Pohnpei Eco-Adventure Guide

Dream Inside, Step Outside

Tag: kayaking

Paddling Lenger & Sapwtik

SwimmingSnorkelingKayaking / CanoeingMarine Reserve

As the closest lagoon islands to Kolonia and with the highest concentration of WWII historical sites anywhere around Pohnpei, Lenger and nearby Sapwtik make fantastic destinations for paddling enthusiasts. In addition to the attractions on each of the two islands, there are mangrove forests and some interesting reef environments to explore.

Around Lenger

Pahnaiau Getaway (Barbosa’s Wharf) to the Seaplane Ramp

This portion of the route is characterized by Lenger’s shallow fringe reef, a sandy, silty expanse dominated by small-scale coral growth, brilliant blue starfish, cowries, sea cucumbers of various types, and scattered beds of seagrass, which Pohnpeian’s call oaloahd. Keep an eye out for the main attraction: stingrays. They generally rest on the bottom in the sand and will shoot off when you approach. Not far beyond the wharf is the Jaluit Cistern, one of the oldest historical sites in Pohnpei State. The cistern was probably constructed in the late 1880s by German traders operating on the coast. A stone wharf originally connected it with the coast, but a few scattered stones are all that are left. Bullet holes in the masonry were caused by Allied strafing during WWII.

If you decide to make a wider arc around the island, you’ll pass over areas where the reef shelf ends and the deep part of the lagoon begins. Small sea turtles are seen on rare occasions near the reef wall. The majority of the reef fish will also be found at this natural boundary. Note, however, that the reef stretches all the way to Sapwtik in the northwest and there is no way around Lenger’s northern end without crossing it. The depth over the shelf varies from a few centimeters to a meter, depending on the time of day and the precise location. Because fragile corals and other organisms are harmed by feet or dragging keels, the northern passage should be attempted at high tide only.

The Seaplane Ramp to the Mangrove Passage

The reef on the eastern side of the island tends to be deeper than in the northwest and has denser beds of seagrass. Larger fish are found in this area, and sometimes juvenile black-tip reef sharks can be seen swishing their way around.

The Mangrove Passage to Barbosa’s Wharf

The tunnel-like mangrove passage winds about a third of a kilometer through a dense section of forest that mostly comprises members of the Rhizophora genus, identified by the arching prop roots that extend out of the water toward the tree trunks. It’s a nice, scenic paddle and a good place to spot shorebirds like the Pacific Reef Heron and Micronesian Kingfisher. Once out of the forest, you can follow the coastline past the ruins of the Japanese-era Kohatsu Wharf and back to Barbosa’s Wharf.

Around Sapwtik

A relatively well-preserved Japanese wharf extends southwest from Sapwtik’s coast all the way to the edge of the reef. This is a wonderful place for a picnic and swim or snorkel. There’s one large tree on the wharf, offering shade. To the west is a maze of mangrove clumps that are fun to paddle through (though they are not as extensive as Lenger’s) before reaching the western terminus of the island. North of the point is an exposed rocky place that’s a perfect pull-out spot for a snack. A little beyond that is the site of the coastal battery and nearby munitions magazine. Conditions north of Sapwtik’s coastline are very similar to Lenger’s northern sector — shallow and characterized by seagrass beds and silt. You shouldn’t try to kayak here except at mid to high tides. All along the coast, you’ll find evidence of Japanese occupation, low walls, foxholes, rifle pits, etc.

Starting   Ending Distance (km) Distance (mi)
St. Peter’s Church, Sokehs —- Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger 7.93 km 4.93 mi
Misko Beach, Dekehtik Island —- Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger 4.52 km 2.8 mi
Ice Dock, Kolonia Town —- Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger 3.53 km 2.2 mi
Nett Point, Nett —- Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger 1.97 km 1.22 mi
St. Peter’s Church, Sokehs —- Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik 7.75 km 4.81 mi
Misko Beach, Dekehtik Island —- Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik 4.34 km 2.7 mi
Ice Dock, Kolonia Town —- Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik 4.23 km 2.63 mi
Nett Point, Nett —- Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik 2.95 km 1.83 mi
Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger —- Japanese Seaplane Ramp, Lenger* 1.52 km 0.95 mi
Japanese Seaplane Ramp, Lenger —- Mangrove Passage Northern Entrance, Lenger 0.58 km 0.36 mi
Mangrove Passage Northern Entrance, Lenger —- Kohatsu Wharf, Lenger 0.42 km 0.26 mi
Kohatsu Wharf, Lenger —- Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger 0.51 km 0.32 mi
Pahnaiau Getaway, Lenger —- Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik 1.29 km 0.8 mi
Japanese Wharf, Sapwtik —- Gun Battery, Sapwtik 0.74 km 0.46 mi

*Shallow reef shelf. This segment is only passable at middle to high tides.

Map Guides >> Lenger & Sapwtik Islands >> Paddling Around Lenger & Sapwtik

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in birding, hiking & trekking, historical sites, islands, lenger & sapwtik islands, paddling, snorkeling, swimming & picnicking, world war sitesTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Footwear

Gear Advice: Footwear for Pohnpei

Zories / Flip-Flops

Flip-flops
PROS: They’re ultra-easy to take on and off. Your feet are completely exposed to the air and dry quickly.

CONS: When wet or muddy, your feet slide around from side to side and from front to back. Straps are often too weak to handle rough treatment and frequently break. Zories get sucked right off your feet in swift-moving water, mucky sand, or oozy mud. They have absolutely no traction capabilities. Your feet are completely unprotected.

THE VERDICT: Flip-flops are great when cruising around town or hanging on the boat or beach, and that’s about it.

Tennis Shoes

Tennis Shoes
PROS: They’re light. They breathe better and tend to have more flexible soles than heavier footwear, allowing your feet marginally better traction. The toes, tops, and sides of your feet are better protected from scrapes and bangs than with sandals or FiveFingers.

CONS: Tennis shoes have no ankle support. They inevitably get soaked in Pohnpei’s wet environment, and once wet, your feet stay wet. Furthermore, the shoes aren’t going to dry out between hikes in the humidity — even on sunny days. Though soles are thinner and more flexible than hiking boots or Teva-style sport sandals, the type of sole material and tread varies from shoe to shoe. By and large, tennis shoes don’t have tread that performs well on wet rocks or muddy slopes — the most common type of terrain Pohnpei hikers encounter. Shoes are easily pulled right off your feet in deep mud.

THE VERDICT: Tennis shoes are fine for short, easy hikes on roads or well-established gravely trails.

Cloth Hiking Boots

Cloth Boots
PROS: They’re only slightly heavier than tennis shoes. Soles and tread tend to be better designed for hiking in rough terrain than tennis shoes or sandals. They provide good ankle support. Your feet and ankles are protected from scrapes and bangs.

