Dolen Nahnsapwe, “hill of thunder,” is a small peak near the Nett–U border. As the crow flies, it’s about 1.3 km (0.8 mi) southwest of the Kupwuriso summit. Though rarely visited and not the highest point in the area, Dolen Nahnsapwe is intriguing because it’s associated with stories about the traditional thunder god, Nahnsapwe, and is said to be the place where thunder storms originate. It’s also the source of the Pwong-Kapwungapwung watercourse, a stream that forms a waterfall below the Lou Rahn ridge in Nett. It’s a challenging climb that follows a trail only part of the way, but the pay-offs come in the form of soaring vistas and gorgeous upland forests. You can approach the peak from either Nett or U or do a full traverse (6.75 km / 4.2 mi) from one side to the other.
Nett Approach
The Nett approach to Dolen Nahnsapwe feels wilder and is steeper and more strenuous. It begins on the side of an unpaved road in Paremkep. The first 0.6 km (0.37 mi) follows the same track that goes to Lou Rahn waterfall and cave with a gentle slope average of about 12%. After that, it branches off and climbs more steeply along the Lou Rahn ridgeline for 2.65 km (1.65 mi) with a slope average ranging between 20% and 25%. This brings hikers to the foot of the peak — a swampy area dominated by thickets of kotop (Clinostigma ponapensis) palms.
U Approach
The way up from U begins behind a cluster of houses at the end of the last road before the Madolenihmw border. On this side, things are much more developed and the trail is clear and well-maintained nearly to the top of the pass north of the peak. One conservation worker told us that sakau farmers from U frequently use this route to access illegal plots in the watershed on the Nett side. The 3.2 km (2 mi) trail meanders through inhabited areas and past a number of a small huts and residences (23% slope avg).
The last bit up to the tiny summit (593 m) is an over-grown, steep (46% slope avg), grubby, and sometimes unnerving scramble from the northwest side. The summit is tiny, and the ground up there has a springy, unstable feel as if you’re actually standing on layers upon layers of ferns and moss rather than solid ground — which may be the case. The effort and unease, however, are rewarded with a truly marvelous 300-degree view. Sokehs Mountain (276 m), Kolonia Town, the open summit of Kupwuriso (630 m), and Dolen Saldenre (629 m) are all visible — weather permitting.
You can do this climb as a day-hike, but a better option is to camp somewhere along the upper Pwong Stream (Pilen Pwong). Remember to pack out everything you packed in. A responsible camp site is one that is invisible once its occupants depart.
Plan for 8 hours for this hike.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Dolen Nahnsapwe. Offer $50.00 for a group of five or less.
The northernmost section of Madolenihmw is separated from the rest of the municipality by a range of low mountains that run east-west from Mesihsou to Alohkapw. This range was fortified by the Japanese army during World War II because it was easily accessible and commanded excellent views of lands both to the north and the south. The hills are riddled with tunnels and man-made caves, and a ridge path runs from the east end and connects with the primary mountain system in the central part of the island. There was a time when Japanese soldiers could travel from Mesihsou all the way to Kupwuriso without ever leaving the mountains. Small 75-80 mm guns were also installed at hidden spots among the hills.
There are many potential hikes one could do in these interesting mountains, but we’ve chosen to focus on three routes leading to small peaks along the ridge: Timwen Men, Dolakapw, and Pohn Tehnmei. All three cross private land.
Timwen Men
The name of this small peak at the western end of the ridge means “beak of the bird,” a reference to the many brown noddies that can be seen flying around the summit. The hike begins at the houses near the end of the road, belonging to the extended family of Eiber Rosario, and passes through the family’s sakau plantation on the slope. Any semblance of a trail vanishes at the foot of the hill, where you have to clamber up the steep, muddy hillside. At the top, there’s an extensive network of Japanese defensive trenches. The Japanese ridge path goes east as far as Mesihsou and west to Kupwuriso, but the problem with hiking the entire distance in one go is that the mountain range is broken up into a number of private parcels owned by different (and sometimes competing) families. The trail is easy to follow as it goes west toward the Timwen Men summit (331 m / 1,086 ft). Along the way, you’ll pass several impressive tunnels that bore into the hill and connect with the trench system. Two circular pits seem to have been either small caliber gun stations (possibly 80 mm) or rifle positions. No guns are found there now. The summit is a little overgrown, but still affords nice views of the valley.
