Ros is another beautiful uninhabited reef island in the south. The long, skinny island seems to be slowly disappearing as it erodes, but there are huge areas of wonderful sand on the west side to lounge about on and a narrow belt of trees. It’s mostly notable as a destination for paddlers, taking a break from exploring mangrove forests nearby, or SCUBA enthusiasts, resting between dives (Kepidauen Ros is one of two locations on Pohnpei famous for manta rays). There is good swimming and snorkeling a few kicks from the island.
For permission to visit or camp on the island, call +691.320.5896 or the Kitti Municipal Government Office at +691.320.5038, 320.5808, 320.5049, or 320.3257.
Nahlap, owned by former FSM congressman John David, has become one of the most popular lagoon island get-aways in Pohnpei State largely because it’s easy to get to, affordable, and has lots of huts for visitors. There are two docks, several stilt huts out over the water for lounging around and taking in the scenery, a volleyball court, and a variety of picnic spots. The island also has a small chapel on it located further in from the picnic area. They also have wifi on the island but only in a certain area and not across the whole island. The island is large, shady, and quite pleasant. Though the surrounding ocean is dominated by mangroves and seagrass, there are places on the far side and around the docks with good snorkeling. The southeast coast has some shady beaches at low tide (the best is in front of the tiny chapel) and rope swings for the kids. The turn-off for the launch at Sekeren Iap is about 21 km west and south of Kolonia. Continue past the Henry Nanpei memorial and the Rohnkitti Church all the way to the end of the road.
To make reservations or arrange for a boat taxi from Sekeren Iap in Rohnkitti, call +691.320.2776. Or call the Kitti Municipal Government Office at +691.320.5038, 320.5808, 320.5049, or 320.3257 and ask for assistance.
Dekehtik, which means “small island”, also called Sand Island is an uninhabited coral islet west of Na, of which it was once a part (not be confused with the island of the same name on which the airport is located). The north coast is most suitable for camping with some sandy beaches at low tide and stunningly clear water for swimming and ogling the many stingrays in the area. There are huts on the island for people to stay in while on the island. The island is currently owned by the Adams family (the proprietors of Ace Hardware and Ace Office Supply). The best snorkeling is northwest of the island along the edge of the deep, blue hole of Pahn Nahkapw. The island itself is characterized by thickets of shrubby vegetation and coconut palms. Sandy beaches form on the north coast at low tide.
To make reservations for day visits or night stays and to arrange boat transport call ACE at +691.320.8279 / 5637.
Though not as developed as Black Coral the small thatched huts are adequate for camping trips, the island is equally as shady and much larger than Black Coral, and it actually offers easier access to the excellent snorkeling around Kehpara Pass. It’s cheaper, too. At low tide, there’s a beautiful sandy beach between the two islands. The island has solar lights set up around the island to provide some light at night however we recommend bringing along a lantern and some flashlights to help illuminate inside the huts since they are not rigged with lights.
To make reservations for day visits or overnight stays and arrange for boat pick-up from the launch behind Seinwar Elementary School, call Nickson Abraham (Oaun Kitti) at +691.925.5340 / +691.920.8081 or the Kitti Municipal Government Office at +691.320.5038, 320.5808, 320.5049, or 320.3257.
“Black Coral” is the southernmost islet in the Namwmour chain of islands that straddles Kehpara Pass (Dauen Kehpara) on the southwest corner of Pohnpei’s barrier reef. It’s true name is said to be Kehpara, but hardly anyone calls it that. Instead, Kehpara is usually used to refer to the island on the opposite side of the pass (island on lower right side of top image). In the mid-1600s, the conquering hero, Isokelekel, first entered Pohnpei’s barrier reef through Kehpara Pass on his way from Ahnd Atoll to Nan Madol. The sandy and well-shaded coral island, which lies within the Kehpara Marine Protected Area (MPA), is currently owned by the Adams family (the proprietors of Ace Hardware and Ace Office Supply). Black Coral is immaculately maintained with serpentine footpaths running here and there through large sprawling trees and several simple, wooden huts for overnight camping. Good snorkeling is located off the eastern shore and in the pass to the north, where white-tip and black-tip reef sharks, spotted eagle rays, and other marine wonders can often be seen. The best SCUBA diving is along the outer edge of the barrier reef north of the pass, a spot called Kehpara Wall. The area is a spawning ground for several varieties of protected grouper. Though some sandy areas appear at low tide along the inner coast, Black Coral doesn’t have any true beaches.
