Marine Protected Areas (MPA), Sanctuaries, and Forest Reserves
Pohnpei Island currently has thirteen marine protected areas, including three mangrove forest reserves and two stingray sanctuaries. Additionally, Pakin Atoll has five of its own MPAs and all of Ahnd Atoll is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
If you wish to visit a MPA it is best to work with a tour operators as they have the necessary permits that allow entry into these MPAs and biosphere reserves.
Current MPAs
Sapwtik MPA
Sapwtik Marine Protected Area is a 0.83 km2 (0.32 mi2) area encompassing Sapwtik (island), portions of its fringing reef, and sections of the lagoon southwest and northeast of the island.
Dekehos (Mwahnd) MPA
Dekehos Marine Protected Area is a 4.60 km2 (1.78 mi2) area encompassing Mwahnd Passage (Kepidauen Mwahnd) and portions of the barrier reef north of the pass and to the south as far as the fringing reef of Mwahnd Peidak (island).
Dehpehk MPA
Dehpehk Marine Protected Area is a 2.12 km2 (0.82 mi2) area encompassing the eastern and northern coasts of Dehpehk (island) and adjacent fringing reefs.
Nanwap MPA
Nanwap Marine Protected Area is a 3.05 km2 (1.18 mi2) section of the barrier reef and adjacent lagoon areas north of the Madolenihmw Bay passage (Kepidauen Deleur).
Senipehn Mangrove Forest Reserve
Senipehn Mangrove Forest Reserve is a 1.30 km2 (0.5 mi2) area of mangrove forest surrounding Dauen Sapwalap in Madolenihmw.
Namwen Na Stingray Sanctuary
Namwen Na Stingray Sanctuary is a 0.71 km2 (0.27 mi2) area encompassing both shallow reef and deep water areas located north of Na (island) and south of Nahpali (island).
Namwen Nahnningi Stingray Sanctuary
Namwen Nahnningi Stingray Sanctuary is a 0.34 km2 (0.13 mi2) area encompassing four large reef pools and the adjacent reefs northwest of Nahnningi (island).
Nahtik MPA
Nahtik Marine Protected Area is a 0.75 km2 (0.29 mi2) area encompassing Nahtik (island) and all fringing reefs.
Enipein Mangrove Reserve
Enipein Mangrove Reserve is a 9.55 km2 (3.69 mi2) area of mangrove forest located in Enipein, Kitti.
Kehpara MPA
Kehpara Marine Protected Area is a 1.89 km2 (0.73 mi2) area encompassing the three Namwmwour barrier reef islands (including Kehpara) and large sections of the barrier reef both north, south, and east of the islands. This area is completely closed to diving and snorkeling from January 1 to June 30 every year.
Pwudoi Mangrove Sanctuary
Pwudoi Mangrove Sanctuary is a 1.39 km2 (0.52 mi2) area encompassing large sections of mangrove forest in Pwudoi, Kitti, as well as adjacent fringing reefs and portions of the lagoon.
Wahulap MPA
Wahulap Marine Protected Area on Pakin Atoll encompasses Nikahlap Island and all surrounding reefs.
Painpwel MPA
Painpwel Marine Protected Area on Pakin Atoll encompasses Painpwel Island, a number of tiny islands off the north coast where sea turtles nest, and all surrounding reefs.
Palikir MPA
Palikir Marine Protected Area is one of Pohnpei’s largest inner-lagoon sanctuaries. It stretches from the shore of Palikir all the way to Palikir Pass. It is also one of Pohnpei’s most successful MPA’s and in 2020 efforts were made expand the MPA’s borders.
Sapangin MPA
Sapangin Marine Protected Area on Pakin Atoll encompasses Sapangin Island, several tiny islets to the north where sea turtles nest, and all surrounding reefs.
Kehrot MPA
Kehrot Marine Protected Area on Pakin Atoll encompasses Kehrot Island, many tiny islets to the northeast where sea turtles nest, and all surrounding reefs.
Mwahnid MPA
Mwahnid Marine Protected Area on Pakin Atoll encompasses Mwahnid Island and all surrounding reefs.
Nahnningi is known by most as “Joy Island”. There used to be a popular camping operation there in the 1990s, but for many years the island was not open to tourists. Recently it has become available again, but even more developed and open for both locals and tourists. The island is now called Para Nuii and is home to one of Pohnpei’s best picnic spots. The appeal of the island has to do with the shallow sandy areas around it, which are great for swimming and stingray-watching (beaches form at low tide) as well as housing situation. Para Nuii has fully furnished bungalows that stretch our from the northern end of the island. It is definitely “higher class” than most housing situations on the other islands, however because of this it does come with a steeper price tag than the other lagoon islands. There’s good snorkeling and SCUBA diving to the northeast along the outer reef and at a small channel near Mall. The Namwen Nahnningi Stingray Sanctuary is also within a close distance of the island.