The hike takes about 3 hours round-trip.
To arrange for a guide, ask for the colorful Eiber Rosario at the houses near the end of the road. You may also be able to locate Eiber by calling his son-in-law, Colton, at +691.923.6941. Offer $20.
Dolakapw (Edienleng)
This hike starts at the main road opposite a small store, passes through a group of houses, and follows a well-traveled footpath, climbing steadily but never steeply to Dolakapw (“new hill”), a peak in Edienleng. The trail ends at a plantation of sakau and other agroforestry crops. From there the route curves around the south side of the hill (with views of the Sapwalap plain), where two large Japanese tunnels burrow into the slope. The lower one is partially collapsed, the steel rails for a mining car still jutting out of the hole. The roof here is unstable, so it would be unwise to venture inside. The tunnel is about 15 meters long. The second tunnel, a little higher up the hill, is in better shape with U-shaped steel supports holding up the rocky roof. Bats and Caroline Islands swiftlets nest at the rear. The landowner believes that the Japanese intended to connect the two tunnels, but abandoned the project once the Allied bombing campaign began. The semi-open Dolakapw summit (305 m / 1,001 ft) is just above.
The hike takes about 3 hours round-trip.
To find a guide, visit the small store on the coastal side of the road and ask for Isaac Fred. Offer $20.
Pohn Tehnmei
This short, strenuous hike begins at the home of brothers Atsent and Romeo Welcher at the end of an intermittently paved road west of Nan Pailong. There isn’t much of a trail; the route just goes straight up the slope behind the house along an eroded track used to drag huge sakau pounding stones, called peitehl, down from the mountaintop. The first thing encountered at the top is the quarry site itself — a collection of pits from which the stones have been dug. There was a time when people came from all over the island to get peitehl at this spot. Currently, the state forbids the practice, but you may get the distinct impression that it’s still going on nonetheless. Not far from the top of the hill, a gigantic peitehl marks the spot where the brothers Olsihpa and Olsohpa looked down and first laid eyes on Sounahleng, the place where they would eventually begin the building of Nan Madol (there’s no view from here now, unfortunately). Also, a trio of large stones slightly to the west are said to have been formed from the bodies of a man, his wife, and their child. From there you can continue west along the ridge to the Pohn Tehnmei summit (347 m / 1,138 ft). The tree cover on the ridge, however, obscures any good views of the lowlands.
Plan for about 2 to 3 hours round-trip for this adventure.
Japanese Tunnel
At the base of the hill on the Welcher farmstead is a 14 meter-long curving Japanese tunnel. Mining car rails lie along the floor, and though the mouth of the cave is partially collapsed, the rest is supported by U-shaped steel supports. You can enter carefully and walk to the end (bring a headlamp or flashlight and expect some bats).
Either Atsent or Romeo Welcher (+691.925.8075) can be hired as guides, though Romeo’s English is better. If you can’t get them by phone, just go to the house and ask one of them to take you up. Offer $20.
Pahntakai literally means “under the rock” and one visit makes it immediately apparent why this geologically-unique location was given its name. A thin waterfall plummets over a concave cliff-wall more than 30 meters high, which shelters a wide strip of mostly flat ground. You can walk all the way across beneath the cliff to where the ledge widens even more and a small, rocky hill rises up north of the waterfall. Yawning caverns behind the falls host colonies of small insect-eating bats and Caroline Islands Swiftlets that hurry out at dusk to hunt for insects. If you want a closer look, you can climb up through the mounds of guano to the cave openings.
The waterfall itself varies greatly in volume, depending on rain, crashing onto jumbles of rocks below the ledge. It is possible to climb down the slope and stand under the water, but the rocks are slippery and dangerous and there is no pool.
