Tag: trails
Rohi Waterfall
Rohi, the first district in Kitti after passing over the border from Madolenihmw, is host to an obscure, but beautiful, waterfall that few people — other than those who live practically at its feet and some Peace Corps volunteers stationed in the neighborhood — seem to know about. The high, sometimes wispy, falls plummets over a sheer wall hung with ferns and other climbing plants and is reminiscent of Sahwartik in Salapwuk, but with a much smaller and shallower pool and less volume overall. It’s unclear whether it has an official name; local residents mostly call it the “Rohi Waterfall” after the district within which it lies or “Nan Rohi Waterfall” after the name of the river.
To reach it, it’s best to park near the turn-off from the Circle Island Road, walk up the steep gravel secondary road, and continue to the houses at the end (bear left at the one major branch). Along the way is a stunning stand of huge hardwoods that are well-worth a good look. Once you reach the houses, you’ll want to ask permission to proceed, as the footpath crosses through several families’ front yards. The residents in the area, however, are welcoming and will likely be happy to show you to the falls or at the very least point you in the right direction. Once the path reaches the watercourse, the waterfall is evident just a bit upstream and one has merely to scramble along the rocky bank to the pool. The water is very clean and cool, and the spot is excellent for a short swim.
No fees are charged for this hike.
- Plan for 1 hour round-trip with some swimming time at the falls.
Nanpohnmweli Waterfall
Though you can reach the top of Nanpohnmweli from Mand, the best way to access this falls (also known as “Kerenis” Waterfall) is from the Circle Island Road in Sapwehrek Kousapw. The walk begins at Benford Etse’s residence immediately south of the bridge and the sign for the Senipehn River Reserve and takes less than 10 minutes each way, following a well-trodden path that the family uses for planting sakau.
It’s hard not to be impressed by the place, even if you’ve already seen many of Pohnpei’s waterfalls. Like Kepirohi, the water tumbles over a gently sloping basalt wall rather than falling straight down over a cliff, but this falls is narrower.
Unfortunately, testing in April 2013 indicated that this site had 2.5 times more E. coli than is considered safe for swimming, so you’ll want to stay out of the water.
The Etse family doesn’t charge an access fee to visit the falls, but since you’ll need someone to show you the way through their property, offer $5.00.
- Plan for 45 minutes round-trip with some time to admire the view of the falls.
The Rock of Silehu
Southern Kitti’s most obvious natural feature is the Rock of Silehu — a spire of basalt rock that stabs out from the hills above Nintok. Because of its phallic shape, some have jokingly referred to the rock as the “giant’s penis,” but there is little to suggest that the idea has any basis in Pohnpei’s traditional myths, and it is more likely a transplant inspired by Kosrae’s well-known “Sleeping Lady.”
The local area has garnered some fame through its association with Luelen Bernart, the first Pohnpeian to ever pen a history of the island and probably the first Micronesian to write a book of any kind. It was a revolutionary endeavor. Pohnpei had a long tradition of story-telling and transmission of traditional knowledge through oral means, but writing things down was wholly new. Furthermore, it was believed on Pohnpei — and still is today — that a person should not share all that he knows on any subject. Bernart, born in Wene, Kitti, but educated in the same Protestant mission school as Henry Nanpei (they were close friends and his wife and Nanpei’s wife were sisters), was possibly inspired by the Western ideas he absorbed there and his exposure to the Bible, whose style and structure is similar to his writings. Bernart came from the noble class. Over his life, he acquired the title Dauk — the third-highest title on the Nahnken (talking chief) line — and became well-respected in the ceremonial arena as an orator and story-teller. This experience, combined with the skills he acquired in school, gave Bernart what he needed to tackle such a singular task. In the 1930s he began composing what would become The Book of Luelen — a sprawling collection of myths and legends, songs, chants, magical spells, plant-lore, and modern history. Though Bernart died before he could edit the work, his daughter and her husband labored to complete the manuscript, which was eventually translated and published in the 1970s. Bernart was buried in Rehntu.
