Pohnpei Eco-Adventure Guide

Dream Inside, Step Outside

Tag: hiking

Nankepinmerepw River Valley

Hiking / TrekkingWaterfallBird-WatchingCamping

Hikers in the Nankepinmerepw Valley, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
This route passes through the gorgeous valley of Nankepinmerepw, following the upper tributaries of the Nan Riohk Stream (Pilen Nan Riohk) and eventually arriving north of Nahnalaud on an arm of the major mountain system. One guide stated that the valley’s name refers to the mworopw tree (Inocarpus fagifer), also known as the Polynesian chestnut — though the spelling is clearly different. Nankepin means “in the bottom of”; the mworopw leaf has a deep trough in the middle where the primary vein bisects the blade, mirroring the way the stream bisects the deep, narrow valley.

The hike begins at a rutted turn-off from the well-graded (but unpaved) road to Pahn Sile Waterfall, leads to a metal footbridge over the Senipehn River (Pillapen Senipehn) — the only bridge like it on the island — and connects with a path on the far side. From there, the trail meanders northwest not far from the Nan Riohk and more or less parallel to it.

The first kilometer or so cuts through cultivated lands. Then it begins to follow the water more closely as it passes into the wilder riverine forests. There are at least nine major stream crossings in this next segment, some of which may be difficult or impossible if there has been a lot of recent rain. Above the last major Nan Riohk tributary, where the name of the stream changes to Nankepinmerepw, hikers take to the stream bed itself, which is certainly the most challenging aspect of the route (13% slope average). The algae-slimed rocks are slick and dangerous and hikers may find that they have to go very slow and use both hands to avoid disastrous slips; it would be easy to snap an ankle or shatter a kneecap in this place. Despite the rough terrain, the scenery in the hidden valley, often fenced on both sides by high rocky walls, is terrific. At times, the trail passes along the tops of vertical prismatic basalt columns.

Above Nankepinmerepw Waterfall, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
The first few points of interest are beautiful pools that will tempt any overheated hiker — and why resist? A bit further is a small waterfall near an outcropping of prismatic basalt. Informants in the area say that this location was one of many where prismatic basalt columns were quarried for use in the building of Nan Madol. Abandoned prisms can be found lying in the stream bed in several places — the largest just below the falls. How exactly the massive prisms were hauled down to the coast over such distances and through such rough terrain is anyone’s guess.

After a short, steep section (22% slope average), the valley terminates at a huge “horsetail” waterfall that the route crosses above (you can scramble down the eastern slope without too much difficulty for a better view from the side). The shallow pools above the falls are an excellent place for a look at Pohnpei’s native crayfish. This is the turn-around point for day-hikers.

Past the big waterfall, the stream narrows until it reaches a third waterfall — this one short and wide, falling over a straight lip (usually called a “block falls” or “sheet falls”) — and then diminishes to a trickle. Those who wish to go further, will climb to the west (29% slope average) and then south again to follow the ridgeline (18% slope average) toward Nahnalaud.

Map Guides >> (Central) Madolenihmw >> Nankepinmerepw

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Madolenihmw Bay Area

BikingHiking / TrekkingCave, Tunnel or BunkerWorld War II FortificationsArchaeological Site / RuinBird-WatchingCampingSwimmingSnorkelingSCUBA divingKayaking / CanoeingSurfingPicnickingBeachesMarine Reserve

Dauen Sapwalap / Senipehn Mangrove Reserve

  • Visit the Paddling Around Madolenihmw page for a detailed description of this location and the adventures to be had in the area.
  • Entering the mangrove reserve requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Kamau Pwoungapwoung

Though we didn’t map the hike to this destination as part of the eco-adventure map series (for lack of time), it would, never the less, be an exciting adventure to consider. Kamau Pwoungapwoung refers to a freshwater pool and waterfall at the headwaters of the Dipwilap Stream (Pilen Dipwilap), one of the tributaries of the Senipehn River (Pillapen Senipehn). The place is significant as the location where the last battle between the Saudeleur‘s warriors and Isokelekel’s men was fought. Upon being defeated by Isokelekel, the Saudeleur transformed himself into a small blue fish, that inhabits the pool to this day, and leaped into the waterfall. The hike would be a long one from the area around Pahn Sile. The closest access point would probably be from the direction of Nihpit fern meadow (reached from eastern Kitti).

  • The absolute best choice for a guide is Relio Lengsi. Give him a call at +691.924.2580 and discuss the best route options and access points for this location. Offer $50.00 for a full-day hike.

