Pohnpei Eco-Adventure Guide

Dream Inside, Step Outside

Category: adventures

Dau Reirei Island

Dahu Reirei, a small man-made island and popular swimming and picnicking location, in central Madolenihmw, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM).
Dahu Reirei (“long channel”) is a long, narrow, man-made islet constructed on a shallow reef with several huts for picnickers and campers and lots of pleasant swimming and snorkeling nearby. The tiny place can get uncomfortably crowded on weekends and holidays, but is wonderful at other times. One of Dahu Reirei‘s biggest draws is its namesake — the crystal-clear channel along the west side, which is host to many varieties of staghorn coral and swarms of reef fish; it’s a magical place to swim. The reef walls north of the island, however, are better for snorkeling (follow the reef as it curves east and north). Note that Dahu Reirei is really about being IN the water as the island itself isn’t much of anything. And in the water is exactly where you’ll want to be when the temperatures soar (there is little shade) and when the land shrinks at high tide (the island is hardly a meter above sea level). The family of the owner lives in a stilt-hut at the north end of the island.

  • To make reservations for day visits or overnight stays and to arrange boat transport from Ninleu, call +691.924.2229. There is an admission fee for the island so be sure to ask for quote if you would like to book a trip.

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Dau Reirei Island

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in camping, central madolenihmw, islands, paddling, snorkeling, swimming & picnickingTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Dolen Palikir

World War II paraphernalia on Dolen Palikir, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
Dolen Palikir (“hill of Palikir“) is a long hill in the middle of Palikir that runs northeast-southwest and has knolls at each end. The southern summit is slightly higher than the other at 250 meters. The Japanese capitalized on Dolen Palikir’s geography as they did with most of the high points on Pohnpei. Trench systems cross the path or run alongside it in several places and there are many small rifle pits. The trail begins at the Hadley residence west of the road leading to Iohl and climbs gently through high, waving grass before entering the trees. There it steepens as it meanders through sakau (kava) plantations (the tallest plants are just below the first summit). Near the summit benchmark is a prehistoric pehi (stone platform) linked to a story about Lepen Palikir — the highest chief in the region, but there’s no clear view of the valley here. The hike to the southern point follows the mostly flat ridge, passing many earthen defensive works, but none with cement or stonework. Near the middle of the ridge, the trees open up and provide a view of the panorama below. The most extensive Japanese structure is at the hill’s highest point and consists of three recessed gun sites with stone retaining walls around them and a trench leading down-slope.

  • Plan for 2-4 hours for this hike. Ask at the house for guides Rihlent Hadley or Denster Louis. Offer $20.00.

Map Guides >> Mainland Sokehs >> Dolen Palikir

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in camping, hiking & trekking, historical sites, mainland sokehs, prehistoric ruins, world war sitesTagged , , , , , , , , , , ,

Temwetemwensekir Peak

Southeast of Palikir, Pohnpei’s primary mountain system makes an almost 90° turn to the south at Temwetemwensekir (594 m), a prominent peak that dominates the topography and feeds six major rivers. The all-day slog to the top begins up an unpaved road opposite the College of Micronesia national campus. Though the route isn’t always clear and the challenge of the climb is increased by rough terrain and a few steep pitches, once one reaches the palm forests on the ridge, it’s smooth sailing. Hikers are afforded some beautiful views of Nanpohnmal, Palikir, and peaks to the south of the summit area. Japanese trenches and an observation post can also be found at the northeastern corner of the plateau.

  • Plan for 8 hours for this hike.

Map Guides >> Mainland Sokehs >> Temwetemwensekir

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in birding, camping, hiking & trekking, historical sites, mainland sokehsTagged , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Pwisehn Malek (“Chickenshit”)

Pwisehn Malek, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Hiking / TrekkingFree Climbing

The disputed Sokehs-Kitti border is marked by Pwisehn Malek, a strange hill of columnar basalt rock that resembles a cartoon volcano and looms over the road. According to legend, the formation was created by the droppings of a magical rooster — hence the name, which literally means “chicken shit.” Pwisehn Malek makes a fun little half-day hike with a semi-technical free-climb at the end. The 242 meter trail, which can be followed without a guide, begins in Paies at the edge of the Circle Island Road about 0.6 km (0.37 mi) past the College of Micronesia National Campus. The track is generally easy to discern as it snakes up the steep, grassy hillside without crossing private land. The hill has some scattered trees, but is mostly open to the sky, providing excellent views as one climbs. At the top of the hill, a narrow pinnacle of basalt prisms stabs out of the grass not far from the base of the main rock. If you don’t intend to go further, this is an amazing spot for lunch and photos with a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape, including Temwetemwensekir (mountain), the College of Micronesia campus, and the green, rolling topography of Palikir.

A climber scales the first pitch of Pwisehn Malek, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

The view from the summit is even better, however, so if you’re brave and sure-footed, you might consider the task of scaling it. We can attest that it looks worse than it is. Though the lower pitch seems sheer at first glance, there is actually a series of natural steps created by the vertical basalt prisms, providing excellent hand and footholds. Just take it slow and look around you. Once you get to the top of the first pitch, the remainder is much easier and not so exposed. The summit is rather small and mostly flat. You can see in every direction for miles and miles. We’ve given the climb an informal rating of 5.4X — it is not terribly difficult, but there is no natural protection, and a fall at the wrong place could potentially be fatal. Proceed with extreme caution. It is not advisable to climb on wet days, as the rocks can become slick when wet, or alone, as no one will be there to help you if you hurt yourself. Remember — Pohnpei has fairly basic medical facilities and no rescue service. Use good judgement.

