Pohnpei Eco-Adventure Guide

Dream Inside, Step Outside

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Backpacking Stoves

Gear Advice: Backpacking Stoves for Pohnpei

Liquid Fuel Stoves

MSR Whisperlite Liquid Fuel StoveLiquid fuel stoves, such as those made by MSR and Optimus / Svea, are an option on Pohnpei, as white gas is available at the local hardware stores.

PROS: They heat quickly and have adjustable flames. They perform well in windy conditions. You can buy the fuel on-island.

CONS: You can’t bring these stoves on the airplane — you’d have to ship them to yourself surface mail, which would take up to 2 months. Liquid fuel stoves are also notorious for clogging. You have to waste fuel to prime some of them. The fuel is pretty toxic, and if it leaks in your pack, it will ruin a lot of stuff. Fuel has to be stored in metal bottles — which are heavy. The stoves themselves are also heavy.

Canister Stoves

Canister StoveThese stoves are fueled by an external butane or propane fuel canister that is thrown away when depleted.

PROS: They are more fuel-efficient than a liquid fuel stove.

CONS: The canisters are expensive and heavy. You can’t find replacement canisters in Pohnpei’s stores. Canisters can’t be brought on an airplane at all (including airmail), because they contain pressurized, flammable material. They’re also very bad for the environment; empty canisters can’t be refilled — they end up as trash.

Alcohol Stoves

Cat Food Can Alcohol StoveThe last choice is the alcohol stove. This is the simplest type of stove, the lightest, and the least prone to malfunction, because it has no complicated parts (no parts at all). It is nothing more than a reservoir that holds fuel, which is set aflame and burns out on its own.

PROS: The benefits of this stove type for an adventure trekker are many. Alcohol stoves are small and weigh less than 28 g (5 oz). They are fueled by denatured alcohol, which is cheap and can be purchased at Pohnpei’s hardware stores. Fuel can be stored in a regular plastic bottle. You can make the stove itself for less than $10.00 with simple materials found on Pohnpei, so you don’t need to worry about bringing one. If you do bring one, it can be taken on the airplane, as long as it’s clean.

CONS: Alcohol stoves have a slower than average boil time (6-8 minutes) and a lack of flame adjustment. It’s easy to crush these tiny stoves, but they can usually be bent back into shape with relative ease.

OUR RECOMMENDATION: A self-made cat food can alcohol stove combined with a home-made windscreen is by far the the most practical and affordable choice for Pohnpei trekkers. Watch Andrew Skurka’s video below to learn how to make this awesome stove.

Adventures >> Gear Recommendations >> Stoves

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Backpacking Cookware

Gear Advice: Backpacking Cookware for Pohnpei

MSR Titan Kettle

MSR Titan Kettle Titanium CookwareThis is a popular model among ultra-light trekkers. It holds 0.85 L (0.9 qt) and has a lid and folding handles.

PROS: It’s light — just 4.2 oz (119 g) — very durable, and not too pricey (about $60.00).

CONS: After heating, the handles are too hot to pick up bare-handed. This pot has a reputation for being hard to clean (some foods tend to stick). It’s too small if you’re cooking for two.

Evernew Titanium Pasta Pot

Evernew Titanium Pasta PotThis is a 1 L (1 qt) pot with folding insulated handles and lid.

PROS: It’s even lighter than the MSR Titan Kettle at 4.1 oz (116 g). The insulation on the handles makes it possible to grip them without protection. It has a nice strainer feature on the lid for pouring off excess water. You can get it for cheaper than the Titan, too, at about $45.00.

CONS: It’s not quite as durable as the MSR Titan. Like the Titan, it’s a small pot that isn’t practical when cooking for others.

MSR Base 2 Pot Set

MSR Base 2 Cookware SetIf you’re cooking for two or more, the MSR Base 2 Set is an option. It includes 1.5 L (1.6 qt) and 2.5 L (2.6 qt) pots that nest inside each other, a lid, and a detachable pot-holder.

PROS: For what’s included, the weight isn’t too bad — about 1 lb (481 g) for everything. The coating on the pots prevents sticking of food, making cleaning easier. The detachable handle doesn’t get hot the way an attached handle does.