To make reservations for day visits or night stays and to arrange boat transport from the Seinwar Launch behind Seinwar Elementary School call ACE at +691.320.8279 / 5637.
Beyond Pohnpei’s lagoon, the closest land to be found exists on two “satellite atolls” called Ahnd (pronounced änt) and Pakin (pä.keen). An atoll is made up of a number of coralline islets in a ring around a relatively shallow lagoon and is created when a high, volcanic island submerges over millions of years, leaving only the reef that fringed its shores. The islands form as sand, coral rubble, and other detritus collect on the reef and begin to support trees, small plants, and animals. Coral sand accumulates on the lagoon sides of the islands and creates beaches.
Ahnd (“Ant”) Atoll
Ahnd Atoll, popularly but erroneously spelled “Ant,” is 16 km (8 mi) southwest of Rohnkitti and consists of 13 low, luxuriant islands 3-4 meters above sea-level and a lagoon of 70 km2 entered by a single passage in the reef.
When the larger-than-life hero Isokelekel voyaged to Pohnpei, intent on overthrowing the rulers of Nan Madol, he came first to Ahnd and lived there for some time, learning about Pohnpeian customs from its inhabitants. In modern times, the entire atoll became the property of a single Pohnpeian family — the descendents of Henry Nanpei, who lived from 1862 to 1928. Nanpei’s shrewd business sense and knack for manipulating local power politics enabled him to acquire the atoll and amass a great deal of other land.
Today Ahnd has a few human residents, the biosphere rangers who make sure people do not fish within the protected area. There is also resort run by the Nanpei family located on the island of Pasa (information for booking trips can be found below).
It is home to some of the largest colonies of black noddies, terns, boobies, and frigatebirds in the Pacific as well as a healthy community of gray reef sharks in and around Dauenai (passage).
The most interesting islands to camp on are Pasa, Nikahlap, Dolen Mwuroi, and Nahlos. The former two have long stretches of deserted white-sand beach and excellent swimming. Nan Imwinsapw is closest to Dauenai (passage), where all the best snorkeling and the most accessible diving is found, but it has a big rat problem. Pahn Mwek is near to both excellent snorkeling and some of the rare diving that exists inside the lagoon. For the most part, however, the lagoon is the domain of snorkelers, sandy and punctuated by beautiful coral heads with lots of color and life at low tide.
Dauenai on the south side is where most people go to SCUBA dive. It is known for orange sponges (on the west wall) and large numbers of barracudas, jacks, and sharks throughout. Reef fish populations around the pass, unfortunately, have declined in the last two decades, but hopefully will recover now that the area is protected. Even so, the place still feels busy compared to other locations and you’ll see all the familiar species — unicornfish, triggerfish, wrasses, surgeons, groupers, butterflyfish, angelfish, moorish idols, and more. Moray eels might be spotted on occasion. Spinner dolphins are regularly seen at the mouth of the passage and in the waters around Ahnd. Visibility in the pass, though not as spectacular as outside the reef, can reach 50 meters (164 feet) — certainly nothing to complain about.
In addition to drift-dives on either side of the deep passage, there is stunning (and frequently overlooked) diving on the outer wall of the barrier reef on the northwest side near Olouna (often known as “bird island” for the huge colonies of seabirds that nest there), and north of Pasa. The west wall of the barrier reef plummets to great depths, and because it is more protected from the northeasterly winds and waves, it is marked by an abundance of soft coral, holes, tunnels, and caves — an exciting place for any advanced diver. Giant clams are also common. Visibility on the outside edges can be extraordinary, exceeding 70 meters (230 feet). Currents can be swift both in the pass and around the outer walls.
Visiting Ahnd Atoll / Permission & Protected Areas
Because Ahnd is a privately owned island and UNESCO marine biosphere reserve permission is required from the Nanpei family for visits.