The trail is found at the end of the road and is well-maintained and fairly level most of the way to the cave, skirted by several varieties of sakau (kava) and affording stunning views of the deep gorge below the falls, small huts on the steep hillsides, and the blue sea far out beyond the green of the island. Though you do not need a guide or any special permission to do this hike, the site is private property and the family at the last house on the road charges an entry fee of $3.00 per visitor. Make sure you bear left at the trailhead, rather than taking the path to the right which goes steeply downhill and eventually leads to a house. The hike takes a leisurely 40 minutes round-trip, but Pahntakai is so magical you’ll probably want to hang around and soak up the atmosphere.
Camping
The landowner, Pedro Marvis, permits visitors to camp overnight at Pahntakai, provided they are quiet and respectful of the place and take all their garbage with them afterward. The price per person is the same as when making a day visit — $3.00. The best place to camp is at the northwest end of the trail, where the strip of ground under the cliff is wide and flat. There’s a rock fire-pit there and sometimes some dry firewood left lying around. Because of the overhanging nature of the cliff, things stay dry even during heavy rain. There is one small stream that crosses the main trail about half-way from the trailhead — a good place to filter drinking water if you’re going to stay at Pahntakai a while.
Kupwuriso, Pohnpei’s fifth highest mountain (depending on how you count them), is impossible to miss when driving through eastern U, where it towers over everything, its precipitous slopes clad in groves of endemic palms called kotop (Clinostigma ponapensis). When the Pohnpeian hero Isokelekel sailed around the island in the mid-1600s on a mission to overthrow the Saudeleur dynasty, he initially balked at the sight of the mountain palms which he mistook for an army of giant warriors dressed in grass skirts. It was not until he returned to And Atoll, that a local woman pointed out his mistake. Giants or no, the mountain has an ominous look and feel. It’s unusually close to the coast and rises up very steeply, making it appear much taller than it really is (630 m / 2,067 ft). The name means “stomach.”
Awak Valley Approach
There are two major routes to the small, rocky summit (630 m). The first begins not far from the end of the primary paved road at the rear of the Awak Valley. To protect Mwahnd and Alohkapw (Areu) Passages from invasion, the Japanese decided to place two 15 cm naval canons just below the summit of Kupwuriso at a place called Dol Reirei (“long hill”). To get the massive weapons up the mountain, they constructed a road that climbs up on the south side of the Awak Valley and follows the ridge north. The hike uses this track for most of the way, starting on a rocky private footpath to the right of the road. The steepest section comes at the beginning. Once on the ridge, things mostly flatten out, though there are some gentle ups and downs. The terrain is fairly tame the rest of the way, passing through upland groves of kotop palm, wild banana plants (utin wel), and gnarled stands of campnosperma (dohng) and elaeocarpus (sadak) — trees used to make canoe hulls.
One of the benefits of climbing Kupwuriso is that you’re more likely to get a clear view from the summit than from Nahnalaud. The perspective is better, too; Nahnalaud’s summit sits on a wide plateau, while Kupwuriso’s looks down to the valley from the top of a cliff. Sometimes, however, the mountain is fog-bound — especially from about noon to 2 PM. Plan for 4-6 hours round-trip.
Rohi Approach
The second route starts in Rohi district at the end of a paved road. This way is shorter but considerably more strenuous, shooting 1.3 km (0.82 mi) straight up the side of the mountain. It should be noted that a number of hikers have sustained injuries on this approach, so hire a good guide, go slow, and watch for loose rocks! The route begins in the inhabited lowland agroforest, which Pohnpeians call nansapw, and quickly ascends to the mid-level forests (nanwel), populated by giant hardwoods and tree-ferns. Beyond, the forest opens up and kotop palms abound. Once the slope starts to even out, you’ve entered the cloud forest — a fantasy world of stunted, twisting trees and air plants. It’s always wet here, and every surface is covered with a thick layer of bryophytic growth. Plan for 4-6 hours round-trip.
Japanese Gun Battery
The two guns are the British Armstrong Whitworth naval type identical to the one on Sokehs Mountain. Both are housed in steel and concrete bunkers and separated by a pillbox, where machine guns were placed. The battery was installed in 1943 and took fifty-five local men eight months to complete. At 580 meters (1,903 ft), these are the highest guns on Pohnpei Island. The gnarled forest that has grown up in front of the gun sites is mesmerizing, especially in foggy conditions.
