world war sites – Page 2 – Pohnpei Eco-Adventure Guide

Timwen Men, Dolakapw & Pohn Tehnmei

North Madolenihmw Hikes

The northernmost section of Madolenihmw is separated from the rest of the municipality by a range of low mountains that run east-west from Mesihsou to Alohkapw. This range was fortified by the Japanese army during World War II because it was easily accessible and commanded excellent views of lands both to the north and the south. The hills are riddled with tunnels and man-made caves, and a ridge path runs from the east end and connects with the primary mountain system in the central part of the island. There was a time when Japanese soldiers could travel from Mesihsou all the way to Kupwuriso without ever leaving the mountains. Small 75-80 mm guns were also installed at hidden spots among the hills.

There are many potential hikes one could do in these interesting mountains, but we’ve chosen to focus on three routes leading to small peaks along the ridge: Timwen Men, Dolakapw, and Pohn Tehnmei. All three cross private land.

Timwen Men

The name of this small peak at the western end of the ridge means “beak of the bird,” a reference to the many brown noddies that can be seen flying around the summit. The hike begins at the houses near the end of the road, belonging to the extended family of Eiber Rosario, and passes through the family’s sakau plantation on the slope. Any semblance of a trail vanishes at the foot of the hill, where you have to clamber up the steep, muddy hillside. At the top, there’s an extensive network of Japanese defensive trenches. The Japanese ridge path goes east as far as Mesihsou and west to Kupwuriso, but the problem with hiking the entire distance in one go is that the mountain range is broken up into a number of private parcels owned by different (and sometimes competing) families. The trail is easy to follow as it goes west toward the Timwen Men summit (331 m / 1,086 ft). Along the way, you’ll pass several impressive tunnels that bore into the hill and connect with the trench system. Two circular pits seem to have been either small caliber gun stations (possibly 80 mm) or rifle positions. No guns are found there now. The summit is a little overgrown, but still affords nice views of the valley.

The hike takes about 3 hours round-trip.

To arrange for a guide, ask for the colorful Eiber Rosario at the houses near the end of the road. You may also be able to locate Eiber by calling his son-in-law, Colton, at +691.923.6941. Offer $20.

Dolakapw (Edienleng)

This hike starts at the main road opposite a small store, passes through a group of houses, and follows a well-traveled footpath, climbing steadily but never steeply to Dolakapw (“new hill”), a peak in Edienleng. The trail ends at a plantation of sakau and other agroforestry crops. From there the route curves around the south side of the hill (with views of the Sapwalap plain), where two large Japanese tunnels burrow into the slope. The lower one is partially collapsed, the steel rails for a mining car still jutting out of the hole. The roof here is unstable, so it would be unwise to venture inside. The tunnel is about 15 meters long. The second tunnel, a little higher up the hill, is in better shape with U-shaped steel supports holding up the rocky roof. Bats and Caroline Islands swiftlets nest at the rear. The landowner believes that the Japanese intended to connect the two tunnels, but abandoned the project once the Allied bombing campaign began. The semi-open Dolakapw summit (305 m / 1,001 ft) is just above.

The hike takes about 3 hours round-trip.

To find a guide, visit the small store on the coastal side of the road and ask for Isaac Fred. Offer $20.

Pohn Tehnmei

This short, strenuous hike begins at the home of brothers Atsent and Romeo Welcher at the end of an intermittently paved road west of Nan Pailong. There isn’t much of a trail; the route just goes straight up the slope behind the house along an eroded track used to drag huge sakau pounding stones, called peitehl, down from the mountaintop. The first thing encountered at the top is the quarry site itself — a collection of pits from which the stones have been dug. There was a time when people came from all over the island to get peitehl at this spot. Currently, the state forbids the practice, but you may get the distinct impression that it’s still going on nonetheless. Not far from the top of the hill, a gigantic peitehl marks the spot where the brothers Olsihpa and Olsohpa looked down and first laid eyes on Sounahleng, the place where they would eventually begin the building of Nan Madol (there’s no view from here now, unfortunately). Also, a trio of large stones slightly to the west are said to have been formed from the bodies of a man, his wife, and their child. From there you can continue west along the ridge to the Pohn Tehnmei summit (347 m / 1,138 ft). The tree cover on the ridge, however, obscures any good views of the lowlands.

Plan for about 2 to 3 hours round-trip for this adventure.

Japanese Tunnel

At the base of the hill on the Welcher farmstead is a 14 meter-long curving Japanese tunnel. Mining car rails lie along the floor, and though the mouth of the cave is partially collapsed, the rest is supported by U-shaped steel supports. You can enter carefully and walk to the end (bring a headlamp or flashlight and expect some bats).