The Story of Lihser
As far as oral history is concerned, Silehu is connected to a story that began in the Awak Valley of U. A spirit called Lihser dug up the ground and buried two boys in the earth at Awak. Scooping up the lumps of earth in which the boys were buried, he threw them to Silehu. The body of one boy, named Kier, formed the Peisarap hills where it fell. The spirit then built an altar called Pein Maram (“altar of the moon”) to honor the spot where the other fell. Later, the spirit met a hermit crab with a human skull for a shell. Upon searching the area, Lihser found the bones of a man. He took the bones and the crab and buried the skull-shell at a place he named Nintok. The rest of the bones were buried at another location called Antak.
Interestingly, one ethnographer reported that people from Nintok are prone to a “peculiar form of craziness” and erratic behavior that intensifies on full moons.
If you have a tough, high-clearance vehicle, you can begin your hike at the Esiel house at the end of an unpaved road that leads north from the Circle Island Road. Otherwise, it’s best to park down by the CIR and walk up, as the upper portion of the road is rough and has a grade of at least 19%. This segment is moderately difficult on foot, but treacherous by car. The hike from the house is short but steep (about 30% slope average), following a narrow footpath that the family uses regularly. The final part of the ascent is very steep and scrubby. No technical climbing is involved to reach the tiny, exposed summit, but there are some sections that might be uncomfortable for people afraid of heights. From the top, unobstructed views extend in all directions. Prominent sights include Dolotomw, Mwudok Harbor, Mwudok Island, and Nipai Rock.
- Plan for 2 hours for this hike. For guides, ask for Wainer, Raynard, or Treveyne and offer $10.00, or call +691.320.5059 ahead of time to make arrangements.
Mand Area Attractions
Mand is a little community of Pingelapese people who were given a parcel of land by the Nahnmwarki of Madolenihmw in Pohnpei’s modern past. You can’t call it a town, but it feels more connected than many of the island’s Pohnpeian communities. In addition to the Pingelapese who live in Mand Proper, there’s a small village to the north inhabited by Kapingamarangi islanders, who settled in the area very recently (Kapingamarangi is a distant atoll that is culturally and linguistically Polynesian but politically a part of Pohnpei State). The center of Mand consists of the elementary school and church. Next to the church is a monument which lists the names of the first settlers from Pingelap Atoll — the founding members of the community.
Kokomaru Waterfall
Most local people outside of Mand have never heard of Kokomaru, which is strange, because it is a gorgeous spot and worth visiting. The route to the waterfall, which lies just downstream from the Mand community, begins at the end of an unpaved road next to the Latter-Day Saints (LDS) Church, passes through a plot of private land, and then cuts through the forest to the river. The trail tends to be overgrown, as the falls is rarely visited except by an odd kid or two from the community. Once at the riverbed, you can get a good look at the waterfall, which is similar visually to Liduduhniap. Some of the kids in the area will tell you that the rock behind the falls looks like a heart from certain angles (we didn’t see it). The cliff on the south side of the waterfall pool is the nesting site for a huge colony of Caroline Islands swiftlets which seem to fill the air when they leave their nests.
Despite Kokomaru’s charms, you can’t swim here — riverside pig pens in Mand have severely contaminated the stream. Testing in April 2013 indicated that the water below Piladad had five times more E. coli than is considered safe for swimming. Don’t be fooled by the clarity of the stream; this is sadly in the top ten most polluted watercourses on Pohnpei Island. Even the Mand kids don’t swim there.
- Plan for 45 minutes round-trip for this excursion.
Piladad Pool
There is only one place you can safely swim in the Mand area and that’s at a sweet little pond known as Piladad, which lies up-stream from the last inhabited house and pigpen. The pool, which was once a gauging station for the watershed (the gauge apparatus is still there), is large and pristine with enough depth in the middle for the fun rope swing that dangles from an overhanging tree. There are also two small waterfalls. Piladad is a great place to go on hot days; the spot is close to the feet of the mountains and the water tends to be quite chilly. This also means there’s some potential for flash floods, so it would be wise to avoid the spot when rain clouds lie over the mountains. A narrow, but well-used, 0.4 km footpath to the pool begins on the south bank of the river next to Mand Elementary School. At the one branch in the path, bear toward the river.
Almost any kid you see in the area can guide you to either location. Offer $10 for a group of five or less.
- The hike takes about 10 minutes each way.