Nanpahlap Peak

The 137 m (449 ft) hill to the east of Takaiuh looks as if its top has been lopped off — which fits in with the story about its creation (see Takaiuh below). Though steep in places and somewhat overgrown, the ascent isn’t too strenuous. At the summit are the tumbled ruins of a prehistoric stone structure and a breath-taking view. The whole area around the southern foot of the hill is criss-crossed with Japanese trenches and dotted with tunnels, including at least one very long one leading into the hill. The grid of paddies and irrigation canals where the Japanese successfully cultivated rice (despite Pohnpei’s challenging climate conditions) are found on both sides of the unpaved access road, though you can get closest to the bulk of these fields from another road to the west.

Everything is private land, but no official access fees are charged.

  • To hire a guide, ask at the houses in the area or contact Hanke Albert at +691.320.4047. Offer $25.00 for Nanpahlap or a half-day of exploration in the area.

Nanwap Marine Protected Area (MPA)

Nanwap Marine Protected Area is a 3.05 km2 (305 hectare) section of the barrier reef and adjacent lagoon areas on the north side of Kepidauen Deleur (passage). The sanctuary was founded by community members from Metipw and Lukop and their respective chiefs and gained legal status in 2010. It became the first of Pohnpei’s MPAs to have its own formal community-created management plan with the support of the Pohnpei MPA Executive Management Network and the state offices of the Department of Land and Natural Resources, Division of Fish and Wildlife, Office of Fisheries and Aquaculture, and Environmental Protection Agency. Nanwap is a “no-take zone,” which means no fishing or gathering of any kind is allowed within the boundaries. It is regarded as the “most biologically diverse and best preserved spawning and aggregation site” for many of Pohnpei’s core reef fish species. Snorkelers should seek out the protected blue holes on the west side of the reef, while SCUBA divers will want to do a drift dive on the southern wall of the reef during an in-coming tide.

  • Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Pahn Dieinuh

Boys roll tires for a game, Madolenihmw, Pohnpei Island, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Peiai

Peiai is a small populated place near the turn-off for Pahn Sile waterfall. During the battle between the warriors of Isokelekel and the army of the last Saudeleur, Peiai was the place where the tide of battle turned dramatically (hence, the name references a situation where the runner-up in a race pulls ahead of the leader — loosely translated “the battle is reversed”). Isokelekel’s men were being beaten down by the forces of Nan Madol when one of the conqueror’s greatest fighting men pinned his own foot to the ground with his spear, refusing to retreat and declaring that he would kill any man who tried to run away from the fight. Isokelekel’s men rallied behind this show of bravery and pushed back the Saudeleur‘s warriors, chasing them up the Senipehn River and eventually to Kamau Pwoungapwoung, a waterfall at the headwaters of the Dipwilap Stream, where the Saudeleur was finally defeated.

Sapwalap

Sapwalap (“large land”) is an expansive region of mostly flat ground that makes up a sizable chunk of central Madolenihmw. The Japanese recognized Sapwalap‘s potential as a site of large-scale agriculture. During the thirty years leading up to World War II, sugarcane was cultivated and processed at a facility near Kitamw (the tower is still partly visible in the jungle off the road) and rice was grown in a patchwork of paddies fed by irrigation canals. Strangely, no one is growing rice these days, but the paddies are still there opposite the gleaming LDS Church. Other fields are found as far east as Lukop.

Takaiuh peak, Madolenihmw, Pohnpei Island, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Tahio

Tahio, on the south side of Nanpahlap, is another place where the Japanese were active. The access road was built by them and the coastal area is full of trenches, rifle pits, dugouts, and tunnels. Everything is overgrown, but anyone who pokes around will be rewarded with interesting finds. Bring a local resident along.

Takaiuh Peak

You can’t visit Madolenihmw without being arrested by the sight of Takaiuh, a 160 m (525 ft) peak shaped like a traffic cone that stands on the north side of the bay and seems to guard the entrance to the Sapwalap estuary. The mythical origin-story of the hill — which bears a striking resemblance to the Biblical tale of the tower of Babel — involves Mwohnmur and Sarapwau, two wily brothers who enter into many Pohnpeian legends (they also created the Sahwar Valley and the rock of Pohnpaip).