Either Atsent or Romeo Welcher (+691.925.8075) can be hired as guides, though Romeo’s English is better. If you can’t get them by phone, just go to the house and ask one of them to take you up. Offer $20.

Map Guides >> U & Northern Madolenihmw >> North Madolenihmw Hikes

By pni-surfclubPosted on April 3, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in caves, hiking & trekking, historical sites, u & northern madolenihmw, world war sitesTagged caves, dolakapw, fsm, hiking, historical sites, islands, japanese historical sites, madolenihmw, micronesia, oceania, pacific, pohn tehnmei, pohnpei, ponape, timwen men, trails, trenches, tunnels, world war sites

Kupwuriso

Kupwuriso, Pohnpei’s fifth highest mountain (depending on how you count them), is impossible to miss when driving through eastern U, where it towers over everything, its precipitous slopes clad in groves of endemic palms called kotop (Clinostigma ponapensis). When the Pohnpeian hero Isokelekel sailed around the island in the mid-1600s on a mission to overthrow the Saudeleur dynasty, he initially balked at the sight of the mountain palms which he mistook for an army of giant warriors dressed in grass skirts. It was not until he returned to And Atoll, that a local woman pointed out his mistake. Giants or no, the mountain has an ominous look and feel. It’s unusually close to the coast and rises up very steeply, making it appear much taller than it really is (630 m / 2,067 ft). The name means “stomach.”

Awak Valley Approach

There are two major routes to the small, rocky summit (630 m). The first begins not far from the end of the primary paved road at the rear of the Awak Valley. To protect Mwahnd and Alohkapw (Areu) Passages from invasion, the Japanese decided to place two 15 cm naval canons just below the summit of Kupwuriso at a place called Dol Reirei (“long hill”). To get the massive weapons up the mountain, they constructed a road that climbs up on the south side of the Awak Valley and follows the ridge north. The hike uses this track for most of the way, starting on a rocky private footpath to the right of the road. The steepest section comes at the beginning. Once on the ridge, things mostly flatten out, though there are some gentle ups and downs. The terrain is fairly tame the rest of the way, passing through upland groves of kotop palm, wild banana plants (utin wel), and gnarled stands of campnosperma (dohng) and elaeocarpus (sadak) — trees used to make canoe hulls.

One of the benefits of climbing Kupwuriso is that you’re more likely to get a clear view from the summit than from Nahnalaud. The perspective is better, too; Nahnalaud’s summit sits on a wide plateau, while Kupwuriso’s looks down to the valley from the top of a cliff. Sometimes, however, the mountain is fog-bound — especially from about noon to 2 PM. Plan for 4-6 hours round-trip.

Rohi Approach

The second route starts in Rohi district at the end of a paved road. This way is shorter but considerably more strenuous, shooting 1.3 km (0.82 mi) straight up the side of the mountain. It should be noted that a number of hikers have sustained injuries on this approach, so hire a good guide, go slow, and watch for loose rocks! The route begins in the inhabited lowland agroforest, which Pohnpeians call nansapw, and quickly ascends to the mid-level forests (nanwel), populated by giant hardwoods and tree-ferns. Beyond, the forest opens up and kotop palms abound. Once the slope starts to even out, you’ve entered the cloud forest — a fantasy world of stunted, twisting trees and air plants. It’s always wet here, and every surface is covered with a thick layer of bryophytic growth. Plan for 4-6 hours round-trip.

Japanese Gun Battery

The two guns are the British Armstrong Whitworth naval type identical to the one on Sokehs Mountain. Both are housed in steel and concrete bunkers and separated by a pillbox, where machine guns were placed. The battery was installed in 1943 and took fifty-five local men eight months to complete. At 580 meters (1,903 ft), these are the highest guns on Pohnpei Island. The gnarled forest that has grown up in front of the gun sites is mesmerizing, especially in foggy conditions.

Bird-Watching

Birders will find much to look at on the way up the mountain. Besides the typical honey-eaters, starlings, and lorikeets, this is a good place to look for the Crimson-Crowned Fruit Dove, Imperial Pigeon, and Pohnpei Cicadabird. Swiftlets are common at the summit.

Please visit the Birding page for additional information.

Ridge Camping

There’s a fantastic place to camp at 593 meters not far from the gun sites with a beautiful, unobstructed view of the valley. Bring your own water, dry tender, a tarp or heavy-duty rainfly, and stakes for your tent and tarp (high winds are a distinct possibility at such elevations). Remember to leave your site exactly as you found it. Pack out everything you packed in and properly bury all human waste.