Pwisehn Malek is one of the locations where archaeologists believe stones used in the construction of Nan Madol may have been quarried. How massive basalt prisms were transported from Sokehs all the way around the island to Temwen is anyone’s guess. Bamboo rafts have been proposed, but no one has successfully demonstrated the process with a really large stone. Stones were probably separated from the outcropping using a process of repeated heating and cooling. Fires might have been built at the base of the rock to heat the stones, which were then cooled suddenly with river water, causing them to crack. After that they could be pried off and dragged down the hill.

  • Plan for 1 hour for this hike. No fees are charged at this location and the hike can be done without a guide.

Map Guides >> Mainland Sokehs >> Pwisehn Malek

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in hiking & trekking, mainland sokehs, rock climbingTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Sokehs Japanese Sites & Parpwu Waterfall

Historical Sites in Mainland Sokehs

BikingHiking / TrekkingCave, Tunnel or BunkerWorld War II FortificationsArchaeological Site / RuinWaterfallCamping

“Military Road” Hike / Bike Tour

One of the most rewarding routes for Japanese World War II-era historical sites follows a road 0.46 km (0.29 mi) northeast of the turn-off to the FSM capital. This track was built by the Japanese in the 1930s to access the many military sites in the area and remains unpaved. Whether it is public or private, however, seems to be a matter of some debate. FSM Telecom, which maintains a mobile phone tower near “Radar Station Hill” and uses the road often, says that the road and the areas immediately alongside it belong to the municipality and that people living beyond the Thomas residence are squatters without legal land claims. Even so, a family living on the south side of the road about 1 km (0.62 mi) from the Circle Island Road insists that everything beyond their house is private. There are two ways for visitors to deal with this issue: either (1) hire a knowledgeable local guide to escort you on your hike (you’ll likely find more with them anyway) or (2) visit the house in question and ask permission yourself. During our fieldwork, we used both options successfully. The road, though unpaved, is in pretty good condition, and as it doesn’t climb much, it’s a great choice for either hiking or biking. You can park your vehicle at the beginning near the Circle Island Road and go from there.

Grassy Bunker Hill, Sokehs, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

“Bunker Hill”

About 100 m (109 yd) from the starting point, you can cut off the road to the right and climb up the grassy hill, making your way toward the landowner’s house about 200 m (219 yd) to the northeast. This is the place to ask for permission to explore in detail. There are several points of interest worth looking into. At the southwest and northeast ends of the hill, there are bunker-like observation stations that consist of curved tunnels with domed concrete roofs and several gun ports. The southern bunker site is well-hidden with the entrance near the base of a large tree that has grown up in recent years. Entering is a dirty job, but once you’re inside, the structure becomes quite roomy. The gun ports allow light inside. The northern site is close to a large cassava plantation and is kept cleared. You can enter easily from either end. These structures were likely manned by a few riflemen and intended to protect the roads on both sides of the hill. In view of the landowner’s house you can also find a zigzag trench and two gun sites, one of which was probably a medium-sized anti-aircraft gun. No guns remain now. Some people believe a gun at this location shot down the American bomber “Love Bug”. Others say it was one on Dolen Pahniepw.

Paul Thomas’s Hill

Another 277 m (303 yd) further down the road, one comes to the residence of a friendly West Virginian native, Paul Thomas, and his local wife. Thomas enjoys a good chat, and if you ask politely, will happily point you in the direction of several interesting sites on the hill above his house. Easily found are two pairs of bunkers similar to those mentioned already, and between these, three small gun sites and several foxholes. Thomas keeps the hill trimmed and neat; all but one of the sites (the first set of bunkers) lie along the crest of the hill over a distance of about 125 m (137 yd). The hill commands sweeping views of the Palikir valley to the west.

  • If you want to make arrangements ahead of time, call Paul Thomas at +691.320.4562.

Japanese beer bottle at Dolen Pahniepw barracks ruin, Sokehs, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Dolen Pahniepw

The next stop is Dolen Pahniepw. An overgrown trail begins off the right side of the road 0.56 km (0.35 mi) past Thomas’s driveway and runs 0.43 km (0.27 mi) to the summit of the hill. About 300 m (328 yd) along the trail, one comes to the ruins of an army barracks, which consists of concrete house posts,
foundations, and a bombed-out cistern. Sets of concrete steps led to the entrances of the wooden buildings. Some scrounging in the jungle around the site should yield some old Japanese beer bottles. At the end of the trail is a large anti-aircraft gun site, which probably housed a medium-sized gun similar to those on Lenger Island. On the northeast side of the hill, you may be able to locate the foundation of a radio tower, some tunnels, and the chassis of a truck.

At the southern end of the hill near the road, you can scramble up the bank and find a pair of unfinished small gun emplacements, some trenches in the woods, and a defused bomb.

“Radar Station Hill”

Local guides at Radar Station Hill, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
The road ends near the FSM Telecom cellular phone tower at the summit of a hill. A footpath continues west to a cement platform for a Japanese radar array, two foxholes, and two circular gun sites. A large bomb crater south of the road makes an excellent tent site for campers with unobstructed views of the whole of mainland Sokehs. Back east down the road, an L-shaped cutting leads to a path and eventually to the site of a generator station with a concrete storage alcove built into the embankment and a rusting motor.

  • Plan for a half day to full day for this hike/ride, depending on how many sites you want to explore.
  • No guide is necessary for the Military Road sites as long as you ask permission wherever private land is an issue. However, you are likely to discover much more of interest with a guide who knows the sites. Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes around Sokehs, if desired. Offer $25-50 for a group of five or less.

