“Black Coral” is the southernmost islet in the Namwmour chain of islands that straddles Kehpara Pass (Dauen Kehpara) on the southwest corner of Pohnpei’s barrier reef. It’s true name is said to be Kehpara, but hardly anyone calls it that. Instead, Kehpara is usually used to refer to the island on the opposite side of the pass (island on lower right side of top image). In the mid-1600s, the conquering hero, Isokelekel, first entered Pohnpei’s barrier reef through Kehpara Pass on his way from Ahnd Atoll to Nan Madol. The sandy and well-shaded coral island, which lies within the Kehpara Marine Protected Area (MPA), is currently owned by the Adams family (the proprietors of Ace Hardware and Ace Office Supply). Black Coral is immaculately maintained with serpentine footpaths running here and there through large sprawling trees and several simple, wooden huts for overnight camping. Good snorkeling is located off the eastern shore and in the pass to the north, where white-tip and black-tip reef sharks, spotted eagle rays, and other marine wonders can often be seen. The best SCUBA diving is along the outer edge of the barrier reef north of the pass, a spot called Kehpara Wall. The area is a spawning ground for several varieties of protected grouper. Though some sandy areas appear at low tide along the inner coast, Black Coral doesn’t have any true beaches.
To make reservations for day visits or night stays and to arrange boat transport from the Seinwar Launch behind Seinwar Elementary School call ACE at +691.320.8279 / 5637.
PC: Lee Arkhie Perez
Black Coral from above. (PC: Lee Arkhie Perez)
Black coral on the left, Kehpara on the right. (PC: Lee Arkhie Perez)
Black Coral (top island) and Kehpara (bottom island)
Beyond Pohnpei’s lagoon, the closest land to be found exists on two “satellite atolls” called Ahnd (pronounced änt) and Pakin (pä.keen). An atoll is made up of a number of coralline islets in a ring around a relatively shallow lagoon and is created when a high, volcanic island submerges over millions of years, leaving only the reef that fringed its shores. The islands form as sand, coral rubble, and other detritus collect on the reef and begin to support trees, small plants, and animals. Coral sand accumulates on the lagoon sides of the islands and creates beaches.
Ahnd (“Ant”) Atoll
Ahnd Atoll, popularly but erroneously spelled “Ant,” is 16 km (8 mi) southwest of Rohnkitti and consists of 13 low, luxuriant islands 3-4 meters above sea-level and a lagoon of 70 km2 entered by a single passage in the reef.
When the larger-than-life hero Isokelekel voyaged to Pohnpei, intent on overthrowing the rulers of Nan Madol, he came first to Ahnd and lived there for some time, learning about Pohnpeian customs from its inhabitants. In modern times, the entire atoll became the property of a single Pohnpeian family — the descendents of Henry Nanpei, who lived from 1862 to 1928. Nanpei’s shrewd business sense and knack for manipulating local power politics enabled him to acquire the atoll and amass a great deal of other land.
Ahnd Atoll Channel
Black tip reef sharks at Ahnd Atoll (PC: Tia Panuelo)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Imwen Sapw Island and channel entrance
Today Ahnd has a few human residents, the biosphere rangers who make sure people do not fish within the protected area. There is also resort run by the Nanpei family located on the island of Pasa (information for booking trips can be found below).
It is home to some of the largest colonies of black noddies, terns, boobies, and frigatebirds in the Pacific as well as a healthy community of gray reef sharks in and around Dauenai (passage).
The most interesting islands to camp on are Pasa, Nikahlap, Dolen Mwuroi, and Nahlos. The former two have long stretches of deserted white-sand beach and excellent swimming. Nan Imwinsapw is closest to Dauenai (passage), where all the best snorkeling and the most accessible diving is found, but it has a big rat problem. Pahn Mwek is near to both excellent snorkeling and some of the rare diving that exists inside the lagoon. For the most part, however, the lagoon is the domain of snorkelers, sandy and punctuated by beautiful coral heads with lots of color and life at low tide.
Dauenai on the south side is where most people go to SCUBA dive. It is known for orange sponges (on the west wall) and large numbers of barracudas, jacks, and sharks throughout. Reef fish populations around the pass, unfortunately, have declined in the last two decades, but hopefully will recover now that the area is protected. Even so, the place still feels busy compared to other locations and you’ll see all the familiar species — unicornfish, triggerfish, wrasses, surgeons, groupers, butterflyfish, angelfish, moorish idols, and more. Moray eels might be spotted on occasion. Spinner dolphins are regularly seen at the mouth of the passage and in the waters around Ahnd. Visibility in the pass, though not as spectacular as outside the reef, can reach 50 meters (164 feet) — certainly nothing to complain about.