Hiring a Local Guide

A lot of people know the way up Kupwuriso, so finding a guide is not difficult. If you want to tackle the Rohi approach, Miller Benjamin (from Saladak) is a good choice. From Awak, we recommend Relio Lengsi. Conservation Society of Pohnpei (CSP) can also assist you in finding a guide. Offer $40-50 for a group of five hikers or less (plus tips). Agree on a price beforehand.

Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for guide contact information.

Map Guides >> U & Northern Madolenihmw >> Kupwuriso

By pni-surfclubPosted on April 1, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in birding, camping, hiking & trekking, u & northern madolenihmwTagged awak, birding, camping, fsm, guns, hiking, historical sites, islands, kupwuriso, micronesia, mountain, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, rohi, trails, world war sites

Dolen Nett / Pohnlehr

Dolen Nett (“hill of Nett”) is a steep-sided mountain running the length of the Nett Point peninsula. Leaf-shaped, this peninsula juts north into the lagoon east of Kolonia and is said, in myth, to have been formed by the corpse of the same monster eel that founded the Lasialap clan, created Lipwentiak, and lived in the Lehdau River for many years. When the creature finally died, her carcass became Dolen Nett.

Like Sokehs Mountain, Dolen Nett is mostly flat on top, as if the peak was sliced off. From town, this plateau — known as Pohn Dolen Nett (“on the hill of Nett“) — looks like a manicured lawn, which has inspired the mistaken belief that it was once used as an airfield by the Japanese. In truth, there were only three Japanese airstrips on Pohnpei: one at Nanpohnmal, one in Palikir that never became fully operational, and the seaplane base on Lenger Island. There are hardwood forests around the edges of the plateau, but the central landscape of Pohn Dolen Nett is nearly treeless. Most of this open terrain consists of very resistant, and in many places, shoulder-high paddle grass and Dicranopteris ferns with swampy mires and sections of jagged basalt scattered throughout. It should be noted that the aforementioned ferns can be brutal on bare legs if you’re forcing your way through them for any length of time. That’s cat o’ nine tails brutal. Flay the flesh right off your shinbones brutal. We learned the hard way once, while mapping the location. One humble suggestion: hike in pants. Heat-stroke, too, can be an issue on the hill; with so little tree-cover, sunny days are blistering.

Japanese World War II Sites

As is true of all the high points around Pohnpei’s coasts, the Japanese fortified Dolen Nett in the late 1930s, anticipating an eventual attack by Allied forces (which came in the form of intense bombing raids rather than the expected surface-based assault). The most interesting war features are grouped together at the southern end near the true summit (an area called Pohnlehr) and include some steel drums, the barrel of a disassembled 75 mm canon lying in the woods, rock walls, two stone machine gun pillboxes, and a concrete and steel bunker that houses a second 75 mm gun in situ. To access the latter, which has excellent views of the bay between Nett and Awak, you have to move along a precipice, often partially or completely obscured by high grass. Let your guide go first to clear a path — unless you want to find yourself plummeting through empty space. The bunker itself can be entered, but it’s a bit of a grubby venture as the roof has partially collapsed and is now supported by the breech of the gun itself.

The other major site on the south side is a mobile radar array that sits on a low stone platform in the woods about 126 meters (138 yd) northwest of the gun bunker. The radar was mounted on a rotating turret in the center of a truck chassis (still intact) and the operator turned a wheel to position it. There are some large depressions in the surrounding forests that may be bomb craters, but none of the major features on the hill appear to have sustained direct damage from the bombing runs. More likely, these posts were simply abandoned, as they would not have been very effective against an aerial attack.

The woods pick up again on the north end of the mountain, and here, also, are some Japanese military features, including a large network of narrow defensive trenches, a few stone rifle pits, and machine gun emplacements.

Featured Routes

There are many ways to get to the top of Dolen Nett. We have covered four routes on the Greater Nett & Western U Eco-Adventure Map.

(1) The most practical route starts behind a house next to the road in Weipowe 1.2 km (0.75 mi) south of the Nett Point turn-off. Just ask at the houses on the inland side of the road for guides. The trail is well-maintained as far as the family’s private sakau (kava) and yam plantations on the slope. The steepest bit of the climb is at the beginning — 0.4 km / 0.26 mi, 33% slope avg. Near the top of the ridge, the trail passes the entrance to a long Japanese tunnel, well worth exploring — but bring a headlamp. From there, it continues up the forested slope and eventually comes to the open fern meadows, called nanmal (0.4 km / 0.3 mi, 22% slope avg).