Bird-Watching
Birders will find much to look at on the way up the mountain. Besides the typical honey-eaters, starlings, and lorikeets, this is a good place to look for the Crimson-Crowned Fruit Dove, Imperial Pigeon, and Pohnpei Cicadabird. Swiftlets are common at the summit.
Please visit the Birding page for additional information.
Ridge Camping
There’s a fantastic place to camp at 593 meters not far from the gun sites with a beautiful, unobstructed view of the valley. Bring your own water, dry tender, a tarp or heavy-duty rainfly, and stakes for your tent and tarp (high winds are a distinct possibility at such elevations). Remember to leave your site exactly as you found it. Pack out everything you packed in and properly bury all human waste.
Hiring a Local Guide
A lot of people know the way up Kupwuriso, so finding a guide is not difficult. If you want to tackle the Rohi approach, Miller Benjamin (from Saladak) is a good choice. From Awak, we recommend Relio Lengsi. Conservation Society of Pohnpei (CSP) can also assist you in finding a guide. Offer $40-50 for a group of five hikers or less (plus tips). Agree on a price beforehand.
Awak Pah Marine Park is the most well-known of the parks in the area and has a nice big sign right out on the main road. From the parking area near the owner’s house, a 0.2 km (0.12 mi) coral and concrete walkway leads to the water through a dense section of mangrove forests. At the end, there’s a tiny picnic area by the water, a large nahs, and a few other huts that can be rented at an extra cost. The water is shallow and a bit silty on the south side and deep on the west and northwest side where a huge pair of PVC rings have been anchored (a good place to swim). The rock wall by the water is a fun place to jump from, but it can be difficult to climb back out. Snorkeling can be pretty good to the west along the reef wall with lots of small fish and some interesting coral growth. Unfortunately, local visitors have been careless with their garbage and the beautiful reef scenery is frequently ruined by the presence of discarded aluminum soda cans or flashlight batteries — a sad trend on Pohnpei. Water clarity varies from crystal clear to murky depending on the tides; it’s best to visit on an in-coming tide. You can visit Awak Marine Park without making arrangements beforehand.
Paieke Marine Park
Owned by Bryan Damarlane, this pleasant, breezy swim-picnic-camp park is located on a network of dredged coral causeways that extend out into the lagoon at the point where the road begins to turn east toward the Awak valley. A number of thatched residential huts varying in size and a nahs (meeting hut) or two are positioned around the water’s edge for guests at an extra cost. The swimming is good all along the west side, though the shallows tend to be silty rather than sandy. Snorkelers should follow the edge of the reef further out into the lagoon for best results. The kids will love tinkering around in the shallows under the shady trees. Paieke operates on a reservation-only basis.
To make reservations for day visits or overnight stays, call Bryan Damarlane at +691.925.0382.
Pein Ahi Marine Park
This charming, but little-known, park (pictured at top) is found just after Awak Marine Park, but as it lacks a sign, most people drive right by without realizing it’s there. From the road, a beautiful 0.16 km (0.1 mi) stone and coral walkway winds through the picturesque mangrove forests and ends at a grassy picnic area with a nahs and a large fish pond. The family keeps some very curious pufferfish and a few other reef fish in the pond, mostly for the amusement of visiting local children. The swimming all around the outside of the pond walls is excellent with consistently good water clarity. There’s a relatively shallow area on the south side that works well for kids or beginning swimmers and deeper water on the west and north. They also have a pair of large bamboo-pontoon rafts that are fun to cruise around the mangrove fringe on. Except on big holidays, you can usually visit without making any prior arrangements.
Nihco Marine Park
Nihco Marine Park, on the southwest coast of scenic Sokehs Bay is an appealing place for people of all ages to swim, barbecue, and soak up the sun. The park is comprised of a narrow, man-made semi-circle of sand with a placid lagoon in the middle where turtles and reef fish are kept. There’s a white-sand beach on the outer edge and simple thatched huts for either day or overnight visits. Small kayaks can be rented for a few dollars. The place can be packed on weekends and holidays.
To make reservations for day visits or overnight stays, call +691.320.2135 / 2659.