Nanpohnmweli (“Kerenis”) Waterfall
This very tall waterfall on the Sapwehrek stream can be reached by following the unpaved road 1.24 km (0.77 mi) north and east from Mand through a tidy Kapingamarangi settlement to the next stream over. The problem with visiting the falls from this access point, however, is that you end up at the top, where you can’t really see much. The rocks are treacherously slippery and there’s a long — certainly fatal — fall for anyone who makes a mistake. A local girl was killed when she fell from this spot a few years back. The nickname of the waterfall is derived from the Kapingamarangi pronunciation of the English word “Greenwich”, which is what sailors called Kapingamarangi Atoll during the whaling period. To visit this waterfall from the bottom, visit the Nanpohnmweli Waterfall page.
- This walk takes 15-20 minutes each way.
Kepirohi Waterfall
Kepirohi, which lies on the lower Mand Stream (Pilen Mand) in Kepirohi Kousapw, is certainly Pohnpei’s most famous and most photographed waterfall and makes a nice picnic stop after a visit to the ruins of Nan Madol just a few minutes away. Here a large volume of water (the most of any waterfall on Pohnpei) cascades over a wide, sloped pyramid of basalt rock and fills a shallow pool before running down toward the coast, giving the spot a singular look. A well-maintained — and in places rock-paved — path begins near Adalina Johnny’s residence and skirts the right side of the river to the falls. It’s an easy, level walk. Unfortunately, the landowners decided a few years back to construct an unsightly concrete viewing platform just to one side of the falls, detracting considerably from the aesthetic and natural appeal of the location.
There’s an old, weather-worn sign out on the Circle Island Road that marks the turn-off and limited parking on either side of the landowner’s driveway.
Visitors can pay the admission fee ($3 per adult and $1.50 per child) at Johnny’s house on the right or at the small store near the trailhead. No guide is needed for this hike.
- Plan for 1 hour for this hike.
As is true of many of the streams in this part of Madolenihmw, the water at Kepirohi is highly polluted by animal waste; visitors are advised not to swim.
Wou Kutoahr
Today, the name Wou Kutoahr is used to refer to a large area of upland fern meadows, palm forests, giant tree fern stands, and denser hardwood forests, though it actually means “kingfisher valley” and originally referenced a specific feature nearby. There’s a little bit of everything here for hikers and birders. Most of the birding is to be had in the forests below the Nan Peienlam meadow. All of the common species can be seen, as well as rarer birds like the Micronesian pigeon, ground dove, crimson-crowned fruit dove, and long-billed white-eye. There are also some interesting species of plants to be found in the same spots, including native mace (Myristica fragrans), which produces walnut-sized seeds covered by a rubbery bright-red skin. These trees were introduced from Sulawesi by the Japanese in the 1920s. Pohnpei’s endemic palm, called kotop, is common around the fringes of the meadows and on some of the nearby slopes.
You can begin your hike wherever necessary along the unpaved road leading up from the FSM-Chinese Pilot Farm near the Circle Island Road, though most vehicles will need to park further down due to the extremely poor condition of the track. Wherever you start, follow the road up until it narrows to a footpath. This path climbs gradually with an 9-10% slope and to the first savannah. If you walk out among the ferns to the south, you can get some decent views on a clear day. The path continues to climb at the same rate from there, passing into a section of forest dominated by giant tree ferns and beautiful hardwoods. This the key place for birders. In the middle of the forest segment, the trail levels off to about a 4% slope, eventually leaves the forest, and arrives at the second set of fern meadows. A knoll to the south offers excellent views of the lower forests and ocean. Other trails continue 0.74 km from Nan Peienlam to Dolekole (363 m) and 0.67 km to the Mese Stream (Pilen Mese) from the middle of the forested section.
Camping
The kotop (Clinostigma ponapensis) stand on the edge of the upper meadow is a wonderful place to camp with amazing scenery all around and some protection from wind. The nearest fresh water is at Pilen Mese (purify or filter it) about 1.2 km north. Leave the area exactly as you found it and pack out everything you brought in.
No fees are charged for this hike. You can do this hike without a guide.
- Plan for 4 hours round-trip for this hike.
Dolopwuropwur Gun Battery
The most extensive Japanese gun battery on Pohnpei lies on Temwen’s rounded central hill, Nindol, perched at its 60 meter peak, Dolopwuropwur.