PBJ-H1 “Love Bug” Bomber Ruins

The port engine of the Love Bug bomber, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
Throughout 1944 and early 1945, the U.S. carried out a brutal bombing campaign of Japanese fortifications on Pohnpei. The only bomber ever shot down was a PBJ-1H (the U.S. Marines version of the Airforce B-25H) nicknamed “Love Bug” and piloted by First Lieutenant William J. Love. On February 6, 1945, while on a mission to destroy targets at the nearby Palikir airfield, the Love Bug was picked out of the sky by an anti-aircraft gun on one of the nearby hills (possibly “Bunker Hill”, Paul Thomas’s hill, or Dolen Pahniepw). The plane burst into flames upon impact, killing the entire crew. After the crash, Japanese soldiers collected the bodies and buried them in a marked grave near the crash site. A monument to the crew used to be found at the burial site, but it was taken apart by looters in the 1980s.

The crew was disinterred and reburied several times during the American Period before coming to rest at Jefferson Barracks National Cemetery in the U.S. — all except Sgt. David Snider, whose whereabouts were unknown until 1948. The wreckage was not positively identified until 2001, when two aviation archaeologists surveyed the area. The tail section and rudder were still visible in the forest in the 1980s, but the site has been heavily looted since and only a few large pieces remain — the port engine (sans prop), landing gear and wheel, and a portion of a stabilizer. Bits of wreckage are strewn across an area of some 7,000 square meters. Three defused bombs are also said to be in the vicinity, but we were unable to locate them during our visits.

It’s easiest to visit the site from the unpaved water tank road behind the FSM presidential housing facility. No guide is necessary, but you’ll have to ask the officer at the security check-point to let you through. The wreck is found on the forested slope a few meters off the north edge of the road before the water tank.

  • Plan for 1 hour for this hike. No guide is necessary, but you will need to ask the security guard on the road to let you through.

A brick kiln on the banks of the Nankewi River, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Nankewi River Vicinity

Ethanol Manufacturing Site

On the banks of Pillapen Nankewi (Nankewi River) the remnants of Japanese industry can still be seen. Neat stone retaining walls frame the river and trenches and pipes form a grid on the north bank. On the south bank are three large fermentation tanks, a variety of other distilling gear, brick ovens built into the hillside, a huge press, a crank, and other rusting machinery. The equipment was likely used to distill ethanol from sugar cane for fuel and other industrial purposes. A great deal of Japanese beer and liquor bottles litter the spot.

Parpwu Waterfall

Parpwu Waterfall, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

The rather flat terrain in greater Sokehs doesn’t make for a lot of waterfalls, but Parpwu (a.k.a. “Nan Lohlo” or “Nankewi”) — located on the Nankewi River just behind the now deserted Sokehs Shopping Center — is unusual because it’s so close to the coast, almost in the mangroves. In fact, during very high tides, you can kayak all the way from Sokehs Bay to the falls. The waterfall is a beautiful sight, but unfortunately, upstream piggeries have polluted the watercourse and swimming is ill-advised (even though you’ll see local kids from the area doing just that). Photo courtesy of Bill Jaynes.

  • Plan for 1 hour for this hike. Its easy to find someone to guide you down to the falls and/or distillery site. Just ask in the area. Offer $6.00.

Map Guides >> Mainland Sokehs >> Mainland Sokehs Historical Sites

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in hiking & trekking, historical sites, mainland sokehs, waterfalls, world war sitesTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Nahnalaud — the Big Mountain

The Big Mountain

Hiking / TrekkingCave, Tunnel or BunkerWaterfallBird-WatchingCamping

The highest mountain in the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM) is called Nahnalaud (which means “big mountain”) and is located almost in the exact middle of Pohnpei Island. Pohnpeians consider the mountain sacred and regard it with respect and reverence, though most people have never been there because of the long, difficult hike involved. Local deer hunters and upland sakau farmers are the most frequent visitors to the highland region. A limited number of foreigners also attempt the summit.

In reality, Nahnalaud is not a single mountain but rather the highest peak in Pohnpei’s contiguous central mountain system, which separates the five chiefdoms. The primary central ridge runs from west to east and then curves north toward U not far beyond Nahnalaud. Additionally, a secondary ridge runs south, leading to Pohnpei’s second highest peak, Ngihneni, and then turning sharply to the west. The two ridges fence in the long, narrow Nanmeir Valley — the most remote region on the island.

The exact elevation at the Nahnalaud summit is a matter of debate as the survey methods used in the 1970s to map the island have a significant margin of error. The official number is 772 meters (2,533 ft), but the peak may actually be higher than that — likely close to 780 m. Ngihneni (“spirit’s tooth”) is nearly the same elevation (a difference of a few meters), which has generated a long-running dispute about which is actually the highest point. Nett, Kitti, and Madolenihmw have also argued about which chiefdom can claim Nahnalaud, but according to the municipal boundary lines on the 1983 USGS map, each of these municipalities has a piece of the peak.

Hikers should be careful not to underestimate the mountain. Though the distance is not extreme, the terrain is. Experienced trekkers will find all of the approaches challenging merely because of the very rugged nature of Pohnpei’s interior mountains. The concept of switchbacks is little known on Pohnpei; trails are rough, rocky, and often go straight up the slope. Hikers who plan to tackle Nahnalaud should be prepared to walk along narrow ridges with steep slopes on either side; cross jumbles of broken, slippery rocks; ford medium-sized rivers (particularly on the Nett and Madolenihmw routes); walk in shallow, rocky riverbeds; ascend and descend slopes of 50 degrees or steeper; wade through muddy mires; cross slick logs; and push through high grass or ferns.

Despite the difficulty in getting to the top, the trip is well worth it. Those who have never visited a cloud forest before will be awed by the otherworldly beauty of the ridge, a perpetually dripping wonderland of stunted, hoary trees, air plants, and bryophytic growth. Virtually every surface is covered with a thick layer of spongy golden moss and the ground is composed of layer upon layer of damp, decayed matter. The area, which never dries out, gets at least 8.3 meters (325 in) of rain every year and is shrouded in thick fog much of the time, making clear views from the summit a rare occurrence.