CONS: Aluminum isn’t as light as titanium and it’s also less durable — the pots tend to get bent out of shape. They also scratch easily; the coating doesn’t stand-up over the long-term. It’s way too heavy if you’re cooking just for yourself.

OUR RECOMMENDATION: If you’re eating on your own, the Evernew Titanium Pasta Pot narrowly beats out the MSR Titan. If you’re cooking for a small group, the MSR Base 2 Set is the best choice.

Adventures >> Gear Recommendations >> Cookware

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Water Bottles

Gear Advice: Water Bottles for Pohnpei

Nalgene Classic Hard-Sided Water Bottle

Hard-Sided Bottles

Hard-sided plastic bottles made by companies like Nalgene are a common choice among backpackers.

PROS: They don’t leak in your bag or crack when dropped (at least the stalwart classic model).

CONS: They’re heavy and bulky, and an empty bottle will take up just as much space in your pack as a full one. This is a problem when you’re doing longer hikes, where every bit of your backpack real estate is precious, or when covering very rough terrain, when you want your load as light as possible.

Platypus Collapsible Water Bottles

Collapsible Bottles

An alternative to hard bottles are soft-sided bottles, like those sold by Platypus. These are essentially the modern version of the water skin. They have small openings to prevent the water from spewing out when handled.

PROS: They’re light and can compress to next to nothing when empty.

CONS: They can rip or puncture, and they aren’t as easy to refill as hard-sided bottles because of the small mouths.

Camelbak Hydration Bladder

Hydration Bladders / Reservoirs

A third choice for water storage is a hydration bladder or reservoir. This is essentially a large, plastic water sack with a drinking tube and valve at one end. Bladders usually go with a canvass or nylon pouch or backpack-style carrier. Many good companies make them, including Camelbak, Platypus, MSR, Nalgene, and Osprey.

PROS: There are several really strong points to using bladders. They allow you to distribute the weight of the water you’re carrying evenly across your back, and they are lighter than hard-sided bottles. The bladders are designed to lay flat, and because they are soft-sided, you’ll never have to worry about the corner of a bottle sticking into your ribs or scapula as you hike. You can find backpacks with an outside pocket specifically designed to hold the reservoir. The reservoir doesn’t need to be removed from your pack in order to drink, because the drinking tube is always hanging over your shoulder. In fact, you don’t even need to stop hiking; you can just grab the valve with your mouth and bite down on it to drink as you chug along. Almost all bladders have a large screw-top opening, which makes filling them easier.

CONS: Reservoirs are designed to carry all your water, so they tend to be much bigger than soft-sided bottles, and as you drink the water, what’s left sloshes around a lot until you stop to refill. Marginally annoying. They are also heavier than soft-sided bottles, mainly due to the drinking tube. Like soft-sided bottles, bladders can be punctured or torn and are also prone to leaks at the seams. Filling them completely can be a challenge if you’re dealing with a stream or waterfall; you’ll need someone to hold the bladder up in the air and then either pour or pump water into it (you can’t fill it while the thing is lying on the ground). The bite valves get chewed up over time and don’t work as well anymore. They can also clog easily if there’s any sediment in your water. Perhaps the biggest drawback is keeping bladders clean. They don’t dry easily inside and are prone to bacterial and fungal growth; it is necessary to regularly flush them with vinegar, baking soda, or bleach. Sometimes the water can taste a bit funky compared to other types of water storage — probably due to the previous point. Finally, bladders are the most expensive option for water storage.

For an in-depth review of the top 10 hydration bladder models on the market, check out this article at SealGrinderPT.

OUR RECOMMENDATION: Hard-sided bottles are fine for half-day hikes, but soft-sided, collapsible bottles are more practical for longer treks when weight and efficient use of pack-space are crucial. Bladders have some definite advantages for shorter hikes, but also score below soft-sided bottles in terms of practicality for multi-treks in challenging terrain.

