swimming & picnicking – Page 3 – Pohnpei Eco-Adventure Guide

Mwudokolos Island

Mwudokolos is found a half-kilometer (0.33 mi) northeast of Metipw and easily accessed from the coral-dredged causeway/dock found there (ask at the nearest house for permission to launch if you’re paddling out). The privately owned, but uninhabited, island has prehistoric stone structures that date to the Nahnmwarki Period of Nan Madol (post-1700). Glass beads, sherds, and clay pipes have also been found there by archaeologists, suggesting that Mwudokolos was occupied by foreign traders in the late 1800s. There’s some nice swimming and snorkeling northeast of the island.

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Mwudokolos Island

By pni-surfclubPosted on December 8, 2013May 15, 2021Posted in camping, central madolenihmw, historical sites, islands, paddling, snorkeling, swimming & picnickingTagged camping, fsm, historical sites, island, lagoon, micronesia, mwudokolos island, oceania, pacific, paddling, pohnpei, ponape, swimming

Lepin Dau Island

This island is claimed by the same family as Dahu Reirei and has no true name, but as it lies adjacent to the primary channel every boat in the area uses to go from Areu and Ohwa to Madolenihmw Bay, it’s known by most people as Lepin Dau (or sometimes “Channel Island”). Lepin Dau is larger and higher than Dahu Reirei and has some welcoming tree-cover. The reef pass on the west side is a nice spot to snorkel at slack tide, but at other times, the current can be so strong that snorkelers and swimmers run a strong risk of being swept away. A better spot for snorkeling is in the blue holes around the southeast side — well out of the path of the current. Here you can find beautiful coral grottoes, schools of needlefish, barracuda, cuttlefish, trumpetfish, angelfish, and parrotfish, an odd seasnake (the latter are venomous, but so passive that they pose little danger to snorkelers), and from time to time even eagle rays and small green turtles.

To obtain permission for overnight stays or to arrange boat transport from Ninleu, call +691.924.2229.

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Lepin Dau Island

By pni-surfclubPosted on December 6, 2013May 15, 2021Posted in camping, islands, paddling, snorkeling, swimming & picnicking, u & northern madolenihmwTagged camping, channel island, fsm, island, lagoon, lepin dau island, micronesia, oceania, pacific, paddling, picnicking, pohnpei, ponape, snorkeling, swimming

Dekehmwahu Island

Uninhabited little Dekehmwahu (“good island”) is located just east of Nahpali in Madolenihmw Municipality. It’s a rough oval with a couple of small, sandy beaches and a few places to pitch a tent. The best beach is at the northwestern end, while the most practical camp site is on the southeast coast. Mangroves skirt most of the western coast. With a few exceptions, the surrounding ocean is shallow and covered with beds of seagrass, but good snorkeling can be found not far to the south at the Namwen Na Stingray Sanctuary (a short swim away). Surrounding shallow reefs make the island difficult to reach by boat, except at the highest tides, but it’s a great place for kayakers to visit. Currents can be extremely strong in the area at certain times.

To obtain permission for overnight stays, call McKenzie Senda at +691.320.8682 / 7147 / 4062.

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Dekehmwahu Island

By pni-surfclubPosted on December 3, 2013May 14, 2021Posted in camping, central madolenihmw, islands, paddling, snorkeling, swimming & picnicking, temwen vicinityTagged beaches, camping, dekehmwahu island, fsm, island, lagoon, micronesia, oceania, pacific, paddling, picnicking, pohnpei, ponape, snorkeling, swimming

Dau Reirei Island

Dahu Reirei (“long channel”) is a long, narrow, man-made islet constructed on a shallow reef with several huts for picnickers and campers and lots of pleasant swimming and snorkeling nearby. The tiny place can get uncomfortably crowded on weekends and holidays, but is wonderful at other times. One of Dahu Reirei‘s biggest draws is its namesake — the crystal-clear channel along the west side, which is host to many varieties of staghorn coral and swarms of reef fish; it’s a magical place to swim. The reef walls north of the island, however, are better for snorkeling (follow the reef as it curves east and north). Note that Dahu Reirei is really about being IN the water as the island itself isn’t much of anything. And in the water is exactly where you’ll want to be when the temperatures soar (there is little shade) and when the land shrinks at high tide (the island is hardly a meter above sea level). The family of the owner lives in a stilt-hut at the north end of the island.