Contact LP Gas at +691.320.5661 / 2675 to make arrangements.
Core area(s) comprise a strictly protected ecosystem that contributes to the conservation of landscapes, ecosystems, species, and genetic variation.
A buffer zone surrounds or adjoins the core areas, and is used for activities compatible with sound ecological practices that can reinforce scientific research, monitoring, training, and education.
The transition area is the part of the reserve where the greatest activity is allowed, fostering economic and human development that is socio-culturally and ecologically sustainable.
Olouna (“Bird Island”)
Landing on Olouna island is prohibited to prevent disruption of the habitats of the seabirds who nest there. If you’d like to take a look at Olouna, consider making a kayak trip around it. You can arrange to pay your boat extra to transport a small ocean kayak or two.
Pakin Atoll
Pakin Atoll is composed of about 16 low islands, 13.6 km2 of reef, and a lagoon of 11 km2. It lies 38 km (24 mi) northwest of Palikir. In the early 1900s, Sokehs residents of Mortlockese descent were allowed to settle on the atoll, where their descendents (about 80) live to this day. Most of the islands are sparsely inhabited and all have excellent beaches, swimming, and nearby snorkeling.
One complication of visiting, however, is that Pakin has no true passage, making entry into the lagoon impossible for large boats and both difficult and dangerous for small boats. Boats enter at high tide at one of two places in the barrier reef (the usual spot is known as Uhrek), where the coral is slightly deeper than elsewhere — by a matter of a few inches. The crossing is narrow and complicated by strong surge. Except at the highest tides, the crossing must be carefully timed to correspond with the surge. Boats can easily capsize in the surf or be thrown up on the reef; several locals have been killed at the spot while trying to make the crossing in less than ideal conditions. When planning a visit, make sure that you hire an experienced pilot who knows this particular crossing and is committed to the safety of his passengers. Also, it is important to plan arrivals and departures to coincide with the highest tides.
All of the diving and the best snorkeling is on the reef wall outside the lagoon, where water clarity and reef conditions are simply mind-blowing. The wall north of Nikahlap is known for sharks, while the opposite side of the island is home to large schools barracuda. For sea turtle sightings, divers will want to try the walls on the northeast side. Turtles nest on many of the small islets north of Painpwel, Sapangin, Kehrot, and Osetik.
Pakin has similar features and conditions as And, except that the atoll has no true passage into the lagoon — which is limiting. Divers will mostly want to stay outside the lagoon. Small boats can enter only at high tide at one of two locations along the west side of the barrier reef. Both of these spots are sketchy with very narrow areas to maneuver, extremely shallow conditions, and dangerous currents and surge. Local residents have been killed attempting to enter when the conditions were less than ideal. The reefs on the west side drop off extremely deep — straight down. Hard coral and excellent visibility (often exceeding 60 meters) can be found all around the outside and in the lagoon as well. Most of the sites offer the same sorts of attractions, including large pelagic species, barracuda, jacks, tuna, whitetip and blacktip reef sharks, and sea turtles. Diving at Pakin is possible from May through October, but the best conditions are usually September-October.
“Turtle Gardens”
The many small islets around Painpwel, Sapangin, and Kehrot are nesting sites for sea turtles. Consequently, the outer reef wall northwest of Painpwel is famous for turtle sightings. Best at 10-35 meters.. Advanced.
“Barracuda Cove”
As the name suggests, this spot on the edge of the reef wall southwest of Nikahlap (Island) is a good place to see large schools of barracudas (among other things). Best at 10-30 meters.. Advanced.
“Barracude Cove” is inside an MPA and requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
“Shark Bay”
This drift follows the reef wall north of Nikahlap (island) and is known for large congregations of reef sharks and occasional oceanic species. Best at 18-40 meters.. Advanced.
“Shark Bay” is inside an MPA and requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
“East Wall,” “Mwahnid Wall” & “West Wall”
These are all outer reef drift-dives that can offer everything from fabulous hard and soft coral colonies and macro-life to large pelagics, sharks, eagle rays, and turtles. “East Wall” is east of Olamwun (Island), “Mwahnid Wall” is south of Mwahnid (Island), and “West Wall” is east of the primary point of entrance into the lagoon. Best at 18-40 meters.. Advanced.