Pehleng Approach (Western Kitti)

Hiking along the central ridge east of Pehleng, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

This well-defined trail up to the primary ridge and eventually to Nahnalaud was first promoted in 2013 by a local business calling itself Pohnpei Trailways. The idea was that this trail, starting in Pehleng, could be hiked by tourists without the assistance of a local guide. We strongly recommend that you do NOT do it that way. In fact, we think it’s a very a bad idea. Though at the time of writing (2014) the entire length of the trail was marked with pink flagging tied to tree branches, there is still plenty of potential for visitors to go astray. Furthermore, accidents or injuries without a local guide present could result in disaster. Remember that Pohnpei has no search and rescue service.

The true ascent begins after passing through a cluster of houses (ask permission) 0.95 km beyond the trailhead. After that, the trail is wide and true as it climbs steadily for 1.45 km (20% slope average) through the forest to the open fern meadow atop Dolen Salapwuk (510 m), where there are some good views in clear weather. The trail then re-enters the forest and begins to climb again for 4.6 km (13% slope average), narrowing as it comes up to the main ridge (696 m). Just before Shelter 1 (Dolmweir), there’s a 315 meter-long segment that is less than a meter wide with precipitous slopes on both sides; we’ve dubbed it the “Knife Edge.”

Shelter 1 is located at Dolmweir, where an appendage of the mountain thrusts north from the main ridge. There is no flowing water nearby. The privy is located 22 m to the north. After Shelter 1, the trail descends steeply by about 62 m on the south side of the ridge and skirts the base of a rocky cliff before climbing back to the ridge-top. From there it goes up and down for 2.94 km before reaching Mountain Shelter 2 roughly 5 minutes below the Nahnalaud summit.

  • Plan for 5-7 hours from the trailhead to Shelter 1 and 3-4 hours from there to the summit.

NOTE: As of February 2014, the pandanus-thatch roofs of the two ridge shelters were in very bad shape, heavily deteriorated and leaky. Plan accordingly.

The Origin of the Yap Banana

In the westward land of Sapani, a woman named Lienpwel (“woman of earth”) had two daughters, Lisoumokaiap and Lisoumokalang. The daughters decided to take a canoe and look for new land in the east and brought with them some “underworld yams”, banana shoots, and a stone called the Stone of Sahwar. The sisters eventually landed at a place in what is now Pwoaipwoai district (at that time the island was smaller and Pwoaipwoai lay near the coast). There they placed the stone and planted the yams. The stone was highly reflective, and when the sun would hit it, it would shine brightly (hence the name Sahwar, which means “shining” or “flashing”).

The younger of the two sisters, Lisoumokalang, eventually returned home to Sapani. On the way she visited the islands of Yap and propagated a new type of banana, which thrived and became the tallest of all banana varieties. Some time later, a Pohnpeian man who lived in a place called Loangen Kitti was looking west toward the sunset and he saw the tall banana plant in the distance. The ripe fruit were attracting many birds, so he found two starlings – one a common Micronesian starling (sioahk) and the other a Pohnpei mountain starling (sie) – and he took them up to a high mountain in Pehleng. The Micronesian starling was a lazy flier, but the mountain starling was clever and efficient. He sent both flying toward Yap. The Micronesian starling was distracted on the way and diverted from its course. Only the Pohnpei mountain starling reached its destination. It joined the other birds in eating the bananas, and while it did so, a seed became lodged in its feathers. Both birds eventually flew back to Pohnpei and landed at the peak of Pekenuht (which, appropriately, means “banana feces”). The seed carried by the mountain starling fell to the ground and propagated utin iap (the Yap banana).


Enipein Powe Approach (Kitti)

Twisted tree-life on the central ridge north of Enipein, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
This route begins at the end of an unpaved road in Enipein Powe and climbs gradually on a well-defined footpath up an out-thrust from the southern ridge. At the top, the trail passes through a saddle between Nahnan Pwoaipwoai and Dolen Uhd, then descends slightly along the inside of the ridge slope, finally arriving at a massive overhanging rock known by local guides as “the cave.” The cave has nice views through the trees of the Nanmeir Valley at the Lehnmesi River source below. You can also see Nahnalaud to the northwest and make a guess at the direction of Ngihneni to the east. The cave is an excellent place to camp with a cushioned fern-lined floor (that stays dry in wet weather) and usually some dry firewood stowed by hunters in the vicinity (replace what you use).

From the cave, the trail continues along the inner slope below Ngihneni, crosses several small streams, and then climbs steeply (20% slope average) to the top of the main ridge. At this point it’s just a short walk west along the ridge path to the first open viewpoint near a USGS benchmark. The spot people typically consider to be the summit is 5-10 minutes further, and Shelter 2 is just below that.

  • Plan for 6-8 hours from the trailhead to the cave and 90 minutes to 3 hours from there to the summit.


Salapwuk Approach (Kitti)

There are many ways to Nahnalaud from Salapwuk but they all begin at the end of the road beyond Salapwuk Elementary School. The early part of the hike uses the same trail as the Six Waterfalls, but at the place where one would turn toward the river to encounter Falls #1 (Pahnairlap), one instead follows a trail going northeast. This trail stays north of the river, crossing above Iro, Nan Emp, and Lipwentiak waterfalls. The latter is the most spectacular, located where the river gets funneled into a narrow channel and makes a hairpin turn. According to legend, this feature of the river was created when the matriarch of the Great Eel Clan encountered an eel hunter and writhed violently in horror at the sight of the dead eels he was carrying. Small pools above the falls are home to Pohnpei’s endemic freshwater shrimp, which the guides might be willing to catch for dinner. After that, the trail only meets the river again twice, where it cuts through a wide loop in the watercourse. It then turns north and climbs 362 meters in elevation to the primary ridge, not far from the summit.