How Takaiuh Came to Be

Long ago, two boys named Mwohnmur and Sarapwau were born in Salapwuk (Kitti) to a woman named Lienlama. The boys were always involved in clever schemes and mischief and traveled far and wide doing great works. Once, the brothers took a piece of stone, and using it like a canoe, paddled to Pohndolen Imwinsapw near what is now Tahio in Madolenihmw. There, Mwohnmur and Sarapwau amused themselves by piling up rocks until they had formed a large hill. A local demi-god named Lapongo saw what they were doing and wasn’t pleased, so he threw a stone at their hill and destroyed it. He then challenged the brothers to a competition to see who could build a mountain the fastest. The three set to work, but it soon became apparent that the boys were winning. Their mountain was so tall it had reached the sky. Being a poor loser, Lapongo became enraged. He picked up a stone and threw it at the new mountain, which broke into six pieces. The base of the mountain that remained standing was named Takaiuh (“standing stone”).

This was not the end of the conflicts between the brothers and Lapongo, however. Lapongo mocked and ridiculed the boys whenever he could, and they did not like it. Now, the brothers liked to play at a place called Pahnlikes, below the spot where they had settled on Likes peak west of modern-day Sapwalap. There was a steep slope there that they would slide down for fun, sitting upon the leaf sheaths of the kotop palm (Clinostigma ponapensis). The boys knew that Lapongo had been watching them and was aware of their play place, so they decided to trick him. Lapongo was invited to slide down the slope with the boys, but they chose a spot where the slope ended at the waterside (possibly the southern tributary of Pilen Kitamw). All three began sliding down the hill. When Mwohnmur and Sarapwau reached the bottom, they leaped off their sheaths and dived to safety, but Lapongo went straight and fell into the water. He sank down into the depths, and the brothers threw rocks on top of him to keep him from resurfacing.

Takaiuh is actually an island separated from the coast by a strip of mangrove forest. It was once inhabited, but is no longer. Though the hill is climbable, the ascent is extremely dangerous, characterized by very steep slopes and cliffs prone to rockslides with little or nothing solid to hold on to. For this reason we strongly advise visitors to enjoy Takaiuh from below rather than trying for the summit. Hikers who insist on seeking the summit, do so at their own risk. Distant views of the peak are found along the Circle Island Road, but the best close-up view from land is from the old Japanese road in Kepine. According to residents living in the area, the Japanese abandoned an attempt to build a trail all the way to the top of the hill. Some of the low wall can still be seen on the lower slope.

Map Guides >> Central Madolenihmw >> Madolenihmw Bay Area

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Dolen Merewi

BikingHiking / TrekkingWorld War II FortificationsBird-WatchingCamping

A gigantic banyan tree on Dolen Merewi, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Dolen Merewi is a flat-topped hill that stands apart from the interior mountains to the west and is highly conspicuous when driving through northeastern Madolenihmw. During the Spanish Period (1886-1898), the hill played a pivotal role in an armed conflict centered around Ohwa. During the fighting, Nahnmwarki Pol, the Protestant leader of Madolenihmw, took refuge on the summit of Dolen Merewi where it was said he prayed in earnest for the Catholics to be defeated. Though the Spanish claimed a victory in the end, they lost a great many men and the better part of their dignity. They never got what they wanted and spent the rest of their administration barricaded inside their dreary colony, Santiago de la Ascencion, at what is now modern-day Kolonia.

An unpaved but well-graded road runs inland right to the base of Dolen Merewi, and almost anyone living in the area can assist visitors in finding a suitable guide on the spot. The ascent takes less than an hour and climbs steeply through upland sakau (Piper methysticum) plantations, karara (Myristica hypargyraea), sadak (Elaeocarpus carolinensis), and other large native hardwoods. At the top of the hill, the forest thins and the trail passes hastily-constructed Japanese foxholes, trenches, and rifle pits. The summit (240 m / 787 ft) is at the north end and has unobstructed views of Kupwuriso to the northwest, Timwen Men to the north, and the glistening bay in the east. Huge flying foxes roost in nearby trees and can be seen soaring low overhead. Birders will find Crimson-Crowned Fruit Doves and Micronesian Ground Doves in plenty. The summit is a nice camp site.

  • See the Birding page for more info about bird-watching on Pohnpei.

No access fee is charged.

  • Plan for 3 hours round-trip with a nice rest at the summit.
  • To hire a guide, ask at the houses in the area or contact Hanke Albert at +691.320.4047. Offer $12.00-15.00.