Adventures >> Gear Recommendations >> Water Bottles

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Shelters

Gear Advice: Shelters

Tents

Sierra Designs One-Man TentWeekend hikers usually think of tents as the definitive backpacking shelter, but they actually have many drawbacks. One tent model is available for purchase on Pohnpei, but it’s so heavy you’d never want to hike anywhere with it much less Pohnpei’s rugged mountains and rainforest. Those set on using a tent should bring one from home. Sierra Designs is a good brand.

PROS: Tents are easy to set up on any patch of relatively flat ground and don’t require trees. They protect sleepers against wind and blowing rain. They keep the bugs out.

CONS: They’re very heavy and bulky. Even the most well-ventilated models don’t provide enough airflow to be comfortable in Pohnpei’s extremely warm, humid climate, soaking the occupants in sweat and the condensation from their breath. They require a groundsheet as insulation, which is added weight in your pack. The typically nylon rainflies won’t be able to stand up to Pohnpei’s torrential rains for very long. The poles sometimes break. Finally, good tents are really expensive — $500+ is not unusual.

Tarp Systems

The “big blue tarp” that is widely sold on Pohnpei is terrible for hiking — bulky, very heavy, and difficult to hang without a lot of conveniently located trees and skeins of heavy rope. There are, however, tarps that are well-designed for trekking. The best are made by Mountain Laurel Designs.MLD Cuben Fiber Grace Tarp

For a single sleeper, the 2.1 x 1.5 x 2.7 meter (7 x 5 x 9 ft) Cuben Fiber Grace is a good choice. It only weighs 180 g (5.9 oz), the ridgeline is bonded and taped, and there are 8 tie-outs. The tarp can be hung as an A-frame with a ridgeline or pitched like a tent with trekking poles as the vertical supports. Cuben Fiber can stand up to a solid night of heavy rain without issue.

MLD Hammock Hexagon TarpFor a pair of sleepers, the Cuben Fiber Grace has a larger 2.6 x 2.1 x 2.8 meter (8.5 x 7 x 9.2 ft) version that weighs 225 g (7.8 oz). Also, a larger, heavier option is the 3.2 x 2.6 meter (10.5 x 8.5 ft) Hammock Hexagon Tarp, which weighs 241 g (8.5 oz). It also has a bonded and taped ridgeline seam, but only 6 tie-outs. Though it is designed to hang above a hammock, it can also be pitched A-frame tent style with trekking poles.

PROS: These tarps are super light and pack small, can handle Pohnpei’s regular torrents, and provide plenty of durability. Unlike tents, they allow plenty of airflow, making sleeping more comfortable.

CONS: They’re super expensive — $285-300. They take some experience to hang properly and can be frustrating if you don’t know what you’re doing. If you’re pitching tent-style, you’ll need trekking poles or something else to use as vertical supports.

OUR RECOMMENDATION: The benefits of tarps far out-weigh those of tents when trekking on Pohnpei. Both the MLD Grace and Hammock Hexagon models are great choices that will perform well in island conditions.

How-To Videos

How to Hang a Ridgeline

How to Tie a Cow Hitch Knot

How to Use a Sleeping Hammock

Adventures >> Gear Recommendations >> Shelters

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Electricity

Plug Types

Voltage & Plug Type

The FSM uses a 110-volt power system and dual flat pin outlets (grounded or ungrounded) like the United States and Japan. No transformers or plug adapters are available on the island, so visitors coming from anywhere other than the U.S. and Japan are advised to bring their own.

Power Service

Pohnpei’s electricity comes from the Pohnpei Utility Company (PUC), a strange public-private entity that has proven itself to be wholly inept at providing reliable power to the island’s residents. Though there has been talk of research into alternative sources of power, currently 100% of the electricity produced by PUC comes from diesel-burning generators, which regularly break down.

Cash Power

All electricity on the island is provided on a pre-paid basis through something called Cash Power. Residents and business owners purchase units of power from PUC, which then credits their meters. If you end up staying in a house, rather than a hotel room, you’ll have to buy your own cash power. Cash power can be purchased at the PUC cash power drive-thru located across from the road from Lit Palm (bring your meter number or know the name under which the meter is registered). Cash power can also be purchased online through PUC’s website (click here to go straight to the online payment page). You can also buy cash power cards in $5 denominations at most stores around Kolonia. PRD Drive-Thru on Main Street is a good place to go for late-night purchases.

