the primary airstrip until the current airport on Dekehtik was completed. It remains mostly intact, though several structures in the area post-date the Japanese period (including an old hut for picnickers and the concrete tanks from a giant clam hatchery that operated in the 1990s).

Dolen Lenger

Dug-Outs & Tunnels (Dolen Lenger)

The ascent of Dolen Lenger follows the northernmost of two Japanese roads that lead up the hill and eventually intersect. The lower part of the southern road is mostly blocked by trees and mud and is no longer a good way to access the hill, but you can explore the upper section, where several dug-outs cut into the slope on either side. Two of the entrances are connected by a short tunnel.

Gatepost & Barracks Foundations (Dolen Lenger)

A bit further up the northern path, hikers pass a gatepost (its twin has fallen down the hill), adorned with round, colorful river stones imported from Japan. Naval personnel gathered at this spot for their morning meeting. Not far ahead, the foundations of a barracks complex are found on a large terrace in the hillside. The area is littered with Japanese beer bottles, old diesel engines, steel water tanks, and rusting machine parts. A short tunnel worms into the slope to the left of where the path climbs a flight of concrete steps and continues up the hill.

Searchlight (Dolen Lenger)

The drum and turn-table of a 110 cm searchlight (probably a Navy Model 92) lie just off the right edge of the path. The light was originally mounted on the rock outcropping five meters (16 ft) west of the its current position and was used to identify targets at night. It was probably dismantled by American personnel after the war.

Small Gun Station (Dolen Lenger)

Further along, a deviation from the main path leads to an unknown battery, probably for a machine gun or small artillery, which was removed after the war. A short stone wall protects the site and contains two ammunition magazines.

Anti-Aircraft Gun Stations (Dolen Lenger)

Two anti-aircraft batteries crown the hill, one to the west and the other at the end of the main path. Both sites consist of concrete rings surrounded by stone and earth revetments and a number of ammunition magazines (nine at the first station and six at the second). Naval 8 cm Type 3 Dual-Purpose Guns were installed at these locations to protect the seaplane base and other important Lenger facilities. Unfortunately, both guns were removed after the war.

Dolen Lenger Summit Area

From the last anti-aircraft gun station, it’s possible to continue another 50 meters (164 ft) or so to the 77 meter summit of the hill (marked with a brass USGS benchmark) and pick your way to the cliff-top for expansive views of Kolonia and the northern lagoon. Bring a machete and take care at the edge of the precipice.

Coastal Battery & 15 cm Naval Gun (Dolen Lenger)

Just north of the searchlight, a branch in the path turns west and descends a series of muddy steps to the coastal batteries and their four naval gun stations. Records disagree as to whether guns were actually installed at all four of the stations or if one station at each battery was a decoy. The only gun remaining on Lenger — a 15 cm 40 caliber British Armstrong-Whitworth naval canon — lies on its side in the mud at the southernmost station not far from the pedestal mount. It was probably thrown there by the detonation of one of the many bombs dropped by Allied aircraft in 1944. The barrel and shield are separated from the jacket and recuperator and partly buried. Japanese records state that the 15 cm gun on Sokehs Mountain was originally installed at Lenger and moved during the war. Lenger’s guns were intended to prevent surface invasions from Pweitik Passage to the northwest and had a range of roughly 7 kilometers (4.3 mi).

Heavy Ordnance Magazine Foundation (Dolen Lenger)

Past the gun stations is the foundation of what was probably a magazine for heavy ordnance surrounded by impressive inclined blast walls of quarried basalt rock. As is true of the best examples of Japanese architecture on Pohnpei, the stones were laid in the alternating diagonal pattern called “herringbone style” (or yabane-tanizumi). The site was most definitely covered during the operational period and camouflaged to make it invisible from the air.

West Side

Coastal Barracks Foundations

The remains of two large barracks are found on the western coast of the island. Both of the structures were wooden pitched-roof buildings raised above the ground on concrete posts and reached by short flights of stairs. Each barracks housed as many as fifty men. Only the posts and stairs remain today. The southern foundation has a nahs built on top of it, which was part of one the island’s two “resorts” in the 1990s.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The Lenger Island guide would not exist without the amazing work and cooperation of archaeologist Takuya Nagaoka, who was the first person to map the historical sites on Lenger. Nagaoka’s meticulous survey maps and exhaustive report (as yet, unpublished) were indispensable in the process of finding and interpreting neglected sites that had become heavily overgrown.

Eco-Adventure Map Guides >> Lenger Island >> Lenger Historical Sites

By pni-surfclubPosted on February 1, 2013September 1, 2019Posted in caves, hiking & trekking, historical sites, islands, lenger & sapwtik islands, snorkeling, swimming & picnicking, world war sitesTagged 15 cm gun, banyan wheel, caves, fsm, guns, historical sites, islands, japanese historical sites, lenger island, micronesia, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, seaplane hangar, seaplane ramp, seaplane wreckage, searchlights, tunnels, world war sites