Map Guides >> Central Madolenihmw >> Dolen Merewi

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Pahnsapw & Nankep Waterfalls

BikingHiking / TrekkingWaterfallSwimmingPicnicking

Lower Pahnsapw Falls, Pohnauleng, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Pahnsapw, which means “beneath the land,” refers to a pair of tall, majestic waterfalls which plummet off the edge of a high plateau in central Madolenihmw (it’s also the name of the farmstead). Both waterfalls are found on the land of the Silbanuz family (relatives of the people at the Nan Madol trailhead) — the smaller falls is lower down and hidden from view until you get up-stream, but the upper falls can be seen from the Circle Island Road.

The hike starts at the end of an unpaved road and criss-crosses the stream or runs along the bank up to the first falls, which is about 4 to 6 meters (13-20 ft) high and has a beautiful shallow pool at the base, excellent for a quick, cool swim. Unless you’re in good physical condition and don’t mind getting dirty, this is where you should stop.

Upper Pahnsapw Falls, Pohnauleng, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

To reach the second falls, the route climbs straight up an extremely steep (and sometimes muddy) slope to the right of the lower waterfall with little to hold on to, turns horizontally across the slope face, and then returns to the river, where there’s a secluded pool in a shady nook. It might be a good idea to bring a length of rope and have the guide secure it to something at the top of the slope prior to scrambling up. Five minutes up-stream is the second waterfall, which is about 18 meters (60 ft) tall and falls into a large, deep pool. The water at both waterfalls is cool and very clean.

The Silbanuz family charges an access fee of $2.00 per person. Any of the teenagers around the house can be hired as guides. Offer $12.00.

  • Plan for 2 hours round-trip with some leisure time at both of the waterfall pools.

Nankep Waterfall

The next waterfall going south is known as Nankep. People living in the area say the name means “inlet” or “in the cup” (depending on who you talk to). The latter seems logical, except that the Pohnpeian word kep is a loaner from English and wouldn’t date back beyond the early 1800s. The site may have had a different name prior to that time or it has picked up new meaning over the years. The road to this trailhead is steeper and more rutted than the one to Pahnsapw, so it’s best to park at the bottom near the Circle Island Road and walk to the end, where the trail begins on Waltis Herdinand’s land — an area referred to as Elilpei. The hike is short and relatively easy, concluding in a hidden nook with a small plunge pool. The best time to visit Nankep is after a period of heavy rain as it can be nothing more than a tiny ribbon of water at other times. Some people believe that the falls will be dry if all the members of the visiting group are male, so mix it up.

No official access fee is charged.

  • Plan for 90 minutes round-trip with time to swim at the falls.
  • To hire a guide, ask at the houses in the area, contact Hanke Albert at +691.320.4047, or call the owner of the land around the falls, Waltis Herdinand, at +691.320.2909. Offer $12.00.

Map Guides >> Central Madolenihmw >> Pahnsapw & Nankep Waterfalls

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Pohnpaip Petroglyphs

BikingHiking / TrekkingArchaeological Site / RuinBird-Watching

Anthropomorphic figure at Pohnpaip, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Just south of the newly renovated Sapwalap Elementary School lies one of Micronesia’s most unusual sites. More than 700 prehistoric motifs are inscribed on rocks in the area, the largest collection adorning a 60 by 25 meter naturally terraced basalt outcropping called Pohnpaip (“on the boulder”). Though the pictures are fading in the face of Pohnpei’s relentless rains, it’s still possible to discern human figures, feet, hands, fish hooks, a boat, the sun and moon, and many shapes that may be canoe paddles or loom pegs (often mistaken for daggers).

Different stories are told about the origin of this rock. In one, the outcropping was created when two mischievous brothers named Mwohnmur and Sarapwau — the same boys who created Takaiuh in the Kepine area and the Sahwar Gorge in Salapwuk — stole a blanket from Kitti decorated with strange symbols (some informants attribute this action to Olsihpa and Olsohpa instead of Mwohnmur and Sarapwau). The blanket was transformed into the rock with the symbols still intact. In another tale, Pohnpaip was the house of two men, Mahntik and Mahnlap, who passed into the rock through a magical door and traveled to a far land. Knocking with small stones at the location where the door to the house is purported to be produces a hollow sound as if there were, indeed, a cavity beneath the rock’s surface.