(2) Another trail begins 0.6 km (0.37 mi) south of Trailhead 1 (look for a narrow concrete driveway next to a giant mango tree). This may have been the primary Japanese trail, but it is now difficult to follow above the point where farmers plant their sakau. About 0.56 km (0.35 mi) along (26% slope avg), the trail collides with an impassable basalt wall over which a thin waterfall can form after heavy rain. Here the trail turns south and continues about 0.29 km (0.18 mi) with a 17% slope avg, running parallel to the wall until it ends. Then it begins to climb again, briefly emerges in a small meadow, passes through some light forest, and emerges again at a rare grove of coconut palms (185 m / 202 yd).

(3) A third route begins at the edge of the road in Paliais 0.7 km (0.43 mi) north of the Dausokele Bridge. The route is about 0.7 km (0.43 mi) to the top with a 26% slope avg.

(4) The fourth route starts on the edge of the road 1 km (0.62 mi) south of the Nett Point turn-off. It climbs fairly straight 0.27 km (0.17 mi) with an 18% slope avg up to the ridge, which is much lower here. It then turns south and follows the ridge 0.43 km (0.27 mi) until it connects with Route 1 at the Japanese tunnel entrance.

Pohnpei Short-Eared Owl

The lonely meadows and forests on the mountaintop are prime habitat for Pohnpei’s shy short-eared owl, Asio flammeus. This species has been pushed up to the mountainsides by building projects — such as the State Hospital — which destroyed its native grasslands habitat. Late afternoon is a good time to look for the large bird rising from its hidden abode as it sweeps out to hunt (we spotted it on three out of five trips).

Camping

There are many fine places to camp on Dolen Nett. The nanmal is excellent on clear nights, where you can gaze both on the star field above and the twinkling lights of Kolonia below. If you want more cover or perhaps some trees to tie a tarp or hammock to, try the forests at the southern end. Bring plenty of water — none is found on the mountaintop — and take everything you brought with you when you leave. A good campsite is one that leaves no trace.

Plan for 6-8 hours for this hike, if you want to see all the WWII features.
Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Dolen Nett. Offer $37-50.00 for a group of five or less.

The Story of the Eel of Pahdol

A long time ago, a couple from Wene came to live in a place called Iro. One day there was a great storm and the heavy rains resulted in a huge flood. Two women in the area went out to fish in the flood, and while they were fishing, a starling flew over and dropped a small stone. The women took the stone home and gave it to the couple from Wene. Later, at a place called Pahnkipar (“under the pandanus tree”), the stone broke apart and from it was hatched a tiny freshwater eel. The couple kept the eel as their pet and allowed it to live in a pool at Pahdol (“under the hill”) in Pahnais. When the eel grew up, however, it began to act in sinister ways. At night, the eel would escape from its pool and sneak into the house, where it would stare at the sleeping couple. The couple became uncomfortable and decided to kill and eat the eel, but the eel overheard their plan, came into the house, and attacked them. The couple fled into the forest and hid under a huge rock, where they believed they’d be safe. The eel discovered the hiding place and ambushed the couple, devouring them alive.

The eel then traveled into the Nanmeir Valley in Pohnpei’s interior and followed the Lehnmesi River source. There she met Kiroun Meir, a high-titled man, who brought her to live with him at his home. The two became lovers and the eel was impregnated. She was restless, however, and departed, continuing to follow the river. At Lipwentiak, the eel encountered a hunter named Kiroun Mand, killing and eating eels. Recoiling at this sight, she created a sharp turn in the river with the writhing of her body. Soon after, she gave birth to her first daughter, the matriarch of the Sounlipwentiak subclan. She had other children later who became the founders of the Lasiadohng (“eels of the dohng tree”) and Lasiakotop (“eels of the kotop palm”) subclans. After that, the eel went to live in Dauen Sapwalap, where she terrorized the local inhabitants, devouring so many that the land became mostly deserted. When the monster finally died, her body formed Dolen Nett.

Map Guides >> Nett & Western U >> Dolen Nett

By pni-surfclubPosted on March 1, 2013September 2, 2019Posted in birding, camping, greater nett, hiking & trekking, historical sites, world war sitesTagged birding, dolen nett, fsm, guns, hiking, historical sites, islands, micronesia, mountains, oceania, pacific, pohn dolen nett, pohnlehr, pohnpei, ponape, trails, world war sites

Lenger WWII Historical Sites

Southwest Side

Subterranean Crude Oil Facility (Pahnlenger)

Built beneath Dolen Lenger, the Japanese crude oil storage complex is without question the most impressive of the island’s historical sites. If tight spaces, heights, cobwebs, bats, or the dark make you nervous, this is where you should grab your flashlight and confront your phobias! You don’t want to miss this experience, but do take care where you put your feet and watch out for swiftlets darting about.