Gun Stations
The four guns at the summit are identical to the one on Sokehs Mountain — British-made 15 cm Armstrong Whitworth naval canons manufactured in 1905. The guns are arranged in pairs with a concrete ammunition magazine between each set of stations. The semi-circular emplacements are constructed of concrete and local stone. There are also stone retaining walls along the corridors that lead to the stations. Steel girders running over Stations 1 and 4 are evidence that these two guns, at the very least, were covered to make them difficult to identify from the air. All of the stations are in relatively good condition, though the embankment around Station 3 has slipped down and partially buried the walls. Guns 1 and 4 point north and southeast, respectively, while Guns 2 and 3 point northeast. In combination, they would have had firing coverage of around 250 degrees. At the time of operation the hill was probably relatively clear of trees, providing an unobstructed view of the area islands and the two possible points of entry into the lagoon at Kepidauen Deleur and Kepidauen Nahkapw.
Stone Tower
West of Station 4 is a stone tower (possibly a look-out for targeting or even a searchlight emplacement). Presumably, the tower was crowned with a platform of wood or metal, but that is no longer present. Now a flight of twenty-odd steps lead to the edge of a gaping hole as deep as the tower is high. We didn’t find a searchlight, but it may lie hidden somewhere in the surrounding area.
Trench Network
A narrow 0.27 km-long (0.17 mi) trench begins at the tower base and meanders down the hill with short deviations going to a dug-out under the tower itself and a magazine-like structure built into the hillside and currently occupied by a colony of small insectivorous bats. The latter is almost large enough to park a jeep inside, but there’s no evidence of a road leading to it. It was probably additional storage for munitions. It’s possible to climb down into the trench and follow it until it connects with one of the well-trodden footpaths in the Temwen interior.
The 0.3 km (0.19 mi) trail to the battery begins not far from the end of a muddy residential road opposite Temwen Elementary School and can be easily followed without a guide.
The family at the last house on the road charges $3.00 per person to visit Dolopwuropwur.
- Plan for 1-2 hours to fully explore the area and 1 hour (each way) for the drive.
Nankepinmerepw River Valley
This route passes through the gorgeous valley of Nankepinmerepw, following the upper tributaries of the Nan Riohk Stream (Pilen Nan Riohk) and eventually arriving north of Nahnalaud on an arm of the major mountain system. One guide stated that the valley’s name refers to the mworopw tree (Inocarpus fagifer), also known as the Polynesian chestnut — though the spelling is clearly different. Nankepin means “in the bottom of”; the mworopw leaf has a deep trough in the middle where the primary vein bisects the blade, mirroring the way the stream bisects the deep, narrow valley.
The hike begins at a rutted turn-off from the well-graded (but unpaved) road to Pahn Sile Waterfall, leads to a metal footbridge over the Senipehn River (Pillapen Senipehn) — the only bridge like it on the island — and connects with a path on the far side. From there, the trail meanders northwest not far from the Nan Riohk and more or less parallel to it.
The first kilometer or so cuts through cultivated lands. Then it begins to follow the water more closely as it passes into the wilder riverine forests. There are at least nine major stream crossings in this next segment, some of which may be difficult or impossible if there has been a lot of recent rain. Above the last major Nan Riohk tributary, where the name of the stream changes to Nankepinmerepw, hikers take to the stream bed itself, which is certainly the most challenging aspect of the route (13% slope average). The algae-slimed rocks are slick and dangerous and hikers may find that they have to go very slow and use both hands to avoid disastrous slips; it would be easy to snap an ankle or shatter a kneecap in this place. Despite the rough terrain, the scenery in the hidden valley, often fenced on both sides by high rocky walls, is terrific. At times, the trail passes along the tops of vertical prismatic basalt columns.
The first few points of interest are beautiful pools that will tempt any overheated hiker — and why resist? A bit further is a small waterfall near an outcropping of prismatic basalt. Informants in the area say that this location was one of many where prismatic basalt columns were quarried for use in the building of Nan Madol. Abandoned prisms can be found lying in the stream bed in several places — the largest just below the falls. How exactly the massive prisms were hauled down to the coast over such distances and through such rough terrain is anyone’s guess.