Most archaeologists agree that Nahnningi is man-made and was constructed during the Nan Madol Period (it’s square and has low columnar basalt walls around much of its coastline). Purchase the Temwen Vicinity Eco-Adventure Map Guide for detailed maps and additional info.
To book a reservation for Para Nuii contact One World Plaza’s office located on the 1st floor of One World Plaza building or via their website listed below.
Ros is another beautiful uninhabited reef island in the south. The long, skinny island seems to be slowly disappearing as it erodes, but there are huge areas of wonderful sand on the west side to lounge about on and a narrow belt of trees. It’s mostly notable as a destination for paddlers, taking a break from exploring mangrove forests nearby, or SCUBA enthusiasts, resting between dives (Kepidauen Ros is one of two locations on Pohnpei famous for manta rays). There is good swimming and snorkeling a few kicks from the island.
For permission to visit or camp on the island, call +691.320.5896 or the Kitti Municipal Government Office at +691.320.5038, 320.5808, 320.5049, or 320.3257.
Nahlap, owned by former FSM congressman John David, has become one of the most popular lagoon island get-aways in Pohnpei State largely because it’s easy to get to, affordable, and has lots of huts for visitors. There are two docks, several stilt huts out over the water for lounging around and taking in the scenery, a volleyball court, and a variety of picnic spots. The island also has a small chapel on it located further in from the picnic area. They also have wifi on the island but only in a certain area and not across the whole island. The island is large, shady, and quite pleasant. Though the surrounding ocean is dominated by mangroves and seagrass, there are places on the far side and around the docks with good snorkeling. The southeast coast has some shady beaches at low tide (the best is in front of the tiny chapel) and rope swings for the kids. The turn-off for the launch at Sekeren Iap is about 21 km west and south of Kolonia. Continue past the Henry Nanpei memorial and the Rohnkitti Church all the way to the end of the road.
To make reservations or arrange for a boat taxi from Sekeren Iap in Rohnkitti, call +691.320.2776. Or call the Kitti Municipal Government Office at +691.320.5038, 320.5808, 320.5049, or 320.3257 and ask for assistance.
Dekehtik, which means “small island”, also called Sand Island is an uninhabited coral islet west of Na, of which it was once a part (not be confused with the island of the same name on which the airport is located). The north coast is most suitable for camping with some sandy beaches at low tide and stunningly clear water for swimming and ogling the many stingrays in the area. There are huts on the island for people to stay in while on the island. The island is currently owned by the Adams family (the proprietors of Ace Hardware and Ace Office Supply). The best snorkeling is northwest of the island along the edge of the deep, blue hole of Pahn Nahkapw. The island itself is characterized by thickets of shrubby vegetation and coconut palms. Sandy beaches form on the north coast at low tide.
To make reservations for day visits or night stays and to arrange boat transport call ACE at +691.320.8279 / 5637.
Dekehtik in the foreground, Na Island in the background (PC: Lee Arkhie Perez)
Deketihk Island with Nahkapw Island in the background. (PC: Lee Arkhie Perez)
Though not as developed as Black Coral the small thatched huts are adequate for camping trips, the island is equally as shady and much larger than Black Coral, and it actually offers easier access to the excellent snorkeling around Kehpara Pass. It’s cheaper, too. At low tide, there’s a beautiful sandy beach between the two islands. The island has solar lights set up around the island to provide some light at night however we recommend bringing along a lantern and some flashlights to help illuminate inside the huts since they are not rigged with lights.
To make reservations for day visits or overnight stays and arrange for boat pick-up from the launch behind Seinwar Elementary School, call Nickson Abraham (Oaun Kitti) at +691.925.5340 / +691.920.8081 or the Kitti Municipal Government Office at +691.320.5038, 320.5808, 320.5049, or 320.3257.
