historical sites – Pohnpei Eco-Adventure Guide

Paddling Lenger & Sapwtik

As the closest lagoon islands to Kolonia and with the highest concentration of WWII historical sites anywhere around Pohnpei, Lenger and nearby Sapwtik make fantastic destinations for paddling enthusiasts. In addition to the attractions on each of the two islands, there are mangrove forests and some interesting reef environments to explore.

Around Lenger

Pahnaiau Getaway (Barbosa’s Wharf) to the Seaplane Ramp

This portion of the route is characterized by Lenger’s shallow fringe reef, a sandy, silty expanse dominated by small-scale coral growth, brilliant blue starfish, cowries, sea cucumbers of various types, and scattered beds of seagrass, which Pohnpeian’s call oaloahd. Keep an eye out for the main attraction: stingrays. They generally rest on the bottom in the sand and will shoot off when you approach. Not far beyond the wharf is the Jaluit Cistern, one of the oldest historical sites in Pohnpei State. The cistern was probably constructed in the late 1880s by German traders operating on the coast. A stone wharf originally connected it with the coast, but a few scattered stones are all that are left. Bullet holes in the masonry were caused by Allied strafing during WWII.

If you decide to make a wider arc around the island, you’ll pass over areas where the reef shelf ends and the deep part of the lagoon begins. Small sea turtles are seen on rare occasions near the reef wall. The majority of the reef fish will also be found at this natural boundary. Note, however, that the reef stretches all the way to Sapwtik in the northwest and there is no way around Lenger’s northern end without crossing it. The depth over the shelf varies from a few centimeters to a meter, depending on the time of day and the precise location. Because fragile corals and other organisms are harmed by feet or dragging keels, the northern passage should be attempted at high tide only.

The Seaplane Ramp to the Mangrove Passage

The reef on the eastern side of the island tends to be deeper than in the northwest and has denser beds of seagrass. Larger fish are found in this area, and sometimes juvenile black-tip reef sharks can be seen swishing their way around.

The Mangrove Passage to Barbosa’s Wharf

The tunnel-like mangrove passage winds about a third of a kilometer through a dense section of forest that mostly comprises members of the Rhizophora genus, identified by the arching prop roots that extend out of the water toward the tree trunks. It’s a nice, scenic paddle and a good place to spot shorebirds like the Pacific Reef Heron and Micronesian Kingfisher. Once out of the forest, you can follow the coastline past the ruins of the Japanese-era Kohatsu Wharf and back to Barbosa’s Wharf.

Around Sapwtik

A relatively well-preserved Japanese wharf extends southwest from Sapwtik’s coast all the way to the edge of the reef. This is a wonderful place for a picnic and swim or snorkel. There’s one large tree on the wharf, offering shade. To the west is a maze of mangrove clumps that are fun to paddle through (though they are not as extensive as Lenger’s) before reaching the western terminus of the island. North of the point is an exposed rocky place that’s a perfect pull-out spot for a snack. A little beyond that is the site of the coastal battery and nearby munitions magazine. Conditions north of Sapwtik’s coastline are very similar to Lenger’s northern sector — shallow and characterized by seagrass beds and silt. You shouldn’t try to kayak here except at mid to high tides. All along the coast, you’ll find evidence of Japanese occupation, low walls, foxholes, rifle pits, etc.

Starting		Ending	Distance (km)	Distance (mi)
St. Peter’s Church, Sokehs	—-	Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger	7.93 km	4.93 mi
Misko Beach, Dekehtik Island	—-	Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger	4.52 km	2.8 mi
Ice Dock, Kolonia Town	—-	Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger	3.53 km	2.2 mi
Nett Point, Nett	—-	Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger	1.97 km	1.22 mi
St. Peter’s Church, Sokehs	—-	Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik	7.75 km	4.81 mi
Misko Beach, Dekehtik Island	—-	Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik	4.34 km	2.7 mi
Ice Dock, Kolonia Town	—-	Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik	4.23 km	2.63 mi
Nett Point, Nett	—-	Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik	2.95 km	1.83 mi
Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger	—-	Japanese Seaplane Ramp, Lenger*	1.52 km	0.95 mi
Japanese Seaplane Ramp, Lenger	—-	Mangrove Passage Northern Entrance, Lenger	0.58 km	0.36 mi
Mangrove Passage Northern Entrance, Lenger	—-	Kohatsu Wharf, Lenger	0.42 km	0.26 mi
Kohatsu Wharf, Lenger	—-	Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger	0.51 km	0.32 mi
Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger	—-	Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik	1.29 km	0.8 mi
Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik	—-	Gun Battery, Sapwtik	0.74 km	0.46 mi

*Shallow reef shelf. This segment is only passable at middle to high tides.

Map Guides >> Lenger & Sapwtik Islands >> Paddling Around Lenger & Sapwtik

By pni-surfclubPosted on May 15, 2021May 15, 2021Posted in birding, hiking & trekking, historical sites, islands, lenger & sapwtik islands, paddling, snorkeling, swimming & picnicking, world war sitesTagged canoeing, fsm, historical sites, islands, kayaking, lenger island, lighthouse, mangrove forest, micronesia, oceania, pacific, paddleboarding, paddling, pohnpei, ponape, sapwtik island, stand-up paddleboarding, SUP

Takaieu & Dehpehk Islands

Takaieu and Dehpehk are two large volcanic islands connected by a bridge and linked to the coast of U by a causeway. Most of the local residents live around the eastern and northern coasts of Takaieu and the western coast of Dehpehk and commute to and from Pohnpei by boat. The islands are fun to explore if you want to get a glimpse of old-style Pohnpeian life sans roads and electricity. A seaward turn just before the Madolenihmw border brings one to the unpaved causeway. A well-maintained footpath runs east around Takaieu, crosses the Dehpehk-Takaieu Bridge, continues on the west coast of Dehpehk, and then wraps around the eastern coast, where it connects with another trail going over the interior hill. The marine areas along the eastern coast belong to the Dehpehk Marine Protected Area (MPA). No permission is needed to visit either island, but do be respectful and stay on the main paths around the inhabited areas.