The Basics >> Electricity

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Getting Around

Rental Car Companies

Some of the hotels on Pohnpei have small car rental services for guests (7 Stars Inn, Ocean View Plaza Hotel (West Wing), Island Palms Hotel, Seabreeze, Yvonne’s Hotel). The important word here is small. Expect a very limited selection of vehicles with moderate up-keep. There is also a growing number of companies that specialize in car rental. For rental rates use contact info listed under each rental company.

G & J Car Rental

G & J offers SUVs, flatbeds (regular size), and flatbed mini-trucks.

H & E Car Rental

H & E offers pick-ups and flatbeds (regular size).

  • +691.320.2413
  • 8AM-5PM (Mon-Sat)

Kaselehlie Car Rental

Kaselehlie offers Sedans, SUVs, pick-up trucks , vans, flatbeds (regular size).

  • +691.320.4555
  • 9AM-3PM(Mon-Sat)

Paradise Car Rental

Paradise offers SUVs for rent. They are open 24/7.

  • +691.320.7978 / 7049
  • Open 24/7

Sunset View Car Rental

Sunset View Car Rental offers Sedans, SUVs, and Flatbeds for rent. They even have a website where you can make a reservation.

Rules of the Road

The rules are not all that different from any developed country. The reality is another matter; enforcement is minimal. There is no driver education, and many people begin operating vehicles without having taken tests of any kind. The concept of right-of-way is poorly understood, and passing frequently occurs where it is unsafe. Driving under the influence of alcohol and/or sakau (kava) is rampant, especially at night on the weekends. Though speed limits are usually not more than 24 kph (15 mph) around most of the island, a lot of people drive twice or three times that fast (especially taxis) and zip around the blind turns without care. Most of the Circle Island Road is paved now, but that doesn’t mean it’s in good condition everywhere; potholes are a fact of life and rain is ever-present. Additionally, while people drive on the right side of the road in the FSM, the majority of the cars on Pohnpei are second-hand imports from Japan with steering wheels on the left. Drivers in these vehicles have limited visibility, increasing the odds of accidents.

All this is simply to say that one must drive defensively and make no assumptions about what other drivers will or will not do. Drive slow and be aware at all times for children or animals running into the road.

Taxi Service

Taxi services on Pohnpei are as numerous as raindrops. New ones are constantly appearing while others vanish. All companies operate on a flat-fare basis and only accept cash. Because local taxis don’t use meters, and the fare isn’t directly proportional to the distance, Pohnpei’s taxi drivers have to hustle to make any money by the end of the day. They tend to drive very fast and very recklessly, and you can expect them to stop many times before they get to your destination in an effort to cram as many additional passengers as possible into their vehicle. Some of the drivers are super sweet. Others are, without a doubt, deranged. Also, don’t be surprised if your driver isn’t wearing a shirt or if he periodically opens the door, while speeding along, to spit his betel nut juice on the roadway. Seriously.

Taxis can be requested by phone or waved down on the road. If doing the former, we recommend that you have someone at your hotel do the calling. The taxi company dispatchers are often difficult for foreigners to communicate with and are more likely to get the correct information (and send a taxi faster) if a local person speaks with them. Also good idea would be to ask a local person how much the fare should roughly be so that the taxi driver does not try to hustle extra money from you.

Taxis can take you anywhere, but they’re definitely not tour guides.

Bicycling Around

If you can get your hands on a good mountain bike, exploring on two wheels is not a bad option. There are, however, a number of things to consider. For details, visit our page on Biking.

Walking

Outside of town, it’s normal to see local people walking along the road from place to place, but they don’t do it because they want to, and most Pohnpeians are baffled when they encounter a foreigner who chooses to walk when other options are available. Never the less, the island is not a bad place for pedestrians. You just have to be doubly conscious of traffic on the roads, accept that the Western concept of “right-of-way” means next to nothing to most people, be wary of dogs, and always be prepared for torrential rains. Kolonia has sidewalks along most of its major streets, but they are in bad condition and are often very slippery. Watch for holes and loose concrete slabs unless you want to end up hurting yourself or falling in a stream of sewer water.

