Mall is located just to the south of Nahnningi, and though it looks larger, about half of the island’s area is mangroves. The most interesting feature on Mall (also known as ‘Small Island’) is a prehistoric stone tomb located at the north end. According to oral history, the island was home to two brothers named Semen Pwei Tikitik and Semen Pwei Lapalap. Dissatisfied with the greed of the reigning Saudeleur, the brothers left Pohnpei and sailed for another land. Only the younger of the two survived the journey. Eventually, Semen Pwei Tikitik returned, armed with the knowledge he’d gathered during his travels. He went to Nan Madol and shared what he’d learned about the more egalitarian culture he’d visited. The Saudeleur, however, refused to see reason, so Semen Pwei Tikitik killed him. Unfortunately, the assassination did not end the dynasty and the dead Sau was soon replace by a new leader.
To obtain permission to visit, call William Hawley — the Rosa — at +691.320.2111 / 5050. Or contact the family run business, LP Gas, and inquire about visiting the island +691.320.5661 / 2675
Nahnningi is known by most as “Joy Island”. There used to be a popular camping operation there in the 1990s, but for many years the island was not open to tourists. Recently it has become available again, but even more developed and open for both locals and tourists. The island is now called Para Nuii and is home to one of Pohnpei’s best picnic spots. The appeal of the island has to do with the shallow sandy areas around it, which are great for swimming and stingray-watching (beaches form at low tide) as well as housing situation. Para Nuii has fully furnished bungalows that stretch our from the northern end of the island. It is definitely “higher class” than most housing situations on the other islands, however because of this it does come with a steeper price tag than the other lagoon islands. There’s good snorkeling and SCUBA diving to the northeast along the outer reef and at a small channel near Mall. The Namwen Nahnningi Stingray Sanctuary is also within a close distance of the island.
Most archaeologists agree that Nahnningi is man-made and was constructed during the Nan Madol Period (it’s square and has low columnar basalt walls around much of its coastline). Purchase the Temwen Vicinity Eco-Adventure Map Guide for detailed maps and additional info.
To book a reservation for Para Nuii contact One World Plaza’s office located on the 1st floor of One World Plaza building or via their website listed below.
Beyond Pohnpei’s lagoon, the closest land to be found exists on two “satellite atolls” called Ahnd (pronounced änt) and Pakin (pä.keen). An atoll is made up of a number of coralline islets in a ring around a relatively shallow lagoon and is created when a high, volcanic island submerges over millions of years, leaving only the reef that fringed its shores. The islands form as sand, coral rubble, and other detritus collect on the reef and begin to support trees, small plants, and animals. Coral sand accumulates on the lagoon sides of the islands and creates beaches.
Ahnd (“Ant”) Atoll
Ahnd Atoll, popularly but erroneously spelled “Ant,” is 16 km (8 mi) southwest of Rohnkitti and consists of 13 low, luxuriant islands 3-4 meters above sea-level and a lagoon of 70 km2 entered by a single passage in the reef.
When the larger-than-life hero Isokelekel voyaged to Pohnpei, intent on overthrowing the rulers of Nan Madol, he came first to Ahnd and lived there for some time, learning about Pohnpeian customs from its inhabitants. In modern times, the entire atoll became the property of a single Pohnpeian family — the descendents of Henry Nanpei, who lived from 1862 to 1928. Nanpei’s shrewd business sense and knack for manipulating local power politics enabled him to acquire the atoll and amass a great deal of other land.
Ahnd Atoll Channel
Black tip reef sharks at Ahnd Atoll (PC: Tia Panuelo)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Imwen Sapw Island and channel entrance
Today Ahnd has a few human residents, the biosphere rangers who make sure people do not fish within the protected area. There is also resort run by the Nanpei family located on the island of Pasa (information for booking trips can be found below).
It is home to some of the largest colonies of black noddies, terns, boobies, and frigatebirds in the Pacific as well as a healthy community of gray reef sharks in and around Dauenai (passage).