Takaieu Island

Takaieu figures into a well-known local myth about two magical brothers. The island is said to have been created when these brothers dragged a large rock all the way from Yap — hence the name, which means “one rock.” The causeway road ends not far along the south coast and is replaced by a tidy rock footpath (vehicles can be parked on the side of the road near the trailhead). From there, the path bends around the mangrove-fringed eastern coastline, passing neatly maintained farmsteads here and there. Mwelling marks the spot of one of the megalithic structures built by Olsihpa and Olsohpa before they founded Nan Madol. The site is impressive, but is easier to reach by boat than from land. About halfway across the north side of the island, the path turns and connects with Dehpehk via a small concrete footbridge.

The Origin of Takaieu Island

There was once a woman in Salapwuk named Lienlama who had two sons named Mwohnmur and Sarapwau. The boys were quite mischievous and had many adventures that figure into Pohnpeian myth. In one story, the brothers went to the islands of Yap and used a magic spell to make a stone fly from that place to Pohnpei. They flew the stone to Wenik (modern-day U) and set it down in the lagoon, naming it Takaieu (“one stone”). They had brought some southern yams with them and they cooked these up, but threw the parts that were underdone into the forests of Alohkapw and Edienleng. And so they southern yam was first propagated in those places.

Dehpehk Island

Dehpehk is long and skinny with a low ridge running along its length. Like Takaieu, it forms its own sub-division, or kousapw, The trail on the west coast is narrow, but heavily used as there are many residences on this side. Once you’ve reached the northern extreme of Dehpehk, however, there’s little reason to go further as the trail gets steadily harder to follow where many of the houses have been abandoned. If you do want to continue, you’ll end up at a homestead with a large piggery. Here the path turns west and climbs over the central hill, reconnecting with the western coastal trail. There’s a nice elevated view from a point just below Dolen Dehpehk (100 m).

Plan for 7-8 hours for this hike.

To obtain a guide who can show you around both islands contact Pohnpei Surf Club as one of their boat drivers / dive masters is from the area and can provide assistance with exploring the islands.

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Takaieu & Dehpehk Islands

By pni-surfclubPosted on May 15, 2021May 15, 2021Posted in birding, cultural sites, hiking & trekking, historical sites, islands, paddling, prehistoric ruins, snorkeling, swimming & picnicking, u & northern madolenihmwTagged dehpehk island, fsm, hiking, island, lagoon, micronesia, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, prehistoric sites, takaieu island, trails, two islands, u

Sapwtik Island

Sapwtik, which means “small land,” is a tiny volcanic island located directly north of Kolonia and 0.5 km northwest of Lenger. Seen in profile, the island resembles a large submarine, leading some locals to nickname it “Submarine Island.” Sapwtik is jointly-owned by the Eschiet family, which has some small houses at the eastern end of island, and their in-laws, the Adams family. During the 1880s, Sapwtik was purchased by Jan Stanisław Kubary, a Polish naturalist and ethnographer, along with a large piece of land east of what is now Kolonia — a place called Mpwoampw. In 1896, after returning from an extended absence and finding his homestead in ruins and his claims on the properties questioned by the Spanish authorities, Kubary committed suicide. Mpwoampw and Sapwtik were then purchased by Dominique Escheit, a Belgian trader who had operated in the Marshall Islands before coming to Pohnpei. Between 1914 and 1945, the Japanese were in charge and a great deal of land was seized by the military for defensive purposes — including Sapwtik. Like its neighbor, Lenger, Sapwtik was fortified in the late 1930s in preparation for an Allied invasion that never came. The primary features are found on the low hilltop and at the western terminus.

Sapwtik Island Attractions

Japanese Wharf

Visitors to Sapwtik will want to make their first stop at the Japanese Wharf, a 296 meter-long (324 yd) basalt structure that juts out from the island’s southwest coast all the way to the edge of the reef. With the exception of the very end, which has sustained some damage from waves, the wharf is in excellent condition almost 80 years after it was built — a testament to the quality of Japanese construction during the colonial period (and the use of the highly stable tanizumi, or herringbone, style of stonework). The wharf connects with the coastal road, also built by the Japanese, which skirts the mangroves from one end of the island to the other. The road is built above a stone retaining wall that stabilizes it against the swampy mangrove environment. Retaining walls also run along the opposite edge to prevent erosion from the steep hillside above.

Snorkeling & Swimming

All the ocean areas around Sapwtik belong to the Sapwtik Marine Protected Area, a sanctuary protected by legislation. The snorkeling off the reef walls at the end of the wharf is quite nice with generally good visibility and lots of fish. Just start at the wharf and follow the reef wall in either direction (the further from the island, the better it gets). The best place to swim is also right off the end of the wharf. Shallow areas on either sides of the wharf are silty.

A large banyan tree forms the flag of the submarine at Sapwtik Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Command Center & Barracks

The central hill is most easily accessed from the maintained Japanese coastal road. About 60 meters east of the wharf, hikers can cut off the road and up the slope (another 60 m) to reach the summit. The Adam’s family keeps the hill extremely tidy, cutting the grass, planting flowers, and keeping the historical features free of vines and brush. The place has a manicured, park-like feel and a stunning view of everything to the south. One of the best preserved yabane-tanizumi style rock walls on Pohnpei runs the length of the hilltop on the south side with two breaks, where earthen ramps lead up to the top. Two foundations were likely a command center and a barracks for personnel stationed on the island. The northern foundation is the largest and has seven sets of steps leading up to where the floor once was. The structure itself would have been wooden, while only the support posts and the lower parts of the walls were concrete. Two large concrete cisterns are connected to the two foundations (check out the bullet holes from Allied strafing). At the north end of the complex, the hill road begins, cutting right through the hill and running all the way to the gun batteries at the northwestern end of the island. Some of the road is currently impassable due to piles of felled trees and branches, but it’s impressive none the less.