In addition to drift-dives on either side of the deep passage, there is stunning (and frequently overlooked) diving on the outer wall of the barrier reef on the northwest side near Olouna (often known as “bird island” for the huge colonies of seabirds that nest there), and north of Pasa. The west wall of the barrier reef plummets to great depths, and because it is more protected from the northeasterly winds and waves, it is marked by an abundance of soft coral, holes, tunnels, and caves — an exciting place for any advanced diver. Giant clams are also common. Visibility on the outside edges can be extraordinary, exceeding 70 meters (230 feet). Currents can be swift both in the pass and around the outer walls.
Visiting Ahnd Atoll / Permission & Protected Areas
Because Ahnd is a privately owned island and UNESCO marine biosphere reserve permission is required from the Nanpei family for visits.
Contact LP Gas at +691.320.5661 / 2675 to make arrangements.
Core area(s) comprise a strictly protected ecosystem that contributes to the conservation of landscapes, ecosystems, species, and genetic variation.
A buffer zone surrounds or adjoins the core areas, and is used for activities compatible with sound ecological practices that can reinforce scientific research, monitoring, training, and education.
The transition area is the part of the reserve where the greatest activity is allowed, fostering economic and human development that is socio-culturally and ecologically sustainable.
Olouna (“Bird Island”)
Landing on Olouna island is prohibited to prevent disruption of the habitats of the seabirds who nest there. If you’d like to take a look at Olouna, consider making a kayak trip around it. You can arrange to pay your boat extra to transport a small ocean kayak or two.
Pakin Atoll
Pakin Atoll is composed of about 16 low islands, 13.6 km2 of reef, and a lagoon of 11 km2. It lies 38 km (24 mi) northwest of Palikir. In the early 1900s, Sokehs residents of Mortlockese descent were allowed to settle on the atoll, where their descendents (about 80) live to this day. Most of the islands are sparsely inhabited and all have excellent beaches, swimming, and nearby snorkeling.
One complication of visiting, however, is that Pakin has no true passage, making entry into the lagoon impossible for large boats and both difficult and dangerous for small boats. Boats enter at high tide at one of two places in the barrier reef (the usual spot is known as Uhrek), where the coral is slightly deeper than elsewhere — by a matter of a few inches. The crossing is narrow and complicated by strong surge. Except at the highest tides, the crossing must be carefully timed to correspond with the surge. Boats can easily capsize in the surf or be thrown up on the reef; several locals have been killed at the spot while trying to make the crossing in less than ideal conditions. When planning a visit, make sure that you hire an experienced pilot who knows this particular crossing and is committed to the safety of his passengers. Also, it is important to plan arrivals and departures to coincide with the highest tides.
All of the diving and the best snorkeling is on the reef wall outside the lagoon, where water clarity and reef conditions are simply mind-blowing. The wall north of Nikahlap is known for sharks, while the opposite side of the island is home to large schools barracuda. For sea turtle sightings, divers will want to try the walls on the northeast side. Turtles nest on many of the small islets north of Painpwel, Sapangin, Kehrot, and Osetik.
Mwudokolos is found a half-kilometer (0.33 mi) northeast of Metipw and easily accessed from the coral-dredged causeway/dock found there (ask at the nearest house for permission to launch if you’re paddling out). The privately owned, but uninhabited, island has prehistoric stone structures that date to the Nahnmwarki Period of Nan Madol (post-1700). Glass beads, sherds, and clay pipes have also been found there by archaeologists, suggesting that Mwudokolos was occupied by foreign traders in the late 1800s. There’s some nice swimming and snorkeling northeast of the island.
This island is claimed by the same family as Dahu Reirei and has no true name, but as it lies adjacent to the primary channel every boat in the area uses to go from Areu and Ohwa to Madolenihmw Bay, it’s known by most people as Lepin Dau (or sometimes “Channel Island”). Lepin Dau is larger and higher than Dahu Reirei and has some welcoming tree-cover. The reef pass on the west side is a nice spot to snorkel at slack tide, but at other times, the current can be so strong that snorkelers and swimmers run a strong risk of being swept away. A better spot for snorkeling is in the blue holes around the southeast side — well out of the path of the current. Here you can find beautiful coral grottoes, schools of needlefish, barracuda, cuttlefish, trumpetfish, angelfish, and parrotfish, an odd seasnake (the latter are venomous, but so passive that they pose little danger to snorkelers), and from time to time even eagle rays and small green turtles.