To make reservations for day visits or overnight stays and to arrange boat transport from Ninleu, call +691.924.2229. There is an admission fee for the island so be sure to ask for quote if you would like to book a trip.

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Dau Reirei Island

By pni-surfclubPosted on December 2, 2013May 14, 2021Posted in camping, central madolenihmw, islands, paddling, snorkeling, swimming & picnickingTagged camping, dahu reirei, dahu reirei island, fsm, island, islands, lagoon, micronesia, oceania, pacific, paddling, picnicking, pohnpei, ponape, snorkeling, swimming

Sahwartik & Sahwarlap Waterfalls

Located on converging streams within Salapwuk’s deep Sahwar Gorge, Sahwartik and Sahwarlap are a pair of waterfalls whose splendor and grace defy reality. The wider falls is named Sahwarlap, which means “shining brightly,” and its tall, thin neighbor is called Sahwartik (“shining faintly”). Sahwartik, a “horsetail” falls, is the more picturesque of the pair and is probably the tallest waterfall on Pohnpei at about 20-24 meters (65-80 ft). It lies at the terminus of the gorge, hidden in a fern-carpeted niche with a sizable plunge pool and enough flow to create its own misty breeze. The water is very clean and often quite chilly — amazingly refreshing after a hot hike. Sahwarlap’s stream angles into Sahwartik’s from the northwest. The falls is wider and shorter than Sahwartik and has a much shallower pool. Both waterfalls are great for a mid-hike swim, but Sahwarlap‘s pool is shallow, while Sahwartik‘s is relatively deep.

The trek begins east of the road that leads to Salapwuk Elementary School, just before the paving ends (park under the trees on the east side of the road). After crossing the landowner’s property, a well-maintained trail begins at the rim of the gorge with inspiring views of both waterfalls, then descends in a zigzag along the slope to the stream bed. The slope trail is generally well-tended, but without any railing on the outer edge. Hikers should move slowly and with care. In a few places there are rough steps that can deteriorate after heavy rain.

Once one reaches the bottom of the gorge, there’s no obvious trail, but the way is clear. Merely head up-stream and stick close to the water — a collection of little streamlets. There are no deviations from the valley, so it’s impossible to lose your way before hitting Sahwartik. Sahwarlap can be a little trickier to locate. Hug the west side of the stream bed and keep your eyes peeled for a path near where the Sahwarlap Stream (Pilen Sahwarlap) flows into the larger watercourse (Pilen Sahwar). This footpath climbs over a little hillock, from the top of which the falls is visible through the trees.

Note that sakau (known elsewhere as kava) is heavily cultivated throughout the west side of the valley and along the slope trail. The large shrub with its heart-shaped leaves and thick, knobby branches — sometimes pure green, but more often mottled — is easy to identify. The plants have great value to their owners. Hikers should treat them with respect and avoid breaking branches or otherwise damaging them as they pass.

The Sesiwo family charges $5.00 per person for access. No guide is necessary for this hike, but if you want one, the family can scare up some kids to go with you. Offer $5.00 and make sure that everyone is clear that you’re paying one person, even if a whole group of kids trail along behind.

Plan for 90 minutes to 3 hours round-trip with a swimming session at each waterfall.

How the Sahwar Valley was Formed

There was once a woman in Salapwuk named Lienlama who had two sons named Mwohnmur and Sarapwau. The boys had many adventures and became notorious in Pohnpeian legend, being responsible for the creation of a number of interesting geographical features including Takaiuh (hill), Pohnpaip (rock), and the island of Takaieu. The boys were eternally curious, and one time they took their mother’s loom stick (made from a sword fern) and dug in the earth to see what was below it. The hole that they dug was so deep that they reached the Underworld, and because they could see the shining lights of that other world through the hole, the gorge was named Sahwar, which means “shining” or “flashing.”

Map Guides >> Western Kitti >> Sahwartik & Sahwarlap Waterfalls

By pni-surfclubPosted on September 2, 2013September 3, 2019Posted in birding, hiking & trekking, swimming & picnicking, waterfalls, western kittiTagged fsm, gorge, hiking, islands, kitti, micronesia, oceania, pacific, picnicking, pohnpei, ponape, sahwar valley, sahwarlap waterfall, sahwartik waterfall, salapwuk, swimming, trails, valley, waterfalls

The Six Waterfalls Hike

Because Pohnpei’s rainforested terrain is so challenging to move through, inexperienced hikers might think a jaunt into the wild interior of the island is out of reach. It isn’t. Almost anyone in relatively good physical condition can handle the “Six Waterfalls Hike”, which delves into the verdant forests and lush raparian environment of the remote Nanmeir Valley above Salapwuk.