CONS: Breath-ability is poor. Your feet get wet and stay wet. The thickness of the soles makes it harder for them to adhere to wet, curved surfaces, such as river rocks. The deeper tread is mostly ineffective in muddy conditions as the grooves simply fill with mud. Just like tennis shoes, in deep mud, they can be pulled right off your feet.

THE VERDICT: Cloth hiking boots aren’t particularly useful on an ultra-wet tropical island. It’s best to leave them at home.

Hard-Shell Hiking Boots

Hard-shell Boots
PROS: They provide maximum ankle support and foot and ankle protection.

CONS: They’re unnecessarily heavy and wear you out faster than lighter shoes. The soles are thick and inflexible — highly undesirable when crossing slick rocks in rivers or scrambling up muddy mountainsides. They aren’t breathable at all; even if they’re fully waterproofed, your feet will end up soaked by sweat anyway. They’re absolutely impossible to deal with in deep, oozy mud.

THE VERDICT: Hard-shell boots are a very poor choice for this environment.

Teva-Style Sport Sandals

Sport Sandals
PROS: The open-air style allows your feet the greatest opportunity to dry out. There are less places for sand and grit to get stuck.

CONS: Your toes, heels, and the sides of your feet are completely unprotected and can be battered by rocks and roots. When wet, feet tend to slide around on the sole. Blisters around the straps are problematic on anything but short hikes. The Velcro fasteners get caught on vines and other things and pulled open. The thick, inflexible soles are nearly as bad as hard-shell boots when it comes to traction. For footwear designed with rivers in mind, they’re remarkably poor at adhering to wet rocks slimed with algae. They tend to become mired in deep mud like what you find in mangrove swamps.

THE VERDICT: Sport sandals work well when paddling, walking around town, or doing short, relatively-flat hikes on roads or well-established trails.

FiveFingers

FiveFingers
PROS: The revolutionary design concept centers around research that has shown that balance and traction are significantly improved by having the use of your toes and letting your feet flex and mold themselves to whatever surface they move across. Thin, soft soles allow maximum flexibility and adhere well to wet rocks and other surfaces. “Free” toes can dig into mud for better traction, and because they fit like a second skin, they won’t come off your feet. They’re ultra-light. Thin material or mesh allow your feet plenty of access to air.

CONS: There’s no ankle support and minimal protection from the environment; toes, feet, and ankles can take a brutal beating from rocks and roots. You can’t just jump right into things; you have to break in FiveFingers, take some time to allow your feet to get used to full contact with the terrain, and learn to walk with greater care and precision. They are designed to fit like a glove, and consequently, are very difficult to put on. In sandy conditions, grit gets inside the heels and rubs the skin raw.

OUR RECOMMENDATION: Despite a few disadvantages, FiveFingers out-performed every other type of footwear we tried in a wide range of settings. In our opinion, they are the best choice or hiking and trekking on Pohnpei. FiveFingers are produced by Vibram, which offers an extensive range of models that range from $50 to $150.

Adventures >> Gear Recommendations >> Footwear

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Dry-Bags & Packs

Dry-Bags

For ages backpackers and other outdoor adventurers have struggled to keep the contents of their backpacks dry when out in the elements. In some environments, where rain is a rarity, simply having a waterproof nylon bag-cover was enough. But in places where wet was the norm, bag-covers just didn’t cut it. For one thing, no bag-cover could ever seamlessly envelope the entire backpack; the area where the straps are was always uncovered, allowing rain to drip down the hiker’s back and eventually soak into the bag. Furthermore, the nylon covers were thin and relatively fragile. When pushing through trees or brush, they’d snag and tear. Some people resorted to lining the inside of their backpacks with garbage bags, which kept their stuff dry, but allowed the exterior of the bag to be soaked.

Eventually someone — probably a paddler — decided that what they needed was an air-tight / water-tight bag so secure it would even float if dropped into water. Enter the roll-top dry-bag.

Basic PVC Roll-Top Dry-Bags

Basic Roll-top Dry-bag

Roll-top dry-bags work in the following way. There’s one opening at the top. Users fold the excess material at the opening over itself repeatedly and then use a set of plastic buckles to tightly secure it, trapping a small amount of air within the bag. Once clipped, the bag is fully-waterproofed and — presuming it has enough air trapped inside and isn’t too heavy — will float. The most common bags are made of PVC and consist of seamless cylinder with a bottom welded on, and in some models, also taped or glued.

PROS: Unless there’s some sort of manufacturing defect, these bags really do keep their contents dry, even when completely submerged, and that’s really the whole point. The heavy, durable PVC is rip and tear-proof and stands up to rough treatment just fine (I have one that I’ve been using for 19 years). The bags are excellent for use in boats, kayaks, canoes, etc. See-through styles are available, which allow you to figure out where something you need is before you dig around in the bag.

CONS: It is possible to puncture PVC bags with sharp objects. They’re heavy when compared to nylon and other typical bag materials. Because the PVC is quite thick, they don’t compress well when empty and take up a lot of space. The roll-top style makes them pretty inconvenient if you’re going to be removing and re-stowing things in your bag regularly (such as a camera). Kayakers will be forced to stop paddling completely and use both hands to open and close the bag properly — which may be impossible if there’s rough water or strong current. The bag interiors have no built-in padding, so something like a camera or lens has to be wrapped or otherwise cushioned in some way. Bags have no interior divisions or pockets, so finding one object is difficult without dumping everything out.

THE VERDICT: PVC dry-bags suffer from the same inconveniences as all roll-top bags, but they still perform very well when it comes to doing what they are designed to do — keeping your stuff dry. Good brands include Overboard, Seattle Sports, Cascade Designs SealLine, and Sea to Summit.

Basic Nylon Roll-Top Dry-Bags

Nylon Dry-Bag
Non-permeable nylon bags with the same design as the PVC bags are also available.

PROS: They’re super light and compress to almost nothing when empty.

CONS: The thin nylon is not very durable; it can snag and rip or tear and is far more prone to punctures than PVC. Seams are generally taped and glued, which theoretically should make them leak-proof, but sometimes they fail anyway. The nylon provides even less protection than the PVC for the contents of your bag. They have all the same inconveniences as any other roll-top bag: they take care to close up properly and have no inside divisions or pockets.

THE VERDICT: Nylon dry-bags really work best packed inside a conventional backpack or mesh dive bag. Using multiple nylon bags inside a backpack is one way to keep your stuff organized and dry at the same time. They’re too fragile to perform well on their own, however. Good brands include Overboard, Seattle Sports, Cascade Designs SealLine, and Sea to Summit.

OUR RECOMMENDATION: Despite their many inconveniences, roll-top PVC dry-bags continue to be the most reliable and durable option for adventures on the water.

Roll-Top Dry-Packs

The dry-backpack developed from the simpler dry-bag concept — a heavy PVC sack with a single roll-top opening. The pack style incorporates back padding, padded shoulder straps, chest and waist straps, and (depending on the model) an outer pocket or mesh. There aren’t many brands that make dry-packs and two stand out — Overboard and Seattle Sports.