Nihco Surf
Nihco Surf is one of two thriving operations that cater to foreign surfers and tap into the radical power of the now world-famous reef-break at Palikir Pass. The locally owned and managed camp, situated inside Nihco Marine Park, offers six air-conditioned wifi-equipped bungalows that look out over Sokehs Bay; an on-site restaurant; kayak-rental; boat tours; And Atoll trips; and daily excursions to P-Pass, Lighthouse Break, and Mwahnd Pass.
Nearly all of Pohnpei’s coastline is surrounded by mangroves, and though these otherworldly swamp forests are incredible to explore by kayak, canoe, or paddleboard, they tend not to make good swimming spots. As a result, Nett Point — a long man-made strip of dredged coral and concrete at the north end of the Nett Peninsula — is currently the closest thing Pohnpei Island has to a beach. During the American Period, the place used to be the primary commercial dock. Supply ships would anchor at the end and a barge would carry cargo into Kolonia Harbor (the barge now rusts on the edge of the mangroves just south of Nett Point). The problem, however, was that lots of shallow reefs made Kolonia Harbor and the areas in the lagoon to the north risky for ships to navigate through. Sokehs Passage (Peinmen), to the west, was deeper and better protected. Once the modern commercial harbor and dock were established on the west coast of Dekehtik Island and big ships started using Peinmen (now called “Main Pass”) instead of Kepidauen Pweitik, Nett Point was abandoned. Over the years, the buildings and dock have been used for a variety of purposes, including storing outrigger canoes for the Nett paddling team and, most recently, as part of a clam hatchery operation. However, the point has simultaneously been a popular swimming and picnicking location for decades. The dock area has nice deep water for serious swimming and jumping and the sandy man-made beaches are perfect for kids. Some of the large trees overhanging the water have ropes attached that local kids like to swing around on. If you start near the dock and swim out along the edges of the nearby reefs, you can find some decent snorkeling. Many people barbecue on the east edge of the causeway or on the dock. Overall, Nett Point is a great place to swim, relax, and get to know some locals on a sunny day. Shade is scarce, so bring a hat. Depending on tides and recent rains (best during mid to late in-coming tide), the water is usually clean and clear with a visibility of more than ten meters.
In 2011, the Office of Tourism and the Nett Municipal Government attempted to improve the spot by cleaning it up, dumping large quantities of white sand along the western edge of the causeway, and planting trees. Further developments were announced — sand volleyball courts, public restrooms, and more were said to be in the works and it was announced that the municipality would be charging a small entry fee. After several accidents involving local boats and swimmers, a new channel was dredged not far away and all traffic was encouraged to completely by-pass the areas where people swim. When boats continued to zip through the channel without regard to people in the water, a buoy line was finally placed at the north entrance to the channel and the south end was partially blocked by a causeway. Though these changes solved the boat problem, they created another — inhibiting the natural flow of the tide through the area and reducing the water quality significantly. A small set of outhouse-style restrooms were eventually slapped together near the main road, but these were quickly destroyed by local kids. No fee was ever charged, and it’s unclear how the money would have been collected anyway. Things are very much still in flux. What Nett Point will look like in the future is anyone’s guess.
It’s easy to spend a 4-6 hours at Nett Point, when the conditions are good.
Anyone who takes a good look at the mountains on the eastern border of Nett will note a dark patch of naked basalt amid the otherwise unvarying green of the steep hillsides. This is the cliff-wall and caverns of Nan Koropwung. The trail to this spectacular and little-known site begins at the end of the unpaved but well-graded road in Paremkep and meanders up the heavily-wooded slope with some rather steep and brushy sections. Eventually, one comes to a towering wall of prismatic basalt columns overrun by a waterfall, which can be dramatic after heavy rain, but is most often thin and misty. Below the falls, the bare rock is in the process of decomposition, smooth and crumbly.
The first 164 m / 180 yd (12% slope avg) from the trailhead brings hikers to a small sakau hut in the woods. The narrow stream crosses the path 57 m (62 yd) further (16% slope avg). After that, the path fades into obscurity and it’s a challenging 489 m (0.3 mi) bush-whack scramble to the cliff and waterfall (47% slope avg). That’s not the end, however, by a long shot. If you pick your way across the rocks under the falls and along the slope for about 80 m (87 yd), you’ll come to the first cave of three. Partially hidden by a curtain of vines, this cave is well-protected from the elements and makes a good campsite. There are great views of Nett and Kolonia and some flat, dry ground.