Nanipil Approach (Nett)

Foggy forests on the Nanipil approach to Nahnalaud, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
Though slightly shorter, the Nanipil approach to Nahnalaud is certainly challenging. It’s significantly steeper than the other routes (except Salapwuk) and the trail is not well-maintained once you reach the rear of the valley. The hike starts at the house next to the hydroelectric building at the end of Nanipil River Road. Immediately behind the house, hikers must cross a river and then shortly after that a small stream. An easy segment follows with a well-defined residential path leading to the last house in this part of the valley (1.39 km), where an old man lives alone.

Past the house, the route continues on a fairly well-defined path that crosses the river several times (these crossings can be tricky if there has been a lot of recent rain). In a few places, you have to walk in the river itself, which can be quite difficult given the slickness of the rocks. Finally, after 2.94 km (3% slope average), the trail begins to climb out of the valley on the east side of the river and follows a sub-ridge up from there (3.16 km with a 22% slope average).

The climb has several pitches with small, flat rest areas in between. The first stop has a conspicuous tree of gigantic proportions entwined with vines almost as massive. The second stop is frequently used as a camp site by hunters and is one of the few places on the mountain with mobile phone reception. The final segment leading to the primary ridge is steep and often muddy. In places it follows the natural pathway of small streamlets (keep an eye out for a small waterfall high up on the slope). Once reaching the main ridge (754 m elevation), it’s an easy 0.56 km walk east to Shelter 2, a typical nahs-style thatched hut that can sleep ten or so.

NOTE: As of February 2014, a large part of the roof of this shelter had rotted away, leaving the central part of the hut exposed to the elements.


Nankepinmerepw Approach (Madolenihmw)

Nankepinmerepw valley, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

This route passes through the gorgeous valley of Nankepinmerepw, following the upper tributaries of the Nan Riohk Stream and eventually arriving north of Nahnalaud on an arm of the primary mountain system.

The hike begins at a rutted turn-off from the well-graded (but unpaved) road to Pahn Sile Waterfall, leads to a metal footbridge over the Senipehn River — the only bridge like it on the island — and connects with a path on the far side. From there, the trail meanders northwest not far from the Nan Riohk and more or less parallel to it.

The first kilometer or so cuts through cultivated lands. Then it begins to follow the water more closely as it passes into the wilder riverine forests. There are at least nine major stream crossings in this next segment, some of which may be difficult or impossible if there has been a lot of recent rain. Above the last major Nan Riohk tributary, where the name of the stream changes to Nankepinmerepw, hikers take to the stream bed itself, which is certainly the most challenging aspect of the route (13% slope average). The algae-slimed rocks are slick and dangerous and hikers may find that they have to go very slow and use both hands to avoid disastrous slips; it would be easy to snap an ankle or shatter a kneecap in this place. Despite the rough terrain, the scenery in this narrow valley, often fenced on both sides by high rocky walls, is terrific. At times, the trail passes along the tops of vertical prismatic basalt columns.

The first few points of interest are beautiful pools that will tempt any overheated hiker — and why resist? A bit further is a small waterfall near a prismatic basalt quarry site for Nan Madol. Abandoned prisms can be found lying in the stream bed in several places — the largest just below the falls. How exactly prisms were hauled down to the coast from this site is anyone’s guess. After a short, steep section (22% slope average), the valley terminates at a huge “horsetail” waterfall that the route crosses above (you can scramble down the eastern slope without too much difficulty for a better view from the side). The shallow pools above the falls are also an excellent place for a look at Pohnpei’s native crayfish.

Past the big waterfall, the stream narrows until it reaches a third waterfall — this one short and wide, falling over a straight lip (usually called a “block falls” or “sheet falls”) — and then diminishes to a trickle. From this point, the hike climbs west (29% slope average) and then south again as it follows the ridgeline (18% slope average) toward the Nahnalaud summit.


How Long Will It Take?

Though it is possible to hike up and down Nahnalaud in one day, as we did during one of the many data-gathering excursions, we don’t recommend that you put yourself through that kind of torture. Hiking to Nahnalaud should be considered a 2-day affair with one night spent either at the cave, one of the mountain shelters, or somewhere else on the ridge. Inexperienced or out-of-shape hikers may need three days or more.

Hiring a Local Guide

All of the routes up to Nahnalaud require an experienced local guide.

You should offer your guide no less than $160 if there are five or less in your group and at least $220 if there are more than five (plus tips). If you do the math, you’ll see that this is quite reasonable. With five people, each hiker pays just $32 plus tips — a super bargain. If you can’t assemble a group, you’ll still only pay $80 per person with two hikers, which is less than you’d pay for two dives at virtually any SCUBA company in the world (and this is two days and one night). Obviously, if you plan to take a slower pace and do the hike over three or more days, you’ll need to pay your guide more.

Your guide is your lifeline; you will depend on him to keep you safe and on the right track throughout the duration of your hike. Guides provide other useful services as well, such as making campfires in damp weather. If you expect your guide to cook meals for the group or carry any gear for you, he should be paid extra. Agree on a price beforehand.

Map Guides >> The Interior Highlands >> Nahnalaud

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Sapwtakai and Other Prehistoric Cultural Sites & Ruins

Prehistoric Sites & Ruins in Kitti


The Fortress of Sapwtakai

Sapwtakai (“rock land”) is a 13,000 m2 stone complex that crowns a hill north of Wenik. The site was first occupied around 1250 A.D. and functioned as a political center for at least four centuries. The walls, terrace platforms, stone-paved walkways, tombs, and other features were built in three phases. The upper portion of the fortress was the residential area, while the southern part was the ceremonial center.