To obtain permission for overnight stays or to arrange boat transport from Ninleu, call +691.924.2229.
Uninhabited little Dekehmwahu (“good island”) is located just east of Nahpali in Madolenihmw Municipality. It’s a rough oval with a couple of small, sandy beaches and a few places to pitch a tent. The best beach is at the northwestern end, while the most practical camp site is on the southeast coast. Mangroves skirt most of the western coast. With a few exceptions, the surrounding ocean is shallow and covered with beds of seagrass, but good snorkeling can be found not far to the south at the Namwen Na Stingray Sanctuary (a short swim away). Surrounding shallow reefs make the island difficult to reach by boat, except at the highest tides, but it’s a great place for kayakers to visit. Currents can be extremely strong in the area at certain times.
To obtain permission for overnight stays, call McKenzie Senda at +691.320.8682 / 7147 / 4062.
Dahu Reirei (“long channel”) is a long, narrow, man-made islet constructed on a shallow reef with several huts for picnickers and campers and lots of pleasant swimming and snorkeling nearby. The tiny place can get uncomfortably crowded on weekends and holidays, but is wonderful at other times. One of Dahu Reirei‘s biggest draws is its namesake — the crystal-clear channel along the west side, which is host to many varieties of staghorn coral and swarms of reef fish; it’s a magical place to swim. The reef walls north of the island, however, are better for snorkeling (follow the reef as it curves east and north). Note that Dahu Reirei is really about being IN the water as the island itself isn’t much of anything. And in the water is exactly where you’ll want to be when the temperatures soar (there is little shade) and when the land shrinks at high tide (the island is hardly a meter above sea level). The family of the owner lives in a stilt-hut at the north end of the island.
To make reservations for day visits or overnight stays and to arrange boat transport from Ninleu, call +691.924.2229. There is an admission fee for the island so be sure to ask for quote if you would like to book a trip.
One of the most rewarding routes for Japanese World War II-era historical sites follows a road 0.46 km (0.29 mi) northeast of the turn-off to the FSM capital. This track was built by the Japanese in the 1930s to access the many military sites in the area and remains unpaved. Whether it is public or private, however, seems to be a matter of some debate. FSM Telecom, which maintains a mobile phone tower near “Radar Station Hill” and uses the road often, says that the road and the areas immediately alongside it belong to the municipality and that people living beyond the Thomas residence are squatters without legal land claims. Even so, a family living on the south side of the road about 1 km (0.62 mi) from the Circle Island Road insists that everything beyond their house is private. There are two ways for visitors to deal with this issue: either (1) hire a knowledgeable local guide to escort you on your hike (you’ll likely find more with them anyway) or (2) visit the house in question and ask permission yourself. During our fieldwork, we used both options successfully. The road, though unpaved, is in pretty good condition, and as it doesn’t climb much, it’s a great choice for either hiking or biking. You can park your vehicle at the beginning near the Circle Island Road and go from there.
“Bunker Hill”
About 100 m (109 yd) from the starting point, you can cut off the road to the right and climb up the grassy hill, making your way toward the landowner’s house about 200 m (219 yd) to the northeast. This is the place to ask for permission to explore in detail. There are several points of interest worth looking into. At the southwest and northeast ends of the hill, there are bunker-like observation stations that consist of curved tunnels with domed concrete roofs and several gun ports. The southern bunker site is well-hidden with the entrance near the base of a large tree that has grown up in recent years. Entering is a dirty job, but once you’re inside, the structure becomes quite roomy. The gun ports allow light inside. The northern site is close to a large cassava plantation and is kept cleared. You can enter easily from either end. These structures were likely manned by a few riflemen and intended to protect the roads on both sides of the hill. In view of the landowner’s house you can also find a zigzag trench and two gun sites, one of which was probably a medium-sized anti-aircraft gun. No guns remain now. Some people believe a gun at this location shot down the American bomber “Love Bug”. Others say it was one on Dolen Pahniepw.