To visit the gun batteries, it’s best to return to the coastal road and hike northwest all the way to the end. The road is well-kept and easy to follow.

Magazine Complex / Shell Storage

From the cut-off point for the hilltop, it’s about 150 m (164 yd) along the road to the first point of interest, a high-walled magazine complex for heavy ordnance similar to the one at the coastal gun battery on Lenger. The surrounding basalt rock wall (also tanizumi style) runs north and then curves sharply back to the south to enclose the foundation of the magazine structure, which is about 6 meters long. On the inside of the enclosure, the walls are steeply sloped. There is no roof, but the entire feature may have been covered with canvas and camouflaged during war-time. The entrance is narrow — less than 2 meters wide — and curved.

Coastal Gun Battery

About 12 meters northwest of the magazine is the first of four 75 mm field gun stations. These are similar to the structures on Lenger, though the Sapwtik sites are more primitive with less concrete and more earthen features. No guns remain, and two of the sites may have been decoys that never had guns installed. Guns would have protected the primary entrance to Kolonia at Pweitik Passage (Kepidauen Pweitik) to the northwest. A footpath continues north past the gun emplacements and then turns southeast to follow the contour of the hill. Along this are a few stone rifle pits or machine gun emplacements. Old Japanese beer bottles litter the forest.

NOTE: The ruins of a searchlight and a tunnel, cutting completely through part of the central hill, also exist on Sapwtik, but we did not have the opportunity to locate them during our brief period of fieldwork on the island. If you’re interested in seeing these features, contact Richie Adams at (+691.320.5735). The Pacific Wrecks website has photos of both.

To obtain permission to visit, call Richie Adams (Adam’s Brothers Corporation) at +691.320.5735 or call Ace Hardware’s office at +691.320.2723.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The Sapwtik Island information would not exist without the cooperation of the Adams family.

Eco-Adventure Map Guides >> Lenger Island >> Sapwtik Island Attractions

By pni-surfclubPosted on May 15, 2021June 11, 2021Posted in caves, hiking & trekking, historical sites, islands, lenger & sapwtik islands, paddling, snorkeling, swimming & picnicking, world war sitesTagged caves, fsm, historical sites, island, islands, japanese historical sites, lagoon, micronesia, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, sapwtik island, snorkeling, swimming, tunnels, world war sites

Nahpali Island

Nahpali is a long, narrow reef island running roughly northeast-southwest and located northeast of Temwen Island in Madolenihmw Municipality. The island is privately owned by the Senda family and has remained largely undeveloped. In 1836, a war that erupted between the crew of a visiting British whaleship, the Nahnmwarki (paramount chief of Madolenihmw), and a rival chief (the Wasai), spilled over onto the island. After the whaleship ran aground, its cargo was transferred to Nahpali, where it was later stolen by the brother of the Nahnmwarki, called Nahnawa. The whalers and Nahnawa’s men fought on the island, where Nahnawa temporarily got the upper hand and killed the captain of the ship and three others. Eventually however, with the help of the Wasai, who was based on Na Island and coveted the Nahnmwarki title, the whalers overcame the Nahnmwarki and his brother and murdered them. During the 1930s, Nahpali was occupied by the Japanese military, which operated a gun battery and searchlight station near the northern end. Today, the island is forested and scattered with the remains of the gun stations and other Japanese structures, including water storage tanks and steps that once led up to an elevated wooden barracks (now long gone). All of the suitable camping areas lie on the western and northern coasts and the swimming and snorkeling is all along the reef wall west of the island, while the eastern side descends into impassable mangrove swamps.

Attractions

110 cm Searchlight

As part of their fortification of Nahpali, the Japanese mounted a 110 cm searchlight at the northeast end of the island, closest to the channel opening. They probably intended to use the light to spot enemy ships attempting to pass inside the reef, but it seems unlikely that they ever got to use it in battle. The May Day bombardment of Pohnpei by American warships focused primarily on the targets of highest import — Kolonia Town, Sokehs Mountain, and Lenger Island — and it’s doubtful that American vessels were anywhere near Nahpali. Allied bombers, however, may have played a part in the destruction of this piece of hardware. The searchlight drum now rests in the sandy shoals north of the concrete platform where it was originally installed. The platform is broken into several pieces, but it’s not clear whether the damage was caused by a bomb blast or just the action of tides, waves, and erosion over nearly 70 years. Other bits of the light are scattered around in the water nearby.

8 cm Gun Stations

Duane Denfeld’s 1979 archaeological overview of Pohnpei’s historical sites indicates four 8 cm gun stations on Nahpali (based on American intelligence gathered through aerial photography rather than an actual visit to the island). During our quick survey of Nahpali, we were only able to locate three of the stations and one of them was severely deteriorated. No guns remain, but the concrete defensive structures are still there — albeit very overgrown.

Other Japanese Structures

Most of the other structures found on the island are clustered around the west side. There’s a series of foundations that might have belonged to a barracks, several hulking cisterns of various types, and a diesel engine.

“Gateway Tree”

On the shore just south of the last Japanese structure is a huge tree shaped like an arched gateway. A portion of the tree seems to have bent over and made contact with the ground, where it put down more roots, forming an amazing piece of natural architecture.

Sandy Beaches

Beautiful stretches of fine copper sand are found on Nahpali’s northwestern and northern coasts. The beaches, however, do not extend all the way out to deep water, giving way instead to shoals of coral rubble and seagrass. The best beach is found where the coastline turns to the east near a pile of concrete slabs that might have been part of a wharf or coastal pillbox. Other ruined structures are scattered along the shore below the high-tide level. There is another smaller beach on the western coast at the southern end of the island.

Surfing

One of two surfable reef-breaks in the area lies on the edge of Kepidauen Deleur, northwest of Nahpali. Visit our surfing page for more details.