The adventure begins near Salapwuk Elementary School. The early part of the hike follows a wide, mostly flat track through the trees. This is a good place to look for Asian waterbuffalo, or carabao, which some of the Salapwuk residents use as beasts of burden. The large, big-horned animals, which were brought to Pohnpei from the Philippines by the Spanish in the 1890s, may look fearsome, but are actually quite shy, gentle creatures. You might see one lolling about in a patch of mud or plodding along with a smiling child perched on its back.

Over time the track becomes a narrow footpath and begins to roll up and down as it passes through hilly native forests. Shortly after crossing the Sihngar Stream (Pilen Sihngar), there’s a fork in the trail. Continuing straight will keep you above and west of the river, while the eastern way leads down toward the upper Lehnmesi River and Pahnairlap, a serene punchbowl falls with a great little pool beneath it.

The rest of the hike follows along the banks of the river and occasionally crosses over it, stopping at four more waterfalls — Nikotoapw, Olotong, Iro, and Nan Emp — each with its own unique character. This segment is quite difficult, as hikers must traverse the round, jumbled stones that line the riverbed and its banks. Go slow, use your hands, and watch your footing.

Nikotoapw Waterfall is found a bit to the east of the river, above where the Nikotoapw Stream (Pilen Nikotoapw) joins the Lehnmesi. The site is screened by a pool with a wide “block falls” behind it, which hikers must circumvent. On the other side, the stream issues from a narrow slot. Continue through this and one comes to an enclosure mostly hidden from outside. There lies the falls and its sizable pool. If you swim under the falls and climb up on the rocks behind, you’ll find a cave.

The third falls, Olotong, is found on the opposite side of the Lehnmesi from Nikotoapwpw. This is followed by plenty of hiking in the riverbed and one segment where the trail leaves the river and cuts through the forest before coming back to the watercourse. Iro and Nan Emp are both found on the west side of the river not too far apart.

The sixth falls, called Lipwentiak, is also hidden from view by the topography. At one point the river narrows and passes through a high-walled slot. Though there is a way up and around, the easiest and safest way past is to swim through the slot. On the other side, the walls open up to reveal a large pool with high walls on all sides, an island of cobbles, and beyond all that, a tiered “horsetail falls” that flows from a vaguely heart-shaped portal of dark rock. It’s very dramatic.

In all, the trek offers tons of great swimming and truly unreal scenery. Good footwear is a must.

Plan for 6-8 hours round-trip with short swim breaks at each waterfall.

Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for the Six Waterfalls Hike.

The Story of the Eel of Pahdol

A long time ago, a couple from Wene came to live in a place called Iro. One day there was a great storm and the heavy rains resulted in a huge flood. Two women in the area went out to fish in the flood, and while they were fishing, a starling flew over and dropped a small stone. The women took the stone home and gave it to the couple from Wene. Later, at a place called Pahnkipar (“under the pandanus tree”), the stone broke apart and from it was hatched a tiny freshwater eel. The couple kept the eel as their pet and allowed it to live in a pool at Pahdol (“under the hill”) in Pahnais. When the eel grew up, however, it began to act in sinister ways. At night, the eel would escape from its pool and sneak into the house, where it would stare at the sleeping couple. The couple became uncomfortable and decided to kill and eat the eel, but the eel overheard their plan, came into the house, and attacked them. The couple fled into the forest and hid under a huge rock, where they believed they’d be safe. The eel discovered the hiding place and ambushed the couple, devouring them alive.

The eel then traveled into the Nanmeir Valley in Pohnpei’s interior and followed the Lehnmesi River source. There she met Kiroun Meir, a high-titled man, who brought her to live with him at his home. The two became lovers and the eel was impregnated. She was restless, however, and departed, continuing to follow the river. At Lipwentiak, the eel encountered a hunter named Kiroun Mand, killing and eating eels. Recoiling at this sight, she created a sharp turn in the river with the writhing of her body. Soon after, she gave birth to her first daughter, the matriarch of the Sounlipwentiak subclan. She had other children later who became the founders of the Lasiadohng (“eels of the dohng tree”) and Lasiakotop (“eels of the kotop palm”) subclans. After that, the eel went to live in Dauen Sapwalap, where she terrorized the local inhabitants, devouring so many that the land became mostly deserted. When the monster finally died, her body formed Dolen Nett.