Paul Thomas’s Hill
Another 277 m (303 yd) further down the road, one comes to the residence of a friendly West Virginian native, Paul Thomas, and his local wife. Thomas enjoys a good chat, and if you ask politely, will happily point you in the direction of several interesting sites on the hill above his house. Easily found are two pairs of bunkers similar to those mentioned already, and between these, three small gun sites and several foxholes. Thomas keeps the hill trimmed and neat; all but one of the sites (the first set of bunkers) lie along the crest of the hill over a distance of about 125 m (137 yd). The hill commands sweeping views of the Palikir valley to the west.
If you want to make arrangements ahead of time, call Paul Thomas at +691.320.4562.
Dolen Pahniepw
The next stop is Dolen Pahniepw. An overgrown trail begins off the right side of the road 0.56 km (0.35 mi) past Thomas’s driveway and runs 0.43 km (0.27 mi) to the summit of the hill. About 300 m (328 yd) along the trail, one comes to the ruins of an army barracks, which consists of concrete house posts, foundations, and a bombed-out cistern. Sets of concrete steps led to the entrances of the wooden buildings. Some scrounging in the jungle around the site should yield some old Japanese beer bottles. At the end of the trail is a large anti-aircraft gun site, which probably housed a medium-sized gun similar to those on Lenger Island. On the northeast side of the hill, you may be able to locate the foundation of a radio tower, some tunnels, and the chassis of a truck.
At the southern end of the hill near the road, you can scramble up the bank and find a pair of unfinished small gun emplacements, some trenches in the woods, and a defused bomb.
“Radar Station Hill”
The road ends near the FSM Telecom cellular phone tower at the summit of a hill. A footpath continues west to a cement platform for a Japanese radar array, two foxholes, and two circular gun sites. A large bomb crater south of the road makes an excellent tent site for campers with unobstructed views of the whole of mainland Sokehs. Back east down the road, an L-shaped cutting leads to a path and eventually to the site of a generator station with a concrete storage alcove built into the embankment and a rusting motor.
Plan for a half day to full day for this hike/ride, depending on how many sites you want to explore.
No guide is necessary for the Military Road sites as long as you ask permission wherever private land is an issue. However, you are likely to discover much more of interest with a guide who knows the sites. Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes around Sokehs, if desired. Offer $25-50 for a group of five or less.
PBJ-H1 “Love Bug” Bomber Ruins
Throughout 1944 and early 1945, the U.S. carried out a brutal bombing campaign of Japanese fortifications on Pohnpei. The only bomber ever shot down was a PBJ-1H (the U.S. Marines version of the Airforce B-25H) nicknamed “Love Bug” and piloted by First Lieutenant William J. Love. On February 6, 1945, while on a mission to destroy targets at the nearby Palikir airfield, the Love Bug was picked out of the sky by an anti-aircraft gun on one of the nearby hills (possibly “Bunker Hill”, Paul Thomas’s hill, or Dolen Pahniepw). The plane burst into flames upon impact, killing the entire crew. After the crash, Japanese soldiers collected the bodies and buried them in a marked grave near the crash site. A monument to the crew used to be found at the burial site, but it was taken apart by looters in the 1980s.
The crew was disinterred and reburied several times during the American Period before coming to rest at Jefferson Barracks National Cemetery in the U.S. — all except Sgt. David Snider, whose whereabouts were unknown until 1948. The wreckage was not positively identified until 2001, when two aviation archaeologists surveyed the area. The tail section and rudder were still visible in the forest in the 1980s, but the site has been heavily looted since and only a few large pieces remain — the port engine (sans prop), landing gear and wheel, and a portion of a stabilizer. Bits of wreckage are strewn across an area of some 7,000 square meters. Three defused bombs are also said to be in the vicinity, but we were unable to locate them during our visits.
It’s easiest to visit the site from the unpaved water tank road behind the FSM presidential housing facility. No guide is necessary, but you’ll have to ask the officer at the security check-point to let you through. The wreck is found on the forested slope a few meters off the north edge of the road before the water tank.
Plan for 1 hour for this hike. No guide is necessary, but you will need to ask the security guard on the road to let you through.
Nankewi River Vicinity
Ethanol Manufacturing Site
On the banks of Pillapen Nankewi (Nankewi River) the remnants of Japanese industry can still be seen. Neat stone retaining walls frame the river and trenches and pipes form a grid on the north bank. On the south bank are three large fermentation tanks, a variety of other distilling gear, brick ovens built into the hillside, a huge press, a crank, and other rusting machinery. The equipment was likely used to distill ethanol from sugar cane for fuel and other industrial purposes. A great deal of Japanese beer and liquor bottles litter the spot.