To obtain permission for overnight stays, call McKenzie Senda at +691.320.8682 / 7147 / 4062.

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Nahpali Island

By pni-surfclubPosted on May 15, 2021May 15, 2021Posted in camping, central madolenihmw, historical sites, islands, paddling, snorkeling, surfing, swimming & picnicking, temwen vicinity, world war sitesTagged fsm, island, lagoon, micronesia, nahpali island, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape

Temwen Vicinity Paddling

If Nan Madol is your primary destination, the southern route around Temwen is the shortest, following the tranquil passage of Dauen Moahk (a meditative way to begin or end the day). Note, however, that east-bound passage under the two bridges at Temwen Causeway is extremely difficult or impossible when the tide is coming in. The current flowing into the bay can be as powerful as a river.

Temwen Island Circumnavigation

For people that want an upper-body workout, the 8.9 km (5.3 mi) paddle around Temwen is an interesting journey with a variety of different sights along the way. Be informed on the tides before starting as the reefs on the northeast and northwest sides are only inches deep at low tide.

Heading north, there are wonderful views of scenic (but murky) Madolenihmw Bay and nearby Takaiuh and Nahnpahlap hills. Peipas Island, a man-made basalt burial structure that is probably related to Nan Madol, is hidden among the mangroves of Temwen’s western coast. Further on, stony Salong Point juts north almost to the edge of the channel. Unusual eroded rock formations and a complete lack of mangroves make the place visually unique and worth a look. There’s also a small sea-cave and a portal in the topography that frames conical Takaiuh. Depending on tides and recent rain, the sheltered bay east of the point is sometimes a nice place for a dip, though there isn’t enough coral in the area for snorkeling.

The segment between Salong Point and the Japanese Wharf can be a challenging paddle as Kepidauen Deleur is known for its rough water. This is apparently due to two seamounts in the area, called Mwudokendil and Mwudokensepehl. From the Japanese Wharf, it’s another 1.4 km (0.87 mi) to Nan Douwas. Enter the ruins from the north between Temwen and Peniot.

On the southern side of Temwen, you have the choice of several different channels through the mangroves, though all except Dauen Moahk are heavily silted in and impassable at low tide. The two largest islands between Temwen and Pohnpei — Mwudokalap and Mwudoketik — both host prehistoric stone structures related to Nan Madol. The former was the place where Isokelekel first encountered his estranged son, Nahlepenien, who would eventually become the first Nahnken and later the Nahnmwarki of U.

Nahnningi & Mall Islands

South of Temwen are Nahnningi (believed to be a man-made island from the Nan Madol era) and Mall islands. The latter has a stone tomb at the northern end. The Namwen Nahnningi Stingray Sanctuary lies northwest of the islands.

Visit the Islands page for more information about these locations.

Other Islands

Five islands are found northeast of Temwen at the edge of the massive reef shelf called Mad Pahra. Nahpali is littered with Japanese-era historical sites and has a couple of nice sandy beaches. Little Dekehmwahu also has a nice, secluded beach, but to get to it, you’ll have to paddle around Nahpali’s southern side. Na island’s nicest coasts are on the north side. The same is true of Dekehtik. Nahkapw is a little apart from the others with easy access to the best snorkeling in the area.

Visit the Islands page for more information about these locations.

Pahn Nahkapw & Kahnimweiso

The deep water between Nan Madol and Nahkapw at first appears to be a wide channel leading to the open ocean, but may in fact be something called a “blue hole.” It has been hypothesized that this trench is actually a collapsed portion of the reef shelf. Pohnpei oral histories speak of another stone city, called Kahnimweiso, that pre-dated Nan Madol and was said to lie where Pahn Nakapw is now. One theory proposes that the weight of the basalt constructions coupled with the undermining of the limestone reef shelf by freshwater run-off, could have caused a collapse and sent Kahnimweiso plummeting 65 meters to the bottom. When you see how the sandy shore at Nahkapw’s north end drops straight off into deep blue or experience the odd currents in the area, it’s not hard to believe that the site is special. To date, the theories have not been properly tested and Pahn Nahkapw has retained its secrets and its eerie feel.

Nan Madol

If coming from the south, enter the ruins through Dauen Moahk, the first mangrove channel encountered (high tide only). The first stops include Pahn Kadira and Kelepwel islets. From there, you can venture northeast up the canal to Peikapw, Idehd, Dorong, and Peneiring. Further north, notable sites include Kerian, Peikapw Sapwawas, Dau, Pahn Douwas, Pohn Douwas, Nan Douwas, and Konderek. On the return trip south, catch Lemenkau and adjacent Namwenkau (pool) and the huge boulder wall of Pahnwi at the southwest corner. The upper portion of Mweiden Kitti is silted in and nearly closed off by encroaching mangrove trees; it’s impassable even at high tide. All of the entrances on Madol Pah‘s southwest perimeter are now dead-ends, but provide nice sandy spots to picnic.

From the north, it’s easiest to enter Nan Madol at Dauen Nankieilmwahu between Temwen and Peniot islet — especially when surge and choppy seas in Pahn Nahkapw make the narrow gap at Nan Mwoluhsei too risky.