Hiring Boats

The easiest way to hire a boat for a group is to approach an operator like Pohnpei Surf Club. Tour operators usually have boats going out with groups, for more affordable rates it’s better to book in groups and split the cost rather than booking trips by yourself.

The Basics >> Getting Around

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Money Matters

Currency

The FSM uses the U.S. dollar ($US) exclusively, and the two local banks on the island — Bank of Guam and Bank of FSM — do not handle foreign currency at all. Thus, any currency brought to Pohnpei that is not U.S. dollars will be useless for the duration of the trip.

Traveler’s Checks: Don’t Bother

Traveler’s checks, though perhaps useful for throwing at people in the process of trying to rob you (we can’t say we’ve personally experienced this), are mostly useless pieces of paper on Pohnpei. Virtually no one, including the banks, will cash them.

Credit & Debit Cards

Theoretically, if your debit card carries the VISA logo, it should work in all four ATMs on Pohnpei (two at the Bank of Guam branch in Nett, one inside FSM Telecom, and one at the Bank of FSM branch across from Palm Terrace Store. However, things don’t always go smoothly. Make sure you notify your bank prior to leaving on your trip and let them know where you will be using the card to prevent holds. ATMs occasionally go down, too, though not usually all of them at the same time. It’s best to have a little extra cash on hand at all times in case something unforeseen occurs.

Major credit cards (VISA / Mastercard) are accepted at the large stores. Smaller businesses take cash only. Expecting private vendors to have something like Square to swipe your card? Forget about it. Pohnpei is light-years behind when it comes to technology and — we’re going to say this over and over — that’s part of its charm . . . at least for visitors.

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Drinking Water

On Tap

The Pohnpei Utility Company (PUC) provides the tap water in town, which comes from the Nanipil River dam at the foot of the mountains south of Kolonia. The tap water is filtered and chlorinated, supposedly rendering it safe to drink, but it often turns muddy after heavy rains when sediment washes into the rivers upstream. Travelers would be wise to stick to purified water. Luckily, Pohnpei has multiple great companies that provide just that at very affordable prices.

Pohnpei Water Company

Pohnpei Water Company (PWC) is located just beyond Panuelo’s Service Station and produces purified drinking water using an industrial filtering system. They sell 5-gallon jugs; washing and refill costs are very reasonable. They’ll deliver for a small fee.

  • 8AM-5:30PM (Mon-Sat)
  • +691.320.2601

Drops of Life

Drops of Life is another water supplier based at the PAMI Building below the Japanese Embassy. Like PWC, they use an industrial purifier and sell water in 5-gallon jugs, they also deliver for a small fee.

  • 8AM-7PM (Mon-Sat); 1-6PM (Sun)
  • +691.320.8719

Rain Water

A water company located at Hideout on the southwestern end of the Dolonier loop, across from the Pics Track and Field. They too use an industrial purifier and produce bottles of water by the cases. Cases come in two types: 500 ml bottles and 1L bottles. They also do refills for 5 gallon water jugs or any other water containers.

  • 8AM-5PM (Mon-Sat)
  • +691.320.2186 / +691.920.7412 (Mobile number only for orders outside of business hours.)

Island Spring Water Company

Island Spring Water Company is a subsidiary of the INS conglomerate run by the Nakasone family. It is located along Nantuelek Road, across the street from the Mid-Town Tire Shop and behind Nihco Store (Mabushi). Like the other water companies they sell 5 gallon jugs which can be refilled and do deliveries. They also sell bottled water in 500ml and 1 L packs. You can find their bottles in many small stores.