About 130 m (142 yd) further is a second cave — this one forming a low, tunnel-like passage parallel to the hillside. Swiftlets nest on the roof and their guano covers the floor. Scramble through and you find yourself in the final cave, which is like a bay window looking out over the serene landscapes of Nett and eastern Sokehs. There’s really nothing like this spot on the island. Take care, however — the cavern opens onto a sheer (certainly fatal) drop to the valley below.
Plan for 3-6 hours for this hike.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nan Koropwung. Offer $25-37.00 for a group of five or less.
Dolen Eirike (“hill of Eirike”) is a prominent pyramid-shaped peak in Eirike district at the rear of Nett — easily visible from Kolonia and standing out from everything else as one drives south from the coast.
The ascent to the summit makes for a nice half to full-day excursion. A paved road runs through Kahmar, crosses the Pilen Kahmar bridge, and then climbs up and along a low ridge in Eirike before dipping back down again. Along the drive, you’ll pass rows of gorgeous Mindinao gums and Terminalia carolinensis trees (a species found only on Pohnpei and Kosrae) and several spots with wonderful views of the river valleys on both sides. The Eirike road, however, has some bad spots near the turn-off, so you’ll need to go slow and have a vehicle that isn’t too low to the ground.
The trailhead is located at the end of the paved road just beyond the last house and at the foot of the mountain. During the Japanese period, Catholic missionaries working in Kolonia were forceably relocated to a camp in this vicinity, though it’s not clear exactly where. Now the area is mostly small farmsteads, sakau plots, and jungle.
The well-trodden lower 0.28 km (0.17 mi) of the trail winds upwards through large areas of sakau cultivation with an average slope of about 23%. As you begin to move above the cultivated areas, the forest thickens and provides cover from the sun but not much relief from the stifling heat. The rest of the climb to the summit is a pretty consistent slope of about 38%. Giant tree ferns with blood-red sap, wild banana plants (utin wel), elaeocarpus, and ivory nut palms are abundant on the slopes.
Slightly less than a half kilometer from the top, you’ll pass a series of Japanese World War II trenches that cross the path. Historical records seem to indicate that anti-aircraft guns were also installed nearby, but they aren’t there now.
The summit itself is often overgrown, but you can get some nice views of Kolonia Town and Sokehs Island through the trees. There’s plenty of flat ground for a campsite and enough trees for protection against any wind.
Plan for 4-8 hours for this hike.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Dolen Eirike. Offer $25-50.00 for a group of five or less.
The Story of the Tree of Nansokele
Eirike was part of the ancient region of Nansokele before the chiefdom of Nett split off from Sokehs. As is told in one famous legend, shortly after the fall of the Saudeleurs, some men were trying to cut down a large Terminalia carolinensis tree (kehma) near Dolen Eirike with the intention of building a canoe. No matter what they tried, however, the tree would not fall down. The high priest of Wene was called for and used a special adze to chop through the stubborn trunk, but instead of toppling over, the tree rose up and vanished into the clouds. Soon after, word spread that a canoe made from the wood of the same tree had descended from heaven and hovered over the ocean at a spot near Temwen Island (Sounahleng). The people took this to be a divine omen, and a great meeting followed at Poasoile on Temwen Island, where the paramount chief system that exists today was established.
Nan Kiepw, which means “in the lilies,” is a hillside overshadowed by Dolmweir peak. A Pohnpeian myth tells of a Yapese magician, named Sou Iap, who voyaged to Pohnpei and was responsible for the creation of Sokehs Rock). One of Sou Iap‘s companions, Souliken And, noticed a girl collecting clams on a reef north of Sokehs Island, and thinking her very attractive, chased her deep into Nett, carrying an ihd leaf with him. On the hillside below Dolmweir peak, Souliken And lost his leaf and named the place after a species of white lily he saw there.
During the Sokehs Rebellion in 1910, Pohnpeian rebels fleeing from German and Melanesian troops briefly took refuge at Nan Kiepw, rebuilding some earthen fortifications from the Spanish Period and repelling a small attack.