Parpwu Waterfall
The rather flat terrain in greater Sokehs doesn’t make for a lot of waterfalls, but Parpwu (a.k.a. “Nan Lohlo” or “Nankewi”) — located on the Nankewi River just behind the now deserted Sokehs Shopping Center — is unusual because it’s so close to the coast, almost in the mangroves. In fact, during very high tides, you can kayak all the way from Sokehs Bay to the falls. The waterfall is a beautiful sight, but unfortunately, upstream piggeries have polluted the watercourse and swimming is ill-advised (even though you’ll see local kids from the area doing just that). Photo courtesy of Bill Jaynes.
Plan for 1 hour for this hike. Its easy to find someone to guide you down to the falls and/or distillery site. Just ask in the area. Offer $6.00.
The highest mountain in the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM) is called Nahnalaud (which means “big mountain”) and is located almost in the exact middle of Pohnpei Island. Pohnpeians consider the mountain sacred and regard it with respect and reverence, though most people have never been there because of the long, difficult hike involved. Local deer hunters and upland sakau farmers are the most frequent visitors to the highland region. A limited number of foreigners also attempt the summit.
In reality, Nahnalaud is not a single mountain but rather the highest peak in Pohnpei’s contiguous central mountain system, which separates the five chiefdoms. The primary central ridge runs from west to east and then curves north toward U not far beyond Nahnalaud. Additionally, a secondary ridge runs south, leading to Pohnpei’s second highest peak, Ngihneni, and then turning sharply to the west. The two ridges fence in the long, narrow Nanmeir Valley — the most remote region on the island.
The exact elevation at the Nahnalaud summit is a matter of debate as the survey methods used in the 1970s to map the island have a significant margin of error. The official number is 772 meters (2,533 ft), but the peak may actually be higher than that — likely close to 780 m. Ngihneni (“spirit’s tooth”) is nearly the same elevation (a difference of a few meters), which has generated a long-running dispute about which is actually the highest point. Nett, Kitti, and Madolenihmw have also argued about which chiefdom can claim Nahnalaud, but according to the municipal boundary lines on the 1983 USGS map, each of these municipalities has a piece of the peak.
Hikers should be careful not to underestimate the mountain. Though the distance is not extreme, the terrain is. Experienced trekkers will find all of the approaches challenging merely because of the very rugged nature of Pohnpei’s interior mountains. The concept of switchbacks is little known on Pohnpei; trails are rough, rocky, and often go straight up the slope. Hikers who plan to tackle Nahnalaud should be prepared to walk along narrow ridges with steep slopes on either side; cross jumbles of broken, slippery rocks; ford medium-sized rivers (particularly on the Nett and Madolenihmw routes); walk in shallow, rocky riverbeds; ascend and descend slopes of 50 degrees or steeper; wade through muddy mires; cross slick logs; and push through high grass or ferns.
Despite the difficulty in getting to the top, the trip is well worth it. Those who have never visited a cloud forest before will be awed by the otherworldly beauty of the ridge, a perpetually dripping wonderland of stunted, hoary trees, air plants, and bryophytic growth. Virtually every surface is covered with a thick layer of spongy golden moss and the ground is composed of layer upon layer of damp, decayed matter. The area, which never dries out, gets at least 8.3 meters (325 in) of rain every year and is shrouded in thick fog much of the time, making clear views from the summit a rare occurrence.
This well-defined trail up to the primary ridge and eventually to Nahnalaud was first promoted in 2013 by a local business calling itself Pohnpei Trailways. The idea was that this trail, starting in Pehleng, could be hiked by tourists without the assistance of a local guide. We strongly recommend that you do NOT do it that way. In fact, we think it’s a very a bad idea. Though at the time of writing (2014) the entire length of the trail was marked with pink flagging tied to tree branches, there is still plenty of potential for visitors to go astray. Furthermore, accidents or injuries without a local guide present could result in disaster. Remember that Pohnpei has no search and rescue service.