The Basics >> Guides & Water

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An Introduction to Pohnpei

Pohnpei, the Ultimate Adventurer’s Paradise

title=Imagine an island that still retains its wildness — a place of rugged, breathtaking beauty, vibrant traditional culture, unpaved remoteness, and mystery. Imagine a landscape so green that it threatens to burn a hole in your retina. Picture being the only snorkeler on a pristine reef, surfing one of the world’s most celebrated waves, diving in a place most divers have never dreamed of, climbing misting mountain peaks, exploring a prehistoric megalithic city, or trekking through lush rainforests. This, in a nutshell, is Pohnpei.

But, Where the Heck is It?

The short answer? 4,828 kilometers (3,000 miles) southwest of Hawaii and 3,700 kilometers (2,300 miles) northeast of Australia. Pohnpei is the largest and highest island in the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM), a far-flung oceanic nation with some 600 islands spread across a vast section of the western Pacific between Hawaii and the U.S. Territory of Guam. The FSM is one of the most culturally diverse areas in the Pacific with more than twenty distinct groups and as many unique languages. The country is divided into four states (from east to west) — Kosrae, Pohnpei, Chuuk, and Yap. The capital of the FSM is located at Palikir on the west side of Pohnpei Island. In addition to the main island, Pohnpei State also includes four inhabited Micronesian atolls, two distant Polynesian outliers, two uninhabited atolls, and a submerged atoll.

They Don’t Call It the Garden Isle for Nothing

Roughly 22.5 kilometers (14 miles) in diameter, Pohnpei Island is the peak of a 5 million-year-old extinct shield volcano that has subsided over its lifetime. Some say it bears a resemblance to Bora Bora minus the unchecked development. Others liken it to something out of a Robert Louis Stevenson novel. Both would be correct. The place is rugged and brilliant green with a dense rainforested interior and mountains as high as 780 meters (2,600 feet). With 825 centimeters (325 inches) of rain a year in the interior, Pohnpei ranks as the seventh rainiest location on Earth. All that water adds up to more than 40 watercourses, scores of scenic waterfalls, and some of the largest areas of intact upland rainforest in the Pacific.

Pohnpei offers divers and snorkelers a mostly unexplored marine wonderland

A Marine Wonderland

Pohnpei’s coasts are entirely encircled by shadowy mangrove forests that are more than 3 kilometers (2 miles) wide in places and provide a maze of narrow, tunnel-like channels for kayaking, canoeing, or stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) enthusiasts. This environment is a serene domain of birds and other creatures. A half to one and a half kilometers further out, a barrier reef curves around 70% of the island, forming a large, placid lagoon with passages going out into the open ocean — prime spots for surfing, snorkeling, and SCUBA diving. Small volcanic islands are scattered about within the lagoon and coralline islands with sandy beaches perch along the reef itself, calling to campers and beach-bums.

In short, there’s a little bit here for everyone . . .

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Western Kitti GPS Data

Downloadable GPS Data Files

The following files contain all the packaged GPS data for each of the featured locations in the Western Kitti Eco-Adventure Map Guide.

Three file types are provided. KMZ and KML files are compatible with Google Earth. KML is compatible with Google Maps. GPX files can be imported into ArcGIS (a professional mapping application) and some hand-held GPS devices.

NOTE: All files are free to the public and can be used for any purpose without permission.

Dolen Uh Hike & Pilen Seleur Eel Pools (2015)

Sahwartik & Sahwarlap Waterfalls Hike (2015)

Six Waterfalls Hike (2015)

Coordinates

The following coordinates correspond with sites featured on the Western Kitti Eco-Adventure Map Guide. It is our dream to eventually create a Pohnpei GPS app that could be uploaded to smartphones and other devices, but for now, these points of interest can be entered manually in a hand-held GPS device as needed.

NOTE: All GPS devices have a margin of error. That margin increases with interference — when there is a thick canopy of trees, during bad weather, or when mountains obstruct the satellite link. The geosynchronous satellites employed when navigating on Pohnpei are located low on the southwestern horizon, such that maintaining a strong connection while hiking on the northeast side of a given mountain range can be difficult. Coordinates on the northeastern slopes of mountains are less accurate than in other locations.

Coordinates are not yet available for this area. We’re working to get them on-line ASAP. Please check back soon!

Downloads >> GPS Central >> Western Kitti GPS Data

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