The facility is accessed through the first of a trio of steel gates that opens onto a wide rock tunnel lying parallel to the hillside (Gates 2 & 3 are blocked by mud and rock-fall). Steel ladders in alcoves opposite each of the gates run up the wall to concrete lofts from which Japanese personnel could inspect the massive oil tanks. Each tank is 40 meters long and 10 meters wide (131 x 33 ft) with an arched, riveted ceiling and an estimated capacity of 3,300 metric tons. From each loft a second ladder descends 10 meters (33 ft) through a hatch to the floor of the tank. Depending on recent rains, there may between 10 cm and a meter of standing water on the floor, but it’s usually possible to explore without getting too wet. Japanese graffiti on the wall of the first loft reads: “Push forward bravely and strive.” Records seem to indicate that only the third tank was operational. A large diesel engine in front of Tank 3 was probably used to pump the oil in and out. A pipe runs all the way to the coast.

Storage Caves (Pahnaiau)

The four caves carved into the slope of Dolen Lenger were probably intended for use as storage facilities (and also for defense as a last resort), but may not have been completed. Cave 1 is tiny (about 6 meters deep). The other three are grouped together 50 meters (164 ft) to the northwest. Cave 2 is 15 meters deep, 8.5 meters across (49 x 28 ft), and nearly as high with a wide entrance sloping steeply to a soggy floor. If you venture down, be careful of broken glass from bottles that might have been meant for Molotov cocktails (gasoline bombs). Cave 3 is slightly larger and deeper with several terraces. A line of rock-filled barrels at the mouth seems to have been added as protection against a land attack, and the third terrace may have been intended for a machine gun. Cave 4 is the largest with a depth of 28 meters. All of the caves are muddy, often have standing water on their floors, and are occupied by colonies of Caroline Islands swiftlets. The name of the area, Pahnaiau, means “under the banyan tree.”

Concrete Plant Equipment (Pahnaiau)

West of the main path to the caves is a ballast mound with a mango tree on top and a cluster of equipment used in the process of making cement: three concrete mixers, a large Yanmar diesel engine, and the 610 mm gauge rail lines that were used to transport dynamited rock from the cave sites along the hillside. A rock-crusher lies 23 meters (75 feet) southwest of the mixers.

South Side

Oil Tank Complex (Pahnkamal)

This large walled complex originally contained two steel tanks for the storage of crude oil, which was pumped in from the coast. The larger tank, with a 1000-liter capacity, was dismantled in the 1970s by a man who needed steel plates for his ship. He was in the process of taking apart the smaller one, when the government intervened. The existing tank can be entered where the lower panels have been removed. The roof is accessible via a ladder on the inside, leading to a manhole. A courtyard wall surrounds the entire facility (now being used by local residents as a pigpen) and concrete channels lead to a pair of rectangular cisterns (currently piled with coconut husks). Large bomb craters from the American bombardment are found on the northwest and south sides.

Aviation Fuel Reservoir Tunnel (Pahnkamal)

Northwest of the main path is a subterranean tank that supplied the seaplanes with aviation fuel. A steel door in the hillside opens on a tunnel about 8 meters long (typically flooded with about 20 cm of standing water and silty mud). At the end of the tunnel, the fuel pipes turn to the right and disappear into a concrete wall, behind which the reservoir lies. A ladder runs up to a secondary entrance hatch on the slope, but it is now rusted shut. The Japanese took fuel from this location by truck to the seaplane facility.

East Side

Cisterns & Machines(Nanpeilam)

Footpaths leading toward residences on the eastern coast pass a variety of rusting machine parts and two rectangular concrete cisterns. The southernmost cistern can be entered through a hole knocked in the south wall. A ladder also runs up to the roof.

“The Banyan Wheel” (Dausong)

The most photogenic of the island’s attractions is not far from the main path on a terrace cut into the eastern slope of Dolen Lenger. There are several concrete foundations here and on one of them is an unidentified machine (perhaps an engine or rock-crusher) that has been completely absorbed by a huge banyan tree, such that the large machine wheel is permanently fixed on the outside of the tree with two roots growing right through the spokes. Take our word for it: it’s pretty darn cool.

Northeast Side

Seaplane Hangar & Aircraft Wreckage (Dietakai)

The hangar on the northeast side of the island once housed the “flying boats” that flew between Chuuk, Pohnpei, and the Marshall Islands and the Naval Type-O Observation seaplanes that were used for recon. The structure sustained at least two direct hits from bombs, leaving massive craters at the front and on the southeast wall and possibly contributing to the eventual collapse of most of the braced girder roof in the 1980s (only the rear portion still stands). Near the northeast corner is a half-buried air compressor and just beyond this the engine cylinder of a destroyed aircraft, but the tangled girders make it difficult to move further inside from this direction. A careful search near the east side of the foundation should yield the wreckage of at least one plane (an Aichi E13A1 Jake), including the engine and propeller, portions of a wing, a pontoon, strut, and bits of bulkhead next to one of the carriers used to move the planes. The hangar can be much more easily entered at the rear, where the roof girders are still intact. A pair of carriers — on their way to being devoured by a ficus — were used to transport the seaplanes.