Paddling Distances Around Temwen Island

Starting		Ending	Distance (km)	Distance (mi)
MERIP	—-	Temwen Causeway	0.59 km	0.37 mi
Temwen Causeway	—-	Pahn Kadira islet*	1.7 km	1.0 mi
Dauen Moahk	—-	Pahnwi islet	0.89 km	0.55 mi
Pahnwi islet	—-	Lemenkau islet*	0.58 km	0.36 mi
Lemenkau islet	—-	Dorong islet*	0.62 km	0.39 mi
Lemenkau islet	—-	Peinering islet*	0.39 km	0.25 mi
Peinering islet	—-	Kerian islet*	0.42 km	0.26 mi
Peinering islet	—-	Nan Douwas islet*	0.41 km	0.25 mi
MERIP	—-	Salong Point	2.2 km	1.37 mi
Salong Point	—-	Japanese Wharf	1.0 km	0.64 mi
Japanese Wharf	—-	Nan Douwas islet*	1.4 km	0.87 mi
Japanese Wharf	—-	Nahpali Island	2.63 km	1.63 mi
Nahpali Island	—-	Dekehmwahu Island	2.00 km	1.5 mi
Kerian islet	—-	Nahkapw Island	0.89 km	0.55 mi
Nahkapw Island	—-	Dekehtik Island	0.52 km	0.32 mi
Dekehtik Island	—-	Northern Na Island	2.9 km	1.8 mi
Northern Na Island	—-	Dekehmwahu Island	0.77 km	0.48 mi
Mweiden Kitti	—-	Nahnningi Island	0.69 km	0.43 mi
Nahnningi Island	—-	Mall Island	0.42 km	0.26 mi

*Silted-in estuary. This segment may be difficult or impossible to traverse at low tide.

Map Guides >> Temwen Vicinity >> Temwen Vicinity Paddling

By pni-surfclubPosted on January 5, 2014September 4, 2019Posted in birding, camping, cultural sites, historical sites, islands, paddling, prehistoric ruins, snorkeling, swimming & picnicking, temwen vicinity, world war sitesTagged canoeing, fsm, islands, kayaking, madolenihmw, mangrove forest, micronesia, nan madol, oceania, pacific, paddleboarding, paddling, pohnpei, ponape, stand-up paddleboarding, SUP, temwen island

Paddling Around Central Madolenihmw

Dauen Sapwalap / Senipehn Mangrove Reserve

Dauen Sapwalap is the largest drainage in Madolenihmw, a wide, meandering channel that cuts through the mangrove forests from Kitamw and eventually empties into Madolenihmw Bay. Although the Lehdau River (Pillapen Lehdau) is probably the largest contributor to this major estuary, the two are not synonymous; the channel is also fed by three other watercourses, including the Kitamw Stream (Pilen Kitamw), Pwadapwad Stream (Pilen Pwadapwad), and River of Sekere Riau (Pillapen Sekere Riau). According to legend, a powerful demi-god named Lapongo — the same character involved in the story of Takaiuh peak — dug out the channel with his penis. The matriarch of the Lasialap Clan — a great eel responsible for the creation of Lipwentiak in Kitti and whose tail formed the great mountain in Nett, Pohnlehr — was also said to have dwelt in this channel for many years, terrorizing the local inhabitants.

During the 1889-1890 wars between the Spanish and Pohnpeians, which began in Ohwa and concluded in Kitamw, two contingents of Spanish troops were dispatched at the mouth of Dauen Sapwalap and attempted to move up both banks of the Pillapen Lehdau (Lehdau River) to reach a small half-finished fort built on a low hill by the Pohnpeian fighters. The first group of soldiers got terribly lost in the tangled forests and happened upon the fort only by mere chance. The second group was forced off-route by a seemingly supernatural flood and also ended up lost, camping overnight at Elieliwi before joining the fray. The assault cost the Spanish 21 men, and in the end the Pohnpeians merely withdrew and yielded a position that had meant little to them from the beginning.

In the last decade, the estuary became part of the Senipehn Mangrove Forest Reserve and afforded some environmental protections; tree-cutting, fishing, and gathering of other natural resources in the area is prohibited in most circumstances. Paddlers can explore the 2.6 km (1.62 mi) primary channel and its side passages by launching near the Lehdau River bridge, at the end of the road near Tahio, at the Madolenihmw “Ice Dock”, or at the MERIP boathouse.

Entering the mangrove reserve requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Takaiuh Peak

While Sokehs Rock is the stand-out natural feature in the north, in Madolenihmw that title certainly goes to Takaiuh (“standing rock”), a majestic conical hill-island on the north side of the bay. Westerners called this feature “Sugarloaf” after the molded cones of sugar that were popular in Western Europe as early as 1470, but the local name and its story are much more interesting (see Madolenihmw Bay Area page for more).

Paddlers can get right up close to the iconic hill for a view from the water that is better than from anywhere on land. There’s also good fun to be had noodling around in the mangrove forests on the eastern shore (at high tide). A sweet spot to stop for a picnic lunch is the top of an exposed rocky rise 0.36 km (0.22 mi) northwest of the peak (no mangroves skirt this bit of the shore).

Pahn Dieinuh

Pahn Dieinuh, the southern point of the Dolopwail peninsula, is significant historically for the 1836 conflict that began there between the visiting British whaleship Falcon and two rival Pohnpeian chiefs — Luhk en Kesik ( the Nahnmwarki) and the Wasai, the first and second ranking men in the royal line, respectively. Things got ugly when the Nahnmwarki made a move to seize the ship and its cargo. When the ship attempted to flee, it ran up on the reef. The cargo was transferred to Nahpali Island and then stolen a month later by the Nahnmwarki‘s brother, Nahnawa. A battle ensued on Nahpali between Nahnawa‘s party and the whalers, ending in the deaths of the ship’s captain and three other sailors. The Wasai, who had been challenging the Nahnmwarki‘s authority for some time, seized this opportunity to rid the land of his enemy by joining the crews of other whaleships in hunting down both Nahnawa and the Nahnmwarki. Fighting continued for several days until the Nahnmwarki was shot and Nahnawa captured and hanged from the yardarm of the whaleship Lambton. Both bodies were buried at Pahn Dieinuh, and the Wasai assumed the position of the Nahnmwarki. There isn’t much of anything to see at Pahn Dieinuh now, but it’s a good spot for a break mid-route. The closest launch points are MERIP boathouse, the “Ice Dock”, and the Metipw launch.