The wall on the north side of Sapwtakai is higher than at other points — presumably to deter enemies from that direction, while the steep slope on the east side offers natural protection. About 15 meters north of the complex perimeter is another free-standing 1.5 to 2 meter high wall that runs south and east. These defensive structures failed, however, to protect the fortress from incursions by the Dipwinpehpe clan, which took control of Pehleng and then moved south, driving out the Soukitti clan and conquering Sapwtakai. The fortress was occupied for a period of time, during which the Dipwinpehpe destroyed some of its features. Neighboring Onohnleng eventually decided that the need to regain power over the region justified open war. The main force of warriors were sent marching north from Lukoap. At the same time, a fleet of canoes was assembled off the coast. But instead of containing more fighting men, the canoes carried dummies. The Dipwinpehpe saw what Onohnleng wanted them to — two separate forces set against them. They divided their own army to deal with both the men on land and the fleet, only to find that they’d been tricked. The divided army was soon defeated by the men of Onohnleng, Sapwtakai was retaken, and the regions that now make up Kitti were united under centralized leadership for the first time.

Sapwtakai continued to be utilized for some time after the unification of Kitti, but was abandoned around 1850. Other than a meticulous archaeological survey by Joyce Bath in 1980, the ruin has mostly been left to time and nature — rarely visited and entirely unmanaged by Pohnpei State and the Historic Preservation Office. A lot of the hill has been overgrown by wild hibiscus, durien, and hellishly stickery wild yam vines with spines that will go right through the soles of booties or FiveFingers. There is still much to see, but it’s imperative that one finds a good guide who knows the site well.

Points of interest include boulder walls as tall as 2 meters beyond the northern perimeter, a platform of tabular basalt in the northern corner that rises 2 meters above the wall, several 450-year-old house platforms with central fire pits, breadfruit storage pits, a large burial complex constructed of basalt boulders and prisms and containing two openings leading to a central crypt, a contemporary Japanese slit trench, a 2-tiered platform with a central fire pit where hammer stones for pounding sakau were discovered, and seven river cobbles that are said to be magical sling stones.

“Kitti Rock” Area Ruins

The cluster of ruins on the slope below Sapwtakai were referred to as “Kitti Rock” by archaeologists because a basalt stone from Nan Madol was placed in the area when Kitti was founded. There are many sites. We’ve highlighted only a few here.

Dolomar Paiei (Site 35-26)

This is a two-tiered stone platform in Sapwtakai district with terraces on two sides.

Dolomar Pailong (Site 35-14)

This is a stone platform southwest of the Sapwtakai ruins.

Peidolenmai (Site 32-8)

Peidolenmai (“stone platform of the hill of breadfruit”) is a 3 x 4.5 meter stone platform in Alauso with two breadfruit storage pits inside the enclosure. The pits and the name indicate the purpose of the site.

Peinkareraua (Site 35-17)

Peinkareraua is a stone platform with an enclosing wall 2 meters thick and two low platforms that together formed the residence of the ruler of Kepihleng and the center of state ceremonial events, located southwest of Sapwtakai ruins in Sapwtakai district.

There are many access points for these ruins. It’s possible to cut southwest from Sapwtakai and find oneself in the midst of the highest concentration of the “Kitti Rock” sites, but trails also run from Nanmand, Marahu, and Seinwar. Ask around for guides at houses in those areas.

Diadi & Wenik Sites

“Dolen Samaki” (Site 30-18)

This is a stone enclosure on an 86 meter hill in Wenik district, identified by the name of the hill on which it is found. At the site is a huge magical boulder (takai wek mai) that was used in combination with a spell to ensure a good breadfruit harvest. There are also three other large boulders with special properties. The site is mentioned in the oral history of Utin Iap, the “banana of Yap”.

Pahn Kipar (Site 30-19)

Pahn Kipar is a 5 x 6 meter stone terrace platform with an extended breadfruit storage pit in Wenik district.

Peinmwas (Site 30-20)

Peinmwas (“stone platform of the worm”) is a stone platform, now mostly buried or scattered, between Wenik and Diadi districts. The site is mentioned in the Utin Iap (“banana of Yap”) oral history.

Pohn Kohla (Site 27-3)

This 13 x 15 meter rock platform and stone-paved terrace is located between Wenik and Diadi districts on the southern slope of a hill. The location has two peitehl (sakau stones) and an uhmw (rock oven) site.

The most direct access point for these sites is at Oare, but it’s also possible to reach them via trails beginning opposite the Kitti SDA Church. Ask around for guides at houses and stores in either of these locations.

Seinwar Area Sites

Niahlek (Site 34-29)

This is a single 5 x 6 meter stone platform with a central pit located in Seinwar district.

Soaid (Site 34-32)

This stone burial platform is found in Seinwar district on the hillside above the Circle Island Road.

It’s possible to find people in Seinwar who can lead visitors southeast past Soaid, Niahlek, and other sites in this vicinity. Ask around at houses and stores along the main road.

Pan Pei, Alauso, Poatoapoat & Wenik Area Sites

Narong (Site 31-17)

This is a semi-circular stone terrace platform with a large shell midden, where a number of artifacts — including a breadfruit pounding stone, hammer stone, and coral grinding stone used to make breadfruit peelers from cowrie shells — were found. Breadfruit was prepared at this place for preservation in pits. The site is located in Poatopoat district.

Pan Pei

About 680 meters southwest of Sapwtakai and 400 meters northeast of the Kitti Municipal Office are the structures of Pan Pei. The primary feature in the group is a 169 m2 burial platform built of prismatic basalt columns and containing four crypts. The platform is about 1 meter high. At one point in the past the crypts were roofed with columns. A road 25 meters south of the Municipal Office leads up into the hills, passing several of the Poatoapoat sites and connecting with a footpath that runs north to the Pan Pei sites before ending at a residence. From the residence, another footpath goes southeast to the top of a hill where the Japanese had an anti-aircraft gun installed (the gun is not there now).