Map Guides >> Western Kitti >> Six Waterfalls Hike

By pni-surfclubPosted on September 1, 2013September 3, 2019Posted in birding, camping, hiking & trekking, swimming & picnicking, waterfalls, western kittiTagged fsm, hiking, iro waterfall, islands, kitti, lehnmesi river, lipwentiak waterfall, micronesia, nan emp waterfall, nikotoapw waterfall, oceania, olotong waterfall, pacific, pahnairlap waterfall, pohnpei, ponape, rainforest, salapwuk, six waterfalls hike, swimming, trails, waterfalls

Lehnpaipohn Waterfall

Kitti has a lot of waterfalls, but one of the most fun to visit is Lehnpaipohn between Salapwuk and Pwoaipwoai districts (at least two kousapw claim the falls area). It is neither the tallest waterfall on Pohnpei nor the most picturesque, but what Lehnpaipohn does have is the largest freshwater pool on the island (about 80 by 30 meters) and the highest jumping-off spot. The pool is leaf-shaped, very deep, and surrounded by high cliffs with a sizable island of river cobbles in the center. The water is typically quite chilly, which is a good thing after the hike. The waterfall itself is not much more than 4 meters (13 ft) tall and has a platform of rock behind it that you can stand on. Swimming to it is difficult, however, because of the strong current coming away from the falls. The best tactic is to swim along the edge and use the rocks to pull yourself forward.

The trail is only 0.53 km (0.33 mi) from the unpaved secondary road, but that road’s conditions are so bad that you’ll want to park your vehicle way down at the end of the paving 0.4 km (0.25 mi) above the Circle Island Road and walk up (5-15% slope with an average of about 7%). Look for the unmarked footpath on the left 2.18 km (1.4 mi) beyond the paving and 117 meters (128 yd) past the last visible residence on the right. The path is well-defined, relatively easy to follow, and downhill almost the whole way to the river (12% slope average). It stays under the trees and is rocky except at one point, where there’s a swampy section to cross or navigate around. About 216 meters (236 yd) along, the path branches; stay to the left. Another 200 m (219 yd) brings hikers to a small stream crossing. From this point, there’s only another 89 m (97 yd) to go. The final descent to the pool is exposed and a bit sketchy (especially when descending); make sure you have good footwear (FiveFingers are best, but good tennis shoes will work, too) and take special care on wet days.

No fees are charged and the trail is on public land. You can do this hike without a guide.

Camping

You can camp under the trees at the top of the eastern cliff — also the spot from which swimmers leap. Pack out everything you brought in and leave the site as you found it.

Plan for 3-4 hours for this hike including some quality time to swim and relax.

Map Guides >> Southern Kitti >> Lehnpaipohn Waterfall

By pni-surfclubPosted on August 2, 2013September 3, 2019Posted in birding, hiking & trekking, southern kitti, swimming & picnicking, waterfalls, western kittiTagged birding, fsm, hiking, islands, jumping, kitti, lehnpaipohn waterfall, micronesia, oceania, pacific, picnicking, pohnpei, swimming, trails, waterfalls

Rohi Waterfall

Rohi, the first district in Kitti after passing over the border from Madolenihmw, is host to an obscure, but beautiful, waterfall that few people — other than those who live practically at its feet and some Peace Corps volunteers stationed in the neighborhood — seem to know about. The high, sometimes wispy, falls plummets over a sheer wall hung with ferns and other climbing plants and is reminiscent of Sahwartik in Salapwuk, but with a much smaller and shallower pool and less volume overall. It’s unclear whether it has an official name; local residents mostly call it the “Rohi Waterfall” after the district within which it lies or “Nan Rohi Waterfall” after the name of the river.

To reach it, it’s best to park near the turn-off from the Circle Island Road, walk up the steep gravel secondary road, and continue to the houses at the end (bear left at the one major branch). Along the way is a stunning stand of huge hardwoods that are well-worth a good look. Once you reach the houses, you’ll want to ask permission to proceed, as the footpath crosses through several families’ front yards. The residents in the area, however, are welcoming and will likely be happy to show you to the falls or at the very least point you in the right direction. Once the path reaches the watercourse, the waterfall is evident just a bit upstream and one has merely to scramble along the rocky bank to the pool. The water is very clean and cool, and the spot is excellent for a short swim.