Mwudokolos Island

In addition to the seven islands (Nahpali, Dekemwahu, Na, Dehketik, Nahkapw, Nahnningi, and Mall) found around Temwen, there are three small islands to the north that shouldn’t be missed. The first of these — Mwudokolos — is found a half-kilometer (0.33 mi) northeast of Metipw and easily accessed from the coral-dredged causeway/dock found there (ask at the nearest house for permission to launch). Archaeologist Arthur Saxe believed that the island was tied to Nan Madol in some way and that it might even be a man-made island, but Japanese archaeologists working on the island in recent years have found no hard evidence to support that idea. They did discover prehistoric stone structures and a house platform that dates to the Nahnmwarki Period of Nan Madol (post-1700). Glass beads, sherds, and clay pipes were also found, suggesting that Mwudokolos was occupied by foreign traders in the late 1800s. The island is privately owned, but unoccupied.

To obtain permission for day visits or overnight stays, call Sesuko Hadley at +691.320.2540.

Dahu Reirei Island

From Mwudokolos, paddlers can continue 1.8 km (1.13 mi) further north through the easternmost of two dredged reef channels to reach Dahu Reirei (“long channel”), a narrow, man-made islet with huts for picnickers and campers and lots of pleasant swimming and snorkeling. When we say this island is narrow, we mean narrow (10 meters wide). Unless you like being crammed together elbow-to-elbow, avoid the place on weekends and holidays. It’s also not a place to be on intensely hot days (there are no trees large enough to provide shade) or during bad weather (the island is hardly a meter above sea level at high tide). On partly-cloudy weekdays, however, it can be heavenly. The surrounding water is generally crystal-clear and the reefs, which consist mainly of varieties of staghorn coral, are surprisingly healthy and relatively well-populated with reef fish. Small thatched huts along the length of the strip can be rented for the day or overnight.

To make reservations for day visits or overnight stays and to arrange boat transport, call Joseph Helgenberger at +691.320.2229.

Lepin Dau (“Channel Island”)

The final island covered in this sector (it’s just off the edge of the Central Madolenihmw map, but appears on the U & Northern Madolenihmw map) is claimed by the same family as Dahu Reirei and has no official name, but as it lies adjacent to the primary channel every boat in the area uses to go from Areu and Ohwa to Madolenihmw Bay, it’s known as Lepin Dau or “Channel Island.” This island is larger and higher than Dahu Reirei and has some welcoming tree-cover (mostly pandanus). The channel on the west side is a nice spot to snorkel at slack tide, but at other times, the current can be so strong that snorkelers and swimmers run a strong risk of being swept away. A better spot for snorkeling is in the blue holes around the southeast side — well out of the path of the current. Here you can find beautiful coral grottoes, huge schools of needlefish, barracuda, cuttlefish, trumpetfish, angelfish, and parrotfish, an odd seasnake (the latter are venomous, but so passive that they pose little danger to snorkelers), and from time to time even eagle rays and small green turtles. It’s a fantastic picnic destination for paddlers.

You don’t really need to get permission to make day visits to “Channel Island,” but overnighters should call Joseph Helgenberger at +691.320.2229.

Nanwap Marine Protected Area

The reefs on the north side of Kepidauen Deleur make up the Nanwap Marine Protected Area (MPA), a marine reserve with excellent snorkeling and diving. The best place to snorkel is about 1.3 km east of Metipw in a protected reef hole, but watch for strong currents.

Visit the Madolenihmw Bay Area page for a detailed description of this location.
Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Paddling Distances Around Central Madolenihmw

Starting		Ending	Distance (km)	Distance (mi)
“Ice Dock”	—-	Tahio*	3.12 km	1.94 mi
“Ice Dock”	—-	Sekeren Senipehn	2.5 km	1.6 mi
Sekeren Senipehn	—-	Dauen Wetiak	1.7 km	1.0 mi
Dauen Wetiak	—-	Dauen Sapwalap	1.3 km	0.8 mi
Dauen Sapwalap	—-	Pilen Kitamw (Kitamw Stream) Bridge	2.6 km	1.6 mi
“Ice Dock”	—-	Takaiuh Shore*	2.45 km	1.5 mi
“Ice Dock”	—-	Pahn Dieinuh*	2.6 km	1.62 mi
Takaiuh Shore*	—-	Diadi	3.44 km	2.1 mi
Japanese Wharf, Temwen Is.	—-	Diadi	0.99 km	0.61 mi
MERIP*	—-	Pahn Dieinuh	2.48 km	1.54 mi
MERIP*	—-	Salong Point, Temwen Is.	2.2 km	1.4 mi
Salong Point, Temwen Is.	—-	Japanese Wharf, Temwen Is.	1.0 km	0.64 mi
Japanese Wharf, Temwen Is.	—-	Nahpali Island	2.63 km	1.63 mi
Nahpali Island	—-	Metipw Launch	2.59 km	1.61 mi
Diadi	—-	Metipw Launch	2.8 km	1.75 mi
Kepidauen Deleur	—-	Nanwap Marine Protected Area (MPA)	1.24 km	0.77 mi
Metipw Launch	—-	Mwudokolos Is. Circumnavigation	1.4 km	0.9 mi
Metipw Launch	—-	Dahu Reirei Is.	1.86 km	1.2 mi
Dahu Reirei Is.	—-	“Channel Island” (see U Municipality & Northern Madolenihmw guide)	1.53 km	0.95 mi
Metipw Launch	—-	Pilen Semwei	2.61 km	1.62 mi

*Silted-in reef. This segment may be difficult or impossible to traverse at low tide.