Seattle Sports Aquaknot Dry-Pack

Seattle Sports Aquaknot Dry-Pack

PROS: The Aquaknot performed well on both trekking and paddling excursions on Pohnpei. It never leaked. Though not as heavily padded as the Overboard bags, the pack is comfortable enough on the body. The model comes in two capacities — 22 and 29 liters. It has one mesh side-pocket on the outside for a small bottle or other object. There are two clipping options. The chest strap and waist belt help distribute weight across the body.

CONS: The bungee area is useless; it would have been better with a rear pocket instead. There are no interior pockets or other divisions. Access is only through the roll-top.

THE VERDICT: This is a good, solid, dependable bag. Though slightly smaller than the Overboard models, it measures up.

Overboard Dry Backpack

Overboard Waterproof Backpack

PROS: When tested on Pohnpei, the bag stood up to abuse and never leaked. The padded shoulder straps, back, and lumbar support make this bag pretty comfortable to wear, even when it’s heavy. The chest and waist straps help keep the weight positioned properly on your body. With three different capacities going up to 30 liters, there should be plenty of room for gear. The single interior pocket is great for small stuff you need to find quickly like a flashlight, keys, or box of matches. There are two options for clipping the top closed and a nice top handle for picking up the bag. There’s an elasticized mesh pocket on the side, which can handle small bottles or other objects.

CONS: There are no interior divisions and no interior padding to protect gear. Contents can only be accessed through the roll-top. The bag is heavier than a conventional backpack. The bungees on the back are mostly useless; they stretch out over time and get snagged on stuff. The Velcro strap on the top doesn’t really do anything except get snagged on low branches and brush.

THE VERDICT: Though it lacks a few useful features, this pack performs well and has a good design.

Overboard ProSport Dry Backpack

Overboard ProSport Waterproof Backpack

PROS: Like the other packs we’ve reviewed, this model has good padding on the shoulder straps and back, a comparable chest strap and waist belt, and a top carry handle. It also has a zippered interior pocket. The capacity is 30 liters — plenty big enough for all the gear you need on a short trek. It never leaked when we tested it in a wide range of conditions on Pohnpei. One thing it has that the other bags don’t have is a useful zippered mesh pocket on the back. And for some reason, it’s slightly cheaper than the other Overboard bag above.

CONS: Other than the one pocket, there are no interior divisions. The bag has no padding. It’s heavier than a conventional backpack. The contents can be accessed only through the roll-top. The bungees aren’t really useful for anything.

THE VERDICT: This is a very good dry backpack with a few small advantages over the Overboard Dry Backpack and Seattle Sports Aquaknot.

OUR RECOMMENDATION: The two Overboard bags are nearly the same, but the ProSport narrowly wins out due to a couple of small features and slightly cheaper price. The Seattle Sports Aquaknot is also excellent if you’re looking for a smaller bag.

Adventures >> Gear Recommendations >> Dry-Bags & Dry Backpacks

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Marine Attractions GPS Data

Marine Attractions GPS Data

Downloadable GPS Data Files

The following files contain all the packaged GPS data for each feature or attraction on the Marine Attractions guide.

Three file types are provided. KMZ and KML files are compatible with Google Earth. KML is compatible with Google Maps. GPX files can be imported into ArcGIS (a professional mapping application) and some hand-held GPS devices.

NOTE: All files are free to the public and can be used for any purpose without permission.

Coastline

These lines were drawn during the course of this project from existing aerial photography and satellite imagery.

Mangroves

Including all mangrove forests around Pohnpei Island and its lagoon islands; these lines were drawn during the course of this project from existing aerial photography and satellite imagery.

Reefs

These lines were drawn during the course of this project from existing aerial photography and satellite imagery.

Surf Breaks

Locations were marked based on data provided Pohnpei Surf Club.

SCUBA Diving & Snorkeling

Locations were marked based on data provided by knowledgeable local diving guides and our own on-the-ground data gathering experiences.

Swimming Spots

Locations where poor water quality or environmental contamination make them unsafe for swimming have not been included here. This includes all of the watercourses around Mand, Madolenihmw Municipality (with one exception) and almost everything in Sokehs Municipality. Locations are GPS-verified.

Paddling (Suggested Kayaking, Canoeing & Paddleboarding Routes)

All data was gathered first-hand during this project (all of these routes were paddled); routes are GPS-verified.

Marine Parks in Awak Pah (2015)

Marine Protected Areas, Mangrove Forest Reserves, and Sanctuaries

Shapes are approximations based on data and maps provided by Conservation Society of Pohnpei (CSP) and were not GPS-verified in the course of this project.

Coordinates

The following coordinates correspond with sites featured on the Marine Attractions Eco-Adventure Map Guide. It is our dream to eventually create a Pohnpei GPS app that could be uploaded to smartphones and other devices, but for now, these points of interest can be entered manually in a hand-held GPS device as needed.

NOTE: All GPS devices have a margin of error. That margin increases with interference — when there is a thick canopy of trees, during bad weather, or when mountains obstruct the satellite link.

Awak Marine Parks

Awak Pah MP Entrance —- 6.965910° 158.250758°
Pein Ahi Entrance —- 6.966711° 158.251138°
Paieke Entrance —- 6.969853° 158.256294°
Awak Pah MP Dock —- 6.966470° 158.248785°
Pein Ahi Fish Pond —- 6.967572° 158.249929°

Downloads >> GPS Central >> Marine Attractions GPS Data

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Paddling Around Western Kitti

Pwudoi Mangrove Sanctuary

This small reserve covers an area of 1.39 km2 and includes the pristine mangrove forests around Pwudoi (north of Dolen Uh) and some of the adjacent lagoon and fringing reef. There are two major mangrove channels that run through the sanctuary. One goes 0.69 km (0.43 mi) up to Pilen Seleur — the same watercourse where the eel pools are located. The other channel is 0.61 km (0.38 mi) long. Both are excellent, scenic paddles with plenty of seabirds to scope out. The launch at Seinwar is a good point of access for this area.

  • Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Mangrove Channels & Coastline

Western Kitti doesn’t have an abundance of long mangrove channels to paddle through, but it does have lots of smaller ones. The best of these are in the north. One interesting loop cuts around a chunk of mangrove forest, combining the 0.68 km (0.42 mi) of Dauen Tomwara with another 0.7 km (0.44 mi) segment. Another loop encircles Kiparalap Island with a 0.48 km (0.3 mi) segment through the mangroves. If you put in near the Sakartik Stream bridge (Pilen Sakartik), you can also experience this 0.89 km (0.55 mi) channel leading to the lagoon. Dauen Nansakar offers another 0.83 km (0.52 mi) of channel to explore.