No fees are charged for this hike.

Plan for 1 hour round-trip with some swimming time at the falls.

Map Guides >> Southern Madolenihmw >> Rohi Waterfall

By pni-surfclubPosted on July 4, 2013September 3, 2019Posted in hiking & trekking, southern madolenihmw, swimming & picnicking, waterfallsTagged fsm, hiking, islands, madolenihmw, micronesia, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, rohi, rohi waterfall, swimming, trails

Mand Area Attractions

Mand is a little community of Pingelapese people who were given a parcel of land by the Nahnmwarki of Madolenihmw in Pohnpei’s modern past. You can’t call it a town, but it feels more connected than many of the island’s Pohnpeian communities. In addition to the Pingelapese who live in Mand Proper, there’s a small village to the north inhabited by Kapingamarangi islanders, who settled in the area very recently (Kapingamarangi is a distant atoll that is culturally and linguistically Polynesian but politically a part of Pohnpei State). The center of Mand consists of the elementary school and church. Next to the church is a monument which lists the names of the first settlers from Pingelap Atoll — the founding members of the community.

Kokomaru Waterfall

Most local people outside of Mand have never heard of Kokomaru, which is strange, because it is a gorgeous spot and worth visiting. The route to the waterfall, which lies just downstream from the Mand community, begins at the end of an unpaved road next to the Latter-Day Saints (LDS) Church, passes through a plot of private land, and then cuts through the forest to the river. The trail tends to be overgrown, as the falls is rarely visited except by an odd kid or two from the community. Once at the riverbed, you can get a good look at the waterfall, which is similar visually to Liduduhniap. Some of the kids in the area will tell you that the rock behind the falls looks like a heart from certain angles (we didn’t see it). The cliff on the south side of the waterfall pool is the nesting site for a huge colony of Caroline Islands swiftlets which seem to fill the air when they leave their nests.

Despite Kokomaru’s charms, you can’t swim here — riverside pig pens in Mand have severely contaminated the stream. Testing in April 2013 indicated that the water below Piladad had five times more E. coli than is considered safe for swimming. Don’t be fooled by the clarity of the stream; this is sadly in the top ten most polluted watercourses on Pohnpei Island. Even the Mand kids don’t swim there.

Plan for 45 minutes round-trip for this excursion.

Piladad Pool

There is only one place you can safely swim in the Mand area and that’s at a sweet little pond known as Piladad, which lies up-stream from the last inhabited house and pigpen. The pool, which was once a gauging station for the watershed (the gauge apparatus is still there), is large and pristine with enough depth in the middle for the fun rope swing that dangles from an overhanging tree. There are also two small waterfalls. Piladad is a great place to go on hot days; the spot is close to the feet of the mountains and the water tends to be quite chilly. This also means there’s some potential for flash floods, so it would be wise to avoid the spot when rain clouds lie over the mountains. A narrow, but well-used, 0.4 km footpath to the pool begins on the south bank of the river next to Mand Elementary School. At the one branch in the path, bear toward the river.

Almost any kid you see in the area can guide you to either location. Offer $10 for a group of five or less.

The hike takes about 10 minutes each way.

Nanpohnmweli (“Kerenis”) Waterfall

This very tall waterfall on the Sapwehrek stream can be reached by following the unpaved road 1.24 km (0.77 mi) north and east from Mand through a tidy Kapingamarangi settlement to the next stream over. The problem with visiting the falls from this access point, however, is that you end up at the top, where you can’t really see much. The rocks are treacherously slippery and there’s a long — certainly fatal — fall for anyone who makes a mistake. A local girl was killed when she fell from this spot a few years back. The nickname of the waterfall is derived from the Kapingamarangi pronunciation of the English word “Greenwich”, which is what sailors called Kapingamarangi Atoll during the whaling period. To visit this waterfall from the bottom, visit the Nanpohnmweli Waterfall page.

This walk takes 15-20 minutes each way.