“Mwahnid Wall” is inside an MPA and requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
We’d like to extend a big kalahngan to Mike Viti, John Ranahan, and Karino Olpet for sharing their in-depth, first-hand knowledge about SCUBA diving on Pohnpei — without which this page could not have been created. Images licensed from www.shutterstock.com.
And has steep outer reef walls that drop off into very deep conditions, especially on the west side. Currents can be swift anywhere outside the lagoon and in Dauenai (Pass), but particularly on the east wall. Visibility can reach 50 meters (164 feet). You’ll need a boat to get to all of the dive sites except “Turtle Canyons,” which you can access from the beach at Pahn Mwek (island). The channel between Pohnpei and And is notoriously rough during the winter. Diving at And is possible from May through October, but the best conditions are usually September-October.
“Bird Island”
This drift begins on the outer reef corner north of Olouna (nicknamed “Bird Island” for its huge seabird rookery) and goes south. Sharks, tuna, barracuda, turtles, and other large pelagic species may be seen. Best at 18-40 meters. Advanced.
“West Wall”
This drift runs either way along the western outer reef wall and features lots of hard and soft coral variety, caves, tunnels, holes, reef fish, and sharks. Best at 18-40 meters. Advanced.
“Turtle Canyons”
This spot in the lagoon north of Pahn Mwek (island) features shallow coral grottoes, lots of reef fish, and a strong likelihood of sea turtle sightings. Best at 10-23 meters on a late in-coming tide. Novice.
“Triggerfish Cove”
This is a spot on the outer reef wall south of Sakarawi (Island) known for triggerfish. Best at 18-40 meters. Advanced.
“Orange Wall / West Dauenai”
This drift begins outside and to the west of Dauenai (passage) and then follows the west wall of the passage north into the lagoon. The spot gets its nickname from the large orange elephant ear sponges that are prevalent along the wall, but this is a great place to see And’s gray reef sharks, a lot of beautiful hard and soft corals, and macro-life. Best at 18-40 meters on an in-coming tide. Advanced.
“Dauenai Pass (East)”
This drift begins outside and to the east of Dauenai (passage) and then follows the eastern passage wall north into the lagoon, featuring huge groupers, wrasse, turtles, rays, congregations of gray reef sharks, whitetip and blacktip reef sharks, large schools of barracuda, jacks, and occasionally billfish or dolphins around the mouth. Best at 18-40 meters on an in-coming tide. Advanced.
“Itol Rock”
This is a spot on the outer eastern reef wall between Pasa (island) and Nikahlap (island), which is sometimes considered part of the next drift-dive on this list. Soft coral, rays, and lots of pelagics are to be seen here. Currents can be intense. Best at 18-40 meters. Advanced.
“Nikahlap Wall”
This is a drift-dive starting at “Itol Rock” and running south along the contour of the reef wall. See Itol Rock for features. Currents can be very strong. Best at 18-40 meters. Advanced.
“Pasa North”
This is a drift-dive running in either direction along the outer reef wall north of Pasa (island) and featuring the usual And Atoll gamut of large pelagics, turtles, and sharks as well as blossoming coral on the wall. There are often strong currents here. Best at 18-40 meters. Advanced.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
We’d like to extend a big kalahngan to Mike Viti, John Ranahan, and Karino Olpet for sharing their in-depth, first-hand knowledge about SCUBA diving on Pohnpei — without which this page could not have been created. Images licensed from www.shutterstock.com.
This small reserve covers an area of 1.39 km2 and includes the pristine mangrove forests around Pwudoi (north of Dolen Uh) and some of the adjacent lagoon and fringing reef. There are two major mangrove channels that run through the sanctuary. One goes 0.69 km (0.43 mi) up to Pilen Seleur — the same watercourse where the eel pools are located. The other channel is 0.61 km (0.38 mi) long. Both are excellent, scenic paddles with plenty of seabirds to scope out. The launch at Seinwar is a good point of access for this area.
Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
Mangrove Channels & Coastline
Western Kitti doesn’t have an abundance of long mangrove channels to paddle through, but it does have lots of smaller ones. The best of these are in the north. One interesting loop cuts around a chunk of mangrove forest, combining the 0.68 km (0.42 mi) of Dauen Tomwara with another 0.7 km (0.44 mi) segment. Another loop encircles Kiparalap Island with a 0.48 km (0.3 mi) segment through the mangroves. If you put in near the Sakartik Stream bridge (Pilen Sakartik), you can also experience this 0.89 km (0.55 mi) channel leading to the lagoon. Dauen Nansakar offers another 0.83 km (0.52 mi) of channel to explore.
Nearby Islands
Two single islands in the north — Kiparalap and Pohn Lahpar — and two island chains make great destinations for paddlers. You can get to the coast of Kiparalap from the south side and Pohn Lahpar from the east side. Otherwise, both islands are surrounded by mangrove forests. A string of small islands and mangrove clumps on the barrier reef south of Dauahk Passage (Kepidauen Dauahk) are roughly 5.5 km (3.42 mi) west of the community launch in Dien. It’s a fairly long paddle, but the islands make a nice spot for a rest and some lunch. The snorkeling on the inner reef walls in the area is sublime. Finally, the beautiful islands of Kehpara and “Black Coral” lie 6.58 km (4.1 mi) southwest of the Seinwar launch. There are primitive shelters on both islands for camping and incredible snorkeling in the pass that runs between. Kehpara has a beautiful white sand beach at one end.
Visit the Islands page for more information about Kehpara and Black Coral islands and how to book huts for overnight stays in either location.
Entering Kehpara MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
If Nan Madol is your primary destination, the southern route around Temwen is the shortest, following the tranquil passage of Dauen Moahk (a meditative way to begin or end the day). Note, however, that east-bound passage under the two bridges at Temwen Causeway is extremely difficult or impossible when the tide is coming in. The current flowing into the bay can be as powerful as a river.
Temwen Island Circumnavigation
For people that want an upper-body workout, the 8.9 km (5.3 mi) paddle around Temwen is an interesting journey with a variety of different sights along the way. Be informed on the tides before starting as the reefs on the northeast and northwest sides are only inches deep at low tide.
Heading north, there are wonderful views of scenic (but murky) Madolenihmw Bay and nearby Takaiuh and Nahnpahlap hills. Peipas Island, a man-made basalt burial structure that is probably related to Nan Madol, is hidden among the mangroves of Temwen’s western coast. Further on, stony Salong Point juts north almost to the edge of the channel. Unusual eroded rock formations and a complete lack of mangroves make the place visually unique and worth a look. There’s also a small sea-cave and a portal in the topography that frames conical Takaiuh. Depending on tides and recent rain, the sheltered bay east of the point is sometimes a nice place for a dip, though there isn’t enough coral in the area for snorkeling.
The segment between Salong Point and the Japanese Wharf can be a challenging paddle as Kepidauen Deleur is known for its rough water. This is apparently due to two seamounts in the area, called Mwudokendil and Mwudokensepehl. From the Japanese Wharf, it’s another 1.4 km (0.87 mi) to Nan Douwas. Enter the ruins from the north between Temwen and Peniot.
On the southern side of Temwen, you have the choice of several different channels through the mangroves, though all except Dauen Moahk are heavily silted in and impassable at low tide. The two largest islands between Temwen and Pohnpei — Mwudokalap and Mwudoketik — both host prehistoric stone structures related to Nan Madol. The former was the place where Isokelekel first encountered his estranged son, Nahlepenien, who would eventually become the first Nahnken and later the Nahnmwarki of U.
Nahnningi & Mall Islands
South of Temwen are Nahnningi(believed to be a man-made island from the Nan Madol era) and Mall islands. The latter has a stone tomb at the northern end. The Namwen Nahnningi Stingray Sanctuary lies northwest of the islands.
Visit the Islands page for more information about these locations.