Today, Nan Kiepw maintains a pristine beauty that betrays no sign of past violence. A tributary of the Nanipil River (Pillapen Nanipil) runs through the area, forming a wide gentle cascade, some small pools (though none big enough for swimming), and a “horsetail” waterfall before winding into the valley. Upstream is a basalt outcropping — really a great boulder — that forms an overhang where a few people can comfortably camp out of wind and rain. Huge ivory nut trees, red sandlewood, and a variety of hardwoods dominate the lush native forest, and there are many unusual varieties of fungi to be seen.
The Origin of the Ivory Nut Palm
On the fourth voyage to Pohnpei after its founding, a man came named Mederiap, bringing with him the ivory nut palm and propagating it on the island. Prior to this time people had mostly lived in caves, because they had nothing to use for roofing material, but ever afterward, the fronds of the ivory nut palm were woven together to produce roof thatch for houses.
The moderately challenging trail begins behind a house near the Nett hydroelectic building at the end of the Nanipil River Road (the same trailhead for Nahnalaud). Hikers cross the Nanipil River directly and walk along a well-maintained footpath for 0.99 km / 0.61 mi (5% slope avg) before coming to the first major branch. The left (east) branch leads on toward Nahnalaud, while the right (west) branch heads to Nan Kiepw. From this point it’s 1.4 km / 0.87 mi (14% slope avg) to the last residence along the trail at 265 meters of elevation, and then another 1.8 km (1.12 mi) to the waterfall. This last segment has two little ascents with slope averages of about 20% and 26% and a more moderate bit in between (11% slope avg). Sakau (kava) plantations are found on both sides of the trail much of the way. Hikers should take care to avoid damaging these valuable plants.
Crab’s Eye Vs. Red Sandlewood: What to Know and Why it Matters
Two species of trees found both in inhabited areas and in the upland forests of Pohnpei produce small brilliant red seeds about the size of popcorn kernels. These can be seen scattered across the forest floor and often on the trail leading to Nan Kiepw. Red seeds with a single black dot on them belong to Abrus precatorius (Crab’s Eye Seed or John Crow Bead), while solid red seeds come from Adenanthera pavonina (Red sandlewood). The first type of seed (with the black dot) contains a compound, called abrin, that is 75 times more toxic than ricin and can be fatal if ingested; the fatal dose is about 0.1 mg for an adult of roughly 68 kg (150 lbs). Symptoms of poisoning include nausea, vomiting, convulsions, liver failure, and death after several days. The second type of seed (all red) is harmless when cooked and is sometimes eaten as a snack by Pohnpeian children. Strangely, the same Pohnpeian name — kaikes — is used to identify the two species of trees. Both Abrus precatorius and Adenanthera pavonina originate on the Indian subcontinent. Seeds are sometimes used to make necklaces and other jewelry.
Na Malek
Na Malek (“his chickens”) is a rock overhang and cave — located in the part of upland Nett once known as Nansokele — said in myth to have been the home of the demon Taimuan. The site, which has excellent views of the valley, Dolen Eirike, and Dol Rakied, is reached via a steep loop of path (0.61 km / 0.38 mi with a 42% slope average) that branches off from the Nan Kiepw trail. The overhang is large enough to provide a protected camping spot, and the elevated cave is bone-dry, flat-floored, and suitable for sleeping. Water running off the rock can be filtered for drinking. This is a relaxing and beautiful place to watch birds, including the Grey White-eye and rare Long-billed White-eye.
Plan for 8 hours for both Nan Kiepw and Na Malek.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nan Kiepw. Offer $50.00 for a group of five or less.
The Tale of Taimuan
A well-known Pohnpeian myth states that Na Malek was the the home of a hideous old demon, named Taimuan, and his sister, Litapinmalekelek. Taimuan had a hankering for human flesh and was, in particular, interested in the beautiful daughter of the Saudeleur — the supreme ruler that reigned from Nan Madol. Deciding that he wished to devour the girl, Taimuan set out for Nan Madol, transforming himself into a handsome young man along the way and leaving his old parts at different points in the mangroves — his white hair, swollen legs, swollen testicles, sagging eyelids, etc. When Taimuan arrived at Nan Madol and presented himself to the Saudeleur, both the girl — who was called Kisin Ntamwahu (“a little bit of good blood”) — and her father were impressed with the young suitor. Kisin Ntamwahu fell for Taimuan and begged her father to let them marry. Soon the two were married and given a home on Pahn Kadira.