Nearby Islands

Two single islands in the north — Kiparalap and Pohn Lahpar — and two island chains make great destinations for paddlers. You can get to the coast of Kiparalap from the south side and Pohn Lahpar from the east side. Otherwise, both islands are surrounded by mangrove forests. A string of small islands and mangrove clumps on the barrier reef south of Dauahk Passage (Kepidauen Dauahk) are roughly 5.5 km (3.42 mi) west of the community launch in Dien. It’s a fairly long paddle, but the islands make a nice spot for a rest and some lunch. The snorkeling on the inner reef walls in the area is sublime. Finally, the beautiful islands of Kehpara and “Black Coral” lie 6.58 km (4.1 mi) southwest of the Seinwar launch. There are primitive shelters on both islands for camping and incredible snorkeling in the pass that runs between. Kehpara has a beautiful white sand beach at one end.

  • Visit the Islands page for more information about Kehpara and Black Coral islands and how to book huts for overnight stays in either location.
  • Entering Kehpara MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Paddling Distances Around Western Kitti

Starting Ending Distance (km) Distance (mi)
Dien Launch —- Pohn Lahpar Island East Coast 1.9 km 1.18 mi
Dien Launch —- Kiparalap Island South Coast 2.4 km 1.5 mi
Kiparalap Loop —- 2 km 1.24 mi
Dien Launch —- Dauen Tomwara (Channel) 1 km 0.62 mi
Dien Launch —- Kepidauen Dauahk (Passage) 7.2 km 4.47 mi
Dien Launch —- Dauen Soundau (Channel) Launch 5.8 km 3.6 mi
Dauen Tomwara (Channel) Loop —- 2.9 km 1.8 mi
Kiparalap Channel East End —- Kiparalap Channel West End 0.48 km 0.3 mi
Dien Launch —- Kepidauen Pehleng (Passage) 6.67 km 4.1 mi
Dien Launch —- Dauahk Islands 5.5 km 3.4 mi
Sakartik Bridge Launch* —- Lagoon 0.89 km 0.55 mi
Sakartik Bridge Launch* —- Dauen Nansakar (Channel) East End* 1.27 km 0.79 mi
Sakartik Bridge Launch* —- Pwel Weita Launch* 4.8 km 3 mi
Pwel Weita Launch* —- Pilen Seleur East End* 3.97 km 2.5 mi
Pwel Weita Launch* —- Unnamed Island North Coast 2 km 1.24 mi
Seinwar Launch —- Pilen Seleur East End* 1.97 km 1.22 mi
Pwel Weita Launch* —- Seinwar Launch 4.53 km 2.8 mi
Seinwar Launch —- Sekeren Iap Launch 4.9 km 3 mi
Seinwar Launch —- Kehpara / Black Coral islands 6.58 km 4.1 mi

*This segment may be difficult or impossible to traverse at low tide.

Map Guides >> Western Kitti >> Paddling Around Western Kitti

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Temwen Vicinity Paddling

Hiking / TrekkingWorld War II FortificationsArchaeology Site / RuinBird-WatchingCampingSwimmingSnorkelingKayaking / CanoingPicnickingBeachesMarine Reserve

Dauen Moahk, Temwen Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

If Nan Madol is your primary destination, the southern route around Temwen is the shortest, following the tranquil passage of Dauen Moahk (a meditative way to begin or end the day). Note, however, that east-bound passage under the two bridges at Temwen Causeway is extremely difficult or impossible when the tide is coming in. The current flowing into the bay can be as powerful as a river.

Temwen Island Circumnavigation

For people that want an upper-body workout, the 8.9 km (5.3 mi) paddle around Temwen is an interesting journey with a variety of different sights along the way. Be informed on the tides before starting as the reefs on the northeast and northwest sides are only inches deep at low tide.

Heading north, there are wonderful views of scenic (but murky) Madolenihmw Bay and nearby Takaiuh and Nahnpahlap hills. Peipas Island, a man-made basalt burial structure that is probably related to Nan Madol, is hidden among the mangroves of Temwen’s western coast. Salong Point, Temwen Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)Further on, stony Salong Point juts north almost to the edge of the channel. Unusual eroded rock formations and a complete lack of mangroves make the place visually unique and worth a look. There’s also a small sea-cave and a portal in the topography that frames conical Takaiuh. Depending on tides and recent rain, the sheltered bay east of the point is sometimes a nice place for a dip, though there isn’t enough coral in the area for snorkeling.

The segment between Salong Point and the Japanese Wharf can be a challenging paddle as Kepidauen Deleur is known for its rough water. This is apparently due to two seamounts in the area, called Mwudokendil and Mwudokensepehl. From the Japanese Wharf, it’s another 1.4 km (0.87 mi) to Nan Douwas. Enter the ruins from the north between Temwen and Peniot.

On the southern side of Temwen, you have the choice of several different channels through the mangroves, though all except Dauen Moahk are heavily silted in and impassable at low tide. The two largest islands between Temwen and Pohnpei — Mwudokalap and Mwudoketik — both host prehistoric stone structures related to Nan Madol. The former was the place where Isokelekel first encountered his estranged son, Nahlepenien, who would eventually become the first Nahnken and later the Nahnmwarki of U.

Rainbow over Nahnningi Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Nahnningi & Mall Islands

South of Temwen are Nahnningi (believed to be a man-made island from the Nan Madol era) and Mall islands. The latter has a stone tomb at the northern end. The Namwen Nahnningi Stingray Sanctuary lies northwest of the islands.

  • Visit the Islands page for more information about these locations.

Other Islands

Five islands are found northeast of Temwen at the edge of the massive reef shelf called Mad Pahra. Nahpali is littered with Japanese-era historical sites and has a couple of nice sandy beaches. Little Dekehmwahu also has a nice, secluded beach, but to get to it, you’ll have to paddle around Nahpali’s southern side. Na island’s nicest coasts are on the north side. The same is true of Dekehtik. Nahkapw is a little apart from the others with easy access to the best snorkeling in the area.

  • Visit the Islands page for more information about these locations.

Pahn Nahkapw & Kahnimweiso

The deep water between Nan Madol and Nahkapw at first appears to be a wide channel leading to the open ocean, but may in fact be something called a “blue hole.” It has been hypothesized that this trench is actually a collapsed portion of the reef shelf. Pohnpei oral histories speak of another stone city, called Kahnimweiso, that pre-dated Nan Madol and was said to lie where Pahn Nakapw is now. One theory proposes that the weight of the basalt constructions coupled with the undermining of the limestone reef shelf by freshwater run-off, could have caused a collapse and sent Kahnimweiso plummeting 65 meters to the bottom. When you see how the sandy shore at Nahkapw’s north end drops straight off into deep blue or experience the odd currents in the area, it’s not hard to believe that the site is special. To date, the theories have not been properly tested and Pahn Nahkapw has retained its secrets and its eerie feel.