The true ascent begins after passing through a cluster of houses (ask permission) 0.95 km beyond the trailhead. After that, the trail is wide and true as it climbs steadily for 1.45 km (20% slope average) through the forest to the open fern meadow atop Dolen Salapwuk (510 m), where there are some good views in clear weather. The trail then re-enters the forest and begins to climb again for 4.6 km (13% slope average), narrowing as it comes up to the main ridge (696 m). Just before Shelter 1 (Dolmweir), there’s a 315 meter-long segment that is less than a meter wide with precipitous slopes on both sides; we’ve dubbed it the “Knife Edge.”
Shelter 1 is located at Dolmweir, where an appendage of the mountain thrusts north from the main ridge. There is no flowing water nearby. The privy is located 22 m to the north. After Shelter 1, the trail descends steeply by about 62 m on the south side of the ridge and skirts the base of a rocky cliff before climbing back to the ridge-top. From there it goes up and down for 2.94 km before reaching Mountain Shelter 2 roughly 5 minutes below the Nahnalaud summit.
Plan for 5-7 hours from the trailhead to Shelter 1 and 3-4 hours from there to the summit.
NOTE: As of February 2014, the pandanus-thatch roofs of the two ridge shelters were in very bad shape, heavily deteriorated and leaky. Plan accordingly.
The Origin of the Yap Banana
In the westward land of Sapani, a woman named Lienpwel (“woman of earth”) had two daughters, Lisoumokaiap and Lisoumokalang. The daughters decided to take a canoe and look for new land in the east and brought with them some “underworld yams”, banana shoots, and a stone called the Stone of Sahwar. The sisters eventually landed at a place in what is now Pwoaipwoai district (at that time the island was smaller and Pwoaipwoai lay near the coast). There they placed the stone and planted the yams. The stone was highly reflective, and when the sun would hit it, it would shine brightly (hence the name Sahwar, which means “shining” or “flashing”).
The younger of the two sisters, Lisoumokalang, eventually returned home to Sapani. On the way she visited the islands of Yap and propagated a new type of banana, which thrived and became the tallest of all banana varieties. Some time later, a Pohnpeian man who lived in a place called Loangen Kitti was looking west toward the sunset and he saw the tall banana plant in the distance. The ripe fruit were attracting many birds, so he found two starlings – one a common Micronesian starling (sioahk) and the other a Pohnpei mountain starling (sie) – and he took them up to a high mountain in Pehleng. The Micronesian starling was a lazy flier, but the mountain starling was clever and efficient. He sent both flying toward Yap. The Micronesian starling was distracted on the way and diverted from its course. Only the Pohnpei mountain starling reached its destination. It joined the other birds in eating the bananas, and while it did so, a seed became lodged in its feathers. Both birds eventually flew back to Pohnpei and landed at the peak of Pekenuht (which, appropriately, means “banana feces”). The seed carried by the mountain starling fell to the ground and propagated utin iap (the Yap banana).
Enipein Powe Approach (Kitti)
This route begins at the end of an unpaved road in Enipein Powe and climbs gradually on a well-defined footpath up an out-thrust from the southern ridge. At the top, the trail passes through a saddle between Nahnan Pwoaipwoai and Dolen Uhd, then descends slightly along the inside of the ridge slope, finally arriving at a massive overhanging rock known by local guides as “the cave.” The cave has nice views through the trees of the Nanmeir Valley at the Lehnmesi River source below. You can also see Nahnalaud to the northwest and make a guess at the direction of Ngihneni to the east. The cave is an excellent place to camp with a cushioned fern-lined floor (that stays dry in wet weather) and usually some dry firewood stowed by hunters in the vicinity (replace what you use).
From the cave, the trail continues along the inner slope below Ngihneni, crosses several small streams, and then climbs steeply (20% slope average) to the top of the main ridge. At this point it’s just a short walk west along the ridge path to the first open viewpoint near a USGS benchmark. The spot people typically consider to be the summit is 5-10 minutes further, and Shelter 2 is just below that.
Plan for 6-8 hours from the trailhead to the cave and 90 minutes to 3 hours from there to the summit.
Salapwuk Approach (Kitti)
There are many ways to Nahnalaud from Salapwuk but they all begin at the end of the road beyond Salapwuk Elementary School. The early part of the hike uses the same trail as the Six Waterfalls, but at the place where one would turn toward the river to encounter Falls #1 (Pahnairlap), one instead follows a trail going northeast. This trail stays north of the river, crossing above Iro, Nan Emp, and Lipwentiak waterfalls. The latter is the most spectacular, located where the river gets funneled into a narrow channel and makes a hairpin turn. According to legend, this feature of the river was created when the matriarch of the Great Eel Clan encountered an eel hunter and writhed violently in horror at the sight of the dead eels he was carrying. Small pools above the falls are home to Pohnpei’s endemic freshwater shrimp, which the guides might be willing to catch for dinner. After that, the trail only meets the river again twice, where it cuts through a wide loop in the watercourse. It then turns north and climbs 362 meters in elevation to the primary ridge, not far from the summit.