After residing at Pahn Kadira for a while, however, Taimuan obtained permission from the Saudeleur to take Kisin Ntamwahu back to Na Malek. On the way, he picked up all his old parts from the mangroves and was restored to his prior appearance. Kisin Ntamwahu realized she had been tricked, but Taimuan carried her away against her will and confined the girl inside the cave at Na Malek. Then he climbed to the top of the mountains to invite all the other demons in the area to join him in feasting on the girl. While he was away, his sister, Litapinmalekelek, discovered Kisin Ntamwahu and felt sorry for her. She began to dig the girl out of her prison and encouraged Kisin Ntamwahu to turn herself into an ant, in order to escape, and flee into the forest. She warned the girl not to pass any plants without greeting them politely. As Kisin Ntamwahu ran, she greeted all the plants, big and small. All except one. Feeling a sudden need to urinate, she relieved herself in the forest and didn’t realize she’d done so on a plant called kampanial.
When Taimuan found that Kisin Ntamwahu was gone, he confronted Litapinmalekelek, but she claimed to know nothing. In a rage, Taimuan showered his sister with obscenities (specifically, he shouted, “Your vagina! My penis!” — a highly offensive reference to an act of incest) and then took off into the forest to catch Kisin Ntamwahu. He questioned each plant he passed, but none would tell him anything until he came upon the kampanial, which told Taimuan which way Kisin Ntamwahu had gone. Shortly thereafter, Taimuan met two worms on the path. He asked them where the girl had gone and they promised they would tell him if he pulled down his eyelids. He did so, and the worms threw dirt in his eyes. When Taimuan tried to wash his eyes out in a nearby streamlet, the worms muddied the water upstream, causing him to go blind and eventually die.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nan Kiepw.
Tucked away in the little-seen Nett hinterlands is one of Pohnpei’s most beautiful hiking destinations. Uluhlen Lou Rahn, a fence-like ridge, extends northwest from the place where the mountains of U meet those of Nett, hiding from view the verdant valley of the Pwong Stream (Pilen Pwong). Cutting through this gorge from its source below Dolen Nahnsapwe, the stream spills over a high cliff to form a thundering waterfall next to a large cave with a view of the misty valley floor. Though there is no quick way down to the bottom of the waterfall from the cave (you can backtrack a ways and make your way down the slope to the stream), there is a gorgeous pool for swimming just up-stream with cool, crystal-clear water.
The trail to the site begins off the unpaved but well-graded road in Paremkep and sees plenty of traffic from sakau farmers and residents on the first 0.6 km (0.37 mi) leading toward the spur (12% slope avg). Once it reaches the ridge, it cuts east and passes along Lou Rahn’s inside slope rather than following the ridgeline (0.92 km / 0.57 mi, 19% slope avg). The hardest aspect of this full-day hike is the treacherous footing, as much of the last leg of the route crosses the sharp, jumbled rocks of old landslides now obscured by high grass. Take care and watch each step; a fall into one of the hidden crevices could result in a serious sprain or fracture — not a good thing to have way out in the forest on Pohnpei. There are also a great many sakau (kava) plants in the area — a massive number, in fact — which hikers must take care to avoid damaging. The roots of the plant are used to make Pohnpei’s potent ceremonial drink. Large plants can be twenty years old or more. Small huts, which farmers use while working on their plants, are passed at several places along the route.
The cave sits just to one side of the falls with a stunning view of the hidden valley. The roof is a bit low in places, but it’s quite a fair size none the less. Though a thin stream of water flows across one side of the cave floor, the rest is dry and makes an excellent camping location. Hunters often use it, and you may notice their cooking pots stored in crevices at the rear of the cave.
Plan for 6-8 hours for this hike.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Lou Rahn. Offer $37-50.00 for a group of five or less.