“Pilen Koaroan” (Site 35-19)

“Pilen Koaroan” consists of three stone structures, including a double vault tomb attached to a wall and a stepped platform with a central pit. It’s part of the “Pan Pei” group.

“Diadi” (Site 30-16)

This is a single 9 x 11 meter stone platform surrounded by a wall and identified by the name of the district in which it lies. The area is marshy. The wall ranges from a half meter to a meter in height and has a single entrance about a meter wide, while the central pit is little less than a square meter and a third of a meter deep. “Diadi” is also unique because the walls consist of boulders, flat stones, and oblong basalt prisms mixed together.

Site 30-17

This is a stone ruin in Diadi district just below the peak of a hill and nearby the “Diadi” ruin.

For these sites, ask at and around the Kitti Municipal Office for a guide.

Salapwuk Area Sites

Elen Eni

Elen Eni (“ghost path”) is the sacred burial site of a number of traditional high priests, called soumw. These priests were instrumental in the religious cult that thrived in Salapwuk prior to the conquest of Christian missionaries. Many Pohnpeians are afraid of the site and would never go there or consider taking a foreigner there, but there are some guides who would be willing to make a visit if certain ground-rules are followed.

Lehn Mwahmw

Lehn Mwahmw (“fish pool”) is a natural pool on the Lehnmesi River rather than a man-made site. Located in Salapwuk district, the pool is believed to be a spot that Pohnpei’s early settlers stocked with fish upon arrival.

Lehnpoudek

Lehnpoudek (“mooring pool”) is another natural pool on the Lehnmesi. Myth suggests that Pohnpei’s founder, Sapwkini, and his entourage moored their canoes at this spot.

“Rasalap” (Site 24-7)

This is a 10 x 14 meter stone complex (141 m2), consisting of boulders stacked to form two low platforms separated by a wall and enclosed in a meter high perimeter wall. Once again, the name actually refers to the area — a huge, marshy savannah and fern meadow on a hill west of Salapwuk district — rather than to the structure itself. The most unusual aspect of the site is the dual courtyards — a feature atypical in prehistoric Pohnpeian architecture. The site’s purpose is not clear.

Sokosoken Leng

In the forest off the west side of the road past Salapwuk Elementary School is a basalt boulder with a coralhead on top. Sokosoken Leng (“landing of heaven”) and its stone marks the spot where Pohnpei’s mythical founder, Sapwkini, first docked his voyaging canoe and later began to build Pohnpei on the reef, using magic to pile up rocks and earth to form an island.

Takain Pwohng

Takain Pwohng (“stone of night”) is a trio of boulders along the Lehnmesi River, where one high priest (soumw) of the Salapwuk religious cult was said to have lived in ancient times, allegedly performing human sacrifices and ritual cannibalism at a small cave under the largest rock.

The best point of contact for the Salapwuk sites is Welten Panuel. If Welten cannot take you himself, he will be able to recommend a guide for most or all of the Salapwuk area sites. Visit the Guides & Tour Operators page for contact info.


Map Guides >> Western Kitti >> Prehistoric Cultural Sites & Ruins in Kitti

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Dolen Uh & Other Treeless Hills

Treeless Hills & Fern Meadows

One of the most visually distinctive features of the area between Pehleng and Pwudoi involves the fern meadows that crown the tops of several treeless hills on both sides of the main road. These features exist where shallow bedrock and repeated burnings inhibit tree growth.

Dolen Uh

One rounded hill, called Dolen Uh (“standing hill”), lies immediately west of the road in Pwudoi and offers a nice hike that anyone can manage. Begin next to the road 0.22 km (0.14 mi) after the Pilen Seleur eel pools and follow the footpath through the woods and past three utility poles to the FSM Telecom tower at the 94 m summit. The roof of a small concrete hut is a nice spot for a picnic or for enjoying the sunset. Panoramic views are found in all directions. This hike can be done without a guide and without any special permission. With the exception of one small, scrubby tree next to the concrete hut, the rest of the hill is covered with low spreading plants with tiny flowers, called “yellow grass,” and a variety of Lycopodiella fern routinely found in meadows of this type.

Tents can be pitched in many places around the gentle slopes, though there is no water on the hill and it’s exposed to off-shore winds (pack out ALL garbage — leave nothing behind).

No access fee is charged.

  • Plan for 45 to 90 min with some leisure time at the top.

Mallen Loange Peidak

Another interesting fern-topped hill is located northeast of Dolen Uh and is easily accessible from the same road taken to reach the Dolmweir / Pekenuht / Nahnalaud trailhead in Pehleng. The turn-off for this road is 3.2 km (2 mi) north of the Dolen Uh trailhead just before a basketball court. The meadow, or savannah, on the hill’s crest is known as Mallen Loange Peidak (mal means “meadow”) and offers commanding views of the western coasts, Nan Lapahu Stream valley and Woun Oapoaro — another valley. Drive to the end of the access road (1.72 km / 1.1 mi) and walk about 0.42 km (0.26 mi) up the footpath until coming to a clearing on the south side of the path, where a second footpath leads southwest to the hill (0.22 km / 0.14 mi). Anyone living nearby can point you in the right direction, and children in the neighborhood will act as guides for a couple of bucks.

  • Plan for 45 min to 1 hour for this hike.

Pohn Dollap

A third hill, called Pohn Dollap (“on the big hill”), is found between the Circle Island Road and Mallen Loange Peidak. To find a guide (offer $12.00) and obtain permission to cross private land around the hill, ask at the houses along the inland side of the road 1.8 km (1.1 mi) south of the Mallen Loange Peidak / Nahnalaud access road.

  • Plan for 2 to 2 1/2 hours round-trip.