Enveloped cross on a boulder near Pohnpaip, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

More petroglyphs are found on a collection of smaller boulders located in the grassy plain to the northeast. The large rock closest to Pohnpaip is called Takain Pahsu (“vagina rock”) and is said to be the genitalia of a mythical woman who broke into pieces. The woman’s buttocks are found on the other side of the road along with several other boulders with petroglyphic images. One is covered with enveloped equilateral crosses similar to those found in Vanuatu, New Caledonia, and the Solomon Islands, possibly indicating a link between the site and the Lapita culture active in the region about 2,000 years ago. To date, no one is sure who created the petroglyphs or when they were created. Rock art of this sort is uncommon in the Micronesian islands.

The road leading to the site was in very bad condition as of 2014. It’s best to park near the Circle Island Road and walk up. The Herson family, which owns the land around Pohnpaip, charges an access fee of $3.00 per person. You don’t need a guide, but more than likely someone at the house will show you up to the rock and other sites at no extra charge.

  • This excursion takes about 2 hours round-trip if you take your time and really examine all the images.
NOTE: There is an error on the printed Madolenihmw Eco-Adventure Guide maps for this location. “Vagina Rock” is labeled Takain Pahso (incorrect) instead of Takain Pahsu. We apologize for this mistake. Future versions of the print guide will reflect the correction.

Map Guides >> Central Madolenihmw >> Pohnpaip Petroglyphs

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Dolen Nahnsapwe

Hiking / TrekkingBird-WatchingCamping

Dolen Nahnsapwe, “hill of thunder,” is a small peak near the Nett–U border. As the crow flies, it’s about 1.3 km (0.8 mi) southwest of the Kupwuriso summit. Though rarely visited and not the highest point in the area, Dolen Nahnsapwe is intriguing because it’s associated with stories about the traditional thunder god, Nahnsapwe, and is said to be the place where thunder storms originate. It’s also the source of the Pwong-Kapwungapwung watercourse, a stream that forms a waterfall below the Lou Rahn ridge in Nett. It’s a challenging climb that follows a trail only part of the way, but the pay-offs come in the form of soaring vistas and gorgeous upland forests. You can approach the peak from either Nett or U or do a full traverse (6.75 km / 4.2 mi) from one side to the other.

Nett Approach

The Nett approach to Dolen Nahnsapwe feels wilder and is steeper and more strenuous. It begins on the side of an unpaved road in Paremkep. The first 0.6 km (0.37 mi) follows the same track that goes to Lou Rahn waterfall and cave with a gentle slope average of about 12%. After that, it branches off and climbs more steeply along the Lou Rahn ridgeline for 2.65 km (1.65 mi) with a slope average ranging between 20% and 25%. This brings hikers to the foot of the peak — a swampy area dominated by thickets of kotop (Clinostigma ponapensis) palms.

U Approach

The way up from U begins behind a cluster of houses at the end of the last road before the Madolenihmw border. On this side, things are much more developed and the trail is clear and well-maintained nearly to the top of the pass north of the peak. One conservation worker told us that sakau farmers from U frequently use this route to access illegal plots in the watershed on the Nett side. The 3.2 km (2 mi) trail meanders through inhabited areas and past a number of a small huts and residences (23% slope avg).

The last bit up to the tiny summit (593 m) is an over-grown, steep (46% slope avg), grubby, and sometimes unnerving scramble from the northwest side. The summit is tiny, and the ground up there has a springy, unstable feel as if you’re actually standing on layers upon layers of ferns and moss rather than solid ground — which may be the case. The effort and unease, however, are rewarded with a truly marvelous 300-degree view. Sokehs Mountain (276 m), Kolonia Town, the open summit of Kupwuriso (630 m), and Dolen Saldenre (629 m) are all visible — weather permitting.

You can do this climb as a day-hike, but a better option is to camp somewhere along the upper Pwong Stream (Pilen Pwong). Remember to pack out everything you packed in. A responsible camp site is one that is invisible once its occupants depart.

  • Plan for 8 hours for this hike.
  • Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Dolen Nahnsapwe. Offer $50.00 for a group of five or less.

Map Guides >> Nett & Western U >> Dolen Nahnsapwe

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Timwen Men, Dolakapw & Pohn Tehnmei

North Madolenihmw Hikes

Hiking / TrekkingCave, Tunnel or BunkerWorld War II FortificationsArchaeological Site / RuinBird-Watching

The northernmost section of Madolenihmw is separated from the rest of the municipality by a range of low mountains that run east-west from Mesihsou to Alohkapw. This range was fortified by the Japanese army during World War II because it was easily accessible and commanded excellent views of lands both to the north and the south. The hills are riddled with tunnels and man-made caves, and a ridge path runs from the east end and connects with the primary mountain system in the central part of the island. There was a time when Japanese soldiers could travel from Mesihsou all the way to Kupwuriso without ever leaving the mountains. Small 75-80 mm guns were also installed at hidden spots among the hills.