Black Coral (top island) and Kehpara (bottom island)
“Black Coral” is the southernmost islet in the Namwmour chain of islands that straddles Kehpara Pass (Dauen Kehpara) on the southwest corner of Pohnpei’s barrier reef. It’s true name is said to be Kehpara, but hardly anyone calls it that. Instead, Kehpara is usually used to refer to the island on the opposite side of the pass (island on lower right side of top image). In the mid-1600s, the conquering hero, Isokelekel, first entered Pohnpei’s barrier reef through Kehpara Pass on his way from Ahnd Atoll to Nan Madol. The sandy and well-shaded coral island, which lies within the Kehpara Marine Protected Area (MPA), is currently owned by the Adams family (the proprietors of Ace Hardware and Ace Office Supply). Black Coral is immaculately maintained with serpentine footpaths running here and there through large sprawling trees and several simple, wooden huts for overnight camping. Good snorkeling is located off the eastern shore and in the pass to the north, where white-tip and black-tip reef sharks, spotted eagle rays, and other marine wonders can often be seen. The best SCUBA diving is along the outer edge of the barrier reef north of the pass, a spot called Kehpara Wall. The area is a spawning ground for several varieties of protected grouper. Though some sandy areas appear at low tide along the inner coast, Black Coral doesn’t have any true beaches.
To make reservations for day visits or night stays and to arrange boat transport from the Seinwar Launch behind Seinwar Elementary School call ACE at +691.320.8279 / 5637.
PC: Lee Arkhie Perez
Black Coral from above. (PC: Lee Arkhie Perez)
Black coral on the left, Kehpara on the right. (PC: Lee Arkhie Perez)
Black Coral (top island) and Kehpara (bottom island)
Beyond Pohnpei’s lagoon, the closest land to be found exists on two “satellite atolls” called Ahnd (pronounced änt) and Pakin (pä.keen). An atoll is made up of a number of coralline islets in a ring around a relatively shallow lagoon and is created when a high, volcanic island submerges over millions of years, leaving only the reef that fringed its shores. The islands form as sand, coral rubble, and other detritus collect on the reef and begin to support trees, small plants, and animals. Coral sand accumulates on the lagoon sides of the islands and creates beaches.
Ahnd (“Ant”) Atoll
Ahnd Atoll, popularly but erroneously spelled “Ant,” is 16 km (8 mi) southwest of Rohnkitti and consists of 13 low, luxuriant islands 3-4 meters above sea-level and a lagoon of 70 km2 entered by a single passage in the reef.
When the larger-than-life hero Isokelekel voyaged to Pohnpei, intent on overthrowing the rulers of Nan Madol, he came first to Ahnd and lived there for some time, learning about Pohnpeian customs from its inhabitants. In modern times, the entire atoll became the property of a single Pohnpeian family — the descendents of Henry Nanpei, who lived from 1862 to 1928. Nanpei’s shrewd business sense and knack for manipulating local power politics enabled him to acquire the atoll and amass a great deal of other land.
Ahnd Atoll Channel
Black tip reef sharks at Ahnd Atoll (PC: Tia Panuelo)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Imwen Sapw Island and channel entrance
Today Ahnd has a few human residents, the biosphere rangers who make sure people do not fish within the protected area. There is also resort run by the Nanpei family located on the island of Pasa (information for booking trips can be found below).
It is home to some of the largest colonies of black noddies, terns, boobies, and frigatebirds in the Pacific as well as a healthy community of gray reef sharks in and around Dauenai (passage).
The most interesting islands to camp on are Pasa, Nikahlap, Dolen Mwuroi, and Nahlos. The former two have long stretches of deserted white-sand beach and excellent swimming. Nan Imwinsapw is closest to Dauenai (passage), where all the best snorkeling and the most accessible diving is found, but it has a big rat problem. Pahn Mwek is near to both excellent snorkeling and some of the rare diving that exists inside the lagoon. For the most part, however, the lagoon is the domain of snorkelers, sandy and punctuated by beautiful coral heads with lots of color and life at low tide.
Dauenai on the south side is where most people go to SCUBA dive. It is known for orange sponges (on the west wall) and large numbers of barracudas, jacks, and sharks throughout. Reef fish populations around the pass, unfortunately, have declined in the last two decades, but hopefully will recover now that the area is protected. Even so, the place still feels busy compared to other locations and you’ll see all the familiar species — unicornfish, triggerfish, wrasses, surgeons, groupers, butterflyfish, angelfish, moorish idols, and more. Moray eels might be spotted on occasion. Spinner dolphins are regularly seen at the mouth of the passage and in the waters around Ahnd. Visibility in the pass, though not as spectacular as outside the reef, can reach 50 meters (164 feet) — certainly nothing to complain about.