Other Islands
Five islands are found northeast of Temwen at the edge of the massive reef shelf called Mad Pahra. Nahpali is littered with Japanese-era historical sites and has a couple of nice sandy beaches. Little Dekehmwahu also has a nice, secluded beach, but to get to it, you’ll have to paddle around Nahpali’s southern side. Na island’s nicest coasts are on the north side. The same is true of Dekehtik. Nahkapw is a little apart from the others with easy access to the best snorkeling in the area.
Visit the Islands page for more information about these locations.
Pahn Nahkapw & Kahnimweiso
The deep water between Nan Madol and Nahkapw at first appears to be a wide channel leading to the open ocean, but may in fact be something called a “blue hole.” It has been hypothesized that this trench is actually a collapsed portion of the reef shelf. Pohnpei oral histories speak of another stone city, called Kahnimweiso, that pre-dated Nan Madol and was said to lie where Pahn Nakapw is now. One theory proposes that the weight of the basalt constructions coupled with the undermining of the limestone reef shelf by freshwater run-off, could have caused a collapse and sent Kahnimweiso plummeting 65 meters to the bottom. When you see how the sandy shore at Nahkapw’s north end drops straight off into deep blue or experience the odd currents in the area, it’s not hard to believe that the site is special. To date, the theories have not been properly tested and Pahn Nahkapw has retained its secrets and its eerie feel.
Nan Madol
If coming from the south, enter the ruins through Dauen Moahk, the first mangrove channel encountered (high tide only). The first stops include Pahn Kadira and Kelepwel islets. From there, you can venture northeast up the canal to Peikapw, Idehd, Dorong, and Peneiring. Further north, notable sites include Kerian, Peikapw Sapwawas, Dau, Pahn Douwas, Pohn Douwas, Nan Douwas, and Konderek. On the return trip south, catch Lemenkau and adjacent Namwenkau (pool) and the huge boulder wall of Pahnwi at the southwest corner. The upper portion of Mweiden Kitti is silted in and nearly closed off by encroaching mangrove trees; it’s impassable even at high tide. All of the entrances on Madol Pah‘s southwest perimeter are now dead-ends, but provide nice sandy spots to picnic.
From the north, it’s easiest to enter Nan Madol at Dauen Nankieilmwahu between Temwen and Peniot islet — especially when surge and choppy seas in Pahn Nahkapw make the narrow gap at Nan Mwoluhsei too risky.
Paddling Distances Around Temwen Island
Starting
Ending
Distance (km)
Distance (mi)
MERIP
—-
Temwen Causeway
0.59 km
0.37 mi
Temwen Causeway
—-
Pahn Kadira islet*
1.7 km
1.0 mi
Dauen Moahk
—-
Pahnwi islet
0.89 km
0.55 mi
Pahnwi islet
—-
Lemenkau islet*
0.58 km
0.36 mi
Lemenkau islet
—-
Dorong islet*
0.62 km
0.39 mi
Lemenkau islet
—-
Peinering islet*
0.39 km
0.25 mi
Peinering islet
—-
Kerian islet*
0.42 km
0.26 mi
Peinering islet
—-
Nan Douwas islet*
0.41 km
0.25 mi
MERIP
—-
Salong Point
2.2 km
1.37 mi
Salong Point
—-
Japanese Wharf
1.0 km
0.64 mi
Japanese Wharf
—-
Nan Douwas islet*
1.4 km
0.87 mi
Japanese Wharf
—-
Nahpali Island
2.63 km
1.63 mi
Nahpali Island
—-
Dekehmwahu Island
2.00 km
1.5 mi
Kerian islet
—-
Nahkapw Island
0.89 km
0.55 mi
Nahkapw Island
—-
Dekehtik Island
0.52 km
0.32 mi
Dekehtik Island
—-
Northern Na Island
2.9 km
1.8 mi
Northern Na Island
—-
Dekehmwahu Island
0.77 km
0.48 mi
Mweiden Kitti
—-
Nahnningi Island
0.69 km
0.43 mi
Nahnningi Island
—-
Mall Island
0.42 km
0.26 mi
*Silted-in estuary. This segment may be difficult or impossible to traverse at low tide.