Southeast wall of Peikapw, Nan Madol, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Nan Madol

If coming from the south, enter the ruins through Dauen Moahk, the first mangrove channel encountered (high tide only). The first stops include Pahn Kadira and Kelepwel islets. From there, you can venture northeast up the canal to Peikapw, Idehd, Dorong, and Peneiring. Further north, notable sites include Kerian, Peikapw Sapwawas, Dau, Pahn Douwas, Pohn Douwas, Nan Douwas, and Konderek. On the return trip south, catch Lemenkau and adjacent Namwenkau (pool) and the huge boulder wall of Pahnwi at the southwest corner. The upper portion of Mweiden Kitti is silted in and nearly closed off by encroaching mangrove trees; it’s impassable even at high tide. All of the entrances on Madol Pah‘s southwest perimeter are now dead-ends, but provide nice sandy spots to picnic.

From the north, it’s easiest to enter Nan Madol at Dauen Nankieilmwahu between Temwen and Peniot islet — especially when surge and choppy seas in Pahn Nahkapw make the narrow gap at Nan Mwoluhsei too risky.

Paddling Distances Around Temwen Island

Starting Ending Distance (km) Distance (mi)
MERIP —- Temwen Causeway 0.59 km 0.37 mi
Temwen Causeway —- Pahn Kadira islet* 1.7 km 1.0 mi
Dauen Moahk —- Pahnwi islet 0.89 km 0.55 mi
Pahnwi islet —- Lemenkau islet* 0.58 km 0.36 mi
Lemenkau islet —- Dorong islet* 0.62 km 0.39 mi
Lemenkau islet —- Peinering islet* 0.39 km 0.25 mi
Peinering islet —- Kerian islet* 0.42 km 0.26 mi
Peinering islet —- Nan Douwas islet* 0.41 km 0.25 mi
MERIP —- Salong Point 2.2 km 1.37 mi
Salong Point —- Japanese Wharf 1.0 km 0.64 mi
Japanese Wharf —- Nan Douwas islet* 1.4 km 0.87 mi
Japanese Wharf —- Nahpali Island 2.63 km 1.63 mi
Nahpali Island —- Dekehmwahu Island 2.00 km 1.5 mi
Kerian islet —- Nahkapw Island 0.89 km 0.55 mi
Nahkapw Island —- Dekehtik Island 0.52 km 0.32 mi
Dekehtik Island —- Northern Na Island 2.9 km 1.8 mi
Northern Na Island —- Dekehmwahu Island 0.77 km 0.48 mi
Mweiden Kitti —- Nahnningi Island 0.69 km 0.43 mi
Nahnningi Island —- Mall Island 0.42 km 0.26 mi

*Silted-in estuary. This segment may be difficult or impossible to traverse at low tide.

Map Guides >> Temwen Vicinity >> Temwen Vicinity Paddling

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Paddling Around Central Madolenihmw

Hiking / TrekkingWorld War II FortificationsArchaeology Site / RuinBird-WatchingCampingSwimmingSnorkelingKayaking / CanoingPicnickingBeachesMarine Reserve

Dauen Sapwalap / Senipehn Mangrove Reserve

Dauen Sapwalap is the largest drainage in Madolenihmw, a wide, meandering channel that cuts through the mangrove forests from Kitamw and eventually empties into Madolenihmw Bay. Although the Lehdau River (Pillapen Lehdau) is probably the largest contributor to this major estuary, the two are not synonymous; the channel is also fed by three other watercourses, including the Kitamw Stream (Pilen Kitamw), Pwadapwad Stream (Pilen Pwadapwad), and River of Sekere Riau (Pillapen Sekere Riau). According to legend, a powerful demi-god named Lapongo — the same character involved in the story of Takaiuh peak — dug out the channel with his penis. The matriarch of the Lasialap Clan — a great eel responsible for the creation of Lipwentiak in Kitti and whose tail formed the great mountain in Nett, Pohnlehr — was also said to have dwelt in this channel for many years, terrorizing the local inhabitants.

During the 1889-1890 wars between the Spanish and Pohnpeians, which began in Ohwa and concluded in Kitamw, two contingents of Spanish troops were dispatched at the mouth of Dauen Sapwalap and attempted to move up both banks of the Pillapen Lehdau (Lehdau River) to reach a small half-finished fort built on a low hill by the Pohnpeian fighters. The first group of soldiers got terribly lost in the tangled forests and happened upon the fort only by mere chance. The second group was forced off-route by a seemingly supernatural flood and also ended up lost, camping overnight at Elieliwi before joining the fray. The assault cost the Spanish 21 men, and in the end the Pohnpeians merely withdrew and yielded a position that had meant little to them from the beginning.

In the last decade, the estuary became part of the Senipehn Mangrove Forest Reserve and afforded some environmental protections; tree-cutting, fishing, and gathering of other natural resources in the area is prohibited in most circumstances. Paddlers can explore the 2.6 km (1.62 mi) primary channel and its side passages by launching near the Lehdau River bridge, at the end of the road near Tahio, at the Madolenihmw “Ice Dock”, or at the MERIP boathouse.

  • Entering the mangrove reserve requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Takaiuh peak, Madolenihmw, Pohnpei Island, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Takaiuh Peak

While Sokehs Rock is the stand-out natural feature in the north, in Madolenihmw that title certainly goes to Takaiuh (“standing rock”), a majestic conical hill-island on the north side of the bay. Westerners called this feature “Sugarloaf” after the molded cones of sugar that were popular in Western Europe as early as 1470, but the local name and its story are much more interesting (see Madolenihmw Bay Area page for more).

Paddlers can get right up close to the iconic hill for a view from the water that is better than from anywhere on land. There’s also good fun to be had noodling around in the mangrove forests on the eastern shore (at high tide). A sweet spot to stop for a picnic lunch is the top of an exposed rocky rise 0.36 km (0.22 mi) northwest of the peak (no mangroves skirt this bit of the shore).

Pahn Dieinuh

Pahn Dieinuh, the southern point of the Dolopwail peninsula, is significant historically for the 1836 conflict that began there between the visiting British whaleship Falcon and two rival Pohnpeian chiefs — Luhk en Kesik ( the Nahnmwarki) and the Wasai, the first and second ranking men in the royal line, respectively. Things got ugly when the Nahnmwarki made a move to seize the ship and its cargo. When the ship attempted to flee, it ran up on the reef. The cargo was transferred to Nahpali Island and then stolen a month later by the Nahnmwarki‘s brother, Nahnawa. A battle ensued on Nahpali between Nahnawa‘s party and the whalers, ending in the deaths of the ship’s captain and three other sailors. The Wasai, who had been challenging the Nahnmwarki‘s authority for some time, seized this opportunity to rid the land of his enemy by joining the crews of other whaleships in hunting down both Nahnawa and the Nahnmwarki. Fighting continued for several days until the Nahnmwarki was shot and Nahnawa captured and hanged from the yardarm of the whaleship Lambton. Both bodies were buried at Pahn Dieinuh, and the Wasai assumed the position of the Nahnmwarki. There isn’t much of anything to see at Pahn Dieinuh now, but it’s a good spot for a break mid-route. The closest launch points are MERIP boathouse, the “Ice Dock”, and the Metipw launch.