Map Guides >> Western Kitti >> Dolen Uh & Other Hills with Fern Meadows

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Pilen Seleur Eel Pools

A man lifts a live river eel from the water in Pwudoi, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Waterfalls and mountains can be visited in many places, but the experience to be had at Pilen Seleur in Pwudoi is uniquely Pohnpeian. River pools on either side of the road are home to scores of huge Marbled Eels — also called Giant Mottled Eels (Anguilla marmorata). The eels are sacred on Pohnpei and figure prominently in local mythology. Members of the Lasialap (Great Eel Clan) consider the mottled beasts to be their extended family, protecting and feeding them (Pohnpeians have a taboo on eating freshwater eels, though they are eaten in nearby Kosrae). Visitors can walk down to either pool and watch local men and boys stroke the eels, pick them up, or entice them with cans of mackerel to slither entirely out of the water. Some of the creatures are more than a meter long. You can even try handling one yourself; don’t worry — the eels are quite docile and rarely bite.

The pool on the west side of the road is large, deep, and picturesque. It’s a popular swimming spot for the young members of the family living there. There tend to be larger eels at this spot, but because the water gets waist-deep pretty quick, you can’t easily wade in. The pool on the east side is small and rarely more than a foot deep — it’s the best place if you’re interested in trying to pick up an eel yourself. Treat the beasts with respect and care.

A boy lifts a live river eel from the water in Pwudoi, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

  • Plan for 30 min to 1 hour at the location. The families living next to each of the two pools charge $3.00 per person. You’ll also want to purchase a can or two of mackerel at a nearby store to feed the sinuous creatures.

More About the Giant Mottled Eel

The species of eel found on Pohnpei has a wide distribution and exists in tropical environments ranging from East Africa to French Polynesia. It’s also found in southern Japan and Taiwan (where it is endangered). Young eels usually have yellowish or light brown backs and become darker as they age. The largest eels are dark brown mottled with black with cream-colored bellies. They have tiny rows of teeth and protruding lower jaws. Mature females have been known to grow up to 2 meters (6.5 ft) in length.

Mottled eels have two distinct phases to their life-cycle. After spending as long as 20 years in freshwater streams or estuaries, the eels leave their homes and migrate westward across the Pacific to an area in the open ocean west of the Mariana Islands (in the case of Pohnpei’s eels, this is a distance of more than 1,600 kilometers / 990 miles). There they breed, lay eggs, and die. After hatching, juveniles journey to find land, where they swim up rivers and streams and establish themselves in deep pools.

Map Guides >> Western Kitti >> Pilen Seleur Eel Pools

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Sahwartik & Sahwarlap Waterfalls

Hiking / TrekkingWaterfallsSwimmingCaveBird-Watching

Sahwartik Waterfall, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Located on converging streams within Salapwuk’s deep Sahwar Gorge, Sahwartik and Sahwarlap are a pair of waterfalls whose splendor and grace defy reality. The wider falls is named Sahwarlap, which means “shining brightly,” and its tall, thin neighbor is called Sahwartik (“shining faintly”). Sahwartik, a “horsetail” falls, is the more picturesque of the pair and is probably the tallest waterfall on Pohnpei at about 20-24 meters (65-80 ft). It lies at the terminus of the gorge, hidden in a fern-carpeted niche with a sizable plunge pool and enough flow to create its own misty breeze. The water is very clean and often quite chilly — amazingly refreshing after a hot hike. Sahwarlap’s stream angles into Sahwartik’s from the northwest. The falls is wider and shorter than Sahwartik and has a much shallower pool. Both waterfalls are great for a mid-hike swim, but Sahwarlap‘s pool is shallow, while Sahwartik‘s is relatively deep.

The trek begins east of the road that leads to Salapwuk Elementary School, just before the paving ends (park under the trees on the east side of the road). After crossing the landowner’s property, a well-maintained trail begins at the rim of the gorge with inspiring views of both waterfalls, then descends in a zigzag along the slope to the stream bed. The slope trail is generally well-tended, but without any railing on the outer edge. Hikers should move slowly and with care. In a few places there are rough steps that can deteriorate after heavy rain.

Once one reaches the bottom of the gorge, there’s no obvious trail, but the way is clear. Merely head up-stream and stick close to the water — a collection of little streamlets. There are no deviations from the valley, so it’s impossible to lose your way before hitting Sahwartik. Sahwarlap can be a little trickier to locate. Hug the west side of the stream bed and keep your eyes peeled for a path near where the Sahwarlap Stream (Pilen Sahwarlap) flows into the larger watercourse (Pilen Sahwar). This footpath climbs over a little hillock, from the top of which the falls is visible through the trees.

Note that sakau (known elsewhere as kava) is heavily cultivated throughout the west side of the valley and along the slope trail. The large shrub with its heart-shaped leaves and thick, knobby branches — sometimes pure green, but more often mottled — is easy to identify. The plants have great value to their owners. Hikers should treat them with respect and avoid breaking branches or otherwise damaging them as they pass.

The Sesiwo family charges $5.00 per person for access. No guide is necessary for this hike, but if you want one, the family can scare up some kids to go with you. Offer $5.00 and make sure that everyone is clear that you’re paying one person, even if a whole group of kids trail along behind.

  • Plan for 90 minutes to 3 hours round-trip with a swimming session at each waterfall.

How the Sahwar Valley was Formed

There was once a woman in Salapwuk named Lienlama who had two sons named Mwohnmur and Sarapwau. The boys had many adventures and became notorious in Pohnpeian legend, being responsible for the creation of a number of interesting geographical features including Takaiuh (hill), Pohnpaip (rock), and the island of Takaieu. The boys were eternally curious, and one time they took their mother’s loom stick (made from a sword fern) and dug in the earth to see what was below it. The hole that they dug was so deep that they reached the Underworld, and because they could see the shining lights of that other world through the hole, the gorge was named Sahwar, which means “shining” or “flashing.”

Map Guides >> Western Kitti >> Sahwartik & Sahwarlap Waterfalls

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