Map Guides >> Southern Madolenihmw >> Mand Area Attractions

By pni-surfclubPosted on July 2, 2013September 3, 2019Posted in hiking & trekking, southern madolenihmw, swimming & picnicking, waterfallsTagged birding, fsm, hiking, kapingamarangi village, kokomaru waterfall, madolenihmw, mand, micronesia, nanpohnmweli waterfall, oceania, pacific, picnicking, piladad pool, pingelapese, pohnpei, ponape, swimming, trails, waterfalls

Madolenihmw Bay Area

Dauen Sapwalap / Senipehn Mangrove Reserve

Visit the Paddling Around Madolenihmw page for a detailed description of this location and the adventures to be had in the area.
Entering the mangrove reserve requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Kamau Pwoungapwoung

Though we didn’t map the hike to this destination as part of the eco-adventure map series (for lack of time), it would, never the less, be an exciting adventure to consider. Kamau Pwoungapwoung refers to a freshwater pool and waterfall at the headwaters of the Dipwilap Stream (Pilen Dipwilap), one of the tributaries of the Senipehn River (Pillapen Senipehn). The place is significant as the location where the last battle between the Saudeleur‘s warriors and Isokelekel’s men was fought. Upon being defeated by Isokelekel, the Saudeleur transformed himself into a small blue fish, that inhabits the pool to this day, and leaped into the waterfall. The hike would be a long one from the area around Pahn Sile. The closest access point would probably be from the direction of Nihpit fern meadow (reached from eastern Kitti).

The absolute best choice for a guide is Relio Lengsi. Give him a call at +691.924.2580 and discuss the best route options and access points for this location. Offer $50.00 for a full-day hike.

Nanpahlap Peak

The 137 m (449 ft) hill to the east of Takaiuh looks as if its top has been lopped off — which fits in with the story about its creation (see Takaiuh below). Though steep in places and somewhat overgrown, the ascent isn’t too strenuous. At the summit are the tumbled ruins of a prehistoric stone structure and a breath-taking view. The whole area around the southern foot of the hill is criss-crossed with Japanese trenches and dotted with tunnels, including at least one very long one leading into the hill. The grid of paddies and irrigation canals where the Japanese successfully cultivated rice (despite Pohnpei’s challenging climate conditions) are found on both sides of the unpaved access road, though you can get closest to the bulk of these fields from another road to the west.

Everything is private land, but no official access fees are charged.

To hire a guide, ask at the houses in the area or contact Hanke Albert at +691.320.4047. Offer $25.00 for Nanpahlap or a half-day of exploration in the area.

Download FREE BONUS INSET MAP 6 here

Nanwap Marine Protected Area (MPA)

Nanwap Marine Protected Area is a 3.05 km² (305 hectare) section of the barrier reef and adjacent lagoon areas on the north side of Kepidauen Deleur (passage). The sanctuary was founded by community members from Metipw and Lukop and their respective chiefs and gained legal status in 2010. It became the first of Pohnpei’s MPAs to have its own formal community-created management plan with the support of the Pohnpei MPA Executive Management Network and the state offices of the Department of Land and Natural Resources, Division of Fish and Wildlife, Office of Fisheries and Aquaculture, and Environmental Protection Agency. Nanwap is a “no-take zone,” which means no fishing or gathering of any kind is allowed within the boundaries. It is regarded as the “most biologically diverse and best preserved spawning and aggregation site” for many of Pohnpei’s core reef fish species. Snorkelers should seek out the protected blue holes on the west side of the reef, while SCUBA divers will want to do a drift dive on the southern wall of the reef during an in-coming tide.

Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Pahn Dieinuh

Visit the Paddling Around Madolenihmw page for a detailed description of this location.

Peiai

Peiai is a small populated place near the turn-off for Pahn Sile waterfall. During the battle between the warriors of Isokelekel and the army of the last Saudeleur, Peiai was the place where the tide of battle turned dramatically (hence, the name references a situation where the runner-up in a race pulls ahead of the leader — loosely translated “the battle is reversed”). Isokelekel’s men were being beaten down by the forces of Nan Madol when one of the conqueror’s greatest fighting men pinned his own foot to the ground with his spear, refusing to retreat and declaring that he would kill any man who tried to run away from the fight. Isokelekel’s men rallied behind this show of bravery and pushed back the Saudeleur‘s warriors, chasing them up the Senipehn River and eventually to Kamau Pwoungapwoung, a waterfall at the headwaters of the Dipwilap Stream, where the Saudeleur was finally defeated.