There are many potential hikes one could do in these interesting mountains, but we’ve chosen to focus on three routes leading to small peaks along the ridge: Timwen Men, Dolakapw, and Pohn Tehnmei. All three cross private land.

Timwen Men

The name of this small peak at the western end of the ridge means “beak of the bird,” a reference to the many brown noddies that can be seen flying around the summit. The hike begins at the houses near the end of the road, belonging to the extended family of Eiber Rosario, and passes through the family’s sakau plantation on the slope. Any semblance of a trail vanishes at the foot of the hill, where you have to clamber up the steep, muddy hillside. At the top, there’s an extensive network of Japanese defensive trenches. The Japanese ridge path goes east as far as Mesihsou and west to Kupwuriso, but the problem with hiking the entire distance in one go is that the mountain range is broken up into a number of private parcels owned by different (and sometimes competing) families. The trail is easy to follow as it goes west toward the Timwen Men summit (331 m / 1,086 ft). Along the way, you’ll pass several impressive tunnels that bore into the hill and connect with the trench system. Two circular pits seem to have been either small caliber gun stations (possibly 80 mm) or rifle positions. No guns are found there now. The summit is a little overgrown, but still affords nice views of the valley.

  • The hike takes about 3 hours round-trip.
  • To arrange for a guide, ask for the colorful Eiber Rosario at the houses near the end of the road. You may also be able to locate Eiber by calling his son-in-law, Colton, at +691.923.6941. Offer $20.

Dolakapw (Edienleng)

A Japanese tunnel on Dolakapw, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

This hike starts at the main road opposite a small store, passes through a group of houses, and follows a well-traveled footpath, climbing steadily but never steeply to Dolakapw (“new hill”), a peak in Edienleng. The trail ends at a plantation of sakau and other agroforestry crops. From there the route curves around the south side of the hill (with views of the Sapwalap plain), where two large Japanese tunnels burrow into the slope. The lower one is partially collapsed, the steel rails for a mining car still jutting out of the hole. The roof here is unstable, so it would be unwise to venture inside. The tunnel is about 15 meters long. The second tunnel, a little higher up the hill, is in better shape with U-shaped steel supports holding up the rocky roof. Bats and Caroline Islands swiftlets nest at the rear. The landowner believes that the Japanese intended to connect the two tunnels, but abandoned the project once the Allied bombing campaign began. The semi-open Dolakapw summit (305 m / 1,001 ft) is just above.

  • The hike takes about 3 hours round-trip.
  • To find a guide, visit the small store on the coastal side of the road and ask for Isaac Fred. Offer $20.

Pohn Tehnmei

This short, strenuous hike begins at the home of brothers Atsent and Romeo Welcher at the end of an intermittently paved road west of Nan Pailong. There isn’t much of a trail; the route just goes straight up the slope behind the house along an eroded track used to drag huge sakau pounding stones, called peitehl, down from the mountaintop. The first thing encountered at the top is the quarry site itself — a collection of pits from which the stones have been dug. There was a time when people came from all over the island to get peitehl at this spot. Currently, the state forbids the practice, but you may get the distinct impression that it’s still going on nonetheless. Not far from the top of the hill, a gigantic peitehl marks the spot where the brothers Olsihpa and Olsohpa looked down and first laid eyes on Sounahleng, the place where they would eventually begin the building of Nan Madol (there’s no view from here now, unfortunately). Also, a trio of large stones slightly to the west are said to have been formed from the bodies of a man, his wife, and their child. From there you can continue west along the ridge to the Pohn Tehnmei summit (347 m / 1,138 ft). The tree cover on the ridge, however, obscures any good views of the lowlands.

  • Plan for about 2 to 3 hours round-trip for this adventure.

Japanese Tunnel

At the base of the hill on the Welcher farmstead is a 14 meter-long curving Japanese tunnel. Mining car rails lie along the floor, and though the mouth of the cave is partially collapsed, the rest is supported by U-shaped steel supports. You can enter carefully and walk to the end (bring a headlamp or flashlight and expect some bats).

  • Either Atsent or Romeo Welcher (+691.925.8075) can be hired as guides, though Romeo’s English is better. If you can’t get them by phone, just go to the house and ask one of them to take you up. Offer $20.