In addition to drift-dives on either side of the deep passage, there is stunning (and frequently overlooked) diving on the outer wall of the barrier reef on the northwest side near Olouna (often known as “bird island” for the huge colonies of seabirds that nest there), and north of Pasa. The west wall of the barrier reef plummets to great depths, and because it is more protected from the northeasterly winds and waves, it is marked by an abundance of soft coral, holes, tunnels, and caves — an exciting place for any advanced diver. Giant clams are also common. Visibility on the outside edges can be extraordinary, exceeding 70 meters (230 feet). Currents can be swift both in the pass and around the outer walls.
Visiting Ahnd Atoll / Permission & Protected Areas
Because Ahnd is a privately owned island and UNESCO marine biosphere reserve permission is required from the Nanpei family for visits.
Contact LP Gas at +691.320.5661 / 2675 to make arrangements.
Core area(s) comprise a strictly protected ecosystem that contributes to the conservation of landscapes, ecosystems, species, and genetic variation.
A buffer zone surrounds or adjoins the core areas, and is used for activities compatible with sound ecological practices that can reinforce scientific research, monitoring, training, and education.
The transition area is the part of the reserve where the greatest activity is allowed, fostering economic and human development that is socio-culturally and ecologically sustainable.
Olouna (“Bird Island”)
Landing on Olouna island is prohibited to prevent disruption of the habitats of the seabirds who nest there. If you’d like to take a look at Olouna, consider making a kayak trip around it. You can arrange to pay your boat extra to transport a small ocean kayak or two.
Pakin Atoll
Pakin Atoll is composed of about 16 low islands, 13.6 km2 of reef, and a lagoon of 11 km2. It lies 38 km (24 mi) northwest of Palikir. In the early 1900s, Sokehs residents of Mortlockese descent were allowed to settle on the atoll, where their descendents (about 80) live to this day. Most of the islands are sparsely inhabited and all have excellent beaches, swimming, and nearby snorkeling.
One complication of visiting, however, is that Pakin has no true passage, making entry into the lagoon impossible for large boats and both difficult and dangerous for small boats. Boats enter at high tide at one of two places in the barrier reef (the usual spot is known as Uhrek), where the coral is slightly deeper than elsewhere — by a matter of a few inches. The crossing is narrow and complicated by strong surge. Except at the highest tides, the crossing must be carefully timed to correspond with the surge. Boats can easily capsize in the surf or be thrown up on the reef; several locals have been killed at the spot while trying to make the crossing in less than ideal conditions. When planning a visit, make sure that you hire an experienced pilot who knows this particular crossing and is committed to the safety of his passengers. Also, it is important to plan arrivals and departures to coincide with the highest tides.
All of the diving and the best snorkeling is on the reef wall outside the lagoon, where water clarity and reef conditions are simply mind-blowing. The wall north of Nikahlap is known for sharks, while the opposite side of the island is home to large schools barracuda. For sea turtle sightings, divers will want to try the walls on the northeast side. Turtles nest on many of the small islets north of Painpwel, Sapangin, Kehrot, and Osetik.
This Japanese operation specializes in SCUBA diving and has some very experienced staff, but caters primarily to Japanese tourists. Staff may not be very comfortable communicating in English with non-Japanese customers. Contact the club for details.
Nihco Surf at NIHCO Marine Park focuses mostly on surfing expeditions, but also rents kayaks to guests, and runs trips to Ahnd Atoll. Contact Wilbur Walter for details.
Pohnpei Surf and Dive Club’s specialty is obvious, but in addition to surfing and diving, the club has jetskis, stand-up paddleboards and a great fleet of reliable boats. They offer tours to Nan Madol ruins by car or boat, waterfalls, island hikes, snorkeling or dive trips at the best locations for that day based on weather, tides and season( like Manta Road, Ahnd Atoll and Pakin Atoll). Rental dive, snorkel or surf gear are also available for rent at the location. The Pohnpei Surf and Dive Club is the longest running tour operation in Pohnpei conveniently operating from Mangrove Bay Hotel. They do free hotel pickups if you are joining a tour.
You can also check out Pohnpei Surf and Dive Club’s reviews on Tripadvisor HERE.
Yvonne’s is just starting to get into the touring business and can arrange a limited number of trips to well-known sites, such as Nan Madol and some of the popular waterfalls around the island. Contact the hotel for details.
For information on reliable tour guides it is best to contact a tour operation (such as Pohnpei Surf Club) in order to get the best person for the specific activity you would like to do, whether it is a trek up into the mountains, a trip to the Nan Madol ruins, or something completely different.