Nanipil Approach (Nett)
Though slightly shorter, the Nanipil approach to Nahnalaud is certainly challenging. It’s significantly steeper than the other routes (except Salapwuk) and the trail is not well-maintained once you reach the rear of the valley. The hike starts at the house next to the hydroelectric building at the end of Nanipil River Road. Immediately behind the house, hikers must cross a river and then shortly after that a small stream. An easy segment follows with a well-defined residential path leading to the last house in this part of the valley (1.39 km), where an old man lives alone.
Past the house, the route continues on a fairly well-defined path that crosses the river several times (these crossings can be tricky if there has been a lot of recent rain). In a few places, you have to walk in the river itself, which can be quite difficult given the slickness of the rocks. Finally, after 2.94 km (3% slope average), the trail begins to climb out of the valley on the east side of the river and follows a sub-ridge up from there (3.16 km with a 22% slope average).
The climb has several pitches with small, flat rest areas in between. The first stop has a conspicuous tree of gigantic proportions entwined with vines almost as massive. The second stop is frequently used as a camp site by hunters and is one of the few places on the mountain with mobile phone reception. The final segment leading to the primary ridge is steep and often muddy. In places it follows the natural pathway of small streamlets (keep an eye out for a small waterfall high up on the slope). Once reaching the main ridge (754 m elevation), it’s an easy 0.56 km walk east to Shelter 2, a typical nahs-style thatched hut that can sleep ten or so.
NOTE: As of February 2014, a large part of the roof of this shelter had rotted away, leaving the central part of the hut exposed to the elements.
Nankepinmerepw Approach (Madolenihmw)
This route passes through the gorgeous valley of Nankepinmerepw, following the upper tributaries of the Nan Riohk Stream and eventually arriving north of Nahnalaud on an arm of the primary mountain system.
The hike begins at a rutted turn-off from the well-graded (but unpaved) road to Pahn Sile Waterfall, leads to a metal footbridge over the Senipehn River — the only bridge like it on the island — and connects with a path on the far side. From there, the trail meanders northwest not far from the Nan Riohk and more or less parallel to it.
The first kilometer or so cuts through cultivated lands. Then it begins to follow the water more closely as it passes into the wilder riverine forests. There are at least nine major stream crossings in this next segment, some of which may be difficult or impossible if there has been a lot of recent rain. Above the last major Nan Riohk tributary, where the name of the stream changes to Nankepinmerepw, hikers take to the stream bed itself, which is certainly the most challenging aspect of the route (13% slope average). The algae-slimed rocks are slick and dangerous and hikers may find that they have to go very slow and use both hands to avoid disastrous slips; it would be easy to snap an ankle or shatter a kneecap in this place. Despite the rough terrain, the scenery in this narrow valley, often fenced on both sides by high rocky walls, is terrific. At times, the trail passes along the tops of vertical prismatic basalt columns.
The first few points of interest are beautiful pools that will tempt any overheated hiker — and why resist? A bit further is a small waterfall near a prismatic basalt quarry site for Nan Madol. Abandoned prisms can be found lying in the stream bed in several places — the largest just below the falls. How exactly prisms were hauled down to the coast from this site is anyone’s guess. After a short, steep section (22% slope average), the valley terminates at a huge “horsetail” waterfall that the route crosses above (you can scramble down the eastern slope without too much difficulty for a better view from the side). The shallow pools above the falls are also an excellent place for a look at Pohnpei’s native crayfish.
Past the big waterfall, the stream narrows until it reaches a third waterfall — this one short and wide, falling over a straight lip (usually called a “block falls” or “sheet falls”) — and then diminishes to a trickle. From this point, the hike climbs west (29% slope average) and then south again as it follows the ridgeline (18% slope average) toward the Nahnalaud summit.