Download a FREE BONUS MAP of the seaplane hangar here

Seaplane Ramp & Apron (Dietakai)

The large seaplane ramp and apron dates to 1939 or shortly after and was constructed by a labor force consisting of Japanese, Korean, Pingelapese, Mwoakillese, and Pohnpeian workers. The structure lies on a reclaimed portion of the island and stretches northeast into the sea. The underwater section was made from concrete slabs poured elsewhere and lowered from barges, where they were assembled by divers. Stone seawalls around the perimeter were constructed in the highly stable yabane-tanizumi configuration. Written accounts left by local workers describe slave-labor conditions and harsh punishments for anyone who did not cooperate (one account says men were strung up to bake in the sun). A Pohnpeian marching dance (“Ke Dehr Lemeleme Me Se Ruksang Doadoahk en Kaigun”) composed during the event, commemorates the regular desertions of laborers.

Today, the cratered apron has been claimed by the forest and is difficult to even identify from the ground, but at the time of writing there was a clear path across it. The ramp was repaired by the Americans and used as the primary airstrip until the current airport on Dekehtik was completed. It remains mostly intact, though several structures in the area post-date the Japanese period (including an old hut for picnickers and the concrete tanks from a giant clam hatchery that operated in the 1990s).

Dolen Lenger

Dug-Outs & Tunnels (Dolen Lenger)

The ascent of Dolen Lenger follows the northernmost of two Japanese roads that lead up the hill and eventually intersect. The lower part of the southern road is mostly blocked by trees and mud and is no longer a good way to access the hill, but you can explore the upper section, where several dug-outs cut into the slope on either side. Two of the entrances are connected by a short tunnel.

Gatepost & Barracks Foundations (Dolen Lenger)

A bit further up the northern path, hikers pass a gatepost (its twin has fallen down the hill), adorned with round, colorful river stones imported from Japan. Naval personnel gathered at this spot for their morning meeting. Not far ahead, the foundations of a barracks complex are found on a large terrace in the hillside. The area is littered with Japanese beer bottles, old diesel engines, steel water tanks, and rusting machine parts. A short tunnel worms into the slope to the left of where the path climbs a flight of concrete steps and continues up the hill.

Searchlight (Dolen Lenger)

The drum and turn-table of a 110 cm searchlight (probably a Navy Model 92) lie just off the right edge of the path. The light was originally mounted on the rock outcropping five meters (16 ft) west of the its current position and was used to identify targets at night. It was probably dismantled by American personnel after the war.

Small Gun Station (Dolen Lenger)

Further along, a deviation from the main path leads to an unknown battery, probably for a machine gun or small artillery, which was removed after the war. A short stone wall protects the site and contains two ammunition magazines.

Anti-Aircraft Gun Stations (Dolen Lenger)

Two anti-aircraft batteries crown the hill, one to the west and the other at the end of the main path. Both sites consist of concrete rings surrounded by stone and earth revetments and a number of ammunition magazines (nine at the first station and six at the second). Naval 8 cm Type 3 Dual-Purpose Guns were installed at these locations to protect the seaplane base and other important Lenger facilities. Unfortunately, both guns were removed after the war.

Dolen Lenger Summit Area

From the last anti-aircraft gun station, it’s possible to continue another 50 meters (164 ft) or so to the 77 meter summit of the hill (marked with a brass USGS benchmark) and pick your way to the cliff-top for expansive views of Kolonia and the northern lagoon. Bring a machete and take care at the edge of the precipice.

Coastal Battery & 15 cm Naval Gun (Dolen Lenger)

Just north of the searchlight, a branch in the path turns west and descends a series of muddy steps to the coastal batteries and their four naval gun stations. Records disagree as to whether guns were actually installed at all four of the stations or if one station at each battery was a decoy. The only gun remaining on Lenger — a 15 cm 40 caliber British Armstrong-Whitworth naval canon — lies on its side in the mud at the southernmost station not far from the pedestal mount. It was probably thrown there by the detonation of one of the many bombs dropped by Allied aircraft in 1944. The barrel and shield are separated from the jacket and recuperator and partly buried. Japanese records state that the 15 cm gun on Sokehs Mountain was originally installed at Lenger and moved during the war. Lenger’s guns were intended to prevent surface invasions from Pweitik Passage to the northwest and had a range of roughly 7 kilometers (4.3 mi).