Mwudokolos Island

In addition to the seven islands (Nahpali, Dekemwahu, Na, Dehketik, Nahkapw, Nahnningi, and Mall) found around Temwen, there are three small islands to the north that shouldn’t be missed. The first of these — Mwudokolos — is found a half-kilometer (0.33 mi) northeast of Metipw and easily accessed from the coral-dredged causeway/dock found there (ask at the nearest house for permission to launch). Archaeologist Arthur Saxe believed that the island was tied to Nan Madol in some way and that it might even be a man-made island, but Japanese archaeologists working on the island in recent years have found no hard evidence to support that idea. They did discover prehistoric stone structures and a house platform that dates to the Nahnmwarki Period of Nan Madol (post-1700). Glass beads, sherds, and clay pipes were also found, suggesting that Mwudokolos was occupied by foreign traders in the late 1800s. The island is privately owned, but unoccupied.

  • To obtain permission for day visits or overnight stays, call Sesuko Hadley at +691.320.2540.

Dahu Reirei Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Dahu Reirei Island

From Mwudokolos, paddlers can continue 1.8 km (1.13 mi) further north through the easternmost of two dredged reef channels to reach Dahu Reirei (“long channel”), a narrow, man-made islet with huts for picnickers and campers and lots of pleasant swimming and snorkeling. When we say this island is narrow, we mean narrow (10 meters wide). Unless you like being crammed together elbow-to-elbow, avoid the place on weekends and holidays. It’s also not a place to be on intensely hot days (there are no trees large enough to provide shade) or during bad weather (the island is hardly a meter above sea level at high tide). On partly-cloudy weekdays, however, it can be heavenly. The surrounding water is generally crystal-clear and the reefs, which consist mainly of varieties of staghorn coral, are surprisingly healthy and relatively well-populated with reef fish. Small thatched huts along the length of the strip can be rented for the day or overnight.

  • To make reservations for day visits or overnight stays and to arrange boat transport, call Joseph Helgenberger at +691.320.2229.

Lepin Dau (“Channel Island”)

The final island covered in this sector (it’s just off the edge of the Central Madolenihmw map, but appears on the U & Northern Madolenihmw map) is claimed by the same family as Dahu Reirei and has no official name, but as it lies adjacent to the primary channel every boat in the area uses to go from Areu and Ohwa to Madolenihmw Bay, it’s known as Lepin Dau or “Channel Island.” This island is larger and higher than Dahu Reirei and has some welcoming tree-cover (mostly pandanus). The channel on the west side is a nice spot to snorkel at slack tide, but at other times, the current can be so strong that snorkelers and swimmers run a strong risk of being swept away. A better spot for snorkeling is in the blue holes around the southeast side — well out of the path of the current. Here you can find beautiful coral grottoes, huge schools of needlefish, barracuda, cuttlefish, trumpetfish, angelfish, and parrotfish, an odd seasnake (the latter are venomous, but so passive that they pose little danger to snorkelers), and from time to time even eagle rays and small green turtles. It’s a fantastic picnic destination for paddlers.

  • You don’t really need to get permission to make day visits to “Channel Island,” but overnighters should call Joseph Helgenberger at +691.320.2229.

Nanwap Marine Protected Area

The reefs on the north side of Kepidauen Deleur make up the Nanwap Marine Protected Area (MPA), a marine reserve with excellent snorkeling and diving. The best place to snorkel is about 1.3 km east of Metipw in a protected reef hole, but watch for strong currents.

Paddling Distances Around Central Madolenihmw

Starting Ending Distance (km) Distance (mi)
“Ice Dock” —- Tahio* 3.12 km 1.94 mi
“Ice Dock” —- Sekeren Senipehn 2.5 km 1.6 mi
Sekeren Senipehn —- Dauen Wetiak 1.7 km 1.0 mi
Dauen Wetiak —- Dauen Sapwalap 1.3 km 0.8 mi
Dauen Sapwalap —- Pilen Kitamw (Kitamw Stream) Bridge 2.6 km 1.6 mi
“Ice Dock” —- Takaiuh Shore* 2.45 km 1.5 mi
“Ice Dock” —- Pahn Dieinuh* 2.6 km 1.62 mi
Takaiuh Shore* —- Diadi 3.44 km 2.1 mi
Japanese Wharf, Temwen Is. —- Diadi 0.99 km 0.61 mi
MERIP* —- Pahn Dieinuh 2.48 km 1.54 mi
MERIP* —- Salong Point, Temwen Is. 2.2 km 1.4 mi
Salong Point, Temwen Is. —- Japanese Wharf, Temwen Is. 1.0 km 0.64 mi
Japanese Wharf, Temwen Is. —- Nahpali Island 2.63 km 1.63 mi
Nahpali Island —- Metipw Launch 2.59 km 1.61 mi
Diadi —- Metipw Launch 2.8 km 1.75 mi
Kepidauen Deleur —- Nanwap Marine Protected Area (MPA) 1.24 km 0.77 mi
Metipw Launch —- Mwudokolos Is. Circumnavigation 1.4 km 0.9 mi
Metipw Launch —- Dahu Reirei Is. 1.86 km 1.2 mi
Dahu Reirei Is. —- “Channel Island” (see U Municipality & Northern Madolenihmw guide) 1.53 km 0.95 mi
Metipw Launch —- Pilen Semwei 2.61 km 1.62 mi

*Silted-in reef. This segment may be difficult or impossible to traverse at low tide.

Map Guides >> (Central) Madolenihmw >> Paddling Around Madolenihmw

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Paddling in Nett, U & Northern Madolenihmw

Dausokele Estuary

As paddling goes in the Nett region, Dausokele estuary (“channel of the dwarves”) is the crown jewel, a long, gorgeous inlet that lies between Kolonia and the leaf-shaped Nett Peninsula and serves as the mouth of a number of high-volume rivers and streams. The scenery is stunning, especially on days where rain threatens, with high, sheer cliffs to the east, the heights of Dolen Nett in the north, and the pyramid-like peak of Dolen Eirike in the south. Depending on where you begin, you can go as far as 4.5 km (2.8 miles) inland before having to turn around. Most of the way, mangrove forests skirt the coast, so there’s nowhere to land and get out. The final 0.7 km (0.4 mi) follows meandering, narrow natural channels through the swamp forests, where you’re liable to meet locals and traditional outrigger canoes and young kids having a swim. The route tends to be well-protected from both currents and wind, so it’s a nice, leisurely paddle, allowing plenty of time to soak up the scenery. There are multiple places to launch on the Airport Causeway as well as the “Ice Dock” near the Kolonia Public Market building, and next to the PAMI building.

Nett Point

Another great paddling destination is Nett Point, Kolonia’s best swimming spot and the closest thing to a beach Pohnpei Island has to offer. Lidakika Launch point on the Airport Causeway is the most practical place to begin.

  • Visit the Nett Point page for detailed information about this location.