After a short, steep section (22% slope average), the valley terminates at a huge “horsetail” waterfall that the route crosses above (you can scramble down the eastern slope without too much difficulty for a better view from the side). The shallow pools above the falls are an excellent place for a look at Pohnpei’s native crayfish. This is the turn-around point for day-hikers.
Past the big waterfall, the stream narrows until it reaches a third waterfall — this one short and wide, falling over a straight lip (usually called a “block falls” or “sheet falls”) — and then diminishes to a trickle. Those who wish to go further, will climb to the west (29% slope average) and then south again to follow the ridgeline (18% slope average) toward Nahnalaud.
- Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nankepinmerepw.
Madolenihmw Bay Area
Dauen Sapwalap / Senipehn Mangrove Reserve
- Visit the Paddling Around Madolenihmw page for a detailed description of this location and the adventures to be had in the area.
- Entering the mangrove reserve requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
Kamau Pwoungapwoung
Though we didn’t map the hike to this destination as part of the eco-adventure map series (for lack of time), it would, never the less, be an exciting adventure to consider. Kamau Pwoungapwoung refers to a freshwater pool and waterfall at the headwaters of the Dipwilap Stream (Pilen Dipwilap), one of the tributaries of the Senipehn River (Pillapen Senipehn). The place is significant as the location where the last battle between the Saudeleur‘s warriors and Isokelekel’s men was fought. Upon being defeated by Isokelekel, the Saudeleur transformed himself into a small blue fish, that inhabits the pool to this day, and leaped into the waterfall. The hike would be a long one from the area around Pahn Sile. The closest access point would probably be from the direction of Nihpit fern meadow (reached from eastern Kitti).
- The absolute best choice for a guide is Relio Lengsi. Give him a call at +691.924.2580 and discuss the best route options and access points for this location. Offer $50.00 for a full-day hike.
Nanpahlap Peak
The 137 m (449 ft) hill to the east of Takaiuh looks as if its top has been lopped off — which fits in with the story about its creation (see Takaiuh below). Though steep in places and somewhat overgrown, the ascent isn’t too strenuous. At the summit are the tumbled ruins of a prehistoric stone structure and a breath-taking view. The whole area around the southern foot of the hill is criss-crossed with Japanese trenches and dotted with tunnels, including at least one very long one leading into the hill. The grid of paddies and irrigation canals where the Japanese successfully cultivated rice (despite Pohnpei’s challenging climate conditions) are found on both sides of the unpaved access road, though you can get closest to the bulk of these fields from another road to the west.
Everything is private land, but no official access fees are charged.
- To hire a guide, ask at the houses in the area or contact Hanke Albert at +691.320.4047. Offer $25.00 for Nanpahlap or a half-day of exploration in the area.
Nanwap Marine Protected Area (MPA)
Nanwap Marine Protected Area is a 3.05 km2 (305 hectare) section of the barrier reef and adjacent lagoon areas on the north side of Kepidauen Deleur (passage). The sanctuary was founded by community members from Metipw and Lukop and their respective chiefs and gained legal status in 2010. It became the first of Pohnpei’s MPAs to have its own formal community-created management plan with the support of the Pohnpei MPA Executive Management Network and the state offices of the Department of Land and Natural Resources, Division of Fish and Wildlife, Office of Fisheries and Aquaculture, and Environmental Protection Agency. Nanwap is a “no-take zone,” which means no fishing or gathering of any kind is allowed within the boundaries. It is regarded as the “most biologically diverse and best preserved spawning and aggregation site” for many of Pohnpei’s core reef fish species. Snorkelers should seek out the protected blue holes on the west side of the reef, while SCUBA divers will want to do a drift dive on the southern wall of the reef during an in-coming tide.
- Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
Pahn Dieinuh
- Visit the Paddling Around Madolenihmw page for a detailed description of this location.
Peiai
Peiai is a small populated place near the turn-off for Pahn Sile waterfall. During the battle between the warriors of Isokelekel and the army of the last Saudeleur, Peiai was the place where the tide of battle turned dramatically (hence, the name references a situation where the runner-up in a race pulls ahead of the leader — loosely translated “the battle is reversed”). Isokelekel’s men were being beaten down by the forces of Nan Madol when one of the conqueror’s greatest fighting men pinned his own foot to the ground with his spear, refusing to retreat and declaring that he would kill any man who tried to run away from the fight. Isokelekel’s men rallied behind this show of bravery and pushed back the Saudeleur‘s warriors, chasing them up the Senipehn River and eventually to Kamau Pwoungapwoung, a waterfall at the headwaters of the Dipwilap Stream, where the Saudeleur was finally defeated.