Map Guides >> U & Northern Madolenihmw >> North Madolenihmw Hikes

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Pahntakai Cave & Waterfall

Hiking / TrekkingCaveWaterfallBird-WatchingCampingPicnicking

Pahntakai Waterfall, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Pahntakai literally means “under the rock” and one visit makes it immediately apparent why this geologically-unique location was given its name. A thin waterfall plummets over a concave cliff-wall more than 30 meters high, which shelters a wide strip of mostly flat ground. You can walk all the way across beneath the cliff to where the ledge widens even more and a small, rocky hill rises up north of the waterfall. Yawning caverns behind the falls host colonies of small insect-eating bats and Caroline Islands Swiftlets that hurry out at dusk to hunt for insects. If you want a closer look, you can climb up through the mounds of guano to the cave openings.

The waterfall itself varies greatly in volume, depending on rain, crashing onto jumbles of rocks below the ledge. It is possible to climb down the slope and stand under the water, but the rocks are slippery and dangerous and there is no pool.

The trail is found at the end of the road and is well-maintained and fairly level most of the way to the cave, skirted by several varieties of sakau (kava) and affording stunning views of the deep gorge below the falls, small huts on the steep hillsides, and the blue sea far out beyond the green of the island. Though you do not need a guide or any special permission to do this hike, the site is private property and the family at the last house on the road charges an entry fee of $3.00 per visitor. Make sure you bear left at the trailhead, rather than taking the path to the right which goes steeply downhill and eventually leads to a house. The hike takes a leisurely 40 minutes round-trip, but Pahntakai is so magical you’ll probably want to hang around and soak up the atmosphere.

Camping

The landowner, Pedro Marvis, permits visitors to camp overnight at Pahntakai, provided they are quiet and respectful of the place and take all their garbage with them afterward. The price per person is the same as when making a day visit — $3.00. The best place to camp is at the northwest end of the trail, where the strip of ground under the cliff is wide and flat. There’s a rock fire-pit there and sometimes some dry firewood left lying around. Because of the overhanging nature of the cliff, things stay dry even during heavy rain. There is one small stream that crosses the main trail about half-way from the trailhead — a good place to filter drinking water if you’re going to stay at Pahntakai a while.

Map Guides >> U & Northern Madolenihmw >> Pahntakai Cave & Waterfall

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Kupwuriso

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Hikers at the summit of Kupwuriso, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
Kupwuriso, Pohnpei’s fifth highest mountain (depending on how you count them), is impossible to miss when driving through eastern U, where it towers over everything, its precipitous slopes clad in groves of endemic palms called kotop (Clinostigma ponapensis). When the Pohnpeian hero Isokelekel sailed around the island in the mid-1600s on a mission to overthrow the Saudeleur dynasty, he initially balked at the sight of the mountain palms which he mistook for an army of giant warriors dressed in grass skirts. It was not until he returned to And Atoll, that a local woman pointed out his mistake. Giants or no, the mountain has an ominous look and feel. It’s unusually close to the coast and rises up very steeply, making it appear much taller than it really is (630 m / 2,067 ft). The name means “stomach.”

Awak Valley Approach

There are two major routes to the small, rocky summit (630 m). The first begins not far from the end of the primary paved road at the rear of the Awak Valley. To protect Mwahnd and Alohkapw (Areu) Passages from invasion, the Japanese decided to place two 15 cm naval canons just below the summit of Kupwuriso at a place called Dol Reirei (“long hill”). To get the massive weapons up the mountain, they constructed a road that climbs up on the south side of the Awak Valley and follows the ridge north. The hike uses this track for most of the way, starting on a rocky private footpath to the right of the road. The steepest section comes at the beginning. Once on the ridge, things mostly flatten out, though there are some gentle ups and downs. The terrain is fairly tame the rest of the way, passing through upland groves of kotop palm, wild banana plants (utin wel), and gnarled stands of campnosperma (dohng) and elaeocarpus (sadak) — trees used to make canoe hulls.