Heavy Ordnance Magazine Foundation (Dolen Lenger)

Past the gun stations is the foundation of what was probably a magazine for heavy ordnance surrounded by impressive inclined blast walls of quarried basalt rock. As is true of the best examples of Japanese architecture on Pohnpei, the stones were laid in the alternating diagonal pattern called “herringbone style” (or yabane-tanizumi). The site was most definitely covered during the operational period and camouflaged to make it invisible from the air.

West Side

Coastal Barracks Foundations

The remains of two large barracks are found on the western coast of the island. Both of the structures were wooden pitched-roof buildings raised above the ground on concrete posts and reached by short flights of stairs. Each barracks housed as many as fifty men. Only the posts and stairs remain today. The southern foundation has a nahs built on top of it, which was part of one the island’s two “resorts” in the 1990s.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The Lenger Island guide would not exist without the amazing work and cooperation of archaeologist Takuya Nagaoka, who was the first person to map the historical sites on Lenger. Nagaoka’s meticulous survey maps and exhaustive report (as yet, unpublished) were indispensable in the process of finding and interpreting neglected sites that had become heavily overgrown.

Eco-Adventure Map Guides >> Lenger Island >> Lenger Historical Sites

By pni-surfclubPosted on February 1, 2013September 1, 2019Posted in caves, hiking & trekking, historical sites, islands, lenger & sapwtik islands, snorkeling, swimming & picnicking, world war sitesTagged 15 cm gun, banyan wheel, caves, fsm, guns, historical sites, islands, japanese historical sites, lenger island, micronesia, oceania, pacific, pohnpei, ponape, seaplane hangar, seaplane ramp, seaplane wreckage, searchlights, tunnels, world war sites

Sokehs Mountain

Sokehs Mountain or Pohndollap, which means “on the big hill,” is a long, mostly flat-topped ridge running north-south along the length of Sokehs Island with a knoll-like summit near the middle. The mountain was a refuge for the insurgents of the Sokehs Rebellion and later a key location in the Japanese defense of Pohnpei during World War II. The mountain’s attractions are mostly war-related, though it is also a highly-regarded birding spot.

The hike begins at the end of the paving above the Sokehs Municipal Office and climbs steadily along the rocky Japanese Road (or you can drive to the halfway point). At the top of the mountain, the road turns north next to a terrace on which the Japanese barracks structures originally stood — now the site of a concrete nahs built by the Office of Tourism in the late-2000s. From this point, it’s roughly 0.23 km (0.14 mi) south to the Coastal Battery and 0.78 km (0.48 mi) north to the summit of Dollap (276 m / 906 ft).

Japanese-Era Historical Sites

Command Post & Anti-Aircraft Battery

This site is centered around the Japanese Command Post, from which military operations on the Ridge were directed. There are many structures in the area:

Defensive Trench — This narrow, rock-lined trench has been partially swallowed by a bamboo grove that must have established itself after the war. The trench makes two 90 degree turns around something that is now buried beneath the roots of a massive tree. It’s unclear what the structure was, but electrical cables can still seen coming out of it through the trench wall.

Stone Look-Out — This elevated observation point is found just above the west wall of the Command Post, reached by several concrete steps. From the circular roof-less enclosure at the top, you can look out over Gun #1 and the Command Post foundations.

Personnel Tunnel / Shelter — This L-shaped personnel tunnel is found opposite Gun #1 under what looks like a man-made hill. The tunnel runs southeast and then makes a 90-degree turn before terminating. It’s about 7 meters long in total. The structure was probably intended as a bomb shelter.

Anti-Aircraft Guns — The two guns in the battery are identical: Type 89 12.7 cm twin double-purpose guns, which could pivot 360 degrees on their mounts and also tilt to fire at enemy aircraft overhead. Both guns are surrounded by sloped concrete revetments about 2 meters high with recessed ammunition magazines around the ring (some of which still have large machine springs in them). It took roughly one year for sixteen Pohnpeian laborers to move the guns to the Ridge and install them in their current positions. Gun #1 faces northeast, while Gun #2 points north and is missing its shield. An uncovered shaft lies just to the rear of each of the guns and drops 2 meters into the ground, connecting to a tunnel that housed the gun’s power cables. These shafts are potential hazards, especially when the grass is high. Take special care when walking around the sites to avoid falling into either of the holes!

Command Post Foundations — Only the concrete basement foundations of the Command Post structure exist today. It seems to have been divided into two rooms. There’s a strange tower-like structure at the north side that TTPI archaeologist Duane Denfeld believed was used for target-bearing. The entrance is on the south side. To the left of the entrance under some trees is a flight of concrete stairs that has tipped partially on its side. It probably led up to the Look-Out and was either damaged by a bomb blast or undermined by erosion.