Map Guides >> (Central) Madolenihmw >> Paddling Around Madolenihmw

By pni-surfclubPosted on January 4, 2014September 4, 2019Posted in birding, camping, central madolenihmw, cultural sites, hiking & trekking, historical sites, islands, paddling, prehistoric ruins, snorkeling, swimming & picnickingTagged adventure, canoeing, fsm, historical sites, islands, kayaking, madolenihmw, mangrove forest, micronesia, nan madol, oceania, pacific, paddleboarding, paddling, pohnpei, ponape, stand-up paddleboarding, SUP

Mwudokolos Island

Mwudokolos is found a half-kilometer (0.33 mi) northeast of Metipw and easily accessed from the coral-dredged causeway/dock found there (ask at the nearest house for permission to launch if you’re paddling out). The privately owned, but uninhabited, island has prehistoric stone structures that date to the Nahnmwarki Period of Nan Madol (post-1700). Glass beads, sherds, and clay pipes have also been found there by archaeologists, suggesting that Mwudokolos was occupied by foreign traders in the late 1800s. There’s some nice swimming and snorkeling northeast of the island.

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Mwudokolos Island

By pni-surfclubPosted on December 8, 2013May 15, 2021Posted in camping, central madolenihmw, historical sites, islands, paddling, snorkeling, swimming & picnickingTagged camping, fsm, historical sites, island, lagoon, micronesia, mwudokolos island, oceania, pacific, paddling, pohnpei, ponape, swimming

Dolen Palikir

Dolen Palikir (“hill of Palikir“) is a long hill in the middle of Palikir that runs northeast-southwest and has knolls at each end. The southern summit is slightly higher than the other at 250 meters. The Japanese capitalized on Dolen Palikir’s geography as they did with most of the high points on Pohnpei. Trench systems cross the path or run alongside it in several places and there are many small rifle pits. The trail begins at the Hadley residence west of the road leading to Iohl and climbs gently through high, waving grass before entering the trees. There it steepens as it meanders through sakau (kava) plantations (the tallest plants are just below the first summit). Near the summit benchmark is a prehistoric pehi (stone platform) linked to a story about Lepen Palikir — the highest chief in the region, but there’s no clear view of the valley here. The hike to the southern point follows the mostly flat ridge, passing many earthen defensive works, but none with cement or stonework. Near the middle of the ridge, the trees open up and provide a view of the panorama below. The most extensive Japanese structure is at the hill’s highest point and consists of three recessed gun sites with stone retaining walls around them and a trench leading down-slope.

Plan for 2-4 hours for this hike. Ask at the house for guides Rihlent Hadley or Denster Louis. Offer $20.00.

Map Guides >> Mainland Sokehs >> Dolen Palikir

By pni-surfclubPosted on October 5, 2013September 3, 2019Posted in camping, hiking & trekking, historical sites, mainland sokehs, prehistoric ruins, world war sitesTagged dolen palikir, fsm, hiking, hills, islands, japanese historical sites, micronesia, palikir, pohnpei, ponape, sokehs, world war sites

Temwetemwensekir Peak

Southeast of Palikir, Pohnpei’s primary mountain system makes an almost 90° turn to the south at Temwetemwensekir (594 m), a prominent peak that dominates the topography and feeds six major rivers. The all-day slog to the top begins up an unpaved road opposite the College of Micronesia national campus. Though the route isn’t always clear and the challenge of the climb is increased by rough terrain and a few steep pitches, once one reaches the palm forests on the ridge, it’s smooth sailing. Hikers are afforded some beautiful views of Nanpohnmal, Palikir, and peaks to the south of the summit area. Japanese trenches and an observation post can also be found at the northeastern corner of the plateau.

Plan for 8 hours for this hike.

Map Guides >> Mainland Sokehs >> Temwetemwensekir

By pni-surfclubPosted on October 4, 2013September 3, 2019Posted in birding, camping, hiking & trekking, historical sites, mainland sokehsTagged fsm, hiking, hills, islands, micronesia, mountain peaks, oceania, pohnpei, ponape, sokehs, temwetemwensekir, trails, trekking

Sokehs Japanese Sites & Parpwu Waterfall

Historical Sites in Mainland Sokehs

“Military Road” Hike / Bike Tour

One of the most rewarding routes for Japanese World War II-era historical sites follows a road 0.46 km (0.29 mi) northeast of the turn-off to the FSM capital. This track was built by the Japanese in the 1930s to access the many military sites in the area and remains unpaved. Whether it is public or private, however, seems to be a matter of some debate. FSM Telecom, which maintains a mobile phone tower near “Radar Station Hill” and uses the road often, says that the road and the areas immediately alongside it belong to the municipality and that people living beyond the Thomas residence are squatters without legal land claims. Even so, a family living on the south side of the road about 1 km (0.62 mi) from the Circle Island Road insists that everything beyond their house is private. There are two ways for visitors to deal with this issue: either (1) hire a knowledgeable local guide to escort you on your hike (you’ll likely find more with them anyway) or (2) visit the house in question and ask permission yourself. During our fieldwork, we used both options successfully. The road, though unpaved, is in pretty good condition, and as it doesn’t climb much, it’s a great choice for either hiking or biking. You can park your vehicle at the beginning near the Circle Island Road and go from there.

“Bunker Hill”

About 100 m (109 yd) from the starting point, you can cut off the road to the right and climb up the grassy hill, making your way toward the landowner’s house about 200 m (219 yd) to the northeast. This is the place to ask for permission to explore in detail. There are several points of interest worth looking into. At the southwest and northeast ends of the hill, there are bunker-like observation stations that consist of curved tunnels with domed concrete roofs and several gun ports. The southern bunker site is well-hidden with the entrance near the base of a large tree that has grown up in recent years. Entering is a dirty job, but once you’re inside, the structure becomes quite roomy. The gun ports allow light inside. The northern site is close to a large cassava plantation and is kept cleared. You can enter easily from either end. These structures were likely manned by a few riflemen and intended to protect the roads on both sides of the hill. In view of the landowner’s house you can also find a zigzag trench and two gun sites, one of which was probably a medium-sized anti-aircraft gun. No guns remain now. Some people believe a gun at this location shot down the American bomber “Love Bug”. Others say it was one on Dolen Pahniepw.