One of the benefits of climbing Kupwuriso is that you’re more likely to get a clear view from the summit than from Nahnalaud. The perspective is better, too; Nahnalaud’s summit sits on a wide plateau, while Kupwuriso’s looks down to the valley from the top of a cliff. Sometimes, however, the mountain is fog-bound — especially from about noon to 2 PM. Plan for 4-6 hours round-trip.
An inland view from Kupwuriso, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Rohi Approach

The second route starts in Rohi district at the end of a paved road. This way is shorter but considerably more strenuous, shooting 1.3 km (0.82 mi) straight up the side of the mountain. It should be noted that a number of hikers have sustained injuries on this approach, so hire a good guide, go slow, and watch for loose rocks! The route begins in the inhabited lowland agroforest, which Pohnpeians call nansapw, and quickly ascends to the mid-level forests (nanwel), populated by giant hardwoods and tree-ferns. Beyond, the forest opens up and kotop palms abound. Once the slope starts to even out, you’ve entered the cloud forest — a fantasy world of stunted, twisting trees and air plants. It’s always wet here, and every surface is covered with a thick layer of bryophytic growth. Plan for 4-6 hours round-trip.

Foggy forests surround a 15 cm naval gun on Kupwuriso, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Japanese Gun Battery

The two guns are the British Armstrong Whitworth naval type identical to the one on Sokehs Mountain. Both are housed in steel and concrete bunkers and separated by a pillbox, where machine guns were placed. The battery was installed in 1943 and took fifty-five local men eight months to complete. At 580 meters (1,903 ft), these are the highest guns on Pohnpei Island. The gnarled forest that has grown up in front of the gun sites is mesmerizing, especially in foggy conditions.

Bird-Watching

Birders will find much to look at on the way up the mountain. Besides the typical honey-eaters, starlings, and lorikeets, this is a good place to look for the Crimson-Crowned Fruit Dove, Imperial Pigeon, and Pohnpei Cicadabird. Swiftlets are common at the summit.

  • Please visit the Birding page for additional information.

Ridge Camping

There’s a fantastic place to camp at 593 meters not far from the gun sites with a beautiful, unobstructed view of the valley. Bring your own water, dry tender, a tarp or heavy-duty rainfly, and stakes for your tent and tarp (high winds are a distinct possibility at such elevations). Remember to leave your site exactly as you found it. Pack out everything you packed in and properly bury all human waste.

Hiring a Local Guide

A lot of people know the way up Kupwuriso, so finding a guide is not difficult. If you want to tackle the Rohi approach, Miller Benjamin (from Saladak) is a good choice. From Awak, we recommend Relio Lengsi. Conservation Society of Pohnpei (CSP) can also assist you in finding a guide. Offer $40-50 for a group of five hikers or less (plus tips). Agree on a price beforehand.

Map Guides >> U & Northern Madolenihmw >> Kupwuriso

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in birding, camping, hiking & trekking, u & northern madolenihmwTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Nan Koropwung Cliff & Caverns

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Prismatic basalt wall at Nan Koropwung, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Anyone who takes a good look at the mountains on the eastern border of Nett will note a dark patch of naked basalt amid the otherwise unvarying green of the steep hillsides. This is the cliff-wall and caverns of Nan Koropwung. The trail to this spectacular and little-known site begins at the end of the unpaved but well-graded road in Paremkep and meanders up the heavily-wooded slope with some rather steep and brushy sections. Eventually, one comes to a towering wall of prismatic basalt columns overrun by a waterfall, which can be dramatic after heavy rain, but is most often thin and misty. Below the falls, the bare rock is in the process of decomposition, smooth and crumbly.

The first 164 m / 180 yd (12% slope avg) from the trailhead brings hikers to a small sakau hut in the woods. The narrow stream crosses the path 57 m (62 yd) further (16% slope avg). After that, the path fades into obscurity and it’s a challenging 489 m (0.3 mi) bush-whack scramble to the cliff and waterfall (47% slope avg). That’s not the end, however, by a long shot. If you pick your way across the rocks under the falls and along the slope for about 80 m (87 yd), you’ll come to the first cave of three. Partially hidden by a curtain of vines, this cave is well-protected from the elements and makes a good campsite. There are great views of Nett and Kolonia and some flat, dry ground.

About 130 m (142 yd) further is a second cave — this one forming a low, tunnel-like passage parallel to the hillside. Swiftlets nest on the roof and their guano covers the floor. Scramble through and you find yourself in the final cave, which is like a bay window looking out over the serene landscapes of Nett and eastern Sokehs. There’s really nothing like this spot on the island. Take care, however — the cavern opens onto a sheer (certainly fatal) drop to the valley below.

  • Plan for 3-6 hours for this hike.
  • Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nan Koropwung. Offer $25-37.00 for a group of five or less.

Map Guides >> Nett & Western U >> Nan Koropwung Cliff & Caverns

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in birding, camping, caves, greater nett, hiking & trekking, waterfallsTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
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