PROS: They’re ultra-easy to take on and off. Your feet are completely exposed to the air and dry quickly.
CONS: When wet or muddy, your feet slide around from side to side and from front to back. Straps are often too weak to handle rough treatment and frequently break. Zories get sucked right off your feet in swift-moving water, mucky sand, or oozy mud. They have absolutely no traction capabilities. Your feet are completely unprotected.
THE VERDICT: Flip-flops are great when cruising around town or hanging on the boat or beach, and that’s about it.
Tennis Shoes
PROS: They’re light. They breathe better and tend to have more flexible soles than heavier footwear, allowing your feet marginally better traction. The toes, tops, and sides of your feet are better protected from scrapes and bangs than with sandals or FiveFingers.
CONS: Tennis shoes have no ankle support. They inevitably get soaked in Pohnpei’s wet environment, and once wet, your feet stay wet. Furthermore, the shoes aren’t going to dry out between hikes in the humidity — even on sunny days. Though soles are thinner and more flexible than hiking boots or Teva-style sport sandals, the type of sole material and tread varies from shoe to shoe. By and large, tennis shoes don’t have tread that performs well on wet rocks or muddy slopes — the most common type of terrain Pohnpei hikers encounter. Shoes are easily pulled right off your feet in deep mud.
THE VERDICT: Tennis shoes are fine for short, easy hikes on roads or well-established gravely trails.
Cloth Hiking Boots
PROS: They’re only slightly heavier than tennis shoes. Soles and tread tend to be better designed for hiking in rough terrain than tennis shoes or sandals. They provide good ankle support. Your feet and ankles are protected from scrapes and bangs.
CONS: Breath-ability is poor. Your feet get wet and stay wet. The thickness of the soles makes it harder for them to adhere to wet, curved surfaces, such as river rocks. The deeper tread is mostly ineffective in muddy conditions as the grooves simply fill with mud. Just like tennis shoes, in deep mud, they can be pulled right off your feet.
THE VERDICT: Cloth hiking boots aren’t particularly useful on an ultra-wet tropical island. It’s best to leave them at home.
Hard-Shell Hiking Boots
PROS: They provide maximum ankle support and foot and ankle protection.
CONS: They’re unnecessarily heavy and wear you out faster than lighter shoes. The soles are thick and inflexible — highly undesirable when crossing slick rocks in rivers or scrambling up muddy mountainsides. They aren’t breathable at all; even if they’re fully waterproofed, your feet will end up soaked by sweat anyway. They’re absolutely impossible to deal with in deep, oozy mud.
THE VERDICT: Hard-shell boots are a very poor choice for this environment.
Teva-Style Sport Sandals
PROS: The open-air style allows your feet the greatest opportunity to dry out. There are less places for sand and grit to get stuck.
CONS: Your toes, heels, and the sides of your feet are completely unprotected and can be battered by rocks and roots. When wet, feet tend to slide around on the sole. Blisters around the straps are problematic on anything but short hikes. The Velcro fasteners get caught on vines and other things and pulled open. The thick, inflexible soles are nearly as bad as hard-shell boots when it comes to traction. For footwear designed with rivers in mind, they’re remarkably poor at adhering to wet rocks slimed with algae. They tend to become mired in deep mud like what you find in mangrove swamps.
THE VERDICT: Sport sandals work well when paddling, walking around town, or doing short, relatively-flat hikes on roads or well-established trails.
FiveFingers
PROS: The revolutionary design concept centers around research that has shown that balance and traction are significantly improved by having the use of your toes and letting your feet flex and mold themselves to whatever surface they move across. Thin, soft soles allow maximum flexibility and adhere well to wet rocks and other surfaces. “Free” toes can dig into mud for better traction, and because they fit like a second skin, they won’t come off your feet. They’re ultra-light. Thin material or mesh allow your feet plenty of access to air.
CONS: There’s no ankle support and minimal protection from the environment; toes, feet, and ankles can take a brutal beating from rocks and roots. You can’t just jump right into things; you have to break in FiveFingers, take some time to allow your feet to get used to full contact with the terrain, and learn to walk with greater care and precision. They are designed to fit like a glove, and consequently, are very difficult to put on. In sandy conditions, grit gets inside the heels and rubs the skin raw.
OUR RECOMMENDATION: Despite a few disadvantages, FiveFingers out-performed every other type of footwear we tried in a wide range of settings. In our opinion, they are the best choice or hiking and trekking on Pohnpei. FiveFingers are produced by Vibram, which offers an extensive range of models that range from $50 to $150.