Paul Thomas’s Hill

Another 277 m (303 yd) further down the road, one comes to the residence of a friendly West Virginian native, Paul Thomas, and his local wife. Thomas enjoys a good chat, and if you ask politely, will happily point you in the direction of several interesting sites on the hill above his house. Easily found are two pairs of bunkers similar to those mentioned already, and between these, three small gun sites and several foxholes. Thomas keeps the hill trimmed and neat; all but one of the sites (the first set of bunkers) lie along the crest of the hill over a distance of about 125 m (137 yd). The hill commands sweeping views of the Palikir valley to the west.

If you want to make arrangements ahead of time, call Paul Thomas at +691.320.4562.

Dolen Pahniepw

The next stop is Dolen Pahniepw. An overgrown trail begins off the right side of the road 0.56 km (0.35 mi) past Thomas’s driveway and runs 0.43 km (0.27 mi) to the summit of the hill. About 300 m (328 yd) along the trail, one comes to the ruins of an army barracks, which consists of concrete house posts,
foundations, and a bombed-out cistern. Sets of concrete steps led to the entrances of the wooden buildings. Some scrounging in the jungle around the site should yield some old Japanese beer bottles. At the end of the trail is a large anti-aircraft gun site, which probably housed a medium-sized gun similar to those on Lenger Island. On the northeast side of the hill, you may be able to locate the foundation of a radio tower, some tunnels, and the chassis of a truck.

At the southern end of the hill near the road, you can scramble up the bank and find a pair of unfinished small gun emplacements, some trenches in the woods, and a defused bomb.

“Radar Station Hill”

The road ends near the FSM Telecom cellular phone tower at the summit of a hill. A footpath continues west to a cement platform for a Japanese radar array, two foxholes, and two circular gun sites. A large bomb crater south of the road makes an excellent tent site for campers with unobstructed views of the whole of mainland Sokehs. Back east down the road, an L-shaped cutting leads to a path and eventually to the site of a generator station with a concrete storage alcove built into the embankment and a rusting motor.

Plan for a half day to full day for this hike/ride, depending on how many sites you want to explore.
No guide is necessary for the Military Road sites as long as you ask permission wherever private land is an issue. However, you are likely to discover much more of interest with a guide who knows the sites. Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes around Sokehs, if desired. Offer $25-50 for a group of five or less.

PBJ-H1 “Love Bug” Bomber Ruins

Throughout 1944 and early 1945, the U.S. carried out a brutal bombing campaign of Japanese fortifications on Pohnpei. The only bomber ever shot down was a PBJ-1H (the U.S. Marines version of the Airforce B-25H) nicknamed “Love Bug” and piloted by First Lieutenant William J. Love. On February 6, 1945, while on a mission to destroy targets at the nearby Palikir airfield, the Love Bug was picked out of the sky by an anti-aircraft gun on one of the nearby hills (possibly “Bunker Hill”, Paul Thomas’s hill, or Dolen Pahniepw). The plane burst into flames upon impact, killing the entire crew. After the crash, Japanese soldiers collected the bodies and buried them in a marked grave near the crash site. A monument to the crew used to be found at the burial site, but it was taken apart by looters in the 1980s.

The crew was disinterred and reburied several times during the American Period before coming to rest at Jefferson Barracks National Cemetery in the U.S. — all except Sgt. David Snider, whose whereabouts were unknown until 1948. The wreckage was not positively identified until 2001, when two aviation archaeologists surveyed the area. The tail section and rudder were still visible in the forest in the 1980s, but the site has been heavily looted since and only a few large pieces remain — the port engine (sans prop), landing gear and wheel, and a portion of a stabilizer. Bits of wreckage are strewn across an area of some 7,000 square meters. Three defused bombs are also said to be in the vicinity, but we were unable to locate them during our visits.

It’s easiest to visit the site from the unpaved water tank road behind the FSM presidential housing facility. No guide is necessary, but you’ll have to ask the officer at the security check-point to let you through. The wreck is found on the forested slope a few meters off the north edge of the road before the water tank.

Plan for 1 hour for this hike. No guide is necessary, but you will need to ask the security guard on the road to let you through.

Nankewi River Vicinity

Ethanol Manufacturing Site

On the banks of Pillapen Nankewi (Nankewi River) the remnants of Japanese industry can still be seen. Neat stone retaining walls frame the river and trenches and pipes form a grid on the north bank. On the south bank are three large fermentation tanks, a variety of other distilling gear, brick ovens built into the hillside, a huge press, a crank, and other rusting machinery. The equipment was likely used to distill ethanol from sugar cane for fuel and other industrial purposes. A great deal of Japanese beer and liquor bottles litter the spot.

Parpwu Waterfall

The rather flat terrain in greater Sokehs doesn’t make for a lot of waterfalls, but Parpwu (a.k.a. “Nan Lohlo” or “Nankewi”) — located on the Nankewi River just behind the now deserted Sokehs Shopping Center — is unusual because it’s so close to the coast, almost in the mangroves. In fact, during very high tides, you can kayak all the way from Sokehs Bay to the falls. The waterfall is a beautiful sight, but unfortunately, upstream piggeries have polluted the watercourse and swimming is ill-advised (even though you’ll see local kids from the area doing just that). Photo courtesy of Bill Jaynes.

Plan for 1 hour for this hike. Its easy to find someone to guide you down to the falls and/or distillery site. Just ask in the area. Offer $6.00.

Map Guides >> Mainland Sokehs >> Mainland Sokehs Historical Sites

By pni-surfclubPosted on October 2, 2013September 3, 2019Posted in hiking & trekking, historical sites, mainland sokehs, waterfalls, world war sitesTagged biking, bunker hill, bunkers, camping, caves, dolen pahniepw, ethanol manufacturing site, fsm, hiking, historical sites, islands, japanese historical sites, japanese military road, love bug bomber wreckage, micronesia, nankewi river, oceania, pacific, parpwu waterfall, paul thomas's hill, pohnpei, ponape, radar station hill, sokehs, trails, trenches, tunnels, waterfalls