Dolen Nett Peninsula Circumnavigation

If you want to try something a little longer and more challenging, you can continue past Nett Point, explore the east coast of the peninsula (which includes one of the locations where the mythical builders of Nan Madol were said to have briefly settled), and then cross the beautiful little bay to the quaint picnic and swimming area at Awak Pah Marine Park. Note that strong winds can be a problem along the eastern coastal section. If you’re plan is a there-and-back-again, you’re looking at around 17 km (10.6 mi) round-trip.

Lenger & Sapwtik Islands

Two of the most interesting islands on Pohnpei are found directly north of Kolonia and can be reached quite easily via paddle-power. Both islands offer a wealth of Japanese fortifications from WWII and earlier, as well as other historical sites, swimming, and snorkeling.

Parem Island

The largest island in the northern lagoon is Parem, which is large enough to have its own elementary school. Like nearby Lenger and Sapwtik, the Japanese fortified the island prior to WWII. In fact, the coastal gun on Sokehs Mountain may have once been positioned at the top of Dolen Parem before being moved to its present location.

With the exception of a portion of the eastern coast, Parem is completely surrounded by mangrove forests — some of them quite extensive. There are two good channels to explore on the west side where the mangroves are at their widest — one 0.7 km (0.4 mi) long and the other 0.4 km (0.25 mi). Both reach all the way to solid ground at high tide and are beautiful places to scope out the local birds. You can also do a complete circumnavigation of the island, which is 7.9 km (4.9 mi) in total. On the east coast there’s a long stone wharf jutting out from the shore, suitable for a little break, a snack and a dip.

Paddling Distances Around Nett, U & Northern Madolenihmw

Starting Ending Distance (km) Distance (mi)
Lidakika Launch Point —- Causeway Tunnel 1.5 km 0.9 mi
Causeway Tunnel —- Dausokele Bridge 2.4 km 1.5 mi
Dausokele Bridge —- Inlet Terminus 2.24 km 1.4 mi
Causeway Tunnel —- Nett Point 2.3 km 1.4 mi
Nett Point, Nett —- Awak Pah Marine Park (along the coast) 4.75 km 3 mi
Nett Point, Nett —- Awak Pah Marine Park (as the crow flies) 2.8 km 1.7 mi
Lidakika Launch Point —- Awak Pah Marine Park 17 km 10.6 mi
Misko Beach, Dekehtik Island —- Barbosa’s Wharf, Lenger 4.52 km 2.8 mi
Ice Dock, Kolonia Town —- Barbosa’s Wharf, Lenger 3.53 km 2.2 mi
Nett Point, Nett —- Barbosa’s Wharf, Lenger 1.97 km 1.22 mi
Nett Point, Nett —- South Point, Parem 2.5 km 1.6 mi
South Point, Parem —- South Point, Parem (Loop) 7.9 km 4.9 mi

*Silted-in reef. This segment may be difficult or impossible to traverse at low tide.

Map Guides >> Greater Nett & Western U >> Nett & Western U Paddling

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Sokehs Island Paddling

Bird-WatchingSwimmingSnorkelingKayaking / CanoeingPicnicking

Daumwoakote

Micronesian Kingfisher
Daumwoakote, the magical 2 km (1.24 mi) mangrove passage running between Sokehs Island and Pohnpei Island, is an absolute must-see for anyone with a heart for adventure and an eye for beauty. If you launch opposite St. Peter’s Church, you can catch the tide and cruise west through the tunnel-like avenue of trees to the accompaniment of a chorus of birds. Early in the morning and late in the afternoon there are so many winged creatures around that the place feels like an aviary. The trees are also bewildering–great twisted wonders with looping prop roots and spiking pneumatophores. The mangroves propagate both by dropping dart-like propagules into the silty mud and by sending down hundreds of dangling extensions that add to the primordial atmosphere. Several species are found in the area. About two-thirds of the way through, you have the option of continuing in the main channel or deviating to one of two smaller passages just wide enough for a kayak or canoe.

Sokehs Island Circumnavigation

From the west end of Daumwoakote, roughly 10 km (6.2 mi) remain to completely encircle the island. Along the way, you’ll cross emerald reef pools in the bay, skirt dense mangrove forests, and get fantastic views of the green cliffs of Pohndollap. The “Doldrums” at APSCO makes a perfect spot for a rest, a rejuvenating swim, and a snack.

The Labyrinth

Paddling the Labyrinth, Sokehs Island, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
The “Labyrinth”, located southwest of Daumwoakote at the mouth of the Nankewi River, is composed of hundreds of small mangrove islets growing in a dense cluster. There is no particular route–just paddle in and let yourself wander through the myriad passageways and shallow pools, inhabited by crabs, the occasional black-tip reef shark or hunting snapper, communities of juvenile fish, and a variety of seabirds and shorebirds. The water depth ranges from a half meter to 1.5 meters.

Note that the area between the Sokehs Island Bridge and Daumwoakote is very shallow at low tide, and at high tide, you may find that branches over the water don’t give you much room to move. Most of the routes on this guide, however, should be passable during all but the most freakish of tidal fluctuations.

Paddling Distances Around Sokehs Island

Starting Ending Distance (km) Distance (mi)
Sokehs Island Bridge* —- Daumwoakote West End 1.97 km 1.22 mi
Daumwoakote West End —- The “Doldrums” 4.41 km 2.57 mi
The “Doldrums” —- Danipei Portage Point 2.49 km 1.55 mi
Danipei Portage Point —- Sokehs Island Bridge 2.91 km 1.81 mi

*Silted-in estuary. This segment may be difficult to traverse at low tide.

Map Guides >> Sokehs Island >> Sokehs Island Paddling

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Madolenihmw Bay Area

BikingHiking / TrekkingCave, Tunnel or BunkerWorld War II FortificationsArchaeological Site / RuinBird-WatchingCampingSwimmingSnorkelingSCUBA divingKayaking / CanoeingSurfingPicnickingBeachesMarine Reserve

Dauen Sapwalap / Senipehn Mangrove Reserve

  • Visit the Paddling Around Madolenihmw page for a detailed description of this location and the adventures to be had in the area.
  • Entering the mangrove reserve requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Kamau Pwoungapwoung

Though we didn’t map the hike to this destination as part of the eco-adventure map series (for lack of time), it would, never the less, be an exciting adventure to consider. Kamau Pwoungapwoung refers to a freshwater pool and waterfall at the headwaters of the Dipwilap Stream (Pilen Dipwilap), one of the tributaries of the Senipehn River (Pillapen Senipehn). The place is significant as the location where the last battle between the Saudeleur‘s warriors and Isokelekel’s men was fought. Upon being defeated by Isokelekel, the Saudeleur transformed himself into a small blue fish, that inhabits the pool to this day, and leaped into the waterfall. The hike would be a long one from the area around Pahn Sile. The closest access point would probably be from the direction of Nihpit fern meadow (reached from eastern Kitti).

  • The absolute best choice for a guide is Relio Lengsi. Give him a call at +691.924.2580 and discuss the best route options and access points for this location. Offer $50.00 for a full-day hike.