Sapwalap

Sapwalap (“large land”) is an expansive region of mostly flat ground that makes up a sizable chunk of central Madolenihmw. The Japanese recognized Sapwalap‘s potential as a site of large-scale agriculture. During the thirty years leading up to World War II, sugarcane was cultivated and processed at a facility near Kitamw (the tower is still partly visible in the jungle off the road) and rice was grown in a patchwork of paddies fed by irrigation canals. Strangely, no one is growing rice these days, but the paddies are still there opposite the gleaming LDS Church. Other fields are found as far east as Lukop.

Tahio

Tahio, on the south side of Nanpahlap, is another place where the Japanese were active. The access road was built by them and the coastal area is full of trenches, rifle pits, dugouts, and tunnels. Everything is overgrown, but anyone who pokes around will be rewarded with interesting finds. Bring a local resident along.

Takaiuh Peak

You can’t visit Madolenihmw without being arrested by the sight of Takaiuh, a 160 m (525 ft) peak shaped like a traffic cone that stands on the north side of the bay and seems to guard the entrance to the Sapwalap estuary. The mythical origin-story of the hill — which bears a striking resemblance to the Biblical tale of the tower of Babel — involves Mwohnmur and Sarapwau, two wily brothers who enter into many Pohnpeian legends (they also created the Sahwar Valley and the rock of Pohnpaip).

How Takaiuh Came to Be

Long ago, two boys named Mwohnmur and Sarapwau were born in Salapwuk (Kitti) to a woman named Lienlama. The boys were always involved in clever schemes and mischief and traveled far and wide doing great works. Once, the brothers took a piece of stone, and using it like a canoe, paddled to Pohndolen Imwinsapw near what is now Tahio in Madolenihmw. There, Mwohnmur and Sarapwau amused themselves by piling up rocks until they had formed a large hill. A local demi-god named Lapongo saw what they were doing and wasn’t pleased, so he threw a stone at their hill and destroyed it. He then challenged the brothers to a competition to see who could build a mountain the fastest. The three set to work, but it soon became apparent that the boys were winning. Their mountain was so tall it had reached the sky. Being a poor loser, Lapongo became enraged. He picked up a stone and threw it at the new mountain, which broke into six pieces. The base of the mountain that remained standing was named Takaiuh (“standing stone”).

This was not the end of the conflicts between the brothers and Lapongo, however. Lapongo mocked and ridiculed the boys whenever he could, and they did not like it. Now, the brothers liked to play at a place called Pahnlikes, below the spot where they had settled on Likes peak west of modern-day Sapwalap. There was a steep slope there that they would slide down for fun, sitting upon the leaf sheaths of the kotop palm (Clinostigma ponapensis). The boys knew that Lapongo had been watching them and was aware of their play place, so they decided to trick him. Lapongo was invited to slide down the slope with the boys, but they chose a spot where the slope ended at the waterside (possibly the southern tributary of Pilen Kitamw). All three began sliding down the hill. When Mwohnmur and Sarapwau reached the bottom, they leaped off their sheaths and dived to safety, but Lapongo went straight and fell into the water. He sank down into the depths, and the brothers threw rocks on top of him to keep him from resurfacing.

Takaiuh is actually an island separated from the coast by a strip of mangrove forest. It was once inhabited, but is no longer. Though the hill is climbable, the ascent is extremely dangerous, characterized by very steep slopes and cliffs prone to rockslides with little or nothing solid to hold on to. For this reason we strongly advise visitors to enjoy Takaiuh from below rather than trying for the summit. Hikers who insist on seeking the summit, do so at their own risk. Distant views of the peak are found along the Circle Island Road, but the best close-up view from land is from the old Japanese road in Kepine. According to residents living in the area, the Japanese abandoned an attempt to build a trail all the way to the top of the hill. Some of the low wall can still be seen on the lower slope.

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By pni-surfclubPosted on May 5, 2013September 3, 2019Posted in biking, birding, central madolenihmw, hiking & trekking, historical sites, islands, paddling, prehistoric ruins, scuba diving, snorkeling, surfing, swimming & picnicking, waterfalls, world war sitesTagged bay, canoeing, caves, dauen sapwalap, fsm, hiking, historical sites, islands, kamau pwoungapwoung, kayaking, madolenihmw, mangrove forests, marine sanctuaries, micronesia, nanpahlap, nanwap, oceania, pacific, paddleboarding, paddling, pahn dieinuh, peiai, pohnpei, ponape, rice paddies, sapwalap, senipehn mangrove reserve, stand-up paddleboarding, SUP, tahio, takaiuh, trails, trenches, tunnels, waterfalls, world war sites