Though it is possible to hike up and down Nahnalaud in one day, as we did during one of the many data-gathering excursions, we don’t recommend that you put yourself through that kind of torture. Hiking to Nahnalaud should be considered a 2-day affair with one night spent either at the cave, one of the mountain shelters, or somewhere else on the ridge. Inexperienced or out-of-shape hikers may need three days or more.
Hiring a Local Guide
All of the routes up to Nahnalaud require an experienced local guide.
You should offer your guide no less than $160 if there are five or less in your group and at least $220 if there are more than five (plus tips). If you do the math, you’ll see that this is quite reasonable. With five people, each hiker pays just $32 plus tips — a super bargain. If you can’t assemble a group, you’ll still only pay $80 per person with two hikers, which is less than you’d pay for two dives at virtually any SCUBA company in the world (and this is two days and one night). Obviously, if you plan to take a slower pace and do the hike over three or more days, you’ll need to pay your guide more.
Your guide is your lifeline; you will depend on him to keep you safe and on the right track throughout the duration of your hike. Guides provide other useful services as well, such as making campfires in damp weather. If you expect your guide to cook meals for the group or carry any gear for you, he should be paid extra. Agree on a price beforehand.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nahnalaud.
In the remote mountainous area called Pohn Pehnmen is an upland savannah similar to those on the Nihpit plateau, but smaller and at a much higher elevation. The meadow, reached by deviating west from the Enipein Powe trail to Nahnalaud, has a strong slope to it with a central hill and an open view of the ocean and lowlands. Most of the area is covered by low, spreading ferns and club moss, while giant tree ferns and endemic kotop palms (Clinostigma ponapensis) are clustered along the fringe.
Like Nihpit, the moderately difficult, but rarely steep, trail is dominated by groves of Atuna racemosa, which Pohnpeians call ais. This tree’s unusually hard wood, termite-resistant quality, and straightness makes it a popular choice for construction projects on the island. The fruit are also used medicinally and to create the red paint commonly used on Pohnpei canoe hulls. You’ll see bio-luminescent salengen eni(“ghost’s ear”) mushrooms, many types of bracket fungi, including one that has sadly been the target of poaching by visitors from at least one Asian nation, and a startling diversity of bryophitic growths on trees and logs. There are a number of small stream crossings. Birders will find a lot to look at both in the forests on the way up and around the meadow.
The hike begins at the end of the road near the FSM Telecom mobile phone tower, cuts through a grassy clearing, and enters the first. The 0.26 km (0.16 mi) to the first branch in the path is mostly flat; bear right. After that it climbs pretty steadily for 1.4 km (0.87 mi) at about a 17-18% slope. There’s another branch about 0.52 km (0.32 mi) from the top; again, bear right.
Plan for 5-8 hours for this hike.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Mallen Pohn Pehnmen. Offer $25-50.00 for a group of five or less.
Unlike some of the other unusual rock formations on Pohnpei, the massive rock of Nipai is easy to miss. Obscuring trees prevent it from having the prominent visibility on the Circle Island Road that would make it an eye-catcher, even though it’s only about 230 meters north of the asphalt. Never the less, this utterly huge 160 by 120 meter basalt outcropping in Enipein Powe is wholly unique, easy to access, and absolutely a must-see for any adventurer. The rounded shape of the rock and its many terraces are probably a result of erosion and may indicate that the feature is much older than other more jagged outcroppings like Pwisehn Malek and Sokehs Rock.
The unpaved turn-off on the inland side of the road is 2.2 km (1.37 mi) east of Enipein Pah Elementary School or 1.34 km (0.83 mi) east of the Semwei River bridge. From there, it’s an easy 0.37 km (0.23 mi) walk along the dirt road to the last house (9-17% slope), where a 0.2 km (0.12 mi) footpath leads east (4% slope average), crosses the small Nanwou Stream (Pilen Nanwou) and arrives at the western base of rock. The slope is not too steep here and there is a corridor (36% slope average) where you can find your way up without much difficulty or danger. Once on top, the levels of the rock can be explored and the spectacular view enjoyed in full.
Camping
Many locations on the terraces are perfect for tent camping, and you can filter water at the Nanwou Stream (Pilen Nanwou).
The area in which the trailhead resides is known locally as “Palkalou” and belongs to the Palasko Family. The first house on the left after crossing the bridge heading to Pahntehlap is the residence of the landowners (marked on the map with a yellow star). An access fee is charged by the landowners for non-resident visitors, all visitors must ask permission at the house before hiking on or camping.