Nanpahlap Peak

The 137 m (449 ft) hill to the east of Takaiuh looks as if its top has been lopped off — which fits in with the story about its creation (see Takaiuh below). Though steep in places and somewhat overgrown, the ascent isn’t too strenuous. At the summit are the tumbled ruins of a prehistoric stone structure and a breath-taking view. The whole area around the southern foot of the hill is criss-crossed with Japanese trenches and dotted with tunnels, including at least one very long one leading into the hill. The grid of paddies and irrigation canals where the Japanese successfully cultivated rice (despite Pohnpei’s challenging climate conditions) are found on both sides of the unpaved access road, though you can get closest to the bulk of these fields from another road to the west.

Everything is private land, but no official access fees are charged.

  • To hire a guide, ask at the houses in the area or contact Hanke Albert at +691.320.4047. Offer $25.00 for Nanpahlap or a half-day of exploration in the area.

Nanwap Marine Protected Area (MPA)

Nanwap Marine Protected Area is a 3.05 km2 (305 hectare) section of the barrier reef and adjacent lagoon areas on the north side of Kepidauen Deleur (passage). The sanctuary was founded by community members from Metipw and Lukop and their respective chiefs and gained legal status in 2010. It became the first of Pohnpei’s MPAs to have its own formal community-created management plan with the support of the Pohnpei MPA Executive Management Network and the state offices of the Department of Land and Natural Resources, Division of Fish and Wildlife, Office of Fisheries and Aquaculture, and Environmental Protection Agency. Nanwap is a “no-take zone,” which means no fishing or gathering of any kind is allowed within the boundaries. It is regarded as the “most biologically diverse and best preserved spawning and aggregation site” for many of Pohnpei’s core reef fish species. Snorkelers should seek out the protected blue holes on the west side of the reef, while SCUBA divers will want to do a drift dive on the southern wall of the reef during an in-coming tide.

  • Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Pahn Dieinuh

Boys roll tires for a game, Madolenihmw, Pohnpei Island, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Peiai

Peiai is a small populated place near the turn-off for Pahn Sile waterfall. During the battle between the warriors of Isokelekel and the army of the last Saudeleur, Peiai was the place where the tide of battle turned dramatically (hence, the name references a situation where the runner-up in a race pulls ahead of the leader — loosely translated “the battle is reversed”). Isokelekel’s men were being beaten down by the forces of Nan Madol when one of the conqueror’s greatest fighting men pinned his own foot to the ground with his spear, refusing to retreat and declaring that he would kill any man who tried to run away from the fight. Isokelekel’s men rallied behind this show of bravery and pushed back the Saudeleur‘s warriors, chasing them up the Senipehn River and eventually to Kamau Pwoungapwoung, a waterfall at the headwaters of the Dipwilap Stream, where the Saudeleur was finally defeated.

Sapwalap

Sapwalap (“large land”) is an expansive region of mostly flat ground that makes up a sizable chunk of central Madolenihmw. The Japanese recognized Sapwalap‘s potential as a site of large-scale agriculture. During the thirty years leading up to World War II, sugarcane was cultivated and processed at a facility near Kitamw (the tower is still partly visible in the jungle off the road) and rice was grown in a patchwork of paddies fed by irrigation canals. Strangely, no one is growing rice these days, but the paddies are still there opposite the gleaming LDS Church. Other fields are found as far east as Lukop.

Takaiuh peak, Madolenihmw, Pohnpei Island, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Tahio

Tahio, on the south side of Nanpahlap, is another place where the Japanese were active. The access road was built by them and the coastal area is full of trenches, rifle pits, dugouts, and tunnels. Everything is overgrown, but anyone who pokes around will be rewarded with interesting finds. Bring a local resident along.

Takaiuh Peak

You can’t visit Madolenihmw without being arrested by the sight of Takaiuh, a 160 m (525 ft) peak shaped like a traffic cone that stands on the north side of the bay and seems to guard the entrance to the Sapwalap estuary. The mythical origin-story of the hill — which bears a striking resemblance to the Biblical tale of the tower of Babel — involves Mwohnmur and Sarapwau, two wily brothers who enter into many Pohnpeian legends (they also created the Sahwar Valley and the rock of Pohnpaip).

How Takaiuh Came to Be

Long ago, two boys named Mwohnmur and Sarapwau were born in Salapwuk (Kitti) to a woman named Lienlama. The boys were always involved in clever schemes and mischief and traveled far and wide doing great works. Once, the brothers took a piece of stone, and using it like a canoe, paddled to Pohndolen Imwinsapw near what is now Tahio in Madolenihmw. There, Mwohnmur and Sarapwau amused themselves by piling up rocks until they had formed a large hill. A local demi-god named Lapongo saw what they were doing and wasn’t pleased, so he threw a stone at their hill and destroyed it. He then challenged the brothers to a competition to see who could build a mountain the fastest. The three set to work, but it soon became apparent that the boys were winning. Their mountain was so tall it had reached the sky. Being a poor loser, Lapongo became enraged. He picked up a stone and threw it at the new mountain, which broke into six pieces. The base of the mountain that remained standing was named Takaiuh (“standing stone”).

This was not the end of the conflicts between the brothers and Lapongo, however. Lapongo mocked and ridiculed the boys whenever he could, and they did not like it. Now, the brothers liked to play at a place called Pahnlikes, below the spot where they had settled on Likes peak west of modern-day Sapwalap. There was a steep slope there that they would slide down for fun, sitting upon the leaf sheaths of the kotop palm (Clinostigma ponapensis). The boys knew that Lapongo had been watching them and was aware of their play place, so they decided to trick him. Lapongo was invited to slide down the slope with the boys, but they chose a spot where the slope ended at the waterside (possibly the southern tributary of Pilen Kitamw). All three began sliding down the hill. When Mwohnmur and Sarapwau reached the bottom, they leaped off their sheaths and dived to safety, but Lapongo went straight and fell into the water. He sank down into the depths, and the brothers threw rocks on top of him to keep him from resurfacing.

Takaiuh is actually an island separated from the coast by a strip of mangrove forest. It was once inhabited, but is no longer. Though the hill is climbable, the ascent is extremely dangerous, characterized by very steep slopes and cliffs prone to rockslides with little or nothing solid to hold on to. For this reason we strongly advise visitors to enjoy Takaiuh from below rather than trying for the summit. Hikers who insist on seeking the summit, do so at their own risk. Distant views of the peak are found along the Circle Island Road, but the best close-up view from land is from the old Japanese road in Kepine. According to residents living in the area, the Japanese abandoned an attempt to build a trail all the way to the top of the hill. Some of the low wall can still be seen on the lower slope.

Map Guides >> Central Madolenihmw >> Madolenihmw Bay Area

By pni-surfclubPosted on Posted in biking, birding, central madolenihmw, hiking & trekking, historical sites, islands, paddling, prehistoric ruins, scuba diving, snorkeling, surfing, swimming & picnicking, waterfalls, world war sitesTagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
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