The most interesting islands to camp on are Pasa, Nikahlap, Dolen Mwuroi, and Nahlos. The former two have long stretches of deserted white-sand beach and excellent swimming. Nan Imwinsapw is closest to Dauenai (passage), where all the best snorkeling and the most accessible diving is found, but it has a big rat problem. Pahn Mwek is near to both excellent snorkeling and some of the rare diving that exists inside the lagoon. For the most part, however, the lagoon is the domain of snorkelers, sandy and punctuated by beautiful coral heads with lots of color and life at low tide.
Dauenai on the south side is where most people go to SCUBA dive. It is known for orange sponges (on the west wall) and large numbers of barracudas, jacks, and sharks throughout. Reef fish populations around the pass, unfortunately, have declined in the last two decades, but hopefully will recover now that the area is protected. Even so, the place still feels busy compared to other locations and you’ll see all the familiar species — unicornfish, triggerfish, wrasses, surgeons, groupers, butterflyfish, angelfish, moorish idols, and more. Moray eels might be spotted on occasion. Spinner dolphins are regularly seen at the mouth of the passage and in the waters around Ahnd. Visibility in the pass, though not as spectacular as outside the reef, can reach 50 meters (164 feet) — certainly nothing to complain about.
In addition to drift-dives on either side of the deep passage, there is stunning (and frequently overlooked) diving on the outer wall of the barrier reef on the northwest side near Olouna (often known as “bird island” for the huge colonies of seabirds that nest there), and north of Pasa. The west wall of the barrier reef plummets to great depths, and because it is more protected from the northeasterly winds and waves, it is marked by an abundance of soft coral, holes, tunnels, and caves — an exciting place for any advanced diver. Giant clams are also common. Visibility on the outside edges can be extraordinary, exceeding 70 meters (230 feet). Currents can be swift both in the pass and around the outer walls.
Visiting Ahnd Atoll / Permission & Protected Areas
Because Ahnd is a privately owned island and UNESCO marine biosphere reserve permission is required from the Nanpei family for visits.
Contact LP Gas at +691.320.5661 / 2675 to make arrangements.
Core area(s) comprise a strictly protected ecosystem that contributes to the conservation of landscapes, ecosystems, species, and genetic variation.
A buffer zone surrounds or adjoins the core areas, and is used for activities compatible with sound ecological practices that can reinforce scientific research, monitoring, training, and education.
The transition area is the part of the reserve where the greatest activity is allowed, fostering economic and human development that is socio-culturally and ecologically sustainable.
Olouna (“Bird Island”)
Landing on Olouna island is prohibited to prevent disruption of the habitats of the seabirds who nest there. If you’d like to take a look at Olouna, consider making a kayak trip around it. You can arrange to pay your boat extra to transport a small ocean kayak or two.
Pakin Atoll
Pakin Atoll is composed of about 16 low islands, 13.6 km2 of reef, and a lagoon of 11 km2. It lies 38 km (24 mi) northwest of Palikir. In the early 1900s, Sokehs residents of Mortlockese descent were allowed to settle on the atoll, where their descendents (about 80) live to this day. Most of the islands are sparsely inhabited and all have excellent beaches, swimming, and nearby snorkeling.
One complication of visiting, however, is that Pakin has no true passage, making entry into the lagoon impossible for large boats and both difficult and dangerous for small boats. Boats enter at high tide at one of two places in the barrier reef (the usual spot is known as Uhrek), where the coral is slightly deeper than elsewhere — by a matter of a few inches. The crossing is narrow and complicated by strong surge. Except at the highest tides, the crossing must be carefully timed to correspond with the surge. Boats can easily capsize in the surf or be thrown up on the reef; several locals have been killed at the spot while trying to make the crossing in less than ideal conditions. When planning a visit, make sure that you hire an experienced pilot who knows this particular crossing and is committed to the safety of his passengers. Also, it is important to plan arrivals and departures to coincide with the highest tides.
All of the diving and the best snorkeling is on the reef wall outside the lagoon, where water clarity and reef conditions are simply mind-blowing. The wall north of Nikahlap is known for sharks, while the opposite side of the island is home to large schools barracuda. For sea turtle sightings, divers will want to try the walls on the northeast side. Turtles nest on many of the small islets north of Painpwel, Sapangin, Kehrot, and Osetik.