Machine Gun Pillbox — North of Gun #2 is a large pillbox with similar architecture as the coastal battery bunker. A set of stairs leads down to a stone corridor, which turns left into a circular chamber with slit openings on the front. From the outside, the structure is nearly invisible. The pillbox was probably intended for a machine gun, or more than one. As the chamber stays quite dry even during heavy rain, it’s a nice place to camp.

Mysterious Concrete Shaft — Southwest of the pillbox is a circular concrete shaft with a steel rung ladder leading downward. The shaft is currently flooded and its purpose is unclear. We’re still looking for information about this intriguing feature.

Barracks Area

The foundations of barracks, a kitchen, and mess hall are found at the north end of the Coastal Battery trail. The largest concentration of foundations is east of the path, indicating at least three large buildings. Concrete steps are found east of the Coastal Battery trail and south of the main road. A large water tank on a rock platform next to the path probably supplied the kitchen area. An identical tank to the east may have been for a washroom. Foundations extend all the way to the Tourism nahs. A slightly-sloped retaining wall built in the Japanese stone masonry style, called uchikomihagi, (unshaped, fitted stones) frames the terrace on which the foundations lie, running east-west along the main road and then turning south. There’s also an unknown foundation isolated from the others north of the main road with earthen revetments on all sides. It might have been a magazine for heavy ordnance, though the design is different from facilities on Lenger and Sapwtik.

Coastal Battery

The Coastal Battery is found at the end of a well-defined trail 0.23 km (0.14 mi) southwest of the cinderblock nahs. There are several notable features:

Coastal Gun & Bunker — A 15 cm naval gun is found in a large rock and steel bunker on the western slope of the mountain. The gun was manufactured by the British company Armstrong-Whitworth in 1905 and remains in good condition. It was intended to protect against surface incursions from Palikir Pass, a primary barrier reef passage to the west, but it may not have seen much action. The gun had a range of about 7 kilometers (4.3 mi). The bunker is roughly 8 meters by 6 meters with steel I-beams supporting the concrete ceiling and the dirt that is mounded over it. It would have been difficult to identify the feature from the air. There are two ammunition magazines behind the gun with heavy steel doors. A short corridor connects the rear of the bunker with a prominent trench which runs south for roughly 60 meters (196 ft), ending at a large bomb crater.

Rifle Pit — Twenty-five meters (82 ft) east of the gun bunker is a P-shaped rifle pit with rock walls. It may have originally been connected to the trench system mentioned above.

South Point

From the top of the Coastal Battery bunker, a trail runs 0.37 km (0.23 mi) south to the end of the Ridge. Along the way it passes scattered foundations, small water tanks, and several stone rifle pits. Little is known about the structures in this area. Bomb craters are obvious in many places. The path terminates at the mountain’s southernmost point–a narrow fin with steep slopes on both sides.

Rifle Pits on Western Slope

West of the Summit Road, 0.28 km (0.17 mi) north of the Command Post, is a complex of small stone rifle pits. Four rifle pits were investigated (two on either side of the path), with the pair to the south being the most extensive. Undoubtedly, there are many structures of this variety around the mountain’s slopes that have yet to be discovered. The area is lower than its surroundings and tends to be very muddy.

Power Station

Immediately east of the Summit Road, just before it begins to climb to the peak, are the remains of a Japanese power station. The most prominent features are a Yanmar 60 KVA generator and three concrete tanks–two for water that cooled the engines and one for fuel. Though the power station building is no more, the steel roof trusses still lie across the ground.

Summit Area

FSM Telecom has claimed the summit of Dollap, and the steel Japanese searchlight platform (about 5 meters in diameter) now supports one of two cellular phone towers. The views from the top of one of the accessible Telecom structures are spectacular and unobstructed. Just below the knoll is an L-shaped defensive trench with rock walls, probably for the men who manned the light. Above this is a small Japanese monument.

Map Guides >> Sokehs Island >> Sokehs Mountain

By pni-surfclubPosted on January 1, 2013September 1, 2019Posted in birding, camping, hiking & trekking, historical sites, sokehs island, world war sitesTagged 12.7 cm dual purpose guns, 15 cm gun, anti-aircraft battery, birding, bunkers, coastal battery, dollap, fsm, guns, hiking, historical sites, islands, japanese historical sites, micronesia, oceania, pacific, pohndollap, pohnpei, ponape, power station, rifle pits, sokehs, sokehs island, sokehs mountain, south point, trails, tunnels, world war sites