Sapwalap
Sapwalap (“large land”) is an expansive region of mostly flat ground that makes up a sizable chunk of central Madolenihmw. The Japanese recognized Sapwalap‘s potential as a site of large-scale agriculture. During the thirty years leading up to World War II, sugarcane was cultivated and processed at a facility near Kitamw (the tower is still partly visible in the jungle off the road) and rice was grown in a patchwork of paddies fed by irrigation canals. Strangely, no one is growing rice these days, but the paddies are still there opposite the gleaming LDS Church. Other fields are found as far east as Lukop.
Tahio
Tahio, on the south side of Nanpahlap, is another place where the Japanese were active. The access road was built by them and the coastal area is full of trenches, rifle pits, dugouts, and tunnels. Everything is overgrown, but anyone who pokes around will be rewarded with interesting finds. Bring a local resident along.
Takaiuh Peak
You can’t visit Madolenihmw without being arrested by the sight of Takaiuh, a 160 m (525 ft) peak shaped like a traffic cone that stands on the north side of the bay and seems to guard the entrance to the Sapwalap estuary. The mythical origin-story of the hill — which bears a striking resemblance to the Biblical tale of the tower of Babel — involves Mwohnmur and Sarapwau, two wily brothers who enter into many Pohnpeian legends (they also created the Sahwar Valley and the rock of Pohnpaip).
How Takaiuh Came to Be
Long ago, two boys named Mwohnmur and Sarapwau were born in Salapwuk (Kitti) to a woman named Lienlama. The boys were always involved in clever schemes and mischief and traveled far and wide doing great works. Once, the brothers took a piece of stone, and using it like a canoe, paddled to Pohndolen Imwinsapw near what is now Tahio in Madolenihmw. There, Mwohnmur and Sarapwau amused themselves by piling up rocks until they had formed a large hill. A local demi-god named Lapongo saw what they were doing and wasn’t pleased, so he threw a stone at their hill and destroyed it. He then challenged the brothers to a competition to see who could build a mountain the fastest. The three set to work, but it soon became apparent that the boys were winning. Their mountain was so tall it had reached the sky. Being a poor loser, Lapongo became enraged. He picked up a stone and threw it at the new mountain, which broke into six pieces. The base of the mountain that remained standing was named Takaiuh (“standing stone”).
This was not the end of the conflicts between the brothers and Lapongo, however. Lapongo mocked and ridiculed the boys whenever he could, and they did not like it. Now, the brothers liked to play at a place called Pahnlikes, below the spot where they had settled on Likes peak west of modern-day Sapwalap. There was a steep slope there that they would slide down for fun, sitting upon the leaf sheaths of the kotop palm (Clinostigma ponapensis). The boys knew that Lapongo had been watching them and was aware of their play place, so they decided to trick him. Lapongo was invited to slide down the slope with the boys, but they chose a spot where the slope ended at the waterside (possibly the southern tributary of Pilen Kitamw). All three began sliding down the hill. When Mwohnmur and Sarapwau reached the bottom, they leaped off their sheaths and dived to safety, but Lapongo went straight and fell into the water. He sank down into the depths, and the brothers threw rocks on top of him to keep him from resurfacing.
Takaiuh is actually an island separated from the coast by a strip of mangrove forest. It was once inhabited, but is no longer. Though the hill is climbable, the ascent is extremely dangerous, characterized by very steep slopes and cliffs prone to rockslides with little or nothing solid to hold on to. For this reason we strongly advise visitors to enjoy Takaiuh from below rather than trying for the summit. Hikers who insist on seeking the summit, do so at their own risk. Distant views of the peak are found along the Circle Island Road, but the best close-up view from land is from the old Japanese road in Kepine. According to residents living in the area, the Japanese abandoned an attempt to build a trail all the way to the top of the hill. Some of the low wall can still be